SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Freeking Sweeeeeeeeeeeet Show... enuff of me yacking now for the pics I blew the cone off the sub in the first run and still pulled off a 149.2db with 1 SoundStream T4 15 / 1 blown - 2x SAZ 1500ds strapped sub killer was @ 1.1ohm wired other sub to 0.7ohm added the NSB battery ran out of Sundown brochures really fast : Jacob please send more !!! was way short on info for the mobb...eagger to get a SD amp... took my class... 2x 1place trophys

Ok so I purchased 3 SA-10s off someone on here and should get them within a week. I really wanted to build a box with a port because lots have said SA-10s really shine ported.. but i wasnt so good at figuring out all the math for the port and even worse we sucked at knowing how to build it good.. ( first box ported we made really ) So I have been looking at these circular ports like tubes you add as the port and it seems much simpler to me.. if I understand it correctly and I tried to use 12volt.com to help me figure out port length and size and stuff.. So could someone explain to me how you build a port with the circular tubing or aero whatever it is i guess? is it serio…

Vehicle : 88 Corolla FX Location in the vehicle: Hatch Space available (Length x Width x Height): 38x18ishx16ish Subwoofer make and model: Not sure Subwoofer Size: 6.5 or 12 Number of Subwoofers: 1 or 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): T-line What type of music do you like?: Rock country rap dubstep electronic etc Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Musical.."SQL" Tuning Freq (Hz): Not sure Volume : Not sure Questions: Been reading and watching videos on T-line boxes over the last week and im really wanting to try one now with either 2 6.5s or 1 12. Currently have 1 american bass xr12 on a r…

My question is in regards to enclosures. Mostly the relationship between net volume and port area. From the little research I've done. High port area combined with small volume net will yield a very narrow bandwith but with most SPL.But, if you increase net volume, combined with high port area, you will increase SPL while sustaining a wide bandwith.So what I am thinking is. As an example. If I only had 1000watts to a 3000watt subwoofer, 180cuin would be too much port area because I do not have adequate power to displace as much air as I would if I had 5000 watts. Is this way of thinking correct? Like, hard to convey what I'm thinking via typing. But, I guess what I'm s…

Hi guys im new at this and was wondering if i could get the usual help you guys give others ohh and thanks in advance. I got this system i got two performance teknique amps one is a 2000 watts 2 ch and the other is a 1600 watts one i got two kikker subwoofers 12" double coil 800watts each anda7" lcd screen and an alpine 9851 model radio plus the 7 channel pre amp and the profile crossover ok said that. Now i got everything installed correctly i even bought an extra gel 800 optima battery and a 1.5 capacitor digital now the problem is that of a scale from 1 to 10 i have to have the subwoofers volume down in like 3 cause my subwoofers amp keeps going ofthen have to turn …

i measured from the subs to where the mic go's and got 7' give or take an inch. so 7'x4=28' gives me the 1/4 wave devide 1131 the speed of sound by 28'= 40.39Hz so i port to 30.39Hz - with cabin gain should peek @ 40.39Hz but what about the ports fireing 90degrees out of faze, ??? subs are pointed forward into the back of the seat & the ports are fireing up along the back window line. i drive a 1988' Ford F-150 x-cab

Well ive decided since i still have a week or two before i can start building my box, im going to design a ported box instead of a sealed box for my single ss rl-p 18. im going to stick with the suggested size and tuning(5cubes, 27hz) but i want to use flared aero ports. So here are some questions. 1) what diameter port should i buy and how many?( i kind of want two for the looks, but if ones better, let me know) 2) do you measure the flare of the port when tuning it? 3) were is a good place to buy them? thanks for the help!

Got a quick question. What does multiple runs of power cable front to back do? Does it increase voltage or help handle the amount of power being pulled from your rear battery back? I ask because I’ve had the fuse holder near the front battery melt a while back. Everything has been good for the past few months. And this just happened. So I cut off the melted part of the wire and put a new fuse holder in. And recently it’s done it again. Ive read that maybe the wire can’t handle the heat or whatever so it starts to melt. Will multiple runs of 1/0 awg help with this problem or would it be wise to just run a 2/0. My my system consists of a second battl…

I am new to this and replacing my RE SXX 15 worried after a year it sounded cool, but the thing on E40 etc. to long might have to be turned down got a little smell. I have looked at Xcon wanting something lower and only way I could fit an 18" would be in a sealed box, upgrading to try and get more low end, handle Hifonics Brutus 2400 better, and hit all day. It will be one speaker guess everyone seems to call Xcon SQ sub more than Zcon, 15 would bolt in box net slightly over 3.55 aero port 6" might upsize box and run 4-5 4" tune it lower even in current setup probably tune it lower then RE was. I looked at the Zcon 15 because of the better coil and actually sensitivit…

I want to use 2 6" or 1 8" for my next box since it will allow me to tune lower and also give me more internal space using the same dimensions. But on the face of the box I can't actually use a flare like the one Adrian has or the ones that partexpress sells, because it won't fit. Now can I use a round over bit on the port opening of the wood to make it a flare? Pic below is how I made a box for 4 15s and I had 4 6" pvc pipes. It's double baffled. The front baffle was used as .75" of the port length since the pvc didn't go all the way out of the box. It only went into the inner baffle. So can I use a round over bit to make the outer baffle a flare by using the bit? I'm no…

I have been messing around with SketchUp to design a box for my 15 Xcon, I have only built a few boxes all of which I used the re box calculator so this is new for me. I'm looking for any suggestions or recommended changes to what i have so far, as far as port area and tuning frequency. This is based off an estimated max size 34"w 17" h 18" d. (I'm going to make a test cardboard box to see the largest size that can fit through the opening)

I have designed a box using Torres. Under port dimensions I have entered 33.5 as my length In the calculator it has a Physical Port length of 25. It also states that this will require me to make a bend but at 25 inches In my mind I was looking at it that I will make the two peices of wood a total of 33.5" long. 1. What is the difference? 2. Which should I use to make my cuts with? 3. Am I looking at that incorrectly? I am just confused now.

