SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Wow another successful event! A special thanks got out to all competitors it would be impossible to have these events. A extra special thanks go out to all the competitors that traveled the extra distance. Team All Your Bass, Team Shattered Dreams, and Adam Metcalf from Trenton, Ontario! Here are the event results: Stock 1-160 1. Shawn Robert.......143.7/143.5 2. Chris Sawyer.......138.8/142.4 3. Jeremy Scott.......136.8/138.1 4. Richie McEwen......136.0 Stock 161-260 1. Matt Clark.........145.0/144.4 2. Jamie Carr.........140.3/142.7/142.0 3. TSD Mike...........141.0/140.6/135.8 4. Jeff Dickinson.....136.3/138.5 5. Brandon Beckley....136.9/136.9 6. Brian VanSoyoc....…

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...=25&rak=390-802

Hey guys..I haven't completely started building anything just yet and this will be my first build and was just wondering about the port type and location of it and the subs. I don't have any exact dimensions or anything just yet just need to get a simple idea first. I have 2 T12's (rockford) in a prefab box now and wanted to make an good box for them. Any idea's on port type, sub and port location would be appreciated. And any first time building tips! I've heard a lot about subs up and port back but not sure if anything else would sound better in a hatchback. Thank for the help in advance, Ted

so ive been looking around for ideas how to get mach5 mli 6.5s and tweets in my doors, but the mounting depth is kicking my a$$. the magnet will hit the window when its rolled down if i put it in the stock location. im wanting to do minimal modification to my doors to keep it as stock as possible*. i saw this and figured it would be perfect for me, if it wont hurt the speaker at all. i cant think of any reason it would, but im just making sure. should i seal behind it with something, or just use some deadening on the door itself? any input would be nice, thanks! hope this works, and if it does work i hope it comes out cleaner than that one

Way late but as promised here are a few pics, sorry it took so long and even if you don't know it all you guys on the forum have helped me in some way or another. The idea was to obviously keep a sub inside the car (like my 8's that were in there before) those of you who know BMW trunks understand why. Keeping it stealth was a main focus hence the flat black paint it really blends it into the car. Any and all comments are welcome, keep in mind I designed it to be way stiff, sound great, and astetics came in last. I estimate that it is around 1.2 net after polyfill. I set it on top of my 1.5 cu ft net box and it was fairly close. Later, b

Just a for instance: Say you have an enclosure 40" wide x 32" long x 30" high, The port is 38.5" wide (facing forward), 6.5" in height, and 24.5" in length - tuned to approximately 34Hz (I'm assuming a driver XMax of 20mm.) The Net enclosure volume is 14.40 cubes, less driver displacement. You have the option of placing (4) 15" subs on the top baffle, or (9) 10" subs. Which do YOU choose, and why? What subs would YOU do? Roughly 1.5 cubes each for the 10's, or 3.37 for the 15's. Either way, it would be possible to run whatever amp at 1 ohm Mono - Strapped SAZ3500's, anyone? I'd be VERY interested to see/hear/speculate what the XCONS would do......

Hi, Can anyone help me with a box for one T3 Audio TSS 15 for a 1997 Acura CL? The CL is the Acura's version of a 2 door Honda Accord. My amp is a Sundown Audio 3000D. I can use up to 4.5 cubic ft. The box needs to be for SPL. Thanks to anyone that can help me some numbers.

Has anybody had any experience with Rear-Firing in Single Cab? I plan on doing this or downfiring. The only problem with downfiring is the max bottom depth I can do is 12.5" so the 12" sub will be on the surface of the wood just barely. I'm worried it might not be enough support because that will leave about 1/2" on both sides of the Sub Hole. (Where ever the sub will be, it will at least have 2 baffles.)

Hey guys, I was messing around with some box plans, and for the recommended box for two rl-i 8's (.6 CF @35 hz) the port has to be over 106 inches long. That is almost a 3 CF port! Anyone know how I can get the length down some? Check my math, but I'm pretty sure this is right.

Hi guys, As the title says, i need a box for my sa-8 but i don't have an enclosure yet. I already saw this thread: But i wanted to get your opinion with this one: can you tell me which one is better? The only difference is the port area. The second one is bigger thus have a higher tuning. I listen to hip hop, rap music most of the time by the way. Any help/insight is appreciated. Thank you!

Hey all.I have a few questions about walls for car audio in cars.I have wanted a wall ever since i got into car audio but ive had a few concerns about them.Here are a couple of questions/concerns I have about them. 1.About how much does a wall weigh on average? ( I was told i could get a wall built in my car that would weigh about 300lbs made of birchwood.Is that possible?) 2.Is it a must to have air shock or whatever in the rear of the car (I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Galant ES 2.4L and it would cost over a grand to put airshocks in.) 3.Do you guys think my car could handle the weight of a wall? i VERY BADLY want a wall in my car and I know I will not stop fiddling with my …

Alright so i posted this on an other forum but no one really had any good insignt into what they think caused the tunning of my box become so high from what I tunned it to. Alright here where Im at this is what the box looks like inside its ruffly a little over 7sq ft each side , port is 17.5 inches tall and 6" wide lenght wise its 19" then it L's with the smaller side 8.5" for a total lenght of about 28". So i was thinking i was going to be tuned to about 34hz well after I got metered turns out im at 57hz any idea where I fucked up?

