SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey, I have a set of TC-7 woofers. Right now the box its in is 40x12x12 with independent chambers. Aero port out each chamber to the side 3'' in diameter and 13'' long. Its to long for what I need it now. So I was thinking making it 36x14x14. That way it would be short enough and then I could have the ports fire forwards too. Sound good? But I know these were designed for large sealed apps. however i cant find specs for that. Could someone just give me some dimentions to make a box? I dont need 3d plans and all that. Just something l x w x h because I dont know how much airspace for sealed. Thanks

I'm thinking about building a new box for my 15" DC level 3. My current box is slot ported to the back with the sub firing up towards the trunk lid, 3.3^ft tuned to 32 hz. I was thinking about building a box firing into the cab (BMW 330CI). Im not too experienced with building boxes but think i can manage this. Has anyone here done this kind of box before and can give me any pointers?

I'm thinking about trying out a new enclosure for the Xcon's. Current box is 7+ cubes I'm thinking about going sealed and having them firing up. However, I don't think I'm going to like them sealed. If I do a new box and it's sealed, I'd like to keep within these dimensions 48" w x 16" d x 12" h And if I do another ported enclosure, I'd cut the width down and just build a taller enclosure and tune it to 30-33hz. Let me know what yall think and what suggestions yall may have. Thanks!

Right now, Im running an audioque hdc3 12 in a 2.2 cubic ft box ported at 30 hz. Im losing alot of sound quality with this box and I was wondering if there are any specific box types (other than sealed) in which I may be able to retain a bit more quality. Im aware that the hdc3 is known for poor sound quality but Id rather not purchase a new driver at this time. I know anybody could tell me that it varies from car to car or something general like that but Im just looking for anyone with some experience who may be able to help me out. Open to any suggestions! Thanks

So I've had the car a year, and after a spring break trip to Florida, I found out that it's cramped with three passengers and luggage for a week. My brother should be getting a car within two years and he wants the current set up, so I'm getting a head start on my planning LOL, ready to pull the trigger when I get the money to do so. I built my own floor for the extra battery and some storage space. The sub box currently fits across the whole trunk from the back to the break in those side pieces. I want to put together two separate boxes, each to house either an SA-8 or an SD-8, sub facing back. I still want to keep access to my spare, so the cover I made for it …

this is what i have-all outside of the box----41''w--20''tall---24''deep--thats like--10.1cf-i think---port i have is 6.5''w--18.5''tall---17''deep---is this right would like to tune it to -32hz-to-35hz--if any one can help me out with a better port it would be nice--this box is for -2-15''--sundown subs thay told me to do like-4cf to-4.75cf-ea sub---i wont the subs up port back--let me no what you think--any help would be nice-and thanks

Im designing a new box for the new mag whenever it comes out and im going to stick my current sub in it for now (old 10" circle solo baric). I currently have it all figured out for 1.68 cubic feet. After the sub and port displacement that gives me the recommended 1.5 cubic feet with a 4 inch pvc port that is 19.12 inches long for a tuning of 32hz. Now my problem is that my box isnt long enough (20") for that lenght of port. Could I use 2 2 inch pvc ports each 9.55" to get the same tuning of 32hz? This will be going in my 05 king cab frontier so thats why im kinda limited on space. Also im thinking of putting the sub towards front of vehicle and port up, any advice t…

i'm almost done. i didn't use any glue, cause if it won't fit threw the hatch, then i'm gonna have to put it togother in the car:( it is ~5.9ft^3@25Hz for my 2 RL-p 15's. it has to stay in the hatch(backseat has to stay functional), and with the side windows in the way, this is as close as a wall as i could get. enjoy! more tommorow

So i went to the new shop opening up in my area and got to talking with the guys there and well one thing lead to another and i was cramming a box into the backseat of my volvo. Did i forget to mention it was for free? eaa free and after something ive decided on building a wall, yea not alot of people do 1 15" or 1 18" in a wall but this box fits no where else so why not? This box seems well constructed and after building my false floor which i am going to start with the new friends i made at Kustom Tints and Graphics 2, i honestly cant wait just because i liek how the box looks but im not sure if I AM A just kinda bolt the box down or build a baffle over the front and ma…

okay so i just finished cutting and sanding all the pieces of MDF for the new box i'm building.. i used the re audio box calculator and it is gonna be tuned to 32hz. the only problem is that i am not entirely sure if the location of the sub will affect sound quality. just wanna play it safe and get some feedback. the specs are 30'' wide x 17.5'' deep x 14'' high. if the exact calculations are needed ill put em up. thanks

