SPL & SQ / Fabrication

as of right now i am sound dampening, already heavily dynomated but not enough for me personally. so i am covering the interior with mdf and foaming between the mdf and all metal. the back wall will be about 3"soild, needless to say i want solid. i am going to have the subs facing up behind the two front seats, i have 12.9 cu ft gross and 10.77 net cu ft of space to work with. the box will be constructed from 1.5" mdf and internally braced with 5/8" all thread. the plan is to have an interchangable port set-up for SQ and SPL for compitition. if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them, this is the first time i have ever used soundsplinter subs. my last sub i ha…

anyone in here ever deal with Digital Designs or have a few M1 amps layin around?

is the DD9112,AQ LW12,or Eclipse Titanium SW9122 better for SQ?

Thought we could make one of these. Post up your SPL#'s car: Electrical: Amps: Subs: Box: Mic: Tone: Score: (legal or outlaw)

Okily dokily, in the middle of building my kicks. Was thinking of ways to deaden them. Got to thinking about the idea behind using mat's and such. Correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't the idea behind them to add enough mass so that the offending resonations are either stopped. or moved out of the audible range. With this in mind, I got to thinking of best ways to add mass and came up with an idea. I have a rather large stash of lead shot ( used to reload shells for my dad ) . Any thoughts on coating the inside of the kicks with an epoxy lead shot mix ? Seems like it would work. Any input would greatly be appreciated.

Forgot I uploaded these to photobucket Quite the challenge considering it's a crackerbox tracker, that's a manual, and I wear a size 15 shoe. I'll get some more pics when I get back home.

i want to wall my lincoln but first i need to make sure i wont get a ticket if i do have a wall. any one who knows about that kind of stuff any help would be good.thanks in advance

Hi all, I'm designing a custom boot for my car, what is the best way to place 2 x 12" phase aliante subs in a boot? I was told the best place would be one on each side (one on left side and the other one on the other side). and I would love to do a fibreglass job something like this: but on my car would be 2 of them..so one on the left and the other on the the other side. what do you think? or is it better to do something like this (which one is better, sub firing the front of the car or the rear)?:

What would be considered too small for a round port (in terms of diameter)? I'm trying to design a ported box (0.7 ft^3 ~ 24hz) w/ round ports for an RL-I 8" and the only diameter port I can use w/ a reasonable length is less than 1.5"...won't this create noise? I just can't imagine using a 1" port for that monster... What's the rule of thumb y'all?

my friend has 2 15"s just sitting at his house and needs a box for em. he's got a 2000 s-10 blazer, and the cargo area is i believe only 36 or 37" wide between the wheel wells. any help on a design for this would be appreciated. we should be building it next weekend.

just wondering what you guys felt about attaching things like felt or sound foam, (seen a few designs on DIY like this) for SQ purposes, not SPL ofcourse, but for less vibraton and harmonics, etc...

I tried my hand at making an enclosure with miter joints instead of butt end joints like normal. This is going to make finishing the box 100% easier and take half as much filler (just having to fill the screws). I had always been turned off by the thought of miter joints because every one says they are so "complicated" and the thought that iff i mess up that pice is gone for good. Well now i realize that if you think about what is going on and tripple check its easier than designing a box with butt end joints, best part is if you fudge up a lil it isnt gonna be a big thing to corrct it. Case and point: My first set of 45's where slightly steeper than 45...i realized this…

hey guys my friend has a cda-9855 that has a big green wire what does that do becouse it was cut when he got it will it work with out that wire thanks

There's a sanctioned USACI show about an hour and a half from here this weekend, thinking about entering in the "Consumer Q" class...anyone here have experiences with USACI SQ? I'm pretty sure the "Q" classes are just soundstage judging, no install, but I'm not sure. What are some things I should look out for so I don't get completely stomped? Thanks in advance.

Bass race death match was awesome to, I'll get the video later. Anyway, I built for this thing and I won, it ended up with a 146.1 for a 5min average. It could have been higher but there was no need to turn it up (as you'll see i started at a 148 and backed it down) This was taken this past weekend in Augusta, GA at one of the db drag events. Car off, 5minutes, four loudest street cars at once! I started high, and then turned it down just above the guy next to me. The guy with crx got a late start, so he only did a 138(burps a 151), the guy in the red truck had 2 L510's and a Orion 1200D and held a 138 for the 5min. Not bad! It was a looong five minutes sitting inside …

On bandpass enclosures, specifically 4th order for the moment, but I will be messing with 6th order later. I am always re-reading the diysubwoofers page. If anyone can reccomend books, sites, etc.... it would be great. Also an general rules of thumb too.

Has anyone done one of these before ? I reciently picked up a eD e8a and I wanted to try it in one. I found a formula that seems fairly simple to follow. Build a box with 2 chambers, one at 3 cuft and the other one EXACTLY half of that, ie 1.5 cuft. Next cut 3 ports all IDENTICAL in length. Put one in the face of each chamber and the third in the wall separating the two chambers. In this instance each port would be either 12.5" long for a little deeper response or 8" long for a little more SPL. Now you have a box with a big chamber with a vent in it, a small chamber with a vent in it, and a third vent in the wall between the two. The woofer also mounts in the large chambe…

I just bought 4 sheets of 40x55 at 1/8" thick(or something like that) of nuprene off of ebay for 40bucks. Supposedly its used in boeing airplanes and such. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT Does anyone know anything about it? it's got to be worth over a buck a square foot so I'm not really worried about getting ripped off. Once I get it I'll let you guys know what I think, should work well in a car. but I doubt that dynamat used that statement the guy had in his ad. thanks, b

I think this is the right place to put this. Ok, I want loud, but not "boomy" bass. Is that possible??? I will be pushing my 2 RL-p 15's with an A2400DB Power Acoustik amp (1800w rms @1ohm). Would my best bet be to go with a sealed box?? Or should I go with a ported one?? I listen to hiphop, rock, and everything in between. I would like to have a good LSQ system. Any info you can give me would be great. Thx, Victor. B) P.S. this system is going into a s10 xcab. So the subs will be inside with me not in a trunk.

Who's Going,? im not, ill be in Key West, but if there is enough interst in the people who are we can have an SSA meet prior to SBN. Kickin', i know you are going, stop by my house on your way so i can hear 150 Certified on TL.

Ok we are in the works of having a show at the end of march or early april. depending on the weather... This time we will have 2 meters. head to head competition to see whose louder. We also plan to have an sq portion to the competition for all the sq heads out there. How many would be interested??? We are talking about having one every month in the spring and summer months. maybe some nspl and iasca shows we need feed back!

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

i'm planning on building a new bass speaker for my amp and while sorting out the components i'm gonna i stopped to thing about their different db-spl so i thought i'd asking the guys here if they know if i should choose woofers with the same (or about the same) spl

i finished putting this togethre right now... LMK what you think. I'm uneasy about the tuning freq because i was unfamiliar with the calc. i used. since the box is wider, i can now have a good 26" of port area. anything wrong with what you see? the sub itself is .3 cubic ft but i will add more baffle to compensate

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike