SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Why is it that some companies suggest a larger box for Fart boxes then others recommend smaller boxes for Fart boxes? What's the difference? Why would a large box work for one sub and not another and vice versa?

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good table saw to be able to cut whole sheets of wood? Would want to stay under 1500. Will be for an audio shop

Current setup: exodus ex-anarchy mids peerless/scanspeak hds tweets Kicks are sealed. I've started making new kick panels for the mids and tweets, possibly porting for more midbass, but I've started thinking about exodus mids in doors, get some midrange drivers (bumping up to a three way, I think I can manage ), put midrange & tweets in kick area, or just midrange kick, and or possibly tweets in dash and deal with window reflections. I like the idea of mids in doors so I could seriously free up some leg room, what downsides am I'm looking at? If they went into the doors, they would be mounted to a fiberglass panel/pod that's securely bolted to the sheet metal. The p…

So I know what SQ means and I'm not going 100% that route. I want something that sounds good to my ears. I don't want a flat band but then again I don't want a U either. I want a good blend of bass to midbass and no harsh highs, but I do like loudish tweeters. Not the cheap hood ninja ones where they have 4 sets. To start off, its going in my 01 Ford F250 CrewCab. I'm thinking of Headunit- Kenwood DoubleDin(no sure on which yet.) Subbass- 2 10 AA Chaos(Behind backseat) Midbass/Midrange -AA 7" CF mid(Factory Door location) Tweeter- AA Seas tweeter Processor- Not sure yet. (I like the RF 3sixty) Sub amp- Sundown SAZ1500v2(or 2000d) Mid amp- Crossfire VR404 bridged Tweeter a…

Want to build a series-tunes 6th order for a Single Fi Car Audio SSD 18. Not sure where to start I know 6th orders are more complex to design and more of a trial and error build but if I never try it out I will never learn. So of course the goal is to successfully build a 6th order but depending on the final results if it does not meet expectations there will be adjustments. Also if none of the revisions succeed I will fall back on a standard Ported Enclosure . Please if you have any useful information on 6th order designing/building It would be awesome if you can share them with me . Thanks in advance max dimension - height 30” - depth 21” - width 38…

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/551/world...ingle-subwoofer can this be confirmed ?

if anyone knows were or who makes 8 inch aero ports please text me 606-875-9811 thanks

I currently have Rainbow Cal27 tweeters and Rainbow Profi Kick midbass. I am looking for a midrange to make a "hybrid" 3way frontstage (that words seems rather redundant ) I have a profi crossover and the intent was to place the tweeter and small dome midrange quite close to each other in the kickpanel, while the midbass is in the door. The midbass will be in the door. The specs on the midrange need to be a 2" dome with ~ 1" mounting depth and 4 ohms (because of the crossover, I am unsure how the crossover point will be affected by an 8 ohm midrange. I feel that my 880 should be able to t/a the midrange and tweeter because they are so close together, they will act as on…

It was around 1990 when I helped install two 15"inch subs (i believe they were Pyramid) in a Chevy Cavalier, and installing a 15" MTX in a Mustang hatch back. Both systems were running around 300-400 watts or so and were extremely loud for the time. As car audio has become more popular, I've seen the trend go to the bigger and loudest SPL system you can get (Is there really a 2-way system that can keep up with a 2000-4000 watts sub system and sound good, and not have to have 8 mids and 12 tweets?). The thought of thousands of watts in a system were unheard of. As Im getting older, the trend still keeps expanding. Now you have people installing a sub stage with thousands…

I'm gonna be trying a lot of things and reporting what does and doesnt work. Unfortunately, i can't post back everything as the wall and corners have already been made. What i will be focusing on is head unit settings, amp settings, port area, port length, port angle, car seal jobs, car bracing, car mods, internal box coating, etc... As of right now, i did discover something rather interesting- The difference between playing a sine wave vs a square wave on the meter using a TLab. At low volume, a got a reading of 140.2 using a sine wave. At the same volume, i got a reading of 142.1 using a square wave. Now, when ran full tilt and clipped- SQUARE wave- 147.2 SINE wave - 14…

just as the title says, who all is going, I might be able to make a trip out, not sure though

Vehicle : Acura RSX (hatchback) Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): max 20 L x 31W x 17 H Subwoofer make and model: SSA Icon D2 Subwoofer Size: 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Slot What type of music do you like?: Rap, Occassional Decaf Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Rap Tuning Freq (Hz): 32? Volume : 2.1 after displacement, maybe more? Electrical: Kinetic HC1200 under the hood, and Kinetic HC1200 in the rear. Stock Alt. 0 gauge run front to back/grounds. Big 3 coming soon. Amp: Rockford T15001-bdcp Looking to ta…

I don't want to run rear speakers, and I was told here that 6's wouldn't keep up with what I was running, so I thought I'd try to fit 8's in the front doors. I remember hearing that someone here had done it to their blazer without pods, but I don't remember how they said they did it. I would run a pair of Crescendo PWX-8's and a pair of their tweeters. If the eight had trouble reaching up high enough, I could put a pair of 4's or 4x6's in the dash, in the factory locations to help with vocals.

