SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hey guys, i was looking for the recommended enclosure size for the eclipse sw9122, and i cant find them anywhere, my specs of my trunk are 35" wide, 20" deep and 22" tall...but that is way to big for this 12 i would think. i have been searching google and bing for about 2 hrs and all i can find is what other people have used. any help would b great. thanx.

im looking to buy a single 15" sub. im upgrading from 2 12" sony xplod sub so im sure whatever i pick is going to be a helluva upgrade but i still want to get the best bang for my buck and SQ. I looking at the Icon X and Fi Q and i wanted to know which would be louder and have better SQ. Also what box should i use sealed or ported Vehicle: 2008 Trailblazer LT with bose all the way around with a pioneer 3200 DVD indash headunit. THanks for all your feedback

hey guys should i build this or should i just keep it simple i have no experience designing an 4th order and would hate to waist 2 sheets of mdf if some one has input for a better enclosure lol its going to be a 1:2 chamber ratio rear is going to be 1.28 after displacements front is going to be 2.76 cf tuned to 36.09 box peaks at 33.79 at 6.69 db and here are pics of what i imagined

Okay, it's about time to put my Sundown SAZ 3000D to good use, I've finally settled on subs, they are Crossfire XP 15's that I will get for super cheap and they are high quality subwoofers: http://crossfirecaraudio.com/htdoc/cf_m01_product_05_xs.asp#. I have some dimensions worked out, I used the SSA Box Calculator and I believe it's all worked out, I just need help bringing the calculator measurements to life! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/home/in...int=1&page= Can someone give me a hand on how to put that on paper so I can build it?

as u can tell, no where to put subs under the seat. behind the seat, there is very very little space. The back seat is a 60/40 bench seat. that means one side is a seat and the middle seat, while the other seat is just 1 seat. lastly u can see that the console is not very wide, its not even 10" wide so cant even do a 10" sub there unless someone has an idea. only way i see console box working is if i downfire it, but it would be a tall box, as the sub cant mount between the seats, so it would be above the seats. so take a good 5" or more mounting depth sub, +the 4 inches to get over the seat+ 2-3 inches behind sub, it would be really tall. also behind the console, i tried…

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/551/world...ingle-subwoofer can this be confirmed ?

never designed a ported box before so feel free to give any critisism/help for an xcon 10" net box volume 1.37 cubes port length 31.05" diameter: 1.75" if anyone is so inclined feel free to double check calculations and such as ive never done this before and might have done something wrong all info should be in pics bellow

So I know what SQ means and I'm not going 100% that route. I want something that sounds good to my ears. I don't want a flat band but then again I don't want a U either. I want a good blend of bass to midbass and no harsh highs, but I do like loudish tweeters. Not the cheap hood ninja ones where they have 4 sets. To start off, its going in my 01 Ford F250 CrewCab. I'm thinking of Headunit- Kenwood DoubleDin(no sure on which yet.) Subbass- 2 10 AA Chaos(Behind backseat) Midbass/Midrange -AA 7" CF mid(Factory Door location) Tweeter- AA Seas tweeter Processor- Not sure yet. (I like the RF 3sixty) Sub amp- Sundown SAZ1500v2(or 2000d) Mid amp- Crossfire VR404 bridged Tweeter a…

Does anyone know of any way to install subs into a chevy avalanche and still have the midgate useable? I use the thing like a truck but still want to get at least a 12 into it. I also have 3 kids so losing a seat is not an option. Help.

I'm gonna be trying a lot of things and reporting what does and doesnt work. Unfortunately, i can't post back everything as the wall and corners have already been made. What i will be focusing on is head unit settings, amp settings, port area, port length, port angle, car seal jobs, car bracing, car mods, internal box coating, etc... As of right now, i did discover something rather interesting- The difference between playing a sine wave vs a square wave on the meter using a TLab. At low volume, a got a reading of 140.2 using a sine wave. At the same volume, i got a reading of 142.1 using a square wave. Now, when ran full tilt and clipped- SQUARE wave- 147.2 SINE wave - 14…

It was around 1990 when I helped install two 15"inch subs (i believe they were Pyramid) in a Chevy Cavalier, and installing a 15" MTX in a Mustang hatch back. Both systems were running around 300-400 watts or so and were extremely loud for the time. As car audio has become more popular, I've seen the trend go to the bigger and loudest SPL system you can get (Is there really a 2-way system that can keep up with a 2000-4000 watts sub system and sound good, and not have to have 8 mids and 12 tweets?). The thought of thousands of watts in a system were unheard of. As Im getting older, the trend still keeps expanding. Now you have people installing a sub stage with thousands…

I have been messing around with SketchUp to design a box for my 15 Xcon, I have only built a few boxes all of which I used the re box calculator so this is new for me. I'm looking for any suggestions or recommended changes to what i have so far, as far as port area and tuning frequency. This is based off an estimated max size 34"w 17" h 18" d. (I'm going to make a test cardboard box to see the largest size that can fit through the opening)

Well ive decided since i still have a week or two before i can start building my box, im going to design a ported box instead of a sealed box for my single ss rl-p 18. im going to stick with the suggested size and tuning(5cubes, 27hz) but i want to use flared aero ports. So here are some questions. 1) what diameter port should i buy and how many?( i kind of want two for the looks, but if ones better, let me know) 2) do you measure the flare of the port when tuning it? 3) were is a good place to buy them? thanks for the help!

