SoundSplinter

Hey, Ok RL-i8 Sealed In My 97 Reg Cab Dakota I was going to go ported but Im going to be adding more amps & doing an active setup I was going to put 360x1 to the RL-i8 ported 1.2^ @35Hz Here's the deal.. Im going to move from one shop to a new shop the new one dose not sell Arc So I will be running Zapco I like'em better anyway.. Zapco Refrence 350.2 on the Sub(350x1@4Ohms) Zapco Refrence 350.2 On The Mids (100x2@4Ohms) Zapco 200.2 On the tweeters (50x2) But now Im looking at 350w sealed.. what do you think will it be good, great or outstanding? Or is it a Bad idea.. Lookin at just under 1^ The pic is from the drivers seat.. Here's the deal.. Im going to move …

According to the website: Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.55 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 32 Hz Is this right? This is the first time I see a vented box with a smaller net volume then a sealed box. If I end up with a RLi-10 and go with a ported box tuned to 32 Hz, the net volume would be about 0.8 ft^3. How would having a larger net volume effect the sound of the sub? And one more question to the actual Sound Splinter guys. Can you tell me what the shipping cost of a RLi-10 to zip code 96819 (Honolulu, Hawaii). EDIT: I just notice this on the same page: Acceptable: 0.4 -…

Well the topic pretty much sums it up. After having (2) RL-P 12" in a car for several years I have decided to put the subs inside the house. This frees up the space restrictions, and I have been enticed to build a ported box. So with all the experience most of you guys have on this board, I would appreciate some feedback or advice on building a ported box. Here is some info about what i got/need -I listen to mainly rap/R&B -Would like a strong balance between Home Theatre Use and Music listening -I will be using a EP2500 Amplifier (This gives me 500 watts if I run it at 8 ohms or 1200 watts if i choose to run it at 2 ohm) I would prefer to run it off 8 ohms and r…

whats the max box size for the 10? i was thinking 1-1.5@30 is it the same for the 8?

I'm going to be purchasing Sound Splinter RLP's here soon, to upgrade from my current 2 12" Kicker CVR's (03 model) and this time around, I'm looking for 100% more SQ while still getting fairly loud. I heard great things about these subs and how great their SQ is, which got me wanting to check these out. My amp is a JBL GTO1201.1, 787rms @ 4ohms and 1114rms @ 2ohms. If I went with 2 12's, I wouldn't be able to power them properly, but if I got a single 15" I think 1114rms would be perfect. I'm going for a sealed enclosure for either sub (I don't mind ported, I'm just a bigger fan of sealed) Now, after switching from 2 SPL subs, I'm afraid I'd be disappointed in output wit…

First thing is WOW! I decided to put them in a 4.1ft^3 box ported @ 32hz. Right now I have one Hifonics 1600 powering them. I'm going to install the other soon. I tried to build the most efficient box I could. Its based on about 70/30 spl/sq. But the speakers surprised me, they are WAY more musical than expected. I did put one in a 1.5 cu sealed box. I was pleased with the way it sounded. I listened to it for about two hours total. (going to school and back. Extremely musical absolutely no complaints about anything. That design just didn't have the output I wanted. I wanted the new box to get very loud. While still retaining very acceptable SQ. The port is large (its 81i…

Ok I'm ready to buy and have a few questions. I want either the RL-p 18 or the Rl-p 15 either one will be going in a sealed enclosure 4ft^3 for 18 or 2.5 for the 15. It's going in a 07 dodge ram quad cab. powered off a phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 So now for my questions. I have 2 10"kicker L7s in a 2.2 ft^3 box (loudest in my area) will either RL-p kill this set up? What is the shipping cost for each? Area code ( 18629 ) NE PA If I order on Monday june 11th when can I expect to recieve the sub? Thanks Chad I would love to hear your opinions.

i want to know how everyone that has a rl-s is running their subs. like what are your box specs and how much power are you giving it or them? i just ordered the rl-s 12 and i will be using a kicker sx900.1 to power the sub. not sure on the box specs yet. it will be sealed for sure though. before i start on my box build, i just want to know what kinda box everyone with the rl-s is using.

Hey, i currently have my box in about 1.6 cubes to low 30's, and Mike told me that 2cubes net at 34 would give me more output. I want to make sure i won't lose SQ, but i might give this a try. Will i gain much output with this change? Will i still have excellent SQ? I searched a ton on here and caraudio.com and read up on ports, square inches of port area, etc, and i used various calculators. I used the calc on maximacar.com, which is the best i have seen. The box dimensions are: 24x14.5x15 with a 4 inch by 11" port. The calculator takes into account woofer displacement and displacement of the port, and it comes out to 2.29gross, and 2.06 net. With the box being 1…

an 18" RL-P i was gonna go with a beefy 12" but i said to myself, what the heck....ill just go bigger! i need to save up the money first, then I will pull the trigger. Its going into a 4 cube sealed box, powered off an MD1D giving it oh, around 6-700w. (let me know if any of this sounds like it will not be good) couple of questions: 1. Can i have it with the laser etched logo + sig (cuz i heard that the laser thing is for a small run) 2. going from a 1.7 cube tuned to 34 hz 12" to a 4 cube sealed 18" will i be missing low end even if it is a 18" sub 3. will 6-700w be enough to get the sub moving good? thanks! woot! im glad its gonna fit.

Hm... Looking at your 18, it says it will do well in a sealed enclosure ~4 cubic feet? That'd be awesome, thats about the amount of space I have to work with. Worth doing or should I just go with a smaller sub? Also, what are the power possibilities? I have a Kicker ZX1500.1... not sure if I should get a 2 or 4 ohm driver, impedances own me.

