SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok. I have a 01 Ford F-250, Crew cab. I've been doing a lot of reading since my last thread. Got a better idea of what I want. I just need help deciding which route to take. First, I want a good staging and imaging. At first I didn't really care about this, but now I almost can't listen to my setup now because I can hear each speaker individually. Its really driving me crazy. As far as having a perfect reproducing of the recording, meh, I don't care so much about that. I don't want it way offf, but I want my tastes. Also, for step one I won't have a processor, I will eventually, and I'm sure I won't be able to dial everything in until, but I think I can live with it. Op…

Hi, I am trying to decide between 2 icon 12"s or 1 icon 15" I will be powering with a taramp HD3000.1 around 1500RMS. I am trying to keep my box size down. On the 15" it gives a 3 cu ft ported box, and a 4 cu ft ported box. How much difference in SQ and performance would I see if I used the 3 cu ft vs the 4? also Could I maybe split the difference? 3.5 cu ft? I can do 4, just was hoping I could make it a little smaller. I don't know if I am going to have the room for 2 12"s so that's why I was thinking of one 15" but would I be better off SQ wise to do 2 12"s? Thanks!

anyone ever used this box calculator before? box calculator im having trouble figuring out the port as on my cut sheet it says on a 30x17x9.5 box= 2.05 cubes. tuned to 32.34 hz that my top/bottom port is a 2"x 1.65" cut? i just dont understand this, as this number seems way too small to be an actual port. it is a 3 common wall port as well. any help would be greatly appreciated!

Vehicle : 88 Corolla FX Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): 38x18ishx16ish Subwoofer make and model: Not sure Subwoofer Size: 6.5 or 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 or 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): T-line What type of music do you like?: Rock country rap dubstep electronic etc Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Musical.."SQL" Tuning Freq (Hz): Not sure Volume : Not sure Questions: Been reading and watching videos on T-line boxes over the last week and im really wanting to try one now with either 2 6.5s or 1 12. Currently have 1 american bass xr12 on a r…

Well I've been messin around with WinISD for the past hour, converting units to metric and back again, etc. All I can say is, I'm completely lost. In case you haven't read any of my other posts, here's my equipment: (1) 18" Fi BTL N2 (1) AQ2200D (1) XS Power D1200 Those are the only things I have purchased so far. Right now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do about the box. I think I'm gonna go with a slot ported box, tuned in the upper 30s/lower 40s. Only problem is, the process of designing a box that won't sound like shit is a tough task that is starting to become overwhelming. First question: How do you know what size box to put into a calculator such as this o…

I will be building some custom tweeter pods for my new Morel tweeters that are coming, I was wondering if someone with a lot of experience can tell me some of the better directions to aim them. I'm looking for good staging, and good response. Any help will be much appreciated.

EVERY MEMBER HERE IS ENTITLED TO A 40% DISCOUNT OF LISTED PRICES, JUST DROP ME A LINE AND LET ME KNOW WHAT YOU WANT, KYLE WWW.SECONDSKINAUDIO.COM

Why 5000 RMS On Amplifier 2 T20001 Isn

What makes this enclosure perform any better than a normal forth order enclosure? Or this old style. Just a forth order bandpass?

My dash is pretty much completed. It's built to be very flat from a-pillar to a-pillar with no erratic or uncontrollable reflections. I have some ensolite ready to apply but need to consider an aesthetically pleasing way of covering it. I have considered a few different materials.... Vinyl - I would love to wrap it in vinyl, but that would do nothing as far as taming reflections. Suede - Not bad for managing reflections and certain kinds are permeable, but good suede is expensive and looks like crap as soon as it's touched. Tweed - Permeable and manages reflections well, but ugly as all sin, in my opinion. Any thoughts on a good covering material?

Freeking Sweeeeeeeeeeeet Show... enuff of me yacking now for the pics I blew the cone off the sub in the first run and still pulled off a 149.2db with 1 SoundStream T4 15 / 1 blown - 2x SAZ 1500ds strapped sub killer was @ 1.1ohm wired other sub to 0.7ohm added the NSB battery ran out of Sundown brochures really fast : Jacob please send more !!! was way short on info for the mobb...eagger to get a SD amp... took my class... 2x 1place trophys

Does anyone have any ideas of box designs for two 18'' xcons or two Fi bti subs in a Explorer behind the rear seats since I cant build a wall?

