SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Does anyone know a site where you type in your demensions and it figures it out for you with a cut sheet?

So i know you can tune a box to a certain hz and specific dimensions for a squared ported/sealed box But, Is it at all possible to calculate and tune a fiberglass piece that you make to mount your subs on the side of the car or anything? ive read many tutorials on how to fiberglass but nothing really mentions anything about proper dimensions and what not for a sub. so am i sacrificing quality and proper sound for looks by fiberglassing?

I am currently taking advantage of the Audibel Customs free enclosure special and getting myself an SSA Icon 12". I am going to be going with a ported enclosure, and Quentin is currently working on my design. the first design he had was with the sub on an angle, firing towards the hatch, and port firing out the top. I had envisioned a upward firing sub and port, and a raised sub floor in the back to make it all flush. Now I realize that the box is just going to be so big regardless that the sub floor idea went out the window. I am only concerned with it hitting hard, going deep, and being able to keep up with my tastes in music. I drive a '05 Scion Xa, 160 amp alt, 0g …

Ok I owed a freind of mine some money so he asked for a box and retarded me i said ya lol so here we go. It will be a bit different decieded for free i might as well do something different try something new. 1 cvr 10 1.8cubes tunned to 36hrz with an external port 28sqin.. design will be up in a bit and box will be bedlined

I am ready to build a sealed box for my single ss rl-p 18, but im not sure which way to face the sub. i have plenty of room on all side. My car is a lincoln towncar if that helps. Also, should i go with the recomended box size of 4 cubes? And one more question, should i only double baffle the front, or should i double baffle everything? Thanks

i just bought a 1990 crx and i have 2 audiopipe txx's they are crap but work for now i just need some help with the box should i have port back subs firing up ? subs firing back and port back? or any ideas? ive gutted the interior in the back i want to fiberglass it all

Im tryin to see if anyone can custom fiberglass me some door panels, entire door panels for both of my doors of my car. I know some companies locally that do it but they charge extremely, i mean EXTREMELY large amounts of money for it. To give you an example, they charge $1,500 to do a 14cuft wall in my car.... i dont know why they told me that a while back but that's not what i wanted from them anyway because i know how expensive they are. I'm lookin to spend no more than $300 per door. Is that too low? I can't find anything for a Scion tC.

Ok,so far a lot of testing and tweaking I cannot get my 187s to sound right or get nearly as loud as two 15s should. So I am doing a swap out, I have narrowed it down to 2-3 subs. The Fi BL d1 12, the DC sound labs level 3 D1 or this is a huge "maybe" I was recommended to try the lanzar opti drive 12..........? just trying to get some feedback and if anyone has personally used/tested any of these subs going to run it off my AQ 1200d

Alright, so i'm building a box for my 15" Q My problem is the max hieght i can get out of my trunk is 16". My question is that my front plate after being cut out for the sub only leaves 3/16" on each side. Being that the front plate is 14.5" tall. Will it be enough to support the sub itself or will this rob its structural integrity? I would like to advoid slanting or angling the front plate to fit it in.

i just went to my first sq event this weekend and the advice i was given by the judge is to try and widen the soundstage a bit along with getting the image a little higher. i sorta noticed this before but not really so brushed it off but after listening again post judging i could definitely see where he's coming from. he said its slightly above the a pillars and slightly wider then the car but needs just a little more. I listened to hotel cali again along with some michael jackson on the way home and noticed this 100%. any advice on how i would do that? Pointing my drivers side tweeter up helped a lil bit on some songs but I'm pretty sure I'm lacking some midrange up high…

i got bored and decided to draw this up, its right around 2.5 cubes @ 35 hz. gonna be for two 10's ( AQ SDC2.5's) Its gonna go in my chevy std. cab. Any comments or suggestions?

