SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Cuz im going to compete i could use some test tones, if anyone has them, please email me or send me them on MSN toom585[at]hotmail.com

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but m…

I THINK ITS A REAL SHAME THAT TEXAS BASS PRODUCTION GIVES ITS PLAYERS A FALSE SENSE OF SECURITY MAKING THEM THINK THEY ARE BETTER THAN THEY REALLY ARE BECAUSE IF THEY WERE TO GO TO A USACI OR IASCA EVENT THEY WOULD HAVE THEIR ASS HANDED TO THEM BY THE HEAVY HITTERS AND LORD BACCUS IF YOU WANT A RING GO TO SOUTH PADRE AND EARN ONE... CHEF

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

http://texasbasswars.freeforums.org/the-big-ugly-t234.html

heya... i would like to know how close can a sub(magnet) come the back side .... ..(if the sub is 10" ... can the depth of the box be 16 > or if the sub is 18" ... can the width be 19" ) ...can it effect the sound ..?

My question is in regards to enclosures. Mostly the relationship between net volume and port area. From the little research I've done. High port area combined with small volume net will yield a very narrow bandwith but with most SPL.But, if you increase net volume, combined with high port area, you will increase SPL while sustaining a wide bandwith.So what I am thinking is. As an example. If I only had 1000watts to a 3000watt subwoofer, 180cuin would be too much port area because I do not have adequate power to displace as much air as I would if I had 5000 watts. Is this way of thinking correct? Like, hard to convey what I'm thinking via typing. But, I guess what I'm s…

I decided to do my blazer in the dark knight them the sub box is going to be the batman symbol the amp racks are going to be the joker playing cards. I need some help in deciding what to do the door panels and battery and distribution like to go with the theme using to svr batteries and and 2 sets of kenwood excelon 6.5 componets in each door.

Hi, Just wanted to know if anyone is going to the DB Drag World Finals. We may be competing this year providing we hit our target SPL score which is 160db. We currently compete in Street C and are hitting 1580DB in the UK. Are there any street competitors here on the forum? What are you hitting at the moment and what do you hope to be hitting at the World Finals if you're attending?

It was around 1990 when I helped install two 15"inch subs (i believe they were Pyramid) in a Chevy Cavalier, and installing a 15" MTX in a Mustang hatch back. Both systems were running around 300-400 watts or so and were extremely loud for the time. As car audio has become more popular, I've seen the trend go to the bigger and loudest SPL system you can get (Is there really a 2-way system that can keep up with a 2000-4000 watts sub system and sound good, and not have to have 8 mids and 12 tweets?). The thought of thousands of watts in a system were unheard of. As Im getting older, the trend still keeps expanding. Now you have people installing a sub stage with thousands…

My current front stage has visible speakers in the a-pillars and kick panels. Imaging is great, sound stage is deep/wide and often outside the vehicle. I have wondered what it would sound like if the speakers were hidden. Would the sound stage be wider, deeper and even more transparent because I would not be able to visibly localize the speakers? I stumbled across The McGurk Effect. Just to give you an idea of how visible my front stage is. Hmmm..... time to start re-making a-pillars for a hidden install? And carpet over kicks?

Birch is looking a lot better than MDF atleast in Miami humidity for a 2002 Chevy Avalanche midgate enclosure. But I need help on the best specs to get the most out of 2 Nightshade 15's sub box. I'm going to coat it with spray on Truck bed liner to protect it. Sundown recommends a 2^3 enclosure but I just wanted any tips and the best layout that's worked for you all.

SSA and anybody affiliated with SSA is not associated with this Group Buy. Please do not request information about this thread to SSA as they are not selling this product. Thank You! This Group Buy is specifically between me(ShiZZZoN) and with the company who manufacturers this product. All of the following products are available for group buy- USB Meter LCD Meter USB Pro Meter Wireless Bluetooth Meter USB Noise Meter RTA Pro Meter For information about the products, please visit the website- SPL-Lab USA This will be a very large group buy but there is still something else.. The Customer, you, will be able to choose their own measurement range! This means you can choose …

Ok so i hear a lot "the bigger the box the better." Then some manufacturers recommend small boxes. So what is Correct? Also advantages to bigger ported boxes vs recommended size ported. Also what is a good tuning for ports, or what do you use?

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike

I have really thinking about trying to run surround sound into my car but don't want to spend very much I want to keep my active 3way system I should be wiring this week, cross-overed in my deck I like my alpine 7998. What options do I have no cheap junk like pyle please

I have a Fi Q motor with cooling option with a 6 spoke 18 basket, single layer nomex spiders, tall roll surround, and dual 2. Recone made by spl audio. I have it in a box thats 39.75x 42.5 x 13.5 with a 10"x12"X42" portThe sub and port are both forward firing. I can tell the port needs to be shrunk but i was thinking of doing a 6th for it instead. Any ideas?

Been bumping my 15" SSD for a while now and I'm still loving every second of it except for one thing. The rattle. Its not the trunk rattling its my back deck speakers, and the reason their rattling so bad is because the sub is firing up towards them. My dad had to buy a special bolt and locking nut to keep the screws from backing out because every time i listened to it the screws holding the back deck speakers in backed out about 2 inches. Its really annoying, you either have to listen music with the bass so low it doesn't rattle them or so loud you can't hear the rattle. *And I'm not taking the back deck speakers out they help fill the cabin with highs So here is my plan…

So I am thinking of adding another Xcon 15" (1ohm) and not sure if I should stay ported or go sealed...I have a Hifonics BRX2000.1D which currently runs my ported 15" (1ohm dvc) w/ 1400rms @ 2ohm. I don't intend to upgrade the amp as right now my stock alternator seems fine, and have no plans to upgrade alternator anytime soon...sooo... Running two subs will pretty much leave me with 1k rms for each sub...and the idea of staying ported or going sealed is keeping me awake at night! Not to mention enclosure size and design. In the back of my Santa Fe has a storage compartment which houses my amps, but I get the feeling with it being so hollow it could be echoing my ba…

and lower tuning.. plus the subs heat up the enclosure, bad for the amps too, so better cooling! Port is 24" long now for a 22Hz tuning, I get bad cancellation I think, so I will do a 30" port which will reult in 20Hz

Probably a horse that's been beaten to death, but I've still got a couple questions. First off I guess the equipment in use would be a good place to start. Two Skar VVX V2 12s and a Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 amp wired to 1 ohm in the trunk of a cavalier. Listen to decaf, rock, and country so musicality is a factor. Only have one VVX in the car right now, so building a new box and deciding to forward fire and seal off versus rear fire is kinda where I'm at right now. I've never heard a sealed off box so don't have anything to reference to also. My gut feeling is sound quality would be better, especially on rock, it would meter well if sealed off properly, but would lose some …

this is 1 of the coolest setups iv seen in a while 6 ID MAX 12" w/ over 8k from the TruTech amps

ok this might be my final design. I used re calc to get the port length and used the other calc to give me my final specs including displacement.

how does this look? Used the RE calculator and it is confusing me a little bit. It is saying 4.58ft^3 volume with 105 sq.in. of port but when i do the math I get the volume shown in the box (in the drawing)... Sayd the tuning is 42Hz~ which is exactly what I am looking for but I wanted to make sure everything is good since I am getting conflicting numbers on teh box volume... Box is for a Mach5 SPL15