SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Im thinking of wallin my truck (2000 gmc Sierra ext cab) and dropping another death penalty in there. But I have some questions. What is the best side for the body or dead center? Also would the area around it have to be completely sealed or can there be gaps along the sides behind a beauty panel? Do I double the port area? And will this affect sound quality?

When Calculating port length, How can you enter the box volume after port displacement, without knowing what the port length will be. Or do you put in what you want your box to be after the displacements and then design a box that takes this into account. For example, if you want a box to be 4.5 cuft. after displacements you would use this to calculate the port length. Then after you have that you would calculate the port displacement lets say is .5 , SO you would do .5 + 4.5 to get 5 cuft., then design a box that is five cuft before port displacement and use the port length that was calculated to get the desired tuning? If someone needs further explanation please ask. …

Okay, have done some reading around, and from what I'm seeing is that guys are getting good results in x-cab s-dimes with an up-firing sub/ side firing port design. So, I'm thinking I might give this a try. vehicle: 03 chev s-10 subwoofer: RE Audio SEx 15 (dual 4 ohm coils) Amplifier: JBL GTO 601 (600 watts @ 2 ohms) Looking at doing an enclosure out of .75" MDF Outside measurements: 15" height * 40" width * 16" depth Slot port: 14.5" wide * 3" high (port area of 43.5") * 23.5" long (tuning ~33.5 Hz) Net enclosure volume: 3.6 ft^3 Big question I have is, will 43.5" of port area be enough, or do I need more to prevent terrible port noise? Thanks for your opinions in advanc…

yes guys, as the title says's how in your opinion would you brace this box? here's a link since i can't post pics here: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/487885.html

Hello all, I have discovered I am going to have to build a new enclosure for my subwoofer to fit in the current vehicle I drive to work. The car is an early 80's sedan with a large but shallow(height) trunk and I do not really care if I have much space left over. I am pretty good at building things and have no problems making a pretty elaborate box, so my question is: In the trunk of a car like this what is the best enclosure to build without walling off the backseat? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Mr_Jones

My db drag partners ride this season 4- AUDIOPULSE 15'S, WALL 8- AMPS STRAPPED, 20,800 WATTS RMS 8- BATTERIES 2- ALTERNATORS= 510 AMPERS AND 300 INCHES OF PORT -Each amp at .5 ohms just like my sundowns (same wiring on the dual amp single woofer strap) -156 legal (156.4 later that night) with three out of 4 of the 15's on -amps have not been matched perfectly yet -woofers have not all broken in -wall still has not been sealed off -no deadening yet -batteries were uncharged

I want to build a box for my 2 12's. I want it to be ported but I'm having a really hard time finding a diagram or blue print. The recommended enclosure according to the website is .5 to 1 cu ft. Kinda confused as to what that means.

Alright, I am wanting to wait till i get a new vehicle to do a wall. (Still debating). I'd like to use two fifteens in my trunk, Thinking either AudioQue HDC3's, Fi BL's, or maybe some DC Level 4 XL's. A local shop said sealing a trunk on GM cars sounds like crap; Is this true? This would be the plan for my box Would this cause an audible noise or necessarily sound bad? I know it's install dependent but how do sealed trunks like THORSHAMMER's sound?

Needing recommendations on any and all used or heard systems with excellent SQ that have either personally blown you away or proved themselves in competition recently. Any info and opinion on the following are welcome with my proposed equipment in () Wiring thru KNU like always, damp pro like a pro, BIG 3, H/O alt if needed(pref not that much draw on a TL) and upgraded battery as install dictates. OEM integration - a must for this build sadly(360.2 by RF) sound processors (audio control, best model for needed corrections) component speakers - 2 sets F/B most likely fiberglassed to bring soundstage up (CDT, have loved every set I heard if installed right. Perfect for all s…

anyone?

This is going in an RX8. Looking for a fairly good ground pounder with the ability to upgrade to 4 SA8's in the near future. Not sure This design has enough port area. Don't do too many ported boxes and would like to make sure before I waste the time building. Will be powered by a Sundown 2000D. Link to pic of enclosure I had worked up.:

My guages in my car are digital LCD. They are a teal color now and I'd like to change them to green. Can this be accomplished?