Hope everyone had a happy and safe holiday. Alright, I want to upgrade my front stage and would like some help with speaker placement, setup, installations and whatever else you guys suggest. Check my signature for the setup I currently have. I have a lot of time before I get everything and install because I'm in Afghanistan right now. So basically I want to improve on my overall sq because my speakers are lacking in the midbass area and want to change my setup and I guess try to go active and really experience a real sq system. I'm not trying to go all out in the sq area but I want to do a 3way setup and just upgrade my setup. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Than…

Hi, I am getting ready to switch my system from my firebird to my truck, so I can sell the car.. It's going in a 99 s10 ext. cab xtreme.. I have 1 12" pioneer premier 3002d4, It's in a sealed box now, but I want to build a ported one for it. I will be using a precision power 1500 amp at 2 ohms, so roughly 1000 watts to it. I know how to do the wood work, but I am not near as good with calculations.lol. A good slot port box design wood help a lot, if anyone has the time. I would like it to be tuned to 34hz, with 1.7 cu without the sub. For room in the back of the truck I have 14 1/2"x18 1/2"x50".. I know thats more than enough, but thats the total space I have. Also, wh…

Supp' SSA!! I am looking to build a higher tuned box for my 2 15" Fi Audio Q's. ( I know they are not made for spl) just for fun... I do 148.1db @ 45hz (30hz tunning) but looking to see what higher tunning will do. For some reason i always peak at 43-45 hz with diferent boxes/tunning and a friend also peaks at 45hz with diferent boxes on 2 12's. Is it the Tahoe's peak or something?. Both are 01/02 Chevy Tahoe's. If i tune a box to 43-45hz will it help because of what i peak at ? Thanks for the input.

okay these dimenions that i have for this sub box say the front and the top are the same okay thats where i get confused with it because i thought the top was the top of the sub box and the front where the ports at is the front not the other way around. 2cubes35hz2925sqin6tn.png i hope that the picture worked because i do not know how to put them on here if it doesn't work just tell me. because this is really confusing me really really bad.....

this is my plan. im building a box that has 4 nightshade 15s. i designed the box on a 3d program to scale. the box is 19.5 cubes. the port is 7inches wide and 38.5 inches tall. that gives me 269.5^2 inches of port area and i need 12-16^2 inches of port area for each cube of airspace. so ill make the port area requirement. the box is tuned to 30hz. i will also be having all the walls 1.5inches thick. everything will be liguid nailed and screwed together.what you guys think? i cant seem to get the pictures to upload. i dont know how to get it from google sketchup to a image hosting site. any help with this?

ok so the car is a 98 Dodge Stratus. I have to have access to my spare tire and would prefer a removeable enclosure but thats probably not happening. What i have now are two boxes 3/4" MDF 3.13cubes each tuned to 36hz. i want something that'll look more custom and less amateur. I've considered finishing my boxes and what not but its really not worth it to me, i'd rather just toss the boxes (not actually throw away) and start with fiberglass. I'm pretty good with fiberglass but never tried it in cars/audio, i think i can manage though. what i really need from you all is ideas on how to make this look good, i'm wanting front firing subs like they do now, and my amps a…

Does any one know how i would calculate port height width length 1 n 2

I have been searching around now for a good 30 minutes on how to figure out the bass in a song. I know you use some program and play the song through it. You then select a little bit of the audio stream and analyze it somehow and it will show how low the bass gets... (I am trying to figure out the bass line in song. When it drops to the second lowest, I have never heard my car rattle so much nor my woofer get so loud. The first bass "hit" is at 34.5 seconds. And the bass hit at 37.5 seconds I need to filter out. I see the speaker move for it but cant hear anything)

I am doing box plans for free (technically). All that I request you do is sign up for my free ipod link and do an offer. I do everything by hand and I will design a rough outline, cut sheet, and assembly instructions for you. Think of it as trading my time for your time. You can do that offer for free by going through the ancestry.com site.

Next weekend I will be starting a new box build and was hoping to get some help from yall on an enclosure design. I could probably do what I did last time, just use RE calc and Google Sketch to design. However, I hear too often that the RE calc is not very accurate and tuning can be very off. I want to build this box to last me a while, so I'd like to do it right the first time. - Subwoofers being used are 2 AudioQue SDC2.5 15" - Power will provided from a SAE-1200Dv2 @ 1ohm - I'm not the best wood worker, but i can get a simple box built. I've done one already. I have a Jigsaw to do the cutting. Not the best, but it works. - I will buy MDF from Lowes. - Build will be for…

I've posted this on some other places and I'm trying to get some feedback..I've ran into a dilemma. I don't know if I should carpet my door panels or if I should just go ahead and paint them. I have quite a bit of black carpet lying around and I think paint wouldn't be as durable since door panels can flex from every day use and it's kind of tedious prepping plastic for paint. Four 6.5's in each door. passenger side:

You can see what Josh (funny guy ) drew up, and then you can see how I tried to tie it all together so all I need to do is lay out the components just like a picture. I used circles and boxes to save time I think the only thing I am unsure of are the woofer -'s and the mid +'s (keep the reversed polarity + (2x) driver in the tower) ... I don't know where I'm supposed to tie them into the neg path - don't know if I have it close to being correct or not, as I just threw them in there. I could always move them right to the main neg lead coming from the binding post if it makes a difference.

Yup, I think it's worthy of a new thread. Tomorrow I have to lug this PC out into the hot muggy humidity again, cuz as if it wasn't enough that the guy made me realize I could/should get so much more out of my tweeters with his Memphis 5.25 coaxials shredding my drums, but he went to bragging that his Anarchys and/or SA pro 8's could prolly do well in the 129dB class. So for the fun of it I went out and dropped the PXA-H701's from 50Hz to 25Hz, still 30dB/oct, left the Kicker at 50Hz 12dB/oct.... cuz I keep thinking about how the REW sweeps showed a cliff dive at 125Hz peaking again at 65Hz for another dive. I can turn them up to the same volume with no clipping, no excur…