SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

Hey guys, need to get a box built in next 2 days while im off work. If anyone would help out real fast that would be very awesome, thanks! Vehicle :07 santa fe Location in the vehicle:cargo Space available (Length x Width x Height):22x45x20 Subwoofer make and model:xcon Subwoofer Size:15 Number of Subwoofers:2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.):slot What type of music do you like?:all Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?:music Tuning Freq (Hz):34 Volume : Questions:i would like to give as mush air space as possible with those dimensins, also subs up port back, id like to do the port along the bottom of the bo…

ive seen sum all plexi glass boxes and there pretty sick. how do u make one? wat would u use to seal it together and how would it sound?

Anyone wants to donate some blueprint of boxes that could fit here sub is 9515 w/ strapped saz1500 amp Length - 31.5 inches Height - 18 inches Depth - 22 inches These measurements are the space left to be exact, no box yet. Assuming 1inch MDF will be used and I'm eyeing for 4.5cu.ft. or 5cubes plus port tuned to 40-42hz. Sub is facing up and port is facing the rear hatch door. With the given depth, there's a 4inch gap remaining before the box/port would hit the rear hatch. Id appreciate your suggestions. Thanks

Anyone ever used plum ceek Mdf to build a box out of? I was thinking of trying some.

I've got these comps installed in my jeep with the tweets mounted on the doors @ the front corner of the window. As of now I'm running a reference 500 to them but plan on switching amps in the very near future. even with the crossovers @ -6db the tweets sound way too high and ear piercing. Does anyone have any experience with these comps? Any suggestions on making them sound a little better?

Ok, so I have a 3.3 total cuft box as a center console and i cannot reach over to the other side of the truck to roll down the window/unlock the door. (no power windows/locks sucks) I hear if you add poly fill to an enclosure, the enclosure behaves as if it is larger.. So I was thinking build a smaller box, but add polyfill to make it seem larger. So in the end, I will not have sacrifice output with a smaller box. If this is possible, about how much air space could polyfill potentially account for?

I plan on doing some dynamat here soon, would it be worth also filling my panels and/or doors with polyfil? What effects will it have?

Ok, let's say you need a larger enclosure for SPL competition and you have ran out of port options... You need a larger enclosure... would polyfill help or would it actually drop pressure potential... My ports are starting to tune past my peak and i can't enlarge my port area too much more... Was wondering if i start dropping polyfill in the enclosure if it will not only start to lower the tuning back some but keep me gaining as well... Is it worth a try?

Just pondering ideas and wondered why I had never seen anyone use polyurethane on boxes or anything else car audio related? Seems to me like it would be a great finish on the outside, as well as good sealant for the insides of the box. Polyurethane has a very smooth glossy finish which I would think would be great for ports and such.. Which leads me to wonder why it hasn't been used in place of fiberglass in some scenarios. Does anyone have any experience with polyurethane or know why it's never used? One idea I had, was covering an enclosure with playing cards (or anything really) with adhesive spray, then going over the cards with a few layers of poly to give it a swee…

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?

I know that ports are most efficent when they are facing on the same plane as the driver, and that you loose any gains form the port if it fires 180 degrees from the driver. but, how much SPL will be lost by aiming the por just under 90 degrees from the driver? In a (hopefully) up comming enclosure construction for an XXX18 in a Mazda B3000 ext cab putting the port on the same plane as the driver will be very hard, so i am thinking of having hte port firing up and the woofer on a slanf facing forward.... how will this compare tothe woofer and the port being on the same plane? im not concerned with not being loud, i am concerned with not beating a friends 4 JL w1v2's with…

Hi all, I'm working on a design for 3 18" BTL's for a jeep grand Cherokee, the hard part about this is that he wants to run the vehicle in the "no wall" class for db drag, meaning that you cant have any part of the audio above the window line. so this creates a space issue. he also is going to be using about 6 Power master D3100 batteries. so that takes up some of the space. the space we have to work with is 66" deep x 43.25" wide x 18" or under tall. now the batteries (which will be connected with buss bars) will be in front of the box. this will take about 14 inches of the depth, so that leaves us with 52 inches. now if you try to port firing backwards that takes…

I've got a 91' honda prelude, and I'm going to try and use as much of the trunk as possible for a pair of 12's, rather Fi BLs or Fi Qs. I'm thinking of firing the woofers up at the trunk lid or against the back of the trunk, and having the port vent through the trunk opening into the cabin of the car. I've heard how horrible sealed boxes sound if pointed through the trunk into the cabin, I'm just curious if the port would create such a horrible effect. I'm building the box to pretty much use all of the little space I have, so there is nowhere else for the port to be free of obstruction. What do you guys think?

