SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Would it be a good idea to cool your coils down to less than 0*C before your SPL run. One of the ways i have thought about would be to spraythe duster cans upside down int the pole vent. Only problem i can think of is if you got alot on the spider. Lower temperature means lower resistance which means more power.

I have a 1990 lincoln towncar, and i need help deciding on where the sub and port should go. I had my ss rl-p18 in there, sub/port back, but i didnt like that. I cant put the sub forward because ltc trunks are like pits with no clear passage to the cab if you get what im saying. Thanks

So I have a 2007 silverado crew cab and want to put 1 12" Fi BL with all the upgrades and a sundown 1200d in there. My deminsions for what I have room for are 55"long x 15"deep x 4.5" tall at the back and 8" at the front of the seat to the floor. In the middle its 6.5" Im going to probably lift the seat about 1/2" as thats how much thread I have to work with and theres no seat raising brackets yet for my truck. Im looking to do the 12" in a downfire ported box Can someone tell me if this would work or not? My sub would be 6.5" deep and my depth of the box is Im thinking going to be right about that.

hey guys, im about to build a ported box to sit on my back seat, just for a little fun. amp is an saz1500d@1 ohm wired up to a diehard gold with 2/0 welding cable I realize box recommendations are 1.5 to 2 cubes ported at around 30-35hz with 12-15sq inches of port area per cube, but i was wondering if there was something more exact due to my lower power and config (being in a truck on the seat) its going to be a slot port because im going to use re's box calculator. oh and i planned on going sub firing up and port facing the windshield, is this a good or bad idea? im just looking for a daily street beater

I have a 98 single cab ford ranger. Idk if I'll be satisfied with shallow mounts. I've been looking into the fi q. I really think I could fit it behind the seats with he sub directly behind the armrest. I think the recommended sealed volume is about .6-.8 cu ft for one 10" , and I've always wanted to try a Q out. Especially for lows. Anyone see any hope in this? I'm starting to become a little discouraged. According to box calculators, I could make the box out to about .8 after sub displacement. If I should just stop wasting my time and settle on shallow mounts, please give me cheap recommendations. I've never really heard one.

I wanted to paint my port chrome and layer it in plexi. What would provide me with the greatest reflectivity as far as spray paint goes? I looked into mirror finish film but it seems to be quite pricy. I wanted to spend around 50 dollars max for about 25 sq ft.

One ten sundown sd2 series ported.or 2 e series tens sealed. Which would have more output wanting to hit low still hope sealed would do that for me as ive only done ported in cars. Any input?

Hi i'm starting a build, and I'm not sure if I'm going to need to upgrade my electrical system in my truck at all. I was hoping someone could tell me whether or not I should do so or not. I'm going to be installing an FI Q12" running probably an Audio Pipe 1500 in a box tuned to around 32~34 Hz. Installed in the back seat of a 1994 Ford Ranger with bone stock everything. Except a Clarion FZ409 Head unit. Which i'm still adjusting to. lol. Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

What should i tune my box for a JL 13w6?

Hey, I ran into a little problem putting in my door speakers. They're going in a 1999 honda Civic 4dr. It's hard to explain, but i has pics! Anyways, with this honda the speaker doesn't mount directly to the door, but to the door panel....nvm just ckech the pics out: As you can see, the holes where the door panel screws in is blocking how i would otherwise mount the speaker to the door and bring out of the door with MDF rings (need to come out about an 1"). Any suggestions? It seems like I'd have to cut off two of the three mounting place for screws to fit the speaker, but i'm hesitant to do that lol

I am looking for a box builder in the Louisville Ky area. I live in the Jefferson-town (J-Town) area (40299-3520) of Louisville Kentucky & I was wondering if any of you guys would know or recommend any box builders in the Louisville Kentucky or Southern Indiana Area. I just want someone who is good at what they do & will give me a fair price. I figure that cutting out shipping costs will save me at least $100.00 & with someone local they can actually see my car & build what I am actually looking for. Thanks Mike

currently running a huge box with a fi q18 takes up the entire back seat of my truck. i love the output for the power i have and the low tuning, but it needs to come out for a carseat. i have a pair of tangband w8-740p's, single 4ohm 150wrms 8's. im thinking about building a box 1.75cu tuned to 39hz with 26.25sq of port , trying to get the most output possible. not sure how to design the box was thinking about trying a loaded horn thing like thumpper did with the icons. anyone with exsperience with these speakers or small truck boxes any imput of how i can get the most out of these 8's would be great. vehicle is 99 dakota x-cab.

