SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Posted this on *** as thats where I found a box design I'm interesed in, but thought I'd ask here too asn see what you aLL THINK... I want to redo my system AGAIN and I'm slowly stackin parts to get it all ready... I have most of the wiring (RCAs, lots of 0/1, 4 and 8 ga wire, tons of connecters, etc ) most of the major stuff (I have 2 sets of RE XXX Componets, the 4 12" RE XXX D2s older style, 1 SAZ-2000D, buying 3 more and I guess I need 2 SAX-125.2s for my Mids and Tweets), now my biggest problem is how to fit it all and make it all look cool.. Again the ride is a 2000 S-10 Blazer and like I said I want to put in 4 12" XXX D2s in a vented enclosure for ""SQL&a…

I'm about to start building me a new box and I was thinking of bracing it like this 2x4's & 1.5" dowel rod What do you guys think?

Where I work we have this non-flexible polymer composite called synthane and it comes in 4X8X3/4 sheets. Now I was wondering if this woould work for a box? I mean in theory it should, its dense and non flexible. I was just wondering if anyone has ever head of this material. I highly doubt its ever been used as in a box, I would imagine its very expensive.

Wonderin whats.better for 4 12 sa's d4.They will be going in a 99 crownvic.thank u in advance

Hey, this is what i got: 1x pioneer sub ts-w3002d4 @2ohms=1000rms QCA3500D amp; 2ohm=1750watts rms enclosure: 20"x16"x13" port size: 2"x11.5" everything on my car is stock and i think my amp is putting out a little less than what is rated performance wise, i dont think that my sub is performing like it should, my excursion is nothing compared to what I see on you tube and im not sure if it is because of my enclosure. I know that I can get better power if i upgrade wiring but I think I should be getting more out of what I already have. I want to try a different box, does anyone have any suggestions on sizez and I dont know much about tuning but im not getting high end …

Okay I am looking for some help in this forum because I am loosing hair over this. I currently have a system in my ride and it is progress though. Eclipse CD 5030 ARC AUDIO KS 300.2 MOREL DOTECH OVATION 6 ARC AUDIO KS 500.1 MINI DIAMOND AUDIO D3 15 Now first things first the KS 300.2 is powering the components at 180 x 2 @ 4 ohms The KS 500.1 Mini [500 x 1 @ 2 ohm] is powering the Diamond Audio D3 15 [1.75 sealed enclosure]. Anyways looking to swap out the Diamond Audio D3 for a Fi Audio sub most likely the SSD 15. I was told to get a single dual 1 ohm sub and wire it in series to make it a 2 ohm sub. Anyways I have a pair of Selenium 6 Midwoofers that are 8 ohm and mo…

what would you guys prefer to use to smooth out the corners inside a box, putty or bondo, (and which brand) I might grab some resin and hardener for my RL-p box, I want it perfect before the RL-p goes in, I shold probably do some more internal bracing to make it as stiff as possible to preserve as mush SQ as possible

Hi, I am just about to start my build in my explorer and I have a few questions. I will be running Phoenix gold rsd 6.5 components in the front doors, Soundstream pcs.6.5 3 ways in the back. I have a kicker zx650.4 now the question is what is the difference between active/passive? and do I have the option to do the better sounding one? Also the subwoofer box I will be building I want to put the port inbetween the 2 subs but I don't know how to calculate it that way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Ill have a FI 18 Q here tomarrow , it calls for 6 to 10 cuft box . I have a 94 gmc sonoma ext cab , there will be no back seats . Ill mounts the amps in the back of the seats and one on the roof for the 32 clarion i have ( going in the bed ) . Ive measured out the the box to take up the back 53/23/25 and it comes out to 17 + cuft . What will be the con's or pro's of a box bigger than called for ?

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

Went to competition today out in South West Fort Worth.(Whole new world to me.) Got my single 12" SS SPLX back so I decided to strap both Sundowns to it for 0.5 ohm per amp and let her rip. On my Kinetik with almost no charge last night I did a 151.3 in a 60Hz SPL box. 2.5 cubic foot box tuned to 60Hz with 2 4" aero ports 6 inches long with 1 coat of fiberglass resin on the inside, and the master amp at 1/2 gain. Will post up a pic of the setup and score as soon as I get them uploaded.

Okay so I am new to this. I am going to be building this in the near future and the hard part is that it's for a regular cab short box s-10 pickup. I do not know if i should go with a "blowout or just put a topor on the truck and put the sub in the back under that. My plan is to run a 2 F.I B.T.L 15" To a Audio Que 3500 H.D Running 1 ohm Power @ 18V** @ 10% THD 7500W x 1. I am trying to find a descent sub box to make up for this. And i have a couple ?'s Like i said i am new to this so am i going to need to push some more power to these beast's or is this going to be enough i mean i want something that is going to wake you up not put you to sleep. Am i going to have to d…

Im pretty sure Ive seen this before. wondering how the port length is calculated. say the port opening is 3.75x13, Id assume when it splits Id make each continuance of the port 1.875x13. do I measure the length of the first part before it splits, and add to it the length of the part after the split to get the overall length. do I calculate the length as if I were running 2 1.875x13 ports, or a single 3.75x13 port. with the box volume and tuning I was using, they were very similar, 29.6 for one and 28.92 for the other scenario, so either one would end up close enough, but Id like the know the correct way. if either of these are correct.

