SPL & SQ / Fabrication

ok so one night i was sitting around thinking up some new box ideas. i really want to have my sub facing forward into the cab of my car, and have the port be on top of the subwoofer. so i was doing some concepting and came up with this, Pdf of box idea. I just want to know if it will work before i start building i forgot to put notes so.... notes: 1. double baffle front plate 2. round port edges 3. 2.8 ^3 feet of airspace after all displacement 4. 3/4" mdf or particle board used. its going to be firing forward with the trunk sealed from the cabin. thanks, Anton Miller

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...

Been bumping my 15" SSD for a while now and I'm still loving every second of it except for one thing. The rattle. Its not the trunk rattling its my back deck speakers, and the reason their rattling so bad is because the sub is firing up towards them. My dad had to buy a special bolt and locking nut to keep the screws from backing out because every time i listened to it the screws holding the back deck speakers in backed out about 2 inches. Its really annoying, you either have to listen music with the bass so low it doesn't rattle them or so loud you can't hear the rattle. *And I'm not taking the back deck speakers out they help fill the cabin with highs So here is my plan…

Looking for a tutorial or some instructions on how to build the covers for door pods. I can build the pods, just was wondering how to go about making custom grills/coverings for the pod. Thanks for the help

can a fully loaded BTL 18" take for SPL burps ? provided with of course the proper ho alt & batteries need some info for planning a set for comp use

Well the classes are now set and instead of using 4 ohm ratings since there are too many Grey areas I am using rated maximum rms power at the amps lowest rated ohms. That way a 1 ohm 1000 watt amp is still in the same class as a 2 ohm 1000 watt amp. This will also make people see the difference between the swap meet power amp they bought compared to a real rated power amp in the same class and should bring those customers to the retail store instead for their next purchase especially if the retailer explains why his B.S rated amp just lost to the real power rated amp.The classes are more geared to the normal customer more than the bigger powerhouse systems but still allow…

I was told by a former "audio guy" that althought 3/4 MDF is used in car audio enclousers, 3/4 partical board could be used to reduce the weight of the encloser. How tru is this?

whats the max dimensions that will fit through a trunk of a mustang trunk opening... wiered ass trunks

How could I brace my port more, or do you think it needs to be braced? Here is the bracing of the entire box, but it is also for an idea of what the port looks like... also, do you think a 45 would be helpful in my port? I don't think it would make much of a difference....

Well I was bored so I made a couple vidz. Hope you enjoy :bigclap: Up first is a vid showing air movement from drivers window Breaking the lil guys in. Strange noise is not the subs. The closer the mic gets to the port the worse it gets. Lastly my no flex flex vid LMAO!! Will post more if ya want!

I recently purchased an A.P. Axis 15 and was suggested to make this box. Box is to be 3.0 cu. ft. net and to use 4 - 4" pvc ports. Because of box dimensions I'm not able to use flare ports so this is gonna be straight 4" pvc. I'm told the beauty of this type of box it the ability to change tuning and also seal up the box using plumbing inside pipe plugs. A ported and sealed box combination. My concerns is port noise. When I brought this up I was told that I would not have that much and that I would certianly not hear it while playing normal music, just on bass tracks. Is this accurate information? I think this box concept is great but if it's so great why isn't …

I am wondering if the Mach 5 SPL-12s would be any good in a T-Line? I have been told they should be good, but the fs is sorta high. I am planning on doing this with my camper shell but with a different box... the box can run the length of my truck... I plan to make up some metal frame for the box to sit on inside the bed. Having the box above the floor will give me room for my air ride when that gets installed..

a great ssa member put this togather for me.... thank you sir!

I want to build a sealed box behind the back seat of my 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is VERY little space back there, to the point that to get my airspace, I need to get rid of the back wall of the box. My idea is to use some damplifier pro or spectru sludge on the cab wall to create the back wall of the enclosure. Am I on the right track? Or is there a better way to do this. This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife. Thanks Rob

Please help, need enclosure ideas looking to break 150 while still being able to listen to music. I'm running a pioneer premier 3000.1 temporarily but will be changing over to hifonics cyclops. Any ideas would be helpful as i was debating a wall but am not sure what would be best. Have tried so many boxes that i'm tird of killing trees...PLEASE HELP!!! Thanks.

