SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey guys im looking to buy a custom box for a Fi Q12 and I was recommended 3.2 @32. I was reading on here that they recommend 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 28-33Hz (32 being optimal) Im a little confused, could some clarify what the best box to purchase would be. Cheers!

need some help with a box for a 98 explorer for 2 15'' crystal cmpx215 wood like it ported to 26hz r 30hz i have 41''w 18''tall 20''deep wood like to do 4'' pvc pipe let me no if you can help me out i think i have about 7.4cf i wont to do subs up and ports back i think

I recently got a great custom box by Audibel Customs for free but I was thinking about building my own fiberglass/mdf enclosure. The only reason I went with Audibel Customs was for the free enclosure if not I would have gotten the Mach5 IXL's. But the Custom box Quentin built is great and hits hard. I just need more space. What I plan on doing is making everthing mdf except for the base/feet of the box. The reason is because my truck has a lot of bumps/curves on the bottom behind the seats and I can gain some airspace in order to do 2 SSA Icon 10's in the future once money comes. I have learned/researched alot of other build logs on fiberglassing and think I have the capa…

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

Im about to start building my box today, and i want to know the right screws and glue to get for it. thanks for the help.

I don't have a disc to install windows on my mac, and I kinda want to use my TermLab. Does anyone know how to do this without using bootcamp or a visualizer?

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

Ok. I've had 2 12" kicker l7's for a while, but blew one due to shitty setup, and not knowing anything and clipping all the time. Now that I've matured in car audio and have learned to respect the sq and not just bump myself stupid, I decided I wanted to go back and find out what the L7 is actually capable of given the right box. Now is where the trouble starts. I have no idea where to start building a box. I really have no idea how to either. Right now, the two subs are in a prefab dual ported chambered box and that is all I know. One sub is blown too, and I have no idea the tuning. I really want to build a new box. I'm not asking for step by step directions, just some …

A buddy of mine wants me to design and build him a downfire box for his ext cab ranger. My question is how much is the minimal amount of distance you should leave between the sub baffle and the floor?

So like it says how do you figure out the right measurments for 2 or more round or square port? and im asking because im thinking of doing a dual L port design for a 12" BTL. box will be tuned to 34 hz and will be 2.5 cu ft after displacement. so how do you figure out length and port area for each port? also if you know how ot do the circle ports it would be nice to know that as well. because i might end up going the aero port route.

need help with box for two crystal cmpx215 subs going in a 1999 ford explorer i have -41''w-18''t-20''d- will be running a orion 2100hcca on ea sub wood like to do ported at 28hz with 4''pvc let me no if you can help me out this is my daily ride----wood like it to bang hard

so, im currently redesigning yet another enclosure for my home theater mains. was wondering what the effects, pros, cons are on port placement. using a 3 inch round port. a 6.5 and a 1 inch tweeter. so top near tweeter or on bottom below mid or just rear firing? pros cons? im thinking port on bottom with about 2 inches of separation between port and mid.

aight. i have 3 12" california profiles. i have 3 custom 1/2 mdf wood boxes. there in a ranger single cab. i have 2 behind the seats and one where the center floor console/ cup holders were. i dont have the exact specs but there .40-.50 cu. ft. of airspace for each. the subs need 1.25 cu. ft. of airspace, but there just temporary till i get sum new ones. well my question is..they really dont have any excursion at all. they really bump but dont really move. i figured its cuz of the super small boxes. and probally cuz i didn't put any poly fill in em.or maybe cuz there low rated subs, they have like 50 rms and 350 watts peak but if i get sum 12" kicker cvr's or even some sh…

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

Ok so I sealed up the rear deck of my car, I have the MDF ready to be cut and set into place. My plan is to cut a 2" hole in the MDF to run my RCAs and power wire through, not sure how i can seal that up, any ideas? then im going to cut the speaker holes and mount the subs on the other side. that will be roughly 1" clearance from the back of my seat. I was going to try and find some rubber gasket at home depot to put around the MDF to seal it up to my seat opening surround. Does all of this sound like it will work out? Also im running a pair of boston acoustic g2 12s on my aq1200d for this setup

1 shitty prefab enclosure =$70 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 131.1 with term lab on the dash 1 Custom enclosure From Audio innovations =$ 200 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$ 100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 139.3 dB with term lab on the dash 8.2 dB Gain= PRICELESS I still have shitty 4 gauge power wire. Stock electrical. Cap:( and ground is not grounded properly

I have a visonik 12" woofer, that came from this set: http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/millionbuy_2051_58365261 I am looking for some dimensions for a box, I intend to build it my self. I am planning low tuned, and ported. it will be in my room for the time being, so i would say slot ported, to ~28-32hz. size isn't an issue. And, it certainly wouldn't hurt to recieve a few tips for a first time builder.

Okay, so...I am going to start my build for two 15" fi bl's in the trunk of my 97 chysler sebring, I can not quite remember what specifications, but it will be about 7 to 8 cubic feet. I am not sure whether it would sound better with the port facing in side the cab or toward the opening of the trunk, the subs will be facing up, and about 30-32 hz. Any input would be appreciated Thank,

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

So, i am going to need to coat the entire inside of my upcoming project in resin.. I have a few questions... 1- Any type of resin and hardener i should use specifically for this or any at Lowes for fiberglassing fine? 2- How many coats or how thick should i make it? 16 cubes GROSS 7kw of power with All-thread bracing. 3- Is it ok if i coat the entire inside with resin, then after it cures, drill out all the holes i need to run my allthread? OR should i already run all-thread and have it braced before coating with resin?

anyone?

Horns and i want to know of were to start... maybe links to some sites and what not.. anything is helpful thanks everyone

I wasn't sure where to post this so it will probably be moved.. But im planning a new box and im debating what frequency to tune to.. The thing is that i have a box in my truck now that is tuned to 40Hz and I want to play sine wave tracks (30hz, 31hz, 32hz.. and so on) to determine where my box peaks at with cabin gain. I believe this will help me make my decision because I don't really know what hz is playing in a song and say my setup starts dropping of around 45hz now.. I may want it to drop off around 35hz.. Also i will use the tracks to compete if i ever build a loud setup. I buddy of mine used to have a cd with tracks like this so I know they're out there.. Could…

The title says it all. What are the risks running in Iso-Baric with these large excursion drivers?

4 IA 187s and two AQ 1200's or 8 Hifonics hifi12d4 and two AQ 1200s, this will be a old car(chevy celebrity type ) and walled. this will be my daily drive