SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Building a new box for 1 15". Was gunna make it an abnormal shape as opposed to the everyday cube. I've heard that less parallel sides results in less standing waves, but I don't think it would be too noticeable in car audio. Anyway my point is wanting opinion on the ideal shape of a box. Also plan to port it. Thanks.

hi, what is the rule of thumb for port tuning to gun for in SPL install? 45~48hz? cheers

Hi i'm starting a build, and I'm not sure if I'm going to need to upgrade my electrical system in my truck at all. I was hoping someone could tell me whether or not I should do so or not. I'm going to be installing an FI Q12" running probably an Audio Pipe 1500 in a box tuned to around 32~34 Hz. Installed in the back seat of a 1994 Ford Ranger with bone stock everything. Except a Clarion FZ409 Head unit. Which i'm still adjusting to. lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

One ten sundown sd2 series ported.or 2 e series tens sealed. Which would have more output wanting to hit low still hope sealed would do that for me as ive only done ported in cars. Any input?

So i was metered today and this is what i got... 144.6 Outlaw under the floor @ 39hz and an oddity i scored 145 @ 39hz legal on the windshield The shop i was at thought it was quite odd that i was hitting higher in legal than i was outlaw. 15 fi bl on a saz-3000d @ 2 ohm

I'm going to build a box just want to know were to buy mdf

okay new here and was told that you guys could definitely put me in at least a general direction. here goes I have a customer who had three 12" L7's powered by 3 hifonics bx11200's in the trunk of his 96 J30. the box it self was a sealed, non-separated, box that was just big enough to wrap around the woofers and fire at the rear with the box jutted up against the gas tank that resides there. he is asking if there is any way to build a box that would be noticeably louder yet still retain the punch of such a constrained box. he doesn't mind the loss of his trunk so but the real challenge is figuring out how to get the sound to penetrate through the obstacles within the trun…

Today im going to build my 1st box for the fully loaded fi bl 12in. Im going to be using 3/4in thick mdf fiber board. Would i have to use braces to hold the box, its just one 12in, and also i have a Sundown sae 1200d amp. Is it capable of producing 1500watts rms. What would you have to adjust the amp to to have a good, loud sound? I have a Stinger amp kit 0 gague, and extra 25 feet of 0 gauge wire for the big # upgrade, and i also have a kinetic battery the khc 1600. Just recentley my friend got his system installed. He has the same equipment as i do, but he has the FI Q. Let me tell you, it is LOUD AS HELL, For just one 12inch... omg i could barely breath. To be honest i…

right now my box is subs up, port back 20 cubes before subs and port with about 200+square inches of port tuned to 33hz, designed by chris at fishercustoms. It picks up lows and pretty loud, only metered before i built this box and was 149 on tl and did 151.7 on audiocontrol meter at local show. Now with this box, it sounds louder to ear, but havent metered yet. Problems now are i have bought 2 boxes of stinger roadkill bulk, did roof, doors and back door. It doesnt rattle bad, the back glass is terrible, but everytime i open back door, metal braces or pieces of the lock and handle are broken and fallin off. LOL. I got guy i work with to tig weld a rip in back door alread…

Would it be a good idea to cool your coils down to less than 0*C before your SPL run. One of the ways i have thought about would be to spraythe duster cans upside down int the pole vent. Only problem i can think of is if you got alot on the spider. Lower temperature means lower resistance which means more power.

I have always been a sealed box guy,so I have NO idea how to tune a box. That being said,how much port do I need in a 1.25ft box with DCON 10????? Will be for daily use playing mostly rock/metal. I was thinking 40-45hz maybe? Please correct me if I'm thinking wrong.

Does anyone have pics of there enclosure design/system used for new USACI Trunk Class? Or possibly a trunk system that does really well on the term lab?? Here's a link for the rules in USACI.. http://www.soundoff.org/rules.htm

I'm thinking about getting a professional shop to design and install a setup of 2 10" Icon's for me. Reason being is that it's going into a trunk (not a show car) and I want it to be practical (able to put THINGS in the trunk again) rather than having a simple carpeted box ... I want it to look good! I'm thinking about firing in (seats can fold down), sealed off, all carpet ... They talked about covering the amplifiers ... covering my battery in the trunk ... But if I'm paying a shop, what are some options that I should inquire about? Removable plates ... Plexiglass ... Company Logos on the inside deck lid ... stealth on both sides of the trunk ... lighting ... I don't w…

if any of you guys can give me an idea of what type of box works best for an early 90's cavalier station wagon id appreciate it, im a trunk guy and dont really know what works best in that type of vehicle, aside from a wall what do you guys suggest? the box will house 2 DD9512's dual 1.5 ohm subs and be powered by a single earthquake d10.

