SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok outa all my yrs of car audio i've never had a problem like this. It all starts i'm drivin and i goto turn the bass up and it plays for a while then cuts off. SO i'm like no bigE mayeb a fuse or bad connection. But i'm like lets test it so i turn off the HU and turn it back on and the system cuts back on. Turn it up again and the same thing happens so no i'm thinking bad connection somewhere. So next day i look at all the wiring and nothing seems to be a problem. I cut it on and it plays normal. I goto close the trunk and it cuts off. lol So i check erething again it looks fine but now a constant bass note plays wt the music even if you turn it down it continues to pul…

i'm planning on building a new bass speaker for my amp and while sorting out the components i'm gonna i stopped to thing about their different db-spl so i thought i'd asking the guys here if they know if i should choose woofers with the same (or about the same) spl

i finished putting this togethre right now... LMK what you think. I'm uneasy about the tuning freq because i was unfamiliar with the calc. i used. since the box is wider, i can now have a good 26" of port area. anything wrong with what you see? the sub itself is .3 cubic ft but i will add more baffle to compensate

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike

PPL, I'm in the process of building an all out SPL car. (SM 3-4) Right now, I have 2 AutoTek MM4000.1's, which will be connected to 2 ATOMIC APX18D2's. (wired@ 1 ohm per sub) Being a Kinetik dealer here in Japan, I can get the 2400 Monsters at a good price.. I used the calculator on the site and it said I needed 3 of these monsters! My goal is to get full power out of the amps(burps only!) How many batteries would you suggest? and before anyone suggest other batteries, I've already looked at: Odyssey 2150 NSB90 via Northstar and Optima g31 Yellow tops all comments are but experence is wanted holla when ya can TIA Gavin (MERRY CHRISTMAS AND a early Happy NEW YEAR …

Still looking for a new car. One that I can also have a good daily SQ setup, even have room to compete in. I am also thinking on competing in SPL next year. I wish I could make up my damn mind. '99-current Lexus GS300 maybe IS. Still researching the difference '99-current 4-runner '99-current Accord '99-current Camery "99-current Maxima All these fit into my size, power, and gas milage requirements. I have drove all but the lexus. Sometime this wekend Ill drive one. I have a potential buyer on the ATV so I will have a decent down payment. But I wm looking for the best stock stereo placement and the car with the mose room for growth. Ideas and suggestions definatl…

Ok so I am going to be going to sevierville tomorrow and stopping by the place my brother in law works. He said I was more than welcome to use the equipment they have. --read cabinet shop-- Sooo I figure why not go ahead and make a better box for the one avalanche. I'm looking for 3.5-4 cubes, tuned to 21hz. I would like it to be 30"W X 16-18" H X whatever deep. 16" high is better than 18 cause it'd be easier to fit, but i could do 18 if it really helps that much. I guess i will do slot ports so i can actually get a working box quickly. I will probably be using 3/4" MDF. I'm thinking a port on each side with the woofer in the middle. BTW its a 15" sub and the …

okay guys i have finished everything on my box expect the circle for the sub and the hole for the wires.. my friends router is broken now and no one seems to have one.. what tool can i purchase that is CHEAP and works alright.. it doesnt have to be perfect...

Come summer/next fall id like to hit a few competitions and then head to daytona even next spring break. Because ill be finished with online classes and im officially done with soccer. the onlything preoccupieing my time will be work and cross country. As for ocmpeating, im doing competition on a budget. Id like to run my BX1205D it even less for power and run maybe a pair of 12's. Im thinking a pair of 187 12's in a 4th order bandpass. Ive always wanted to build "The Wicked One" to see how it performed. The 187's seem like a good canidate. Reletively high efficency, good Xmax, and reletively low inductance. For Competition i would build one with a wider throat for high…

Just brought home my second first place trophy in as many competitions. Little higher this time. 150.1 In modified 901-1600.

alright guys.. what are some good ways to carpet ur boxes.. like techniques.. or whatever.. what matterials do i need to use besides carpet haha ..

Discuss.

Awaiting a check for $450 and then putting a call into RE. 4 RE 8's 1.8 @ 34Hz dual 3.25" Ports under the seat of an '03 GMC 1500 Ext Cab. going to be powered by Pheonix Gold Octane R 8.0 Hoping for 140 on the AC. Which shouldnt be much of a problem.

I want to do IB in my 1995 Acrua Integra hatchback. I am aware that I need to seal off the front wave from the rear wave but how much so? If you have seen the rear hatch area do you have any ideas how I can acomplish this. I was gonna remove the faux rear deck and put up a wood deck to mount the woofers and then seal off the seat area. But there is the issue of plastic paneling...do I need to remove it all? and then there is the issue of where the deck will touch the hatch. I cannot seal it together because I need to be able to access my trunk. Any ideas?