OK i got this box made 4 yrs ago for my other car but it was a ported box for 2 12's. It was for 2 pioneer premiere ts-w12prs subs. Now i am not sure what the sub actually calls for on ported box but the is a review & Klippel Data on this sub here http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...newthread&f=24 Its a slot port box btw The box is pretty big Here is the outer dimensions of the box Height:12.5 Width:36 Length:26 I am using 3/4 mdf wood Here is the port length Width: 4.5 Length: 11 Depth: 18 Here is the specs of my w12gti's http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Bo...2GTi_rev_f.pdf I am currently using this box on 2 w12gti's with a sundown 1500d at 2 ohms which is 80…

if any of you guys can give me an idea of what type of box works best for an early 90's cavalier station wagon id appreciate it, im a trunk guy and dont really know what works best in that type of vehicle, aside from a wall what do you guys suggest? the box will house 2 DD9512's dual 1.5 ohm subs and be powered by a single earthquake d10.

I got a box built for my 2 Funkin Audio 12" subs but something is wrong with one of them So I used 2 of my Mass destruction napalm's I had never used them before. I had the box built at 2.742 cubes ported to 40 for the funking audios the Mass destruction napalm seem to be doing ok and they seem very very loud.. My question is do you think they will be ok in this space or should I get 2 of something else like the BTL that is good up to 3 cubes.. I am running a xxx-6500d and they seem to be taking it ok I don't want to push them just yet as they are brand new. Open to suggestions don't want to smoke to new subs for sure.

hi everyone, I'm posting yet another topic to see if I can get any more excellent advice. In a previous post I stated that I was gonna build my own box. I know I want a sealed box. My goal is a real flat response. In my literature for my subs (Phoenix Gold titanium elite) they list 2 different recommendations for sealed boxes they are as follows: {Musical: Vb 1.6, F3 33 Hz} {SPL: Vb 1.0, F3 36Hz} My question to you guys is, Since I have 2 subs, What would be the outcome of making 1 box to musical specs and the other to the SPL spec. The speaker placement will be under the rear deck lid with subs facing the rear of the car. Car being my Chrysler 300. The box will be made…

Im looking to make a box for 2 12inch kicker l7s. I want the subs to have individual chambers and to face up. I want to use aero ports and have the ports facing back. I want to use 3/4 inch birtch plywood. I am having trouble to come up with a design. I want to tune it to 32hz. I am looking for help with this design and I am looking for opinions on what I want for this box. I want it to be loud with little distortion. the width of the over all box cannot exceed 40inchs and the depth of the box cannot exceed 24inchs.

This is for 2-10" Alpine Type-R subs (SWR-1022D), and will be powered by an Alpine MRD-M501 amplifier rated at 550W into 2 ohm mono. These are my inside dimensions: Height 10" Depth 10" Width 15.25" Total is .88 ft^3/sub Total outside box dimensions are: 11"x11"x32" I need to put this box underneath a rear strut bar and from the bottom of the bar to the trunk floor is 11 1/2". Will this work or should I scrap the strut bar and build a taller box? Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Ed

I've got a pair of Kicker comp CVT65's just laying around and I thought I should do something with them. the manual says 0.2^ft sealed and well.......that sucked. wondering if anyone on here has any experience with these in a ported enclosure or any other recommendation that might make them work.

so i just wired down my fi q 15 to 1 ohm.. and it hits every note really hard.. and i mean really hard.. but it doesnt sound to clean.. its in a sealed box 2.3 cf could it be because the ohm is set to low? should i have left it at 4 ohms?

im building my third box but first wall and i always wonderd if when i calculate the cubic feet of the box do i subtract the port cubic feet??? i have come up with a box thats 17.5cf but the port is 2.4cf and each woofer is .25cf so its like 14.6cf .please some one correct me if im wrong im not to sure

I bought a box i just saw some of the glue is coming undone so im gonna glue it again and screw it down and seal up the inside. But i need to know what it is tuned to here are the measurments thanks in advanced. I have an L715 in a ported box the measurments are 16" h 40" w 17.5" d and the port is 3.5" w and 13.375" deep. I would like to know how many hz it is tuned too and how many cubic feet it is after port and sub displacement. Thank you

I am looking to have a ported box made for my 15" FI Bl and have looked into the group buy for khaotik enclosures but the box specs wont fit in my car. im looking for somewhere around 4 cubes sub up port back and am limited to 34" wide and about 14" tall the depth doesnt really matter. i would also like a double baffle and either some sort of coating or carpet applied to the box. thanks in advance for any advice and help.

ok i posted this on another spot on this fourm but i think i might have put it in the wrong spot....im building a box (hopefully my btl will be here soon) im going with sub up and port back....i was wondering if its would be best to put the sub over the port or closer to the front of the box or just in the center

I've seen a few installes at some shows where they put a board/plexie over the subs/ports. Whats the purpose of this, and is there an advantage doing this?