SPL & SQ / Fabrication

well I really miss my back seat. Right now I have a false floor and a box back there. I want to do a blow through really bad. I dont know how to make the box though. The sub is an 18" Fi Audio BTL. I cant mount it vertically because the sub is taller then the bed. It will have to be at some type of an angle. Then I run into the problem of how to make the actual box and how it comes into the cab.Any help would be awesome and if someone could draw up something really nice there could be some cash involved. Right now im running around 7 cubes and ported to 31 hz..I want it to be tuned low cuz it kills the lows with the 18"..Thanks for the help. Here is what it looks like rig…

I sm trying to get my trunk ready for everything but before I start deadening I need to decide what to do with my spare tire well. I know I cant leave everything in there cuz it will vibrate like a mother. But if I take everything out there is just a big hole so what can I do to cover this that won't cause any noise?

Ok, i thought i had tested enough as to how exactly i am going to build and face my box but maybe i'm wrong so i'm going to buy this meter - http://cgi.ebay.com/186-db-SPL-SOUND-LEVEL...1QQcmdZViewItem They say that it is calibrated just like some other top of the lines including the new Termlab sensors. I would buy a TL but not for the price they want for just building the best box for my money. All you do with this thing is hook it up to a DMM and the voltage it outputs, you look at this chart to see your Db reading. It is accurate down to 1\1000th of a volt AND Db so that's interesting. The slightest change can be detected which is great. So, here in the near future…

I was designing a SPL box for 2 10's but i was seeing in other box's a triangle down in the port here is a image of my design. is this correcto or do not is very efective in spl designs? is for 2 10" it have 2.33ft3 with the woofer, port & 45's displacement, the triangle is not contemplated in the displacement. i hope you can help me

I know Trupan is lighter, but more expensive, has anyone used it and how did you like it over MDF? Does it "sound" different?

Ok people, I decided that if I can go with around 3.5^ for each enclosure for the HD 15's, then i'm going with that. I know that isn't the optimal size for this sub, but it's just for a daily driver and not doing any competitions; basically trying to bump somebody out on a street situation. If this would be too small for the subs to actually put out at their full potential, then I would have to go with 2 of the HDC312's. I was thinking to take out the rear deck and have the subs/ports firing through there with having the space b/t the box and metal sealed. What's the input on this one?

I would like to go with two jl audio 13 tw5 or two re audio sl12 http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/646/res-n...nclosed-woofers http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs_pa...php?page_id=245

What material do you think is better to build with MDF or birch. I seen alot of builds using birch, but I have never used it. Does it hold up as well as mdf or better? What are the advantages of useing birch over MDF? Just want some input before I start building, thanks.

Hey guys, I just finished my box. Was all excited, i did i dry build first. just screw it in before glueing. After I built the box I take it outside only to find it doesnt wanna go in my car. YES I did measure twice and cut once, but i failed to measure the clearing distance of my trunk to slide it in. Here is the plan I went by 4cuft. at 35Hz Is there any way I can sacrifice any depth when putting this in my car? Height: 17" Width: 39" Depth: 16.25" Thanks for the input and flaming, Curt

Anyone wants to donate some blueprint of boxes that could fit here sub is 9515 w/ strapped saz1500 amp Length - 31.5 inches Height - 18 inches Depth - 22 inches These measurements are the space left to be exact, no box yet. Assuming 1inch MDF will be used and I'm eyeing for 4.5cu.ft. or 5cubes plus port tuned to 40-42hz. Sub is facing up and port is facing the rear hatch door. With the given depth, there's a 4inch gap remaining before the box/port would hit the rear hatch. Id appreciate your suggestions. Thanks

hey guys one of my buddies says a nice cheap effective meathod for sound deadening is resisto found in roofing sections in homehardware stores... apparently its not as good as the top dynamat or raammat but he says its pretty much the same stuff as fatmat which is cement based (not Butyl). can anyone confirm? i would be real interested to use this stuff (if it works) on my trunk lid and a bit of the back of my trunk to stop trunk raddling. thx -phil