I have a soundstream tarantula tr880/2 amp(880rms) and now a soundstream splx 12" 750rms. I have 4 ga amp wires and 10 ga speaker wire, all on a alpine headunit. trunk is dynamated. I just got this sub off ebay after selling my jbl 15wgti. I didnt have much space and I figured I could get a 12" to pound as hard as a 15" I've saw guys at comps do it. But with this soundstream sub I'm not impressed. It came with a cheap particle board 2.3 ft. air space ported box, I plan on getting a nice box. the 15" hit a lot harder then the 12 in just as crappy a box. If anyone out there can give me some pointers on how to get this 12 to sound like a 15 please let me know. let me know if…

whaaaaaat. The wires in the terminals are a little cleaner now, had to adjust them some. But they are bad ass custom brass terminals. no ring terminals! see ya at finals...

i hate mdf and skilll saws..i meausured everything out and then i cut it and then it all ends up messed up.. i dont understand what i did grr i have to redue everything! i hate this

Hey fellas. What's going on? Alright, heres the deal. I picked up another CVR, so I am now in the process of deciding what I want to do with the new box for the 2 CVRs. This setup is going to be a pure daily driver, no competing or anything. I listen to all rap or hip-hop. Now, I emailed Kicker and asked what they thought the best daily driver box would be and they sent me some specs that ended up being tuned to around 40 hz. I thought 40 hz is pretty high for daily driver tuning. I PM'd Polecat and he said that 40 hz would be good and that I wouldn't lose much low end and that it would get loud and sound musically good. My current box for my single CVR is 34 hz and I am …

Posted this in the hop since there was some vinyl talk this morn, but need some help in figuring out how to finish the vinyl off after it is stretched and glued to the front. There is no place to "staple" the vinyl to the back of the pods so how would you attach it? I have never done this before, but have some really stretchy vinyl and 3M 77 Spray adhesive (and others, but thought this was best). Any recommendations on how to finish or attach the vinyl to the backside of the tweeter pods? As a reference for size the whole is less than 2" and the edges of the pod are about a 1/4". These will be mounted in the stock sail panel locations.

I am looking for a good place to go to learn about building crossovers. Not only how but what components to look for, theory on how different setups affect sound, anythng and everythng.

I never tried this until about 3 months ago when a friend who had W-6's in his truck awhile back said that JL's tend to hit harder in a Ported Enclosure w/ Polyfill stuffed throughout the enclosure. Does anyone know if this is true or not? I have had my 15's in single Ported Enclosures w/Polyfill for about 2 to 3 months and I'm not positive but I think it might be hittin harder but also I have a PPI amp now running these subs when before I had Phoenix Gold XS2500! That could be why also! What do you Fellas think? I have just picked up another PPI PC2150 tonight about an hour or so ago on my way home from work too! So this is my setup now! 2 15's W-6's ran parallel to one …

Thought I would post this little bit of theory that I discussed with Mattdog from Neons.org tonight. I would like to see if anyone has anything to add/discuss further? Typical 4ga stranded copper wire has approximately 0.000292/ft of resistance, so for a typical 20ft run of wire to the trunk, that equals 0.00564 ohms. Pretty much negilible, the fuse will have more resistance . A battery like the Optima Yellow Top runs approximately 0.0028 ohms of resistance. Battery resistance changes with temperature, but in the case of a gel-cell deep cycle, that battery temperature will be more stable than the typical lead-acid during use. Deep cycle batteries also have less resistanc…

I'm trying to figure out the main differences between inverting a sub or flush mounting it like normal. I don't know if there is sonic difference or if the main theory behind it is to just show off the backside of the driver. I've got two DPL's that I'm going to use sealed. I was thinking around 1.5^3ft each.. but if there is a way to go smaller without sacrificing SQ I could go for that too. They'll each be on a separate channel on my ARC Audio 2500CXL (rated at a conservative 270x2 @ 4ohms). My max dimensions to work with in my trunk are 16Tx26Dx35W. Of course, going smaller would be a plus.

So a few months ago I built a ported box for my HT with an IDmax at 3.2 cubes plenty of bracing and tuned to 27. Although it is plenty loud I find it quite boomy. If I'm listening to music that doesn't have much below low 30's it sounds fine, but on Hip hop and rap it just slams from 26-34ish like holy hell. I finally broke down and bought a table saw. Holy..akdkdfd its nice having a good saw (550 for Delta contranctor 680, that lists for 720 so I didn't do too bad. anyway here is a t-line (or part of one that I put together last night, I'll try to keep updating pics. Assuming line length is nearly doubled when fully stuffed, tapering from 2sd to .95sd. around 7.3 cubes …

Ok so speaking purely visually, i understand a basic motor and the LMT but XBL^2 i've never seen a good pic of, what exactly is it and how does it differ? what pics i have seen, i can't tell the difference from a normal motor. Now, someone explain in some more depth for me, or point me to a good link, the way the magnetic force helps hurts the voice coil movement. I'm not understanding why a lateral force is necessarily a good thing. Next, why is the cone concave instead of convex? Has anyone ever experimented with flipping the cone over? What affects would this have on the frequency? Obviously i'm procrastinating studying and my mind needs anything else to think abou…