SPL & SQ / Fabrication

As per title lads, with my equipment coming soon I wanna go with the loudest design possible, will be using 2 AA Mayhems with 2 Hifonics 2607D's to power them, have a nice bit of room to play around with (say a max of 25-30cuftexternal) Will I go flat wall Port up top?? Flat wall port drivers wide?? Clam?? Small Tunnel?? I'm not really pushed about numbers as I want this to rattle people (will tune to maybe 30-32hz) All suggestions welcome guys

So I'm taking my setup to a 1x event in timmonsville sc. I'll finally be getting metered on a t/l, but I'm wondering what I should bring with me, and if anyone has any tips. There are 2 classes they said I could compete in, truck/suv or something else like extreme personal or something like that. I don't know what would be better, or if it makes much of a difference because like I said, it's my first competition. I've already been told not to do anything to drain the batteries before getting metered, don't know how sound that is or not... Just wondering if there's anything I should know before driving 70+ miles away tomarrow moring. ;D Thanks.

Hi i'm starting a build, and I'm not sure if I'm going to need to upgrade my electrical system in my truck at all. I was hoping someone could tell me whether or not I should do so or not. I'm going to be installing an FI Q12" running probably an Audio Pipe 1500 in a box tuned to around 32~34 Hz. Installed in the back seat of a 1994 Ford Ranger with bone stock everything. Except a Clarion FZ409 Head unit. Which i'm still adjusting to. lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

if i bought 10 of these and made a super big ported box ( i think they are supposed to be IB?) would it sound worthy of the money i spent (slightly more than the daytons)? spl is more imporant, but sq cant just be dismissed. I found a ultra cheap in-wall 8" subwoofer. 22 bucks. thump option 2 I would be using those instead of four dayton 12's Boom option number 1

I came across these pics and was wondering if i could install some 8" mid-bass drivers in the same location. SQ/imagining is what i'm concerned about. Would it fly or should they be installed/positioned somewhere else?

Is there an experienced designer that can help me with a design

I know those precision sound ports from parts express are pretty popular so i am thinking someone might have an answer for me when using the psp flared port length calculator (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html) is the "flare length port required" from the ends of the flared portion of the port? or is it the straight length portion that the flared ends connect to? thanks in advance

so i just wired down my fi q 15 to 1 ohm.. and it hits every note really hard.. and i mean really hard.. but it doesnt sound to clean.. its in a sealed box 2.3 cf could it be because the ohm is set to low? should i have left it at 4 ohms?

Ok so I am going to build my 3rd sub box and i want to know how to cut the bracings and that stuff. And how to port/tune you box. I am going to put it in a car and i want the sub facing upward and the port too. I do not want an L ported i want like square type one. My sub is a 12 Fi SSD. I want it to use half of the trunk but not be so tall just like an inch after the sub fits. But mainly i just want to learn how to do square ports. Any help plz.

hey guys i have a box in my 2000 grand cherokee in which i had a single sa15 but now the sa15 is sold and i just bought a Zv2 15.. my box is 36.5w 14.5h 11.5d and the slot port is 3x12x19 so i know i need to make the port bigger im just not sure how big it has to be.. trying to tune it to 32 htz... any input would be wonderful thanks

Im looking to make a box for 2 12inch kicker l7s. I want the subs to have individual chambers and to face up. I want to use aero ports and have the ports facing back. I want to use 3/4 inch birtch plywood. I am having trouble to come up with a design. I want to tune it to 32hz. I am looking for help with this design and I am looking for opinions on what I want for this box. I want it to be loud with little distortion. the width of the over all box cannot exceed 40inchs and the depth of the box cannot exceed 24inchs.

So I just got my SAZ-1200D and Diamond Audio TDX 10D4s wired up. The box I built is 2.5 ft^3 (after displacement), tuned to 33hz. Now the question is: If I build a larger box but keep the tuning freq the same, would the subs sound the same? Hit lower? This setup bangs for 2 10's in the 30-40 range, but doesn't quite hit the super lows that great.