im would like to know if port are is THAT important. freind of mine has a BL 12, he wants to buy a box that another friend built, but the port area is under 12 sq inches per cube. the sub that was in the box before sounded pretty good. just wondering if the port are being a lil small is restricting output or SQ in any noticeable way. its off by like 8 sq inches. thanks

Hi, I've read everywhere I could, but I get very different informations!!! My enclosure is about 4 ft3 and has a round 5.6"(diameter) PVC port; port length is 14". It sounds good, but I 've read that port area should be much bigger : 4 (ft3) * 15 = 60 sq inches. And my port is far from that. I don't really know the actual tuning, but I would like it to be around 30-32 hz. Do I have enough port area ? Or enough length? Enough port ? Please, help me !!!

Ok well I have a few questions when it comes to the proper way to decide on the amount of port are that you should use when it comes to designing ported boxes and 4th order enclosures . I have been hearing mixed " opinions " when it comes to picking the amount of port area needed . The most common way I have heard about is staying in between 12 - 16 sq inches of port per cube. Which in my opinion is not a very accurate way to design an enclosure . The other way that have been told is that you adjust your port area according to the xmax or linear max on your woofer. Which sounds to be a more accurate way in to better suit a build. So if anyone knows the actual proper way t…

I'm somewhat new to using WINISD and I was wondering why there is no SPL increase when a larger area port is used. Although I understand that if the enclosures are tuned to the same frequency their relative resistance is the same but it just seems like a larger port would yeild more spl (in the same fashion horns get really loud). Can anyone clear this up for me. I'm not asking about beligerently small port areas but lets say the diff between a 20sq. inch port and a 50. Same sub, box, tuning etc. Your answer doesn't need to include stuff I have already read in the thread about vortexes and air resistance. (but then again perhaps I missed something) Thanks, b

Have a mock up design 6.73cubues net after port and everything wondering if i really need 29inchsa of port per cube or is that oclver kill trying squeeze 7cubes net orafter more ifthe possible. Also running a crescendo 3500bc at 1ohma on strong electrical so ill have the zcon moving displacing a good amount of air. Just a simple port area question dont want waste space .

Hey, im about to build a box for my buddy and i wanna get around 4 cuft. per sub after all displacements. Again they're two cvr 15's. I was thinkin somewhere around 14 inches of port area per sub per cubic foot of volume and im planning on tuning the box around 35-38 hz. so (14 x 4) + (14 x 4) = 112 inches of port area I've build a ported box for an Fi Q15 and i had it tuned to 33hz but it sounded like it was tuned very low once it was inside of the truck. And i have read that when the box is intstalled in a vehicle the tuning frequency of the box drops about 5-7hz because of the resonant frequency of the vehcile? So im trying to account for this with this box i'm b…

How much port area you think would be best for 2 18" zcons. . Will be in around 16 cubes in a b pillar flat wall on about 5-6k rms

Just trying to figure all of this out. One site says figure your tuning dependant on port length, others say by width and height of port (square inches of port area). So what's the verdict? I have 2 SSA Xcon 18's wanting them in a 6.5 cuft (each) box tuned at 31 hz. Also, what is the difference sound quality and SPL wise between having one large port or a seperate port for each sub?

So Im building my box but am confused as hell. Ive read I need 12-14sq. in. of port per ^3 but the manufacturer insists on 40sq. in. x10" long @32hz. for a 6^3 net box for my 18. Its an Atomic APX. When I spoke with them they said dont listen to anybody build this exact. WTF?! Any idea why? Its rated at 5000rms. Would the larger port make it unload at low freq. with that much power and thats why they say what they say? Shouldnt it have massive port noise?! Im so confused. Someone please straighten me out on why they want it EXACTLY as they say and yet the port area doesnt make sense?

Wassup y'all, I'm about to start a box for a 21 in death penalty. I'm going for 9 cubes at 30hz with 3 8in aero ports which equals 150in of port area. Is that too much? I've heard the sub will not handle much power? Someone help me out haha

I build ported boxes on a pretty regular basis using the re enclosure calculator and they are always slot ports but i want to build a different box that uses a square port that isnt a slot port but I dont know the formulat to calulate the port area or convert the round port to a square port can anyone please give me some insite on how to do this please thanks alot .