Hey guys, I am in the talks with Steve, the owner of subthump.com. They make some of the best sealed prefabbed boxes I have ever dealt with. They are simply amazing, the prices are budget friendly. Their main focus are on sealed boxes, because they aim at the people who are on a budget and they can mass produce. So I have been throwing emails back and forth and emphazised how much pupularity there is out there for the Sundown Audio SA8's. Now we all know these things shine better in ported boxes. My box building days are over and subthump is nortorious for squeezing out as much air space and the deepest depth for subwoofers. Here is my first subthump box. Ran this box in…

I want to use 2 6" or 1 8" for my next box since it will allow me to tune lower and also give me more internal space using the same dimensions. But on the face of the box I can't actually use a flare like the one Adrian has or the ones that partexpress sells, because it won't fit. Now can I use a round over bit on the port opening of the wood to make it a flare? Pic below is how I made a box for 4 15s and I had 4 6" pvc pipes. It's double baffled. The front baffle was used as .75" of the port length since the pvc didn't go all the way out of the box. It only went into the inner baffle. So can I use a round over bit to make the outer baffle a flare by using the bit? I'm no…

what do you guys think about the new rules and how it will effect this up coming season?

My question is in regards to enclosures. Mostly the relationship between net volume and port area. From the little research I've done. High port area combined with small volume net will yield a very narrow bandwith but with most SPL.But, if you increase net volume, combined with high port area, you will increase SPL while sustaining a wide bandwith.So what I am thinking is. As an example. If I only had 1000watts to a 3000watt subwoofer, 180cuin would be too much port area because I do not have adequate power to displace as much air as I would if I had 5000 watts. Is this way of thinking correct? Like, hard to convey what I'm thinking via typing. But, I guess what I'm s…

So I been looking on here and reading about fiberglass and my ? Is what is every body talking about when they say they mix there fiberglass with sand...or is sand another term for something else like I say Mud when I'm mixing autozone fiberglass hardener because it looks like mud to me....main reason is I want to and a couple layers to the inside of my subwoofer box with some good fiberglass or would the stuff at Walmart or home depot be good enough....

Would using the SSA Icon 15" small ported design work for my BL? Icon 15" small ported design How would i go about changing the tuning to 33-35 Hz?

Hi, I need help with a spl box in a sedan. My car in a Acura cl 97 the seats do not let down but there is a 7 by 10 hole where the arm rest lets down. My subwoofer is a T3 audio tss 15 with one Sundown a Audio saz3000d pushing it. What is the best setup, sub firing to the back with port to the back, maybe sub firing up with port to the rear. I'm 39 years old an have been out of spl for years but I miss all the fun. I donot want to be in the way at shows so can you guys help my with a design that may work.The car will be use for spl music.Thanks for any help.

What type of design would this be considered? Would it have any disadvantages to a regular ported enclosure? Drivers would be mounted during the enclosure being built. Is there any negative effects by having the drivers facing each other? any cancellation? What would be a good distance to have between the opposing cones? The more the better? Thanks

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

This is what I have right now Most of these number where pulled from another Tahoe build to give me a base. Ok now I just messed around with the port length until I got the tuning I wanted (33-35). I don't really get how it is longer than the box? This my first box design and is a temp. box for me to use about a month or so. Sub will be powered by a Cresendo 2k at .5 or 2ohm depending on voltage gain All the way down, and I'm going to take it easy. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

I just had me a crazy Idea just wanted to get some feedback on what you guys think. I have a 95 eclipse that i have been contemplating on how to build this thing. Then it hit me, why not fiberglass a 10 in each door panel and flush mount the amp there as well. Tell me what you think.

looking for some ideas for my 18's

Ok so I purchased 3 SA-10s off someone on here and should get them within a week. I really wanted to build a box with a port because lots have said SA-10s really shine ported.. but i wasnt so good at figuring out all the math for the port and even worse we sucked at knowing how to build it good.. ( first box ported we made really ) So I have been looking at these circular ports like tubes you add as the port and it seems much simpler to me.. if I understand it correctly and I tried to use 12volt.com to help me figure out port length and size and stuff.. So could someone explain to me how you build a port with the circular tubing or aero whatever it is i guess? is it serio…