SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

I was wondering if i could run two rl-p 18's in only 7.6 cubes sealed after the sub displacement. Sounsplinter suggests 4 cubes for each 18, so would running them in a smaller box not be a good idea?

I will be building 2 of these boxes sometime in the next week. There are matched to fit my tiny trunk (00 Mustang Vert)Each is 0.86896 cubic feet, tuned to 32 or 33hz. Each will house a CompVR 10 inch sub, Seeing around 400rms each. The boxes are from a friend so they will be free. There replacing prefab sealed boxes about .8 cubes I would like to know if theres anything wrong with my design. The port is 12.5 inches wide, by half an inch tall. It extends all the way until it is half an inch from the back wall.

I have designed a box for a friend of mine. He also has an 86 F150. He heard my system and wants to use my type of subs. The pioneer TS-SW3041D. I have designed a box for him and just wondering if it will be optimum for the speakers. Heres a quick drawing i did in paint: Can someone here that has a proper box building program plug the specs in and tell me if this box would be good to use, or that i should start back over. Any and all help with be greatly appriciated. Thanks in advance, Scott

Shizzzon as always if anyone would llike to chime in feel free. Shizzzon has been such a big help to me I wanted to ask him in particular about something I know I have faith in him for. My Port Love everyones ideas though so again chime away! 4 Shizzzzle I've been trying to send you a message w/ my phone #s and invite to for you and whomever to stay at mine and Kelly's home. For some reason I'm not able to send. In the attempted PM i got carried away w/ the following so I'm just making it a topic so I don't lose it. (computer has been acting up maybe on last leg) This would be the help I need from you for my "big boy" system! My previous favorite enclosure was…

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

I've seen a few installes at some shows where they put a board/plexie over the subs/ports. Whats the purpose of this, and is there an advantage doing this?

There was a video I got linked with a dude talking about his SQ comp car that had liquid cooled subs and amps and a reservoir in the back?

I've got a pair of Kicker comp CVT65's just laying around and I thought I should do something with them. the manual says 0.2^ft sealed and well.......that sucked. wondering if anyone on here has any experience with these in a ported enclosure or any other recommendation that might make them work.

I have a 1990 lincoln towncar, and i need help deciding on where the sub and port should go. I had my ss rl-p18 in there, sub/port back, but i didnt like that. I cant put the sub forward because ltc trunks are like pits with no clear passage to the cab if you get what im saying. Thanks

i have a dcon 12 in a sealed box Internal box volume: 1.2 cubic ft Box Dimensions: 14-1/4"L x 14-1/4"D x 14-1/4" H Its amp is an mbquart 400w rms in a chevy 1994 blazer. it goes pretty hard but from what iv heard, it can go louder with a bigger box and a ported box. its facing the back of my car. Could i get some help on how big to build it / all of that kind of stuff? like dimensions, volume, ported size. i might take it to a local audio shop and have them build one but i don't know what sizes and stuff.

I have a 98 single cab ford ranger. Idk if I'll be satisfied with shallow mounts. I've been looking into the fi q. I really think I could fit it behind the seats with he sub directly behind the armrest. I think the recommended sealed volume is about .6-.8 cu ft for one 10" , and I've always wanted to try a Q out. Especially for lows. Anyone see any hope in this? I'm starting to become a little discouraged. According to box calculators, I could make the box out to about .8 after sub displacement. If I should just stop wasting my time and settle on shallow mounts, please give me cheap recommendations. I've never really heard one.

I wanted to paint my port chrome and layer it in plexi. What would provide me with the greatest reflectivity as far as spray paint goes? I looked into mirror finish film but it seems to be quite pricy. I wanted to spend around 50 dollars max for about 25 sq ft.