Does anyone have any ideas of box designs for two 18'' xcons or two Fi bti subs in a Explorer behind the rear seats since I cant build a wall?

Vehicle : 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Location in the vehicle: Cargo Space available (Length x Width x Height): 29L X 40.5W X 20H Subwoofer make and model: SSA ZCON Subwoofer Size: 15 Number of Subwoofers: 2 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Slot What type of music do you like?: Rap,Rock, Dubstep Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Daily with some spl mixed in ( I know i know) Tuning Freq (Hz): 28- 32hz after displacement of course gotta love them lows I already built a box that is installed now and while it does do okay on the lows and the zcons truely are amazing, it does sound fairly peaky and it is also smaller than i expected (long story short i messed up when…

My dash is pretty much completed. It's built to be very flat from a-pillar to a-pillar with no erratic or uncontrollable reflections. I have some ensolite ready to apply but need to consider an aesthetically pleasing way of covering it. I have considered a few different materials.... Vinyl - I would love to wrap it in vinyl, but that would do nothing as far as taming reflections. Suede - Not bad for managing reflections and certain kinds are permeable, but good suede is expensive and looks like crap as soon as it's touched. Tweed - Permeable and manages reflections well, but ugly as all sin, in my opinion. Any thoughts on a good covering material?

looking for some ideas for my 18's

I'm trying to figure out the main differences between inverting a sub or flush mounting it like normal. I don't know if there is sonic difference or if the main theory behind it is to just show off the backside of the driver. I've got two DPL's that I'm going to use sealed. I was thinking around 1.5^3ft each.. but if there is a way to go smaller without sacrificing SQ I could go for that too. They'll each be on a separate channel on my ARC Audio 2500CXL (rated at a conservative 270x2 @ 4ohms). My max dimensions to work with in my trunk are 16Tx26Dx35W. Of course, going smaller would be a plus.

I just had me a crazy Idea just wanted to get some feedback on what you guys think. I have a 95 eclipse that i have been contemplating on how to build this thing. Then it hit me, why not fiberglass a 10 in each door panel and flush mount the amp there as well. Tell me what you think.

Looking to get help on designing a box for a 10" ssd on a hatchback fox body mustang. This is for daily use by my gf. And would like help if possible from someone that is familiar with fox body mustangs hatches as they are small. Can someone please help im interested and having the box tuned to about 32 or 33hz.

What type of design would this be considered? Would it have any disadvantages to a regular ported enclosure? Drivers would be mounted during the enclosure being built. Is there any negative effects by having the drivers facing each other? any cancellation? What would be a good distance to have between the opposing cones? The more the better? Thanks

Steve got me interested in the idea of building a console that I could put a decent SQ sub in. My thoughts were to have something like this, Box will be fabric matched and coushioned <SP bolt to surrent center seat/console location, have brackets that fit stock storage box on it. Each end of the box will extend behind each seat for added volume, passenger side extention will be the port. OR Plastic or vinal covered glassing to look similar to the current console on the LS & LT extended cab with basically the same layout. OR But an existing color matched console and modify it to incorporate the box design. Ideas and suggestions definatly welcome. I will make a b…

Hey guys, I originally made a topic where I landed on the idea of running an 8" midbass paired along with a 3" fullrange. After giving it a bunch of thought, because of the harsh drop off of the full rangers at higher frequencies (if not directly on axis with the listener.) I don't think that this would be the best option for me. I would prefer if both me and my passenger would be able to have the best listening experience. Would this be best achieved by just a simple 6.5" and tweeter combination, or are there different options that might work best? Just looking for some advice, -Mike

I have in the past been using Loctite Heavy Duty 2part epoxy for steel to wood and steel to steel... I do not like it... It sometimes adheres good enough to steel to steel but steel to wood.. it sucks.. I have broken the bonds so many times after days of let cure... I need something GREAT!.. I had been pointed to contact cement... Is this a viable option? I have recently looked at a product claiming to be the BEST bonding agent in the world.. practically. It's called Mitrebond. It claims to glue everything to everything. They said it's actually a CA glue that has been widened for many things. Pot time is 15seconds, hehe and comes with activator. IT's $$$ for how mu…

Sup guys...we're having a compeition coming here on the 6th...it'll be on DBTV so check it out!! I won't be using my car...I'll be using a friends Durango. Going to use a Orion H2 15.2 and a 2500D. Basically building the system for this comp because that would never fit in my t-bird. I'll start posting pics as I build the system and will post results and some video on what I hit on the 6th. Any guesses?? I"m thinking low 140's....I have no clue what it'll do. HCCAfan are you currently running H2's?

So I been looking on here and reading about fiberglass and my ? Is what is every body talking about when they say they mix there fiberglass with sand...or is sand another term for something else like I say Mud when I'm mixing autozone fiberglass hardener because it looks like mud to me....main reason is I want to and a couple layers to the inside of my subwoofer box with some good fiberglass or would the stuff at Walmart or home depot be good enough....