I understand that if you have the same setup you need to double your wattage each time to get 3 db louder. My question is when you get up to say 4kw and you have to double it to 8kw to get 3 db louder is there a significant difference in loudness? Is it the same audible difference than say the same setup at 200 rms is doubled to 400 rms.

yes guys, as the title says's how in your opinion would you brace this box? here's a link since i can't post pics here: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/4/487885.html

Uh its me again this time instead of an extreme i need a box for a kicker comp 12inch 4 ohm sub that will be going in the back of my explorer i have tried my best with the messurements but i am new to this it is 38'' inches tall, 42'' inches wide, and 38 inches long it's not the best sub in the world so the demenions do not have to be perfect just a simple design would work for me........ just send me a message on here....... if you can.......

currently i have a 2.5cuft box tuned around 33hz with a 1300.1 percision power amp running at 1 ohm. i have just installed a pair of polk components in the front with a powerbass 2ch giving each side about 100rms. so now the sub isnt the main part of my system like it was before when i only had 30rms to the front doors that would get un audible when the sub hit. the idea for the new box is about 4cuft tuned around 28hz or so. my biggest question is how big should my port be? what are the advantages of 12" vs 16" per cube? would 12" be more snappy vs a 16" which would move more air? currently the box is directly behind the drivers seat with the sub and port facing the dr…

Hello, At the moment, I have 2 Kenwood 12's (4 Ohms, 400rms) in separate ported enclosures that I built. It was my first time building a sub enclosure, and I don't think I did it right. I have an alpine MRP-M500 amp running at 300wrms at 4ohms. I listen to rap, and when I play a song that goes really low (Put on- jeezy for example) the lowest note is really quiet. I'm assuming its a combination of the wrong box specs and them being underpowered? I'm planning on getting a new system in a couple months, but until then, I'd like to fix my current one and in the process, I'd be getting another box build under my belt to practice for my next one. My goal is to make it louder,…

I recently bought 2 RE AUDIO SXX 12" woofers and plan to build the enclosure (vented) by myself (first time in my life). Since the manufactorer's web site only provides a box calculator for one woofer, can somebody kindly give me some advice on dual woofer enclosure and port measurement? In order for the box to fit in the trunck, the size constraints are: Length < 35", Height < 16.5". I prefer SQ over SPL and hope the bass hit as hard as they can. Thanks so much! The T/S parameters are listed below and more info. can be found on http://www.reaudio.com/woofers.php#goto_sxx Qes: 0.32 (Electrical Q value) Qms: 4.4 (Mechanical Q value) Qts: 0.30 (Total Speaker Q value)…

guess i am looking to do a 1.5 tuned to 34 hz with the sub pointing up. I have a 4" aero port that i would like to use. i would like to keep the depth at about 15" if possible. any help would be great.

I have a 4 cubic foot box that i would like to install two 4" pvc ports in... How do i go about figuring it out?

im getting my system installed next week. Am i going to get bored of it after a while? Will it not seem as loud as it was when i first put it in because i got used to it? I am going to run 1500 watts rms. i have a sundown sae 1200d, 12in fi bl fully loaded, 0 gauge amp kit, and im going to do the big 3 upgrade. This is all going in a 2010 maxima

Well I'm trying to plan a fiberglass build for my twin 12" jl w6v2's that will be going in my WRX (sedan). I've asked around to get suggestions on how to go about the design, but noone seems to be able to help me with my question?? I know with a regular box your kind of limited to either just facing your subs straight back or straight foward... straight back, pushed up against the backseat usualy being "as good as your going to get" as far as cabain gain goes. What I've been trying to find out is, since sub orientation is just about limitless with fiberglass, what orientation will yield me the best possible cabin gain and sound in my trunk? Like facing the subs towar…

Okay so i'm planning on having a box built for 2 12"s and having the subs face the roof (see pic) I'm wondering if I have a top piece of wood above the subs, how that would affect the sound? The top piece of wood would be above the subs by a couple inches. This would allow me to put stuff on my box for storage (ex: my backpack...) Does this make sense?

Can someone help me design a slot port box? Hopefully This Is All The Info You Need 1. Car. Year, Make, Model: 2008 Scion XB 2. Subs. Make, Model, Size, How many: Sundown SA-15 (4) 3. Power. How much power per sub: Crescendo BC22000 4. Goal. SPL or SQ: SPL Tuning Feq: 32hz 5. Sealed or ported: Ported 6. Sub/port placement: Sub Up Port Back 7. Max dimensions: H:33 W:36 D:54 8. Dimensions I Wanna Work With: H:20 W:36 D:46