I am looking for a box builder in the Louisville Ky area. I live in the Jefferson-town (J-Town) area (40299-3520) of Louisville Kentucky & I was wondering if any of you guys would know or recommend any box builders in the Louisville Kentucky or Southern Indiana Area. I just want someone who is good at what they do & will give me a fair price. I figure that cutting out shipping costs will save me at least $100.00 & with someone local they can actually see my car & build what I am actually looking for. Thanks Mike

so i just wired down my fi q 15 to 1 ohm.. and it hits every note really hard.. and i mean really hard.. but it doesnt sound to clean.. its in a sealed box 2.3 cf could it be because the ohm is set to low? should i have left it at 4 ohms?

I recently got my system all finished and was wondering if there is an app or something i can download to get an estimate of how many dbs i'm hitting. I know some people that have termlabs but i don't wanna drive an hour for a 5 minute test.

dont know if it is posted anywhere if so i apologize but i was wondering if anyone here is willing to give me a sweep and some test tones from 20hz to 70hz or somthing please??? i might even gift them some cash from paypal

I'd appreciate any help you guys can give me on this.... I have a 12'' Nightshade on the way and need some help with the enclosure. I currently have a 10'' Fi BL in 1.6 cubes tuned to 35 hz in my reg cab Ranger. I know it isn't the prettiest thing in the world, but it's the optimum size for the 12'' Nightshade and I'd like to re-use it. My first problem is the mounting depth.....I'm going to have to add some spacer rings to allow the Nightshade to fit depth wise and obviously I'm going to have to increase the cutout to allow a 12'' 12 spoke basket to fit. I wanted to ask you guys what would be the best way to go about this? Should I make a few circular spacers around the…

I am looking to have a ported box made for my 15" FI Bl and have looked into the group buy for khaotik enclosures but the box specs wont fit in my car. im looking for somewhere around 4 cubes sub up port back and am limited to 34" wide and about 14" tall the depth doesnt really matter. i would also like a double baffle and either some sort of coating or carpet applied to the box. thanks in advance for any advice and help.

Can anyone design me a box for two 15 inch subwoofers? Two 15 inch SHOK minis. I can go 16 inches tall, 36 inches wide and 18 inches deep. These right here. Thanks in advanced.

If I were using the RE enclosure calculator, do I need to take into account the speakers displacement for the tuning? Should I tune about 1-2 hz below my desired tune hz? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Also does anyone know what a Kicker L7 would like the box tuned to? Thanks!

Does anyone know a site where you type in your demensions and it figures it out for you with a cut sheet?

This is for 2-10" Alpine Type-R subs (SWR-1022D), and will be powered by an Alpine MRD-M501 amplifier rated at 550W into 2 ohm mono. These are my inside dimensions: Height 10" Depth 10" Width 15.25" Total is .88 ft^3/sub Total outside box dimensions are: 11"x11"x32" I need to put this box underneath a rear strut bar and from the bottom of the bar to the trunk floor is 11 1/2". Will this work or should I scrap the strut bar and build a taller box? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Ed

currently running a huge box with a fi q18 takes up the entire back seat of my truck. i love the output for the power i have and the low tuning, but it needs to come out for a carseat. i have a pair of tangband w8-740p's, single 4ohm 150wrms 8's. im thinking about building a box 1.75cu tuned to 39hz with 26.25sq of port , trying to get the most output possible. not sure how to design the box was thinking about trying a loaded horn thing like thumpper did with the icons. anyone with exsperience with these speakers or small truck boxes any imput of how i can get the most out of these 8's would be great. vehicle is 99 dakota x-cab.

OK i got this box made 4 yrs ago for my other car but it was a ported box for 2 12's. It was for 2 pioneer premiere ts-w12prs subs. Now i am not sure what the sub actually calls for on ported box but the is a review & Klippel Data on this sub here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...newthread&f=24 Its a slot port box btw The box is pretty big Here is the outer dimensions of the box Height:12.5 Width:36 Length:26 I am using 3/4 mdf wood Here is the port length Width: 4.5 Length: 11 Depth: 18 Here is the specs of my w12gti's http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Bo...2GTi_rev_f.pdf I am currently using this box on 2 w12gti's with a sundown 1500d at 2 ohms which is 80…