Hi, I am just about to start my build in my explorer and I have a few questions. I will be running Phoenix gold rsd 6.5 components in the front doors, Soundstream pcs.6.5 3 ways in the back. I have a kicker zx650.4 now the question is what is the difference between active/passive? and do I have the option to do the better sounding one? Also the subwoofer box I will be building I want to put the port inbetween the 2 subs but I don't know how to calculate it that way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

How do you find or know your vehicles peak frequency? And how much high or lower than that should you tune you box for spl applications? I drive a 06 silverado extended cab.

Hi my name is Bosco Ruiz....and i bought 2 TEAM RF 12"...nowadays i dont have a box for those subs.....i need ur help I have a RAV4 2006 and the dimensions inside are. High 38" depth 32" width 34" do u have a picture of box for those subs?? what dimensions would be for my subs??

First off, hi...i just joined... I'm a complete audio noob... I'm looking to build a console/sub box for my 2007 Silverado... Its a reg cab with hardly any space behind the seats...so i want to take out my jump seat and build something... Here are the plans i sketched up... I basically want it to extend all the way to the dash... have a cup holder... and have the sub in the back, out of sight.... I will put a arm pad on top to rest my elbow... I'm not trying to beat this box out the frame or have a super loud setup.... I'm looking for looks/functionality/and bass to complete my setup...... Any criticism is appreciated....any thoughts or ideas let me know..... I don't k…

How much will having a bend in a round port affect tuning & sound? Not talkin like 90's, maybe a 30-45 at most. Is there a way to compensate for it w/ length or something or just trial & error? Bigger port maybe? ie 5" port 30 deg bend compared to 3" port with same bend?

Just wondering if 2 3in areo's would be enough port for two 8 in subs would be tuned to 31hz need input ASAP

Howdy SSA. Haven't been on here in forever. OK so I am looking to create an interchangeable port system for my box. Here is the layout of the box: (Feel free to steal the design) Playing around with my little box designing sheet, I thought about making a system where I can remove an appx 7 inch section of the port wall and insert some custom made plugs to lower the volume of the box. This would be just to switch things around. Now does anyone have an idea of how i can create a moveable port wall? I thought about a slide-in design (a hole cut in the top of the box that would let me slide the wall down in like a dam wall) or maybe a system of rails. I'm just looking for so…

VanEQWizard Background noise floor fluctuates from 65dB to 78dB... pretty bad when nothing is playing! I can read these pics off PC but not from the threads so: 5.22% 300Hz sounded so much louder than 200Hz yet it was so much quieter... that is why KW likes a U shaped FR curve, more and more exaggerated as you get further from the middle 1.97% 1.97% 1.42% .844% .937% .253 .235 .235 .402 .217 .576 .229 .270 .259 .376 .208 .672 idk what happened .0343 IDKY but dist stopped showing here. I was clicking it though. couldnt even hear 18,000 so i stopped after it

Can anyone design me a box for two 15 inch subwoofers? Two 15 inch SHOK minis. I can go 16 inches tall, 36 inches wide and 18 inches deep. These right here. Thanks in advanced.

Vehicle : 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS Location in the vehicle: Trunk with rear armrest access port Space available (Length x Width x Height): 22"x42"x16" Subwoofer make and model: SSA XCON 12 D1 Number of Subwoofers: 1 for now. Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Kerfed would be optimal, Slot if not kerf. What type of music do you like?: Electronic, Drum n Bass, Classic Rock, Alternative, Rap, Hip-Hop, R&B. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Music geared towards SQ Tuning Freq (Hz): 28-30 or so Volume : 2.5-3.0 Questions: 1. I plan on only giving about 600-1200w by a Crescendo BC2000D, should I have the volume of the box be closer to 3.0 to maximize effici…

this box im making for my ta is a PITA. having to make all sorts of corners and angles to utilize every inch of space in my well. coming along good so far, i've got the bottom half done, and im coming to where it angles and comes to the top of the box. how do i go about screwing in the angle? do i just countersink it further in on the outside of the box, so it doesnt poke out under the carpet, and put the screw in at the same angle as the wood?

I'm looking for someone whos got a TL anywhere in wisconsin or near illinois border.

I have a non wall box for a 21 warden going in a 2 door blazer, I have two boxes saved as a design right now. Both are about 8cu after all displacements and have 120-130sq in of port. The box is set up for sub up port back. My question is, would having the port on the side vertically facing the hatch make any much difference then if the port was on the bottom running length wise horizontally facing the hatch. I know each vehicle is diff and theres no telling whats better, but figured maybe the way the air moved would be diff or somthing. Thanks for any help