Well, I got bored with my trunk. And since I'm currently waiting for my head unit to come back from warranty, I decided to redo my trunk. I don't think i'm going to make it look "as" presentable...but more on the functional side of things. Anyhow...I was itchin to go ported for some time now, and I think I'll follow through this time. I'm going to make a 2.5 cu ft tune to @ 30 hz using two 4" aero ports. Yeah the box may seem a bit small for a ported 15, but it's still within the sub's recommended box volume. The box won't be as deep as my old one...in attempts to get back some trunk space. Heres what it looks like before: And now...after today... Front baffled remove…

Thanks Mike for all the help. I got one thing to say about Mike and Soundsplinter BAD ASS service and BAD ASS little (beefy) 8's. I got my subs delivered in one frickin day! Told Mike I wanted two on Monday night, sent him the money on Tuesday night, order confirmed and sent out Wednesday and Thursday I come home from work and they are on my porch. Now that is top notch.

getting ready to build the temporary home for my rlps for my yukon and im right around 5.5 cubes after sub displacment and couple braces will they be ok all 4 in a shared chamber running all off the same amp zx2500.1

Little run down, in the last 5-6 years it was 1 JL 8w3v whatever 1 JL 8w7 2 eD 10o's 1 12-claw magnum 1 12 type R (just to try and torture) 1 12 ascendant av 1 12 Mag 1 Q12 1 Q15 I know I'm forgetting a few that I've owned, installed and sold But it seems I've come full circle, back to 8(s) I'm looking at either 2-sealed rl-i8 or 1 ported The vehicle is a 2002 ford F-150 super crew and I want my seats back in it and I know I can stick 8's under the seat. The AMP is an older model Memphis Belle, that will deliver 1100@1ohm or 600@2ohm or 400@4ohm. So the question is, is SS the way to go and is it 1 ported or 2 sealed for me? I'm not sure exactly how much room is under my …

I've decided if I can keep from having to make a wall to fit them both I would rather go that route. I should be getting my truck back here shortly. Then I can start on the box for the 2 18"s. They'll be pushed by an Orion 2500D. I had a plan made up to do a 4th order box in a wall, but I would rather not do a wall if I can get away with it. What would be the smallest sealed box I could do per sub?

What would the Rms rating for the 18 in the optimal box specs be? and is the rating conservative? like could i be putting 1300 into it without worries?

I want to use 2 RLi 10s in a 1.5 cubic foot net sealed box with 1800 watts RMS power on them @ 1 ohm. Will the subs handle that kind of power being that are only rated at 500 watts RMS? Also, what size voice coil do these subs have? Thanks, Bill

would 13 cubes at 34hz be a nice box for a pair of 18in rlps in my 02 explorer i want something that gets low and loud as fawk but also hits the slighty higher frequencies hard too i also plan on a double baffle and bracing of some sort power is gonna be around 2000-2500 watts

Finally got the enclosures finished and in the house. Each box is 10^3 @19Hz with a single 8" port and RL-P 15. Port fires up and subs are down firing. I'm about 50/50 HT and music, so I think the higher tune is a good balance. So far I've been VERY impressed and the subs are only getting 400watts each off a Hypex plate amp. Couldn't imagine what 800+ to each one would sound like. Music has punch, hits low, and gets plenty loud with excellent SQ. Has no trouble keeping up with 6 Klipsch Legends. Also got to demo the depth charge scene from U-571 tonight. Neighbor was over and his jaw hit the floor. Much louder than the 4 Tempests they replaced. GF said the whole house fe…

Hey guys, quick rundown of what I have had in the past (for comparison purposes) and what I have now. Old vehicle, '93 Explorer, Eclipse Head unit, 5433 I think, Diamond Audio 5X7's in all doors, Diamond Audio M6 tweeters in A-pillars, US Acoustics USB 4085 amp for all the above mentioned, Diamond CM3 10" D4 subs in a transmission line ported enclosure, powered by a Diamond D5 600.2 amp. New vehicle, '99Mitsubishi Montero Sport, Eclipse CD5000 headunit(sweet), Eclipse SC8264 Components in front doors (sweet), MB Quart DKK116 6.5 Coax's in rear doors, all ran off same US Acoustics amp, the RL-p12" sub ran off the Diamond Amp (600rms@4ohms), sub is in sealed enclosure, ~1.…

Been itchin to go ported for a long time now, since I've never heard my RLp 15 ported before. Whats the smallest volume (before port area) would you guys go for a ported setup?

I was originally going to go sealed 2.1 cuft enclosure for a pair of Soundsplinter RL-p 15"s from my box builder. However, he worked out the specs and told me a 4th order bandpass would work better and worked out a response curve. What do you think? Will this work better for Sound quality purposes? The yellow line is the response for sealed 2.1 cuft and the teal is bandpass response. He didn't give me any enclosure size details except the exterior dimensions... " The dimensions you will want to know about are 31"d, 41"w, 18"h at the front, 4" high at the back, and the horizontal part of the box extends 10.75" from the front, which is the depth needed for the sealed cham…

buddy of mine is looking at the RLp 18, or a pair of RLp15's. he is worried about upper frequency extension, i planned on building a box with a swappable\pluggable port. i was wondering what people are using for box sizes, and what the best volume would be for a sealed and ported box. any recommendations\expierences would be greatly appriciated. thanks a bunch

i was wonderin if this will work.. now i dont know the demenstions or tuning.. or how i would tune it.. can anyone help me out.. the size i would like it to be is the size of the floor in a pt cruiser.. and the height of the subs.. will anyone be able to tell me how wide and long the port should be.. like how long should the cuts be.. and all that.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/gallery...e.php?pos=-1994 and the measurements of the floor that i can use is 40" wide 22" deep..