So I just got my SAZ-1200D and Diamond Audio TDX 10D4s wired up. The box I built is 2.5 ft^3 (after displacement), tuned to 33hz. Now the question is: If I build a larger box but keep the tuning freq the same, would the subs sound the same? Hit lower? This setup bangs for 2 10's in the 30-40 range, but doesn't quite hit the super lows that great.

hey guys, im about to build a ported box to sit on my back seat, just for a little fun. amp is an saz1500d@1 ohm wired up to a diehard gold with 2/0 welding cable I realize box recommendations are 1.5 to 2 cubes ported at around 30-35hz with 12-15sq inches of port area per cube, but i was wondering if there was something more exact due to my lower power and config (being in a truck on the seat) its going to be a slot port because im going to use re's box calculator. oh and i planned on going sub firing up and port facing the windshield, is this a good or bad idea? im just looking for a daily street beater

SO I am finally looking to replace my factory starting battery and I am looking at a couple different options. THe Powermaster 2400 or 2700 Kinetik HC2000 Tsunami/Yellowtop (not really looking at this option just put it here) NSB 90 Stinger 1000 (their newer line) Just looking for suggestions. My budget for battery would like to be less than 200 if used or 250 or less new.

I have 4 15's I need to fit in my Altima! Kinda a wierd lineup but I got screamin deals so oh well! I need some advice on how to run everything! I have 2 Phoenix Golds XS2500's and a PPI PC2150. Heres my subs 2 15 inch JL Audio W-6's and 1 15-inchPBX PowerBass XSDv.2 and 1 Power Acoustik 15-inch FUBAR 15W(1000w RMS ones) This is how I was gonna set it up but need help! I was gonna run an XS2500 bridged to 2Ohm to the PBX and FUBAR!(1 to each bridged) than run the PPI to the 2 JL's.... What do you think? I have a cap too a phoenix Gold XSC1o at 1.0 farad but I know I'll have to either get another alternator put in or a Optima Battery! Which should I do? I havent hooked it …

A buddy of mine wants me to design and build him a downfire box for his ext cab ranger. My question is how much is the minimal amount of distance you should leave between the sub baffle and the floor?

I cannot decide on what to do. 4 SA-15"s in a standard ported wall, or 4 SA-15"s in a 4th order bandpass. What are the positives and negatives of both? I've helped build a 4 15"s wall in the 60's and an 8 12"s 4th in 60's. I like them both, both sound good, both played well. I just cannot decide on what type of enclosure to build.

So I have a 2007 silverado crew cab and want to put 1 12" Fi BL with all the upgrades and a sundown 1200d in there. My deminsions for what I have room for are 55"long x 15"deep x 4.5" tall at the back and 8" at the front of the seat to the floor. In the middle its 6.5" Im going to probably lift the seat about 1/2" as thats how much thread I have to work with and theres no seat raising brackets yet for my truck. Im looking to do the 12" in a downfire ported box Can someone tell me if this would work or not? My sub would be 6.5" deep and my depth of the box is Im thinking going to be right about that.

ok i posted this on another spot on this fourm but i think i might have put it in the wrong spot....im building a box (hopefully my btl will be here soon) im going with sub up and port back....i was wondering if its would be best to put the sub over the port or closer to the front of the box or just in the center

What should i tune my box for a JL 13w6?

Height = 13Inches Width = 48 Inches split in half for two seperate compartments one for each sub. Depth1 = 6.5 Inches top Depth2 = 12 Inches bottem Now I donw know much about porting or tuneing. Im running two CVX's dual 2ohm VC wired @ 2ohm load off a 1500.1 zx This long skinny box fits behind my two seats in my pickup truck with one sub behind each seat. When my cousin made the box for me he put a board in the center to seperate the two subs so they both have different compartments. I wanted to maybe port the box to get a deeper boom. But i have no clue how big to cut a port hole... VentedCompact (MinimumEnclosureVolume from the manual CVX12 1.7…

So I'm taking my setup to a 1x event in timmonsville sc. I'll finally be getting metered on a t/l, but I'm wondering what I should bring with me, and if anyone has any tips. There are 2 classes they said I could compete in, truck/suv or something else like extreme personal or something like that. I don't know what would be better, or if it makes much of a difference because like I said, it's my first competition. I've already been told not to do anything to drain the batteries before getting metered, don't know how sound that is or not... Just wondering if there's anything I should know before driving 70+ miles away tomarrow moring. ;D Thanks.