When doing a blowthrough setup in a pickup, will it really make a difference as to whether the truck is extended cab or standard?

some one give me a little feed back! ive always thought it was best to give each sub its own chamber then slot port in the middle? lately ive seen alot of boxes where the speakers are pretty much sharing one chamber and L-ported towards the drivers side firing back, is this more effiecient sounding? or is this done so the box can fit better? i have a 2002 accord and i want this setup to be good DAILY. dnt care so much for SQ but more so SPL. meaning SPL to the ear ill doubt i ever see a meter. THANKS FOR ANYTHING GUYS

i had an idea similar to these enclosures for my next project and i was wondering is there any downside to having one built like this?

its a box for two Fi 15 ssd's. the dimensions i have are 42"w X 20"h X 22"D total of 8.8cu.ft and total of around 8.5cu.ft with sub displacement. and a port 8"w X 8"h X 13"d would tune it to 32hz. thats the calculations i came up with,i just want to double check before i go cutting up mdf.

i designs thes box a while ago and cant remember the specs. my patience have wore thin figuring out the specs, so would someone mind lending my a hand? i need to know the volume and the tuning of the box, (btw, if the width of the port is hard to read its 2 1/4'') thanks in advance

Subs: two DC Audio LVL4XL 15's Here is the room I have set aside for the box. I can possibly go bigger. But, if possible, would like to not go bigger. 23 inches high 20 inches deep 38 inches wide I want subs up and the port up. I would like to use a slot port. Tunning could be at whatever would work best with the dimensions given. Anywhere between 30hz to 40hz would be fine with me. I dont know what my cabin peaks at but I have had two setups, one 18 tuned to 32 and two tens, not sure on tunning, Both setups peaked at between 40 to 45 hz. I will be using a US Amps AX3200DE to power them. This will be in a small SUV, 07' Honda CR-V.

Sup guys, first time poster. I have a 2003 dodge dakota regular cab. I have 2 SSD 10" that I have in 2 sealed boxes behind the seat. I am looking to take one out and put 1 ported box for only one sub in. I have the box dimensions that I want just can't figure out where to put the port or how big it needs to be. I have a HiFonics 1600 mono That I am going to be wiring to the sub at 1 Ohm. The box dimension I have came up with will give me 1.25 cubic feet @33Hz. Height = 15 inches Width = 24 inches Depth = 6 inches Please help with port size and location

I was cleaning out my room, and found some literature that came with my DLS components. I didn't notice this bit of info when I was doing the install. But DLS recommends a chamfered baffle for the midbass. I simply made 1/2" birch rings with no chamfer. My question is, will I notice a big difference in midbass response by going the chamfered route? The rings are fairly thin being only 1/2", I don't think the backwaves are really hitting it. But I want to get some second opinions before I take my doors apart to redo the rings. http://www.dls.se/files/701/2/baffle_installation.pdf Pics of my baffles: passenger side driver side

hi all i was just looking at a cabin gain chart and saw that most vehicles had about 25 db of gain at 25 hz but at 30 hz dropped to about 20 dbs of gain so that got me wondering if i would be better off tuning my box to 25 hz than to 30 hz because of this gain. JW. also does anyone have or know where i can find a cabin gain chart on an 01 tacoma single cab because the chart i have doesnt so i used a dakota instead thanks mike

Could I get the same output if I use aero tubes on my box instead of a regular port? I want to get a 9cuft box for the new 15" BLs. Would the aero tubes make the gross area of the box smaller because I want the box as small as possible but still have about 9cuft of area after displacements?

i'm planning on running 2 orion hcca 12's and the box i'm planning on housing them in aimed at 30hz. it's dimensions are 39" wide, 14.5" in height, and 32" in depth. my port measures 13" wide, 8" in height, and 27 3/4" in depth. will these measurements yeild my 30hz goal. i'm not that good with measuring volume and everything so a little assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Wanted to get a few opinions on what you think is better for a spl box, slot port or areo ports?

cant figure it out. two IA 187 15s off a AQ1200d, 6.0^ft3 ported at 37hz. To get any decent bass i had to turn my gain all the way up, and bass boost to about the middle. my remote gain shows clipping at medium volume. Im very confuse at whats going on. I put a battery on the subs and they popped out at the same time so im pretty sure they are in phase. any other ideas?

W'sup guys, i'd like a little assistance on my box build. I'm doing revisions 2 my blowthrough in my 99' s-10 and need help on port size. My box will consist of 2 12" orion hcca's and will be 14.5" tall, 43" wide, and i'm not sure as 2 how much depth i'll need. I'm still in the process of learning how 2 calculate port size so assistance with this will be greatly appreciated. I currently have a blowthrough with a bandpass box formulated from Pete at hexibase. I've been trying 2 get him 2 help me construct a ported box but he's busy as hell and i've been trying 2 contact him for like 2 months with no reply. Can u guys possibly assist me? Thx alot.