SPL & SQ / Fabrication

The Effects of Cabin Gain in Car Audio Have you ever wondered why car audio systems can have so much bass as compared to a home stereo system? The reason has to do with space. Your home has a lot of it and your car audio system doesn't. Because there is so little space in a car the bass notes (which are long waves) build up inside the passenger area. To calculate the length of a sound wave you divide the speed of sound (in feet per second) by the frequency. At sea level, the speed of sound is approximately 1,127 ft/sec. For example, a 40 Hz note has a wavelength of approximately 28 ft (at sea level). (speed of sound)/(frequency) = wavelength OR (1,127 ft/sec)/(40Hz) = 28.…

Hi everyone, My name is Paul Mocan, and i am from Cluj-Napoca, Romania. Adrian_D is a good friend of mine, and one day we decided to transform my 20 year old Volvo 340, in a SPL car... here is what happend. We started with adding a second battery behind the passanger seet, and complettly removed the rear seats. We made a box design with 2 ports, one for SPL and one for music. My car was a wreck. I had oil and watter dripping out of it, but it was a crowd gatherer. I'll come back with some pictures...

I'm assuming if i had one of those woofer testers to pull the T/S parameters of a speaker, it would pull different specs if i took a single DVC subwoofer and tested it wired in series, then tested it again in parallel. Well, i dont have one so i'm gonna rely on those experienced here to relay some info to me. I will be using 4 subwoofers, 2 subwoofers per amp. Each pair of subs are dual 1 ohm. I have 2 ways of wiring this- 1 - Parallel both subs then series them to the amp 2 - Series both subs then parallel them to the amp Is there a difference in SPL potential between the 2? this info is pertaining to a meter, not the ear. I notice when looking at specs of subs, in gener…

if any of you guys can give me an idea of what type of box works best for an early 90's cavalier station wagon id appreciate it, im a trunk guy and dont really know what works best in that type of vehicle, aside from a wall what do you guys suggest? the box will house 2 DD9512's dual 1.5 ohm subs and be powered by a single earthquake d10.

any one with a 2.2-3.0 cu./ft speaker enclosure for sale. it is needed to house a single 12" bl tuned to 32 hz. o fit in trunk of 2006 ford focus zx4. also if no on that then i need a box for two 12's for trunk of same car with same speakers 12" bl fi loaded.......G

due to the complexity of the sides of my box, its going to be kind of hard to build a slot port on the top of the box. i was thinking, instead of a slot port, should i do like 4 6" aero's? (or whatever i need to get the right amount of port area) which leads me to my questions. -if you have 200 (example) sq in of port area, with a slot port, if you switch to aeros, do you still need a ton of aero's to get 200 sq in? or does less aeros equal out to the larger port area of a slot port? -aero ports in a wall. how will this work? i know one con is i dont get the natural bracing a slot port would provide, but ill deal with that, and add some extra bracing. -difference in sound…

Plan on running a pair of M1a's strapped @ 2 ohms for daily/bassrace, and @ 0.5 ohm for burps. Just under 3 cubic feet tuned @ 38hz 72.5 sq in. of port Does it look adequate?

I have 2 sd1v2 10" running on a 1000d. I like the sd1v2s and all but want a little more. Anyone experienced Kicker CVTs. If so will they hit harder than these sundowns? The sd1v2s are sq's, are the CVT's straight SPLs?

I understand that if you have the same setup you need to double your wattage each time to get 3 db louder. My question is when you get up to say 4kw and you have to double it to 8kw to get 3 db louder is there a significant difference in loudness? Is it the same audible difference than say the same setup at 200 rms is doubled to 400 rms.

ok heres the deal. i my box is sub and port same direction as of now i have them firing port up sub up. and there is around 4 inchs space before the trunk lid, and i am scoring a 148. i think i maybe able to squeeze the box in sub back port back.. but i will only have 2 or 3 inchs between the subs and port and wall of my trunk. if i change it up now.. and lose my score then im fucked for this weekend. i have talked with another town car SPL guy. and he stated, in all his testing center port back. he lost 3 DB. from having port on one side, and lost .5 db's on the dash (meca) with sub up port up i guess my short question is.. and at this point its just a g…

The vehicle is an '89 mustang (hatch). Im wanting to keep the enclosure at right around 10 cubes to keep my imp rise at about one ohm but want a different port placement. it is possible that this may just be a wall but im looking for the best gains, what should i do? the build is with four FI SSd 12's thanks guise.