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. …

Got a quick question. What does multiple runs of power cable front to back do? Does it increase voltage or help handle the amount of power being pulled from your rear battery back? I ask because I’ve had the fuse holder near the front battery melt a while back. Everything has been good for the past few months. And this just happened. So I cut off the melted part of the wire and put a new fuse holder in. And recently it’s done it again. Ive read that maybe the wire can’t handle the heat or whatever so it starts to melt. Will multiple runs of 1/0 awg help with this problem or would it be wise to just run a 2/0. My my system consists of a second battl…

Current setup: exodus ex-anarchy mids peerless/scanspeak hds tweets Kicks are sealed. I've started making new kick panels for the mids and tweets, possibly porting for more midbass, but I've started thinking about exodus mids in doors, get some midrange drivers (bumping up to a three way, I think I can manage ), put midrange & tweets in kick area, or just midrange kick, and or possibly tweets in dash and deal with window reflections. I like the idea of mids in doors so I could seriously free up some leg room, what downsides am I'm looking at? If they went into the doors, they would be mounted to a fiberglass panel/pod that's securely bolted to the sheet metal. The p…

What material do you think is better to build with MDF or birch. I seen alot of builds using birch, but I have never used it. Does it hold up as well as mdf or better? What are the advantages of useing birch over MDF? Just want some input before I start building, thanks.

I have designed a box using Torres. Under port dimensions I have entered 33.5 as my length In the calculator it has a Physical Port length of 25. It also states that this will require me to make a bend but at 25 inches In my mind I was looking at it that I will make the two peices of wood a total of 33.5" long. 1. What is the difference? 2. Which should I use to make my cuts with? 3. Am I looking at that incorrectly? I am just confused now.

Vehicle : Acura RSX (hatchback) Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): max 20 L x 31W x 17 H Subwoofer make and model: SSA Icon D2 Subwoofer Size: 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Slot What type of music do you like?: Rap, Occassional Decaf Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Rap Tuning Freq (Hz): 32? Volume : 2.1 after displacement, maybe more? Electrical: Kinetic HC1200 under the hood, and Kinetic HC1200 in the rear. Stock Alt. 0 gauge run front to back/grounds. Big 3 coming soon. Amp: Rockford T15001-bdcp Looking to ta…

I currently have Rainbow Cal27 tweeters and Rainbow Profi Kick midbass. I am looking for a midrange to make a "hybrid" 3way frontstage (that words seems rather redundant ) I have a profi crossover and the intent was to place the tweeter and small dome midrange quite close to each other in the kickpanel, while the midbass is in the door. The midbass will be in the door. The specs on the midrange need to be a 2" dome with ~ 1" mounting depth and 4 ohms (because of the crossover, I am unsure how the crossover point will be affected by an 8 ohm midrange. I feel that my 880 should be able to t/a the midrange and tweeter because they are so close together, they will act as on…

Hi guys im new at this and was wondering if i could get the usual help you guys give others ohh and thanks in advance. I got this system i got two performance teknique amps one is a 2000 watts 2 ch and the other is a 1600 watts one i got two kikker subwoofers 12" double coil 800watts each anda7" lcd screen and an alpine 9851 model radio plus the 7 channel pre amp and the profile crossover ok said that. Now i got everything installed correctly i even bought an extra gel 800 optima battery and a 1.5 capacitor digital now the problem is that of a scale from 1 to 10 i have to have the subwoofers volume down in like 3 cause my subwoofers amp keeps going ofthen have to turn …

just as the title says, who all is going, I might be able to make a trip out, not sure though

Here is the low down of what my system consist of Double Din tv with nav kicker ss 5.25" componet set kicker ss 6.5" mid bass zapco 1000.4 4 channel amp 2 zapco 10s cadence a7 ( for now) my a7 or whatever amp i get will be hid where it cant be scene. these pics below will just show the center console where my zapco amp will be. my truck is an 04 f150 extended cab with a center console already, i just made a piece that conformed to the back of my existing console to extend it all the to the rear of the truck. Here is some of the pics i have so far, not done but you get the idea Using cardboard to get the templet from around my cupholders test fitting one of the panels st…

I am new to this and replacing my RE SXX 15 worried after a year it sounded cool, but the thing on E40 etc. to long might have to be turned down got a little smell. I have looked at Xcon wanting something lower and only way I could fit an 18" would be in a sealed box, upgrading to try and get more low end, handle Hifonics Brutus 2400 better, and hit all day. It will be one speaker guess everyone seems to call Xcon SQ sub more than Zcon, 15 would bolt in box net slightly over 3.55 aero port 6" might upsize box and run 4-5 4" tune it lower even in current setup probably tune it lower then RE was. I looked at the Zcon 15 because of the better coil and actually sensitivit…

I don't want to run rear speakers, and I was told here that 6's wouldn't keep up with what I was running, so I thought I'd try to fit 8's in the front doors. I remember hearing that someone here had done it to their blazer without pods, but I don't remember how they said they did it. I would run a pair of Crescendo PWX-8's and a pair of their tweeters. If the eight had trouble reaching up high enough, I could put a pair of 4's or 4x6's in the dash, in the factory locations to help with vocals.