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

So the plan was to build a trunk box that was larger with more port area than the box I had previously but I ran into a bit of an issue much too late in process.... After we finished the box, I tried to slide it into the trunk. Didn't fit Damn you Corolla and you're itty bitty trunk opening. Inside of the trunk would have fit it fine but it could not be fit through the opening. Sooo, I have another backseat box. LOL It sounds insanely better which is a plus, but I guess i still fail a bit in the end. It'll do for now... 4 cubes @ 31hz, 18 sq inches of port per foot. Tell me what you think. (Besides telling me it needs to go in the trunk )

ok...im gettin a cae this summer...((gas mileage purposes)) and dont know really anything about doin subs in cars....ive done trucks forever and know all about them but im dumb when it comes to what cars sound good with what....so i wanna hear some opinions on what setups yall have going in cars tht put up respectable numbers thnks, zak

i sold my crx i coudnt keep fixing it anymore my transmission went out i have bought the 18 xcon when they were on sale used for $300 and i now financed a 2003 acura cl!!! i miss my rex and now i cant use my 18 xcon i need help deciding new system i dont wanna tear my new car up but i want it to be loud and have some sq without tearin it up

Well the classes are now set and instead of using 4 ohm ratings since there are too many Grey areas I am using rated maximum rms power at the amps lowest rated ohms. That way a 1 ohm 1000 watt amp is still in the same class as a 2 ohm 1000 watt amp. This will also make people see the difference between the swap meet power amp they bought compared to a real rated power amp in the same class and should bring those customers to the retail store instead for their next purchase especially if the retailer explains why his B.S rated amp just lost to the real power rated amp.The classes are more geared to the normal customer more than the bigger powerhouse systems but still allow…

seeing that SQ is subjective to the person lisening, I have redefined SQ: 1. Having Quality speakers, able to be clear enuff to sound good over subs doing 152db Daily 2. having an amp ablt to push that set of mids & highs without distorting. 3. Hu has to have SQ Freq control features feel free to add to the list

Can someone check these calculations? Height:20 Width:38 Depth:14 Port Length:25 1/8" Port Width:3" These are externals. Thanks for any help

Next weekend I will be starting a new box build and was hoping to get some help from yall on an enclosure design. I could probably do what I did last time, just use RE calc and Google Sketch to design. However, I hear too often that the RE calc is not very accurate and tuning can be very off. I want to build this box to last me a while, so I'd like to do it right the first time. - Subwoofers being used are 2 AudioQue SDC2.5 15" - Power will provided from a SAE-1200Dv2 @ 1ohm - I'm not the best wood worker, but i can get a simple box built. I've done one already. I have a Jigsaw to do the cutting. Not the best, but it works. - I will buy MDF from Lowes. - Build will be for…

From what I have read here the port area per square foot rule is just a myth, port area has nothing to do with the size of the box. I tried searching more and all I could find was that port area is determined by the parameters of the sub, tuning, and amount of power. So I am curious what formula is used to actually calculate how much port area you need? I am currently designing a new enclosure for my 15" Fi SP4 which is run off an AQ3500. My old box was designed to fit in a trunk but now I have a Tahoe so size is not as big of a restriction for the new box. It was 3.83cuFt @32.25Hz (after displacement). I like the low end but actually would like to try tuning lower. I …

What all do I need to model my zcon for the new enclosure? About to start building and want to have the enclosure design as good as I can.

Can someone help with ideas for a new enclosure? Wanting to figure out the port velocity and everything . Model everything right for this one. . Trying to get a new computer so I can do everything my self and learn everything but in the mean time need some help.

alright, so i have a FI Bl 15" with, cooling,daily, universal d1. I am planning on building a new box because my current box only takes up 1/2 of my trunk which is in fact bad. Due to the trunk and how it is made there are two metal bars coming across the length of my trunk, and it makes my sub box aprox. 1 foot away from my trunk lid, which i think lessens the well initial BOOM, when i had my MTX JH55's in they sounded much louder when they were pushed back so i thought well "why the hell not build my own box" here are the specifications, i even made a pretty picture for you guys. ports from eD. (made in Google Sketchup!) Ideas, comments, suggestions? (some insight from…

I found a sweet deal I just picked up a killer old school soundstream Rubicon 1002. The blue one. It does 250x2@4 underrated, and 1000x1 at 4 ohm and 2. Will be PLENTY of power for the old front stage. And just a all around sweet amp And I've seen them sell for $250+. I got it for $85... nice...

Alright, so iv been looking at the inside of my car lately and it makes me a bit sad. My car is black on the outside, with a 2 tone grey interior and wood trim pieces. What i was thinking is to get a bit creative and change up the looks of my interior. I wont be upholstering or anything, i was just thinking about taking off some of the pieces and painting them black... Not sure yet... Give me your opinion if youve ever done something like this. Heres a few pictures so you can see what im working with.

I am starting a new kerfed enclosure for two Pioneer ts-w3002d4 subs. I am a little unsure of how to calculate the volume of the kerfed or flared port. I have two designs so far but I am unsure of which will be the best. I am gonna do two separate boxes and attach them together. Which is better?