SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey guys, I have been into car audio for about 5 years now and I believe I am fully ready to to do what I would consider a high end setup. I currently have a 2002 Hyundai XG350L with my 2 mtx 4500's, alpine amp, and rockford fosgate p1 components and 2 ways in the rear deck, with a P300.2 powering them. I am getting ready to move into my parents new house within the next month and will have a full size garage to work in. This will give me the place to let my mind expand and come up with ideas. I have been looking around at some new subs, I Have a couple of ideas in mind but am open to any suggestions as I havn't heard any system bigger then 2 cvx's on a JL 1000. I a…

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I just copped 2 new 15" Alpine "Hype"-Rs for $200. Wanna play around with them & just see what all they can do. Ive always wanted to just see what they sound like cause I NEVER have. Ive been told the lows suck for the R so what kind of box could help put for that? 7cuft box tuned to 34 or 35hz? P.S. NOT my daily subs...

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for ""SQL&a…

what would you guys prefer to use to smooth out the corners inside a box, putty or bondo, (and which brand) I might grab some resin and hardener for my RL-p box, I want it perfect before the RL-p goes in, I shold probably do some more internal bracing to make it as stiff as possible to preserve as mush SQ as possible

I started my base mold about a week ago, and popped it out after the second layer. Right now im on my fourth layer for the base, and it seems to be getting really stiff. Probably going to end up doing 2 more layers. I have a question though, does fiberglassing polyiester rope to the inside of the box help stiffen it up? i thought I read about that on here but im not sure.

well just picked up a 18 btl just wondering what everybody on here suggest for a box all opinions welcome. Will be running a hifonics cyclops xxv for power. thanks in advance.

Does anyone in the eastern North Carolina area make kickpods or know someone who does? I'm not terribly skilled with fiberglass.

I'm about to start building me a new box and I was thinking of bracing it like this 2x4's & 1.5" dowel rod What do you guys think?

So i built a 4.6cf box, tuned to 32 hz for a DCON 15. This is a big box. (at least for me) So I braced it very well. Is there anything else that should be done? Should anything be put inside the box? Like Dynomat, acustastuff? etc... Thanks, Duane

This guy is nuts. Many of you have probably already seen this but it was my first time coming across it... Dodge Sprinter

Well I'm trying to plan a fiberglass build for my twin 12" jl w6v2's that will be going in my WRX (sedan). I've asked around to get suggestions on how to go about the design, but noone seems to be able to help me with my question?? I know with a regular box your kind of limited to either just facing your subs straight back or straight foward... straight back, pushed up against the backseat usualy being "as good as your going to get" as far as cabain gain goes. What I've been trying to find out is, since sub orientation is just about limitless with fiberglass, what orientation will yield me the best possible cabin gain and sound in my trunk? Like facing the subs towar…

Went to competition today out in South West Fort Worth.(Whole new world to me.) Got my single 12" SS SPLX back so I decided to strap both Sundowns to it for 0.5 ohm per amp and let her rip. On my Kinetik with almost no charge last night I did a 151.3 in a 60Hz SPL box. 2.5 cubic foot box tuned to 60Hz with 2 4" aero ports 6 inches long with 1 coat of fiberglass resin on the inside, and the master amp at 1/2 gain. Will post up a pic of the setup and score as soon as I get them uploaded.

I am working on my plans for my box and would it be acceptable to cut a hole for a round port and have the port extrude from the box some distance? The Box is 3.5 cubes or so tuning to i hope 32 Hz for a 15. Could it be outside to get more airspace?

I plan on competing SQ this year. I'm not sure on what pics I need for the presentation. Can somone give me some tips to get me started? Thanks

Hey, this is what i got: 1x pioneer sub ts-w3002d4 @2ohms=1000rms QCA3500D amp; 2ohm=1750watts rms enclosure: 20"x16"x13" port size: 2"x11.5" everything on my car is stock and i think my amp is putting out a little less than what is rated performance wise, i dont think that my sub is performing like it should, my excursion is nothing compared to what I see on you tube and im not sure if it is because of my enclosure. I know that I can get better power if i upgrade wiring but I think I should be getting more out of what I already have. I want to try a different box, does anyone have any suggestions on sizez and I dont know much about tuning but im not getting high end …

I found a sweet deal I just picked up a killer old school soundstream Rubicon 1002. The blue one. It does 250x2@4 underrated, and 1000x1 at 4 ohm and 2. Will be PLENTY of power for the old front stage. And just a all around sweet amp And I've seen them sell for $250+. I got it for $85... nice...

whats the max dimensions that will fit through a trunk of a mustang trunk opening... wiered ass trunks

So I just bought a single Nightshade 15 for the trunk of my 2007 300C. I'm just gonna figure out what works best for the box so as to not block my spare. I was considering porting a box towards the back seats, with the sub inverted on the back of the box (so you can see it when you open the trunk). Any problems doing this? Having the sub inverted would let me fit the box more tightly towards the seats in my opinion, but I'm new to box building. Thanks for any help

Birch is looking a lot better than MDF atleast in Miami humidity for a 2002 Chevy Avalanche midgate enclosure. But I need help on the best specs to get the most out of 2 Nightshade 15's sub box. I'm going to coat it with spray on Truck bed liner to protect it. Sundown recommends a 2^3 enclosure but I just wanted any tips and the best layout that's worked for you all.

a. Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size: Dual SA-10's b. Amplifier being used, specifically the model number: 1200 watt Hifonics Brutus (will probably end up upgrading it to a 2000) c. Fabrication skill level: will be made by a box builder d. Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc): mdf e. Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in: 93 toyota celica f. Musical preferences: rap g. System goals: SPL all the way h. 37 Hz range i. max dimensions: 38 length x 20 width x 16 in height

So my brother keeps telling me that even if i port my box that it will have no effect on how loud it will be, because it is in a trunk and that the only way i will tell teh diffrence is if i have a suv or fold down seats I know this is not true, but to an extent it kinda makes since

trying to decide on 2 different setups and basically, if you like loud (40hz area) but also don't wanna lose that low rumble in the 29-32hz area, what setup would be ideal? all ran off of a 5,000w amp 3 12" Fi Qs(BP option mandatory) Sealed in 4 cubes. 3 10" AQ-HDC3s ported at 37hz. I know that the 10s are louder but i have never done a setup of this magnitude and am wanting to know really, for someone who may have done something this loud before, what is your opinion on this? I know the sealed setup, i can get my lows just fine, will not be as loud as the 10s but is it gonna be very noticeable? Basically, i can give you a scenario- If i set SSF to let's say to start roll…

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

I need help with designing an aero port enclosure. This is my first attempt. I am looking for 2.5 net and tuning 32hz, With corner bracing. I would appreciate all help I can get! Thanks.