I'm helping a friend build a box. I've done a few boxes in the past, but this one is different. This one isn't a rectangular box. He wants to, or needs to, use all of his trunk space to squeeze in 2 15" Kicker L7s. The box I designed is 6.11 cubic feet after displacement tuned to 33 hz with ~78 square inches of port. It will be braced and double baffled with 3/4" MDF. My only worry is the port being cut off by the roof of the trunk, but it's got a couple inches to breathe, so it should be fine, right? Criticism is welcome! Thanks!

What material do you think is better to build with MDF or birch. I seen alot of builds using birch, but I have never used it. Does it hold up as well as mdf or better? What are the advantages of useing birch over MDF? Just want some input before I start building, thanks.

hey guys, i was looking for the recommended enclosure size for the eclipse sw9122, and i cant find them anywhere, my specs of my trunk are 35" wide, 20" deep and 22" tall...but that is way to big for this 12 i would think. i have been searching google and bing for about 2 hrs and all i can find is what other people have used. any help would b great. thanx.

Hi, I am trying to decide between 2 icon 12"s or 1 icon 15" I will be powering with a taramp HD3000.1 around 1500RMS. I am trying to keep my box size down. On the 15" it gives a 3 cu ft ported box, and a 4 cu ft ported box. How much difference in SQ and performance would I see if I used the 3 cu ft vs the 4? also Could I maybe split the difference? 3.5 cu ft? I can do 4, just was hoping I could make it a little smaller. I don't know if I am going to have the room for 2 12"s so that's why I was thinking of one 15" but would I be better off SQ wise to do 2 12"s? Thanks!

Ok. I have a 01 Ford F-250, Crew cab. I've been doing a lot of reading since my last thread. Got a better idea of what I want. I just need help deciding which route to take. First, I want a good staging and imaging. At first I didn't really care about this, but now I almost can't listen to my setup now because I can hear each speaker individually. Its really driving me crazy. As far as having a perfect reproducing of the recording, meh, I don't care so much about that. I don't want it way offf, but I want my tastes. Also, for step one I won't have a processor, I will eventually, and I'm sure I won't be able to dial everything in until, but I think I can live with it. Op…

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. …

hey guys should i build this or should i just keep it simple i have no experience designing an 4th order and would hate to waist 2 sheets of mdf if some one has input for a better enclosure lol its going to be a 1:2 chamber ratio rear is going to be 1.28 after displacements front is going to be 2.76 cf tuned to 36.09 box peaks at 33.79 at 6.69 db and here are pics of what i imagined

Well I've been messin around with WinISD for the past hour, converting units to metric and back again, etc. All I can say is, I'm completely lost. In case you haven't read any of my other posts, here's my equipment: (1) 18" Fi BTL N2 (1) AQ2200D (1) XS Power D1200 Those are the only things I have purchased so far. Right now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do about the box. I think I'm gonna go with a slot ported box, tuned in the upper 30s/lower 40s. Only problem is, the process of designing a box that won't sound like shit is a tough task that is starting to become overwhelming. First question: How do you know what size box to put into a calculator such as this o…

Ok so I purchased 3 SA-10s off someone on here and should get them within a week. I really wanted to build a box with a port because lots have said SA-10s really shine ported.. but i wasnt so good at figuring out all the math for the port and even worse we sucked at knowing how to build it good.. ( first box ported we made really ) So I have been looking at these circular ports like tubes you add as the port and it seems much simpler to me.. if I understand it correctly and I tried to use 12volt.com to help me figure out port length and size and stuff.. So could someone explain to me how you build a port with the circular tubing or aero whatever it is i guess? is it serio…

Vehicle : 88 Corolla FX Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): 38x18ishx16ish Subwoofer make and model: Not sure Subwoofer Size: 6.5 or 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 or 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): T-line What type of music do you like?: Rock country rap dubstep electronic etc Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Musical.."SQL" Tuning Freq (Hz): Not sure Volume : Not sure Questions: Been reading and watching videos on T-line boxes over the last week and im really wanting to try one now with either 2 6.5s or 1 12. Currently have 1 american bass xr12 on a r…

My question is in regards to enclosures. Mostly the relationship between net volume and port area. From the little research I've done. High port area combined with small volume net will yield a very narrow bandwith but with most SPL.But, if you increase net volume, combined with high port area, you will increase SPL while sustaining a wide bandwith.So what I am thinking is. As an example. If I only had 1000watts to a 3000watt subwoofer, 180cuin would be too much port area because I do not have adequate power to displace as much air as I would if I had 5000 watts. Is this way of thinking correct? Like, hard to convey what I'm thinking via typing. But, I guess what I'm s…

Here is the low down of what my system consist of Double Din tv with nav kicker ss 5.25" componet set kicker ss 6.5" mid bass zapco 1000.4 4 channel amp 2 zapco 10s cadence a7 ( for now) my a7 or whatever amp i get will be hid where it cant be scene. these pics below will just show the center console where my zapco amp will be. my truck is an 04 f150 extended cab with a center console already, i just made a piece that conformed to the back of my existing console to extend it all the to the rear of the truck. Here is some of the pics i have so far, not done but you get the idea Using cardboard to get the templet from around my cupholders test fitting one of the panels st…