SoundSplinter

okay, im lookin at gettin 2 RL-i's for my truck (87 mazda b2200) i want it to wang like hell. problem is ive got only enuff for the tens right now. and im tryna build something over time. ive always wanted tens, and saw the site cuz of reccomendations at CA.com. would this be a good setup to fiberglass? or would it be happier in MDF? ill probably stick to sealed, i wont get metered but i want it to hit pretty good. my ears ring on 2 w3's and 500/1 and thats sorta what i base everything off of, being its the only quality system around my area. everything else is audioblown

im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more power

I was just looking at the specs on the rl-i 10 on the SS website, and was wondering if was a typo on the rec. enclosure. Website says .45 vented and .65 sealed? and also the rl-i 8 vented is smaller than the sealed... is that right or what? or what are some boxes yall have used for either driver in any application?

Hey guys, quick rundown of what I have had in the past (for comparison purposes) and what I have now. Old vehicle, '93 Explorer, Eclipse Head unit, 5433 I think, Diamond Audio 5X7's in all doors, Diamond Audio M6 tweeters in A-pillars, US Acoustics USB 4085 amp for all the above mentioned, Diamond CM3 10" D4 subs in a transmission line ported enclosure, powered by a Diamond D5 600.2 amp. New vehicle, '99Mitsubishi Montero Sport, Eclipse CD5000 headunit(sweet), Eclipse SC8264 Components in front doors (sweet), MB Quart DKK116 6.5 Coax's in rear doors, all ran off same US Acoustics amp, the RL-p12" sub ran off the Diamond Amp (600rms@4ohms), sub is in sealed enclosure, ~1.…

Does anyone have a working design for dual RL-i8's in a ported enclosure? I'm clueless when it comes to designing ported boxes, and the calculators over at CS.com have me baffled (excuse the pun). I'm looking for flat SQ output but with a deeper range than sealed. I love the T-Box, but I'd like to compare against something that doesn't take up half of my cargo space. Thanks, -J.

Been a while since we heard anything new. What's up? any projects? updates? just workin? Let us know...

Okay..i've read alot of the posts concerning the SS RL-i8's...i love them...i want 8 of them in my 07 ranger....questions are What material is the Magnet Made of...What is the Voice Coil made of...What is the best sealed size for max SPL output, and can they handle the power from two RF T15001 amps at one ohm......also when/where can i buy them...the site says there out of stock....

Well, I've pretty much narrowed my first sub down to this baby. I've heard nothing but good reviews from it. I origionally was looking at a Type R but from what I'm hearing this should be much better. Just a few questions for you guys. Will one 12" be enough to get fairly low and shake some chit up? I'm looking at a Hifonics Nemesis Series NX750D to power it. Should that work out well? The only thing I'm not to sure on is how to rig it up to the amp with all of the 2 and 4 ohm stuff. It gets a little confusing for a newb. Also, what kind of box would I be looking for. I'd like to build one but if there is a decent premade one it would be cool. Sorry for all of …

here is a link to a better vid of my rl-p on realm of excursion. This sub is moving its ass off!! Please tell me if you think i am pushin her too hard!!! thanks. Mike you should enjoy this. http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/SoundSplinter/rlp12.4.wmv

http://www.soundsplinter.com/high_end_subwoofers.html haha, that's funny.

I got a DMM but i was wondering where do i need to stick the positive and negatives to know what my voice coil config is...

I am still up in the air as to how I am going to install the little monster. I have wanted one for a long time, now that I have one, I almost want a second one to pair up with it. So I want to start thinking about a very good SQ box with enough output for the bass to make it out of my trunk and into the cabin, which by the way the RL-p 12D2 is having some trouble with an Orion 8002 on it (just to give you and idea as to how much bass is trapped in the trunk). Anway, I looked around a decent amount and listening to Mike, I am thinking I will go ported. Even though I would love sealed but know it will not have the output I need. So according to Mikes measurements, the …

hey I just bought 2 12" rlps and I cant wait to get them goin. The thing is I still need to get an amp and I am not sure which to get. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to keep it under 300. Also if someone could help me out with box dimensions as I am thinking of building it myself. I would like to do 2 cubes tuned to 28hz ported. Thanks and I can't wait!!! Denny

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…

Just out of curiosity, which company that you guys know of that use TC sounds as their 'hidden' partner?? Lots of people mention Eclipse, anyone else??

Next to my RE6.5 Me Thx Mike

I have my 2 rl-p 15s in 5 cubes tuned to 31 hz. I have my Orion 2500d at 4 ohms giving them around 600 watts apiece. If I turn the gain up a little more than it is, the cone makes kinda like a pinging noise when it hits real hard. I measured my voltage and it stays around 13.5 so I dont think its clipping. Am I simply pushing them too hard or is it possibly clipping or what? I backed off on the gain and the noise went away but the output went down. Are aluminum cones known to make a noise when they are playing this loud, or what? It only makes the noise when I stick my head pretty close. The noise isnt a big deal but I just figured I was pushing them too hard so I backed…

Hello Mike. It is all over the TC Sounds/Audiopulse forum that TC is going under. Will this affect your business and if so what do you see SoundSplinters future being?

I've always had 12s sealed. One of my favorite setups I had believe it or not was my old JL Audio W3D4 12s sealed with 500 watts. IMO they got plenty loud for the power and souded good to boot. How would a pair of the RL-i 10s compare vented with 600 watts?

A nice feature of the Soundsplinter drivers is the aluminum cone for its heat dissipation capability. I've never quite understood why all the supposed power people feed their drivers in sealed, insulated boxes doesn't cause them to burst into flames. Well, paper cone drivers, anyway. Has anyone ever checked how warm the cones get? Thanks

Took a few hours tonight and threw this new box together for my pair of RL-i8s. I think it came together well, won't be able to test it out until the morning. Might run a roundover on the edges, what do you think?

well my rl-15 is on the way and im onlky pushin 600 watts to it, and im thinking of porting it. i believe the recommended tuning is 28hz? there are prefab boxes on ebay pretty cheap but tuned to 38hz X_X right now im throwin togethor a ghetto sealed from a dual sealed box i had from my last pair of subs, but i dont plan on keepin that as the permanent home of my oh so sexy rl-p =)

LINK

Has anyone tried a RL-p 12 in a .75 ft^3 box which is the minimum recommended sealed enclosure? Right now I have one RL-p in a 1.15 ft^3 enclosure. I have a second RL-p gathering dust but the largest box I could build would be .77 ft^3 net per sub. Worth building or not

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…