Here is the start of the kicks built by ramos himself. dont mind the hanging wires lol i dont know where that came from

alrighhtttyy guys.... i got a different build that i need some help with because i realized the two SPL15s had a slim chance of working out =[. I'm putting a ascendant audio mayhem 18" in the trunk of a 01 chrysler sebring sedan. The sub is going to be front firing and im just going to keep the back seats down (when i put them up for people to sit in them i will just cut the subs off). The trunk is pretty flat and the box should be pretty easy to load in from the car with the seats folded down. I have L29 x W34 x H18 to work with. for you who dont know a mayhem is essentially a loaded BTL.

What do you guys use to make those box blueprints?

Hey guys new to this site and would like some help im not new to building boxes done a couple but always had a blue print for them .I have an 03 envoy and have 48x30x36 to work with im planning on getting 2 18bl powering them up with 1800 watts a piece 4 kenetic batts and 250 amp alt.just need help on getting blue prints for my build.thanks

All my experience in audio comes with sealed enclosures, even so, after having visited this site, I feel like my past work was rather half assed and mindless. This is what I have so far: I am planning on using two soundsplinter rli10s, and I could be perfectly content with keep it sealed, but I want to try my hand at porting and perhaps learn something new. I have been trying to talk to a few people about porting this enclosure, but I am not really getting any good information, and I am also reluctant to trust any information from WinISD. From what I understand, that program can be slightly flawed. My box is 1.08 cubic feet after all displacements are taken into account…

hi, i have been doing so searching and i see that some people use clay as a spacer and i am wondering 2 things. how well they work and the other being how do you do it. cuz i need 2" spacers on the cheap side and all i could think of on how to get the clay to work for me is use something like these http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...03+501959+90025 to give the clearance and then just fill in the space with clay and more then likely us fiberglass resin to make sure it is seal.

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

Ok I was looking at my trunk and if I want to make a 8 cubic foot box the only way I am going to be able to do it is make an odd shaped box ported, or do aeroports. I am just wondering how I would tune a 8 cubic foot box after displacement for 32 hz with aeroports. I am kinda new to these and I was looking at info on how to use them and I am just majorly confused.

alrighhtttyy guys.... i got a tricky build that i need some help with. I'm putting two SPL-15s in the trunk of a 01 chrysler sebring sedan. The subs are going to front firing and im just going to keep the back seats down (when i put them up for people to sit in them i will just cut the subs off). The trunk is pretty flat and the box should be pretty easy to load in from the car with the seats folded down. I have L29 x W34 x H18 to work with, Im guessing both subs will be put in one chamber. Im open to either slot or tube ports, just need help coming up with a design. All of the parameters are here. I appreciate it alot and please help a fellow forumer out =]

ok so i want to make a box with 1 15 in the middle and 2 poorts, 1 on each side, to get it how i wanted it ported, could i just measure out the space i would need for 1 port and just put half of that on each side?

heya... i would like to know how close can a sub(magnet) come the back side .... ..(if the sub is 10" ... can the depth of the box be 16 > or if the sub is 18" ... can the width be 19" ) ...can it effect the sound ..?

I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size…

hi, i planned to do a wall setup and the vehicle will be a 4-door Toyota Landcruiser. The wall will be as close as possible with the front seats but not up to compromising seating comfortably. How do you seal off the portion where there is window? i see that the front wall will be sitting halfway of the rear passenger door window. thanks

I'm going to build a truck-style enclosure for a Fi Bl10 with a 3'' aero. Dimensions are w: 38 h: 12 d1: 6 d2:8 This is 1.217ft^3 internally. After the bl10 displacement it comes out to roughly 1.1ft^3. When determining the port length, online calculators asks for: Volume of Box in Cubic Feet Tuning frequency Port diameter Number of Ports I want to end up with a tuning of somewhere around 33-35hz, depending on how long of a port will fit in my box. So...... Do I put …