OK i need to run through and make a check with yall to see if my demisions are rgith for this box and its ports ok the box has 4.6 cuft and it will have 2 re sx 12's each displaces .16 cuft and a port that displaces .24 cuft so total displacement = .56cuft which gives the box roughly 4 cuft so i have the port 15w2H14L = 33hz does this sound ok

2 12" type r's at 1000wrms 1ohm ported. I'm upset with my box, it kinda sucks. The port wall isn't tall enough, and it's a little too big. I want aeroports for some reason, they've always caught my attention. I've also heard they sound better. Max dimensions are 14.5" height 26" length 37" width all external. I want the subs firing up and the ports going back. This box will be in the back of a '93 Range Rover Classic LWB. I can get pictures of the inside if needed. All daily use. Just need the box design, and cut sizes.

I am almost done putting together the box, and someone pointed out that the opening looks a smaller than the other opening. I went out and measured it and realized that I made it 20.5 width from side to side of the port, and 22 length. It was supposed to be the other way around tuned at 33hz. Will this mess it up too much? Is there anything I can do to fix it? What would the tuning be at? Will this lower or higher the tuning? will it mess with the sound too much? I knew I fudgeed it up... I'm so pissed Btw, The length is of the top of the port. If you need, the sides go back 25.5, and height of 5.75

What % can an enclosure be off on recomended net cubes. I thought I remembered reading 10% somewhere. It's a daily driver.

07 toyota tacoma doublecab RE SL 10 Pioneer avic f700bt HU JL 6.5 components up fron and JL 6.5 coax in back Preferd matrial is mdf i've got a ton of it. But I am no strager to working with glass and dont mind it if will yield the best results. Im going for SQ im over the bckseat box thing. My goal is a very responsive package that will hit a wide variety of HZ. with ought ruining the sub or the amp. Have not purchased the amp yet but I am looking at Rockford Fosgate Punch P325.1 mono The space we're working with is tight Do I attempt to make an enclosure that will fit the exixting cavity in the starage area or do we pull it out and go for somthing bigger?

Hi, I would like to here opinions on Subwoofer designs, Setups, And enclosures for a Convertible to produce traveling low hertz bass with the top up and down. I have built many design in my 98 Mustang Convertible for Soundoff Contest and have hit as high as 154.3 DB's in a Usaci competition. This my car i have brough to the competitions Now i am looking to build a system using the back seat or trunk or both to produce that sound quailty traveling bass, not that loud rattling bass tat you can't enjoy in the car. has anyone done this in a convertible If so what speakers, enclosure and postions was used. I have thought of using a 3 high end 10" subs in the back seat in seal …

Ok, i just bought 2 Fi Q 15's with BP Power and a AQ2200D amp for my truck. I have a 2000 ext. cab dodge dakota and am looking for some enclosure help. I currently have an idea for a certain ported wedge design with my amps fixed to the bottom but it is only 6.2 cu.ft. net with 78 sq.in of port. A similiar design can be found here: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/gallery/detail.php?vehicle_id=1095. If anyone has a design in mind, and would like to show it, I can be emailed at [email protected]. Any input is welcome. Thanks in advance for your input.

I got a box built for my 2 Funkin Audio 12" subs but something is wrong with one of them So I used 2 of my Mass destruction napalm's I had never used them before. I had the box built at 2.742 cubes ported to 40 for the funking audios the Mass destruction napalm seem to be doing ok and they seem very very loud.. My question is do you think they will be ok in this space or should I get 2 of something else like the BTL that is good up to 3 cubes.. I am running a xxx-6500d and they seem to be taking it ok I don't want to push them just yet as they are brand new. Open to suggestions don't want to smoke to new subs for sure.

I'm kinda interested in doing a T-line or horn or ABC enclosure, just want to do something different, or at least see if it will work. I read a couple of articles on T-line design, but I don't really want to do that much math. I'm just looking for some general design guidelines/ what to expect in terms of results for those types of enclosures, which is probably a lot to ask, since there is a lot that goes into the design and fine-tuning of those enclosures. For example, if i wanted to do a T-line for a 10" woofer, how large of a "pipe" would I need? How much do I need to offset the driver from the end of the pipe? stuff like that...

I have a desired tuning frequency that I want but I will have two ports...I think. The best example I could find is in the Stealth Avalanche build, basically the same idea he did but in a different vehicle and different subs, bit more air space. Here is what it looks like. As you can see, there is a port with a partition in between. So my question is, how do I figure out what to tune too. Do I tune each port to what I want the tuning to be...do I need to do some calculating and figure it out through equations....I could use some help on this subject. Also how does this type of enclosure work since the port is firing directly in front of the subs? I would assume there …