SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm starting a new build for my two DP 21"s in my Expedition, and I'm looking for some ideas. My ideas are in the above poll. Right now I have a subs up, port back setup. Current box is 20 cubes with 300 sq. inches of port at 32Hz. I'm looking at about the same volume and tuning for my wall as well. Possibly tuned a little lower, I loves my lows. The wall will be to the b-pillars. I'm basically looking to get as loud as possible on music, but this is for daily, so it's not going to be a burp monster. All votes, comments, and suggestions are appreciated.

is there any discernible difference between a square port and a circular port. I'm thinking about using a circular port tube from somewhere like Elemental designs. Mainly due in part to my lack of knowledge and how to build a ported enclosure.

I am going to start on this project very soon so I thought I'd start planning right now.. Here is what I wanted to do.. I did not want to sacrifice my whole cargo area so I got my sub box made to take up only half of the whole cargo space so I can have half of the space to store things or whatever.. And then I realized that I have no place to mount my kicker 2500.1 which is a fairly large amp so I decided that I would want to build a false floor with plexiglass on the other half of the cargo space in front of my subwoofer box.. (as of now my amp is sitting on my rear seat folded down (i definitely do not like it at all and I do not want to mount my amp on the sub box as …

I have 2 AQ SDC2.5 with an AQ1200D amp. I have a 5 Cube box for them now but due to the fact that it wasnt planned out very good the box in crap and is all but falling apart now. I came up with another design but im not sure how well this will work. The subs call for 2.5 cubes a piece but with my new design it will be around 2.2 cubes a piece and the subs would be pointing pretty much up. I know that these are not ideal conditions for the subwoofers however how much do you think this would effect the overall sound. This is it any comments plz.

ok...im gettin a cae this summer...((gas mileage purposes)) and dont know really anything about doin subs in cars....ive done trucks forever and know all about them but im dumb when it comes to what cars sound good with what....so i wanna hear some opinions on what setups yall have going in cars tht put up respectable numbers thnks, zak

So like it says how do you figure out the right measurments for 2 or more round or square port? and im asking because im thinking of doing a dual L port design for a 12" BTL. box will be tuned to 34 hz and will be 2.5 cu ft after displacement. so how do you figure out length and port area for each port? also if you know how ot do the circle ports it would be nice to know that as well. because i might end up going the aero port route.

I recently got a great custom box by Audibel Customs for free but I was thinking about building my own fiberglass/mdf enclosure. The only reason I went with Audibel Customs was for the free enclosure if not I would have gotten the Mach5 IXL's. But the Custom box Quentin built is great and hits hard. I just need more space. What I plan on doing is making everthing mdf except for the base/feet of the box. The reason is because my truck has a lot of bumps/curves on the bottom behind the seats and I can gain some airspace in order to do 2 SSA Icon 10's in the future once money comes. I have learned/researched alot of other build logs on fiberglassing and think I have the capa…

I am new here and need some help, so if you could help me, thanks in advance. I have a 96 Mitsubishi Eclipse (with a sun roof) and 2 12" audiobahn aw1200q subs. I have a lanzar 4000 watt amp for the subs and a stinger battery and batcap 800 as well as 0 gauge wiring all around. can you help me with a setup that will "pound" right now I am hitting a 141.xx thanks you!

Never used allthread in a high pressure install so need some small tips in this area. I know that when allthread is ran from one side to another that washers and nuts are used on both sides of a wall. So that means 1 run of allthread will have 4 washers and 4 nuts on it. What kind of washers and nuts am i suppose to use inside of the box to prevent them from coming loose? I looked at nylon lock nuts but i cant use those on the inside because to get the nuts on the inside, you have to roll em on before you slide the allthread through the other wall. So, roll nut one way then back the other way to lock in place... nylon nuts appear to only roll in one direction so i dont k…

so, im currently redesigning yet another enclosure for my home theater mains. was wondering what the effects, pros, cons are on port placement. using a 3 inch round port. a 6.5 and a 1 inch tweeter. so top near tweeter or on bottom below mid or just rear firing? pros cons? im thinking port on bottom with about 2 inches of separation between port and mid.

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

need some help with a box for a 98 explorer for 2 15'' crystal cmpx215 wood like it ported to 26hz r 30hz i have 41''w 18''tall 20''deep wood like to do 4'' pvc pipe let me no if you can help me out i think i have about 7.4cf i wont to do subs up and ports back i think

Ok. I've had 2 12" kicker l7's for a while, but blew one due to shitty setup, and not knowing anything and clipping all the time. Now that I've matured in car audio and have learned to respect the sq and not just bump myself stupid, I decided I wanted to go back and find out what the L7 is actually capable of given the right box. Now is where the trouble starts. I have no idea where to start building a box. I really have no idea how to either. Right now, the two subs are in a prefab dual ported chambered box and that is all I know. One sub is blown too, and I have no idea the tuning. I really want to build a new box. I'm not asking for step by step directions, just some …

Hey guys im looking to buy a custom box for a Fi Q12 and I was recommended 3.2 @32. I was reading on here that they recommend 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 28-33Hz (32 being optimal) Im a little confused, could some clarify what the best box to purchase would be. Cheers!

Im about to start building my box today, and i want to know the right screws and glue to get for it. thanks for the help.

I don't have a disc to install windows on my mac, and I kinda want to use my TermLab. Does anyone know how to do this without using bootcamp or a visualizer?

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

A buddy of mine wants me to design and build him a downfire box for his ext cab ranger. My question is how much is the minimal amount of distance you should leave between the sub baffle and the floor?

need help with box for two crystal cmpx215 subs going in a 1999 ford explorer i have -41''w-18''t-20''d- will be running a orion 2100hcca on ea sub wood like to do ported at 28hz with 4''pvc let me no if you can help me out this is my daily ride----wood like it to bang hard

Ok so I sealed up the rear deck of my car, I have the MDF ready to be cut and set into place. My plan is to cut a 2" hole in the MDF to run my RCAs and power wire through, not sure how i can seal that up, any ideas? then im going to cut the speaker holes and mount the subs on the other side. that will be roughly 1" clearance from the back of my seat. I was going to try and find some rubber gasket at home depot to put around the MDF to seal it up to my seat opening surround. Does all of this sound like it will work out? Also im running a pair of boston acoustic g2 12s on my aq1200d for this setup

aight. i have 3 12" california profiles. i have 3 custom 1/2 mdf wood boxes. there in a ranger single cab. i have 2 behind the seats and one where the center floor console/ cup holders were. i dont have the exact specs but there .40-.50 cu. ft. of airspace for each. the subs need 1.25 cu. ft. of airspace, but there just temporary till i get sum new ones. well my question is..they really dont have any excursion at all. they really bump but dont really move. i figured its cuz of the super small boxes. and probally cuz i didn't put any poly fill in em.or maybe cuz there low rated subs, they have like 50 rms and 350 watts peak but if i get sum 12" kicker cvr's or even some sh…

i got bored and decided to draw this up, its right around 2.5 cubes @ 35 hz. gonna be for two 10's ( AQ SDC2.5's) Its gonna go in my chevy std. cab. Any comments or suggestions?

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

1 shitty prefab enclosure =$70 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 131.1 with term lab on the dash 1 Custom enclosure From Audio innovations =$ 200 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$ 100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 139.3 dB with term lab on the dash 8.2 dB Gain= PRICELESS I still have shitty 4 gauge power wire. Stock electrical. Cap:( and ground is not grounded properly