im would like to know if port are is THAT important. freind of mine has a BL 12, he wants to buy a box that another friend built, but the port area is under 12 sq inches per cube. the sub that was in the box before sounded pretty good. just wondering if the port are being a lil small is restricting output or SQ in any noticeable way. its off by like 8 sq inches. thanks

I just purchased a SSA Xcon 10 and will be putting it in my 350z. My question is.. Would a premade enclosure from "Zenclosures.com" be fine for it? Heres the link to the enclosure http://www.zenclosures.com/Nissan-350Z-Subwoofer-Box-p/z110ar.htm Any input would be greatly appreciated! Kyle

well i got the expo to wang finally. its go the 4 PG 15's and about 3 grand in watts for the subs and the windshield wipers are now jumpin off the window and it feels liek your in a wind tunnel. I smile every time i get in it and blow my ear drums out with it. what? huh ? what??? dude i cant hear you speak up. Slayer sounds really good in it too. but i gotta love jammin some ying yang too. it will be at the march 27th import life tour at COBO hall in detroit. so if you can, be sure you guys get out there to check it out. Its ugly but it wangs. Im working on the fiberglass install still the guy that was going to do it went out of business. so theres a new cat gonna make…

Hello, At the moment, I have 2 Kenwood 12's (4 Ohms, 400rms) in separate ported enclosures that I built. It was my first time building a sub enclosure, and I don't think I did it right. I have an alpine MRP-M500 amp running at 300wrms at 4ohms. I listen to rap, and when I play a song that goes really low (Put on- jeezy for example) the lowest note is really quiet. I'm assuming its a combination of the wrong box specs and them being underpowered? I'm planning on getting a new system in a couple months, but until then, I'd like to fix my current one and in the process, I'd be getting another box build under my belt to practice for my next one. My goal is to make it louder,…

im getting my system installed next week. Am i going to get bored of it after a while? Will it not seem as loud as it was when i first put it in because i got used to it? I am going to run 1500 watts rms. i have a sundown sae 1200d, 12in fi bl fully loaded, 0 gauge amp kit, and im going to do the big 3 upgrade. This is all going in a 2010 maxima

im going to have two FI BL 15s and i want a good enclosure. my max dimensions are 50 inches in width, 28 inches in height, and 25 inches in depth, and i kinda wanted a design plan such as the port dimensions and should i go double or single baffle?

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for ""SQL&a…

Ok i'll prolly do this some time this week or next week. But basicly to put that port in the deck like you guys where saying i would just have to find the total Cu. ft of the whole box. And plug my information into this handy dandy online calculator. http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 and i should be fine right? not tuning this thing is gonna be hard as hell.lol I already know the length is gonna be like 40in long. but i can make it smaller if need be. And i'm gonna guess and say about 17cu ft. only thing is since its a daily driver and i want to use it for comps, how can i tune it? I mean 45 sounds like a good start, but for daily i dont want it that high, …

ok so i really dont trust most of the box calcs. online so i've been researching formulas and anything i need to know about designing on my own. so anyone with advice please put in your two cents..... tell me if i got this much figured out: 1). to come up with the ft^3 of the box you multiply length x width x height using the inner dimensions. then take the total of that and divide by 1728 which is the in^3 of 1 cubic ft. 2). then to factor in port, bracing, and driver displacement you use the L x W x H on each item and subtract it from the ft^3 3). for box's with a slanted front. for example the top is 5" and the bottom is 15" you find the average of them by adding them…

I'm currently thinking about building a box for a 12 btl with both the sub and the port aimed into the cabin, sealing off the trunk from the cabin. I have looked at tons of boxes doing this but they all port on either the right or left side of the box. I often have 4 people in my car so this would mean the seats would have to remain up giving the port very little room to breath. My middle seat has an arm rest that comes down and my idea was to have the box port right there so that i can just put the arm rest down and give the port a place to breath. My question is can i port the box in the middle and place the sub to either the right or left of the port. I don't have a i…

Wonderin whats.better for 4 12 sa's d4.They will be going in a 99 crownvic.thank u in advance

I started my base mold about a week ago, and popped it out after the second layer. Right now im on my fourth layer for the base, and it seems to be getting really stiff. Probably going to end up doing 2 more layers. I have a question though, does fiberglassing polyiester rope to the inside of the box help stiffen it up? i thought I read about that on here but im not sure.

Know that my 270A alternator has been ordered I'll be ordering a second FI BL 15 for my car. I was wanting to get you thought on this parameters

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