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

Without a good understanding of the proper way to wrap a subwoofer enclosure, applying carpet can be a daunting task. Allow me to solve your problems as I teach you how to rap... er I mean WRAP a sub box! If you enjoy be sure to check out my plethora of other videos! (Click the image for video)

So I was looking at pics of banginAltima's Altima and noticed the external aero ports were facing into the car thru the folded down rear seats. I'm building a box for 2 Fully Loaded 15" BL's and was wondering if I can do something similar. However, theres a catch to my set up. I have a 88' Grand Marquis that has a solid, non-folding rear seat. So I was wondering if I could make custom external aero ports thru my rear deck between the 2 6X9's. Would that have the same effect as it did in Altima's car? He gained about 4Db when he re-designed the box and port set-up. Or am I just being unrealistic?

So I have a 2007 silverado crew cab and want to put 1 12" Fi BL with all the upgrades and a sundown 1200d in there. My deminsions for what I have room for are 55"long x 15"deep x 4.5" tall at the back and 8" at the front of the seat to the floor. In the middle its 6.5" Im going to probably lift the seat about 1/2" as thats how much thread I have to work with and theres no seat raising brackets yet for my truck. Im looking to do the 12" in a downfire ported box Can someone tell me if this would work or not? My sub would be 6.5" deep and my depth of the box is Im thinking going to be right about that.

ok, i done a trunk build but ports not tuned right and i want to get lower and louder so im going to be removing the rear seat in my 95 fleetwood and thats where the box shall go. i want to keep it at window line so these are my max measurements to work with height 23" depth 26" width 56" height really needs to be 22"-23" but the width and depth can be smaller if need be, with those specs its around 16.5 cubes before subs and port, i want to be tuned around 32-33hz for rap music whats the best size box for this application, please help, any help is mucho appreciated

I got a box built for my 2 Funkin Audio 12" subs but something is wrong with one of them So I used 2 of my Mass destruction napalm's I had never used them before. I had the box built at 2.742 cubes ported to 40 for the funking audios the Mass destruction napalm seem to be doing ok and they seem very very loud.. My question is do you think they will be ok in this space or should I get 2 of something else like the BTL that is good up to 3 cubes.. I am running a xxx-6500d and they seem to be taking it ok I don't want to push them just yet as they are brand new. Open to suggestions don't want to smoke to new subs for sure.

i have a 93 nissan sentra and i purchased a bl18 how should i build the box to fit into the trunck withough compromising sound quality

hello all! i just ordered my 18" FI BL driver and am working on designing a box for this beast. i figured id go big as i am leaving for basic training(US Army) in about 6 months. Im looking to take the backseat out of my jeep wrangler and replace it with a fairly large box for this woofer. iv built some smaller sealed boxes and they have all come out fine but this will be my first time building a vented box any advice that you can share would be amazing and i thank you in advance. As far as the sub goes these are the specs that FI gives for it, i measured out my jeep and got some measurements that would work, i came up with a width of 32" a height of 16"(was planning on h…

i have a dcon 12 in a sealed box Internal box volume: 1.2 cubic ft Box Dimensions: 14-1/4"L x 14-1/4"D x 14-1/4" H Its amp is an mbquart 400w rms in a chevy 1994 blazer. it goes pretty hard but from what iv heard, it can go louder with a bigger box and a ported box. its facing the back of my car. Could i get some help on how big to build it / all of that kind of stuff? like dimensions, volume, ported size. i might take it to a local audio shop and have them build one but i don't know what sizes and stuff.

There was a video I got linked with a dude talking about his SQ comp car that had liquid cooled subs and amps and a reservoir in the back?

I need some advice on whether to go with 2 btl 15s or 2 btl 18s. I have about 16 cubic ft of space to put a box in my car. I will post pics of the car asap. I am just looking a system that hits hard hopefully around 148 to 150 dbs.

ok i posted this on another spot on this fourm but i think i might have put it in the wrong spot....im building a box (hopefully my btl will be here soon) im going with sub up and port back....i was wondering if its would be best to put the sub over the port or closer to the front of the box or just in the center

Does anyone have pics of there enclosure design/system used for new USACI Trunk Class? Or possibly a trunk system that does really well on the term lab?? Here's a link for the rules in USACI.. http://www.soundoff.org/rules.htm