SoundSplinter

What would be the best setup for under rear seat of Dodge ram quad cab box@ about 1.8 ft^3 ? Want it to get loud but still sound good. Any suggestions would be appriciated. One Rlp 12" seald Two Rli 10" ported Two Rli 8" ported

Hey mike is it possible for you to recone an original 15" RE HC with RL-p soft parts? I'd much prefer to give you the money than RE. Please let me know. To all the guys hello Its been awhile since ive been around

I started out with 5^3 @30Hz for 2 15's per Mike from SS. SQ was excellent and lows were amazing. I consider this my reference box. Then I went to 5.8^3 @35Hz. Was shooting for 6^3 @ 34Hz, but did some goofy math at 2am. Subs had more punch in the mid/upper bass, but lacked low end compared to the "ref" box. It was definitely louder, but lacked impact. I tried it for 2 days and didn't care for it. I extended the ports and ended up with 5.4^3 @ 32Hz. I consider this the ultimate tune for LSQ. Plenty of deep lows, loud as he!!, and still very articulate and musical. Kick drums literally beat the car to death. Thank god for the 150#'s of sound deadener I have in there, but…

Ok so heres the deal, its really complicated to build a box to it in your car and that will allow pvc pipe to be used instead of a slot port. I decided to use a pvc pipe because I read it has advantages over slot ports. Ok heres my question. I need to see what you all think of the box design I have came up with. I'm using .75 mdf. The box is going to be a CRX style box, and I'm trying to make it for decent sound quality. The dimensions are 11x31x24, which is equal to a GBV of 3.4 cubic ft, and a Net box volume of 3.1 Cubic ft. The pvc port is going to be 6 inches wide, and 17.7 inches long, which is supposed to tune it to 33hz, the 6 inches will give it 28.2 cubic inches …

Got it all wired up and in the box about a week ago, now just waiting on my amp which should be here tomorrow.

hi everyone i am a new to sound splinter i am buying 4 10 inch rli in the next week i am wondering if i should do down fired sealed in my prelude or port them and tune the to something low like 25-30hz trying for as much spl and loudness as possible i was going to get 2 rlp-12s but decided on 4 8 inch rli because i had done a install on the 8 rli and was very impressed so i decided to go bigger i am thinking 1200-1500 watt mono class d?

OK so I have a few uberquality phone pics for now, will post some more real pics later. Built a .49 ft^3 (.4 + .09 for displacement) enclosure out of 3/4 MDF so it'll bolt up to the 'ski hole' on my bimmer. Getting the angle to fit snug against the slope of the back seat was a little tough, but it came out in the end (my first box assembling experience). I did black carpet for the face, as I have black interior. Back of the enlosure is gray to match the carpet in the trunk. Box was screwed shut and glued / sealed using Loctite Construction Adhesive (claims no fumes, but I still let it dry 24 hours). Specs: 5.25" Vifa components in the front doors (fatmat added, more on or…

Tired of trying to figure our which amplifier and woofer combination you should invest your hard earned cash into? Well now you won't need to fret over all of the many combinations available, as flakko and myself have decided to team up to bring you some super solid deals on some of the best subwoofers and amplifiers that are out there on the market today. Following, you will find package deals featuring combinations of SoundSplinter's RL-i and RL-p Series subwoofers in conjunction with USAmp's Xterminator line of multi-channel & mono amplifiers. These combo's will ensure that you receive the exceptionally clean and powerful amplification that USAmps is know…

Well fired up my system for the first time today. I'm digging this 12. I thought since I have a trunk car (06 mustang) it couldn't get loud, I was wrong. I did the recommended 1.2 sealed box and with only 600 watts it gets plenty loud/low and sounds extremely good doing it. I do believe this thing would take a good deal more power though, its barely moving with the 600w I am giving it. Thanks to Mike for the great sub and the great price. I am extremely pleased with the sub. Unfortunately my digicam is MIA so no pics I have 260w worth of front stage and it can't hang with this 12, guess its time for more power up front

I've reserved free use of a table saw down at a local shop tomorrow. It'll be a simple common chamber, sealed enclosure for 2 15" rlp. Internal dimensions of 19"H 15"W1 17"W2 30"L. Woofer displacement is .42 and that leaves me .2 for box bracing. Internal space for the woofers is the reccomended 2.1. I'd call it a simple, fail-safe enclosure, right? Any ideas? Subs will be facing forward, although i'd like them to downfire. I suppose it'll be built tomorrow...

I have a pair of rli-10's on the way to me. (Thanks Mike) They will be going into two separate boxes with these dimensions. Mounting Depth - 6" width - 20" height - 14" bottom depth - 8" top depth - 5" .66 cubic ft. interior air space per box They are going into a regular cap truck, one behind driver seat, and one behind passenger seat. My HU is a Pioneer deh-780. I also have a US amp xt2000d on the way. I listen to rock, country, and rap. I'm still learning about this car audio stuff. Should I put any poly-fill in the boxes before installing the drivers. Do they need anything special as far as break-in? What should I do with the amp as far as set-up? (gain, fre…

edit: I have received a $70 credit as compensation. Very cool. The 2 15" rlp subs i ordered arrived today. The first thing i noticed was an outward dent in one of the subwoofers cones. Both have imperfections but this is the most noticeable. The other sub has minor blemish dents just around the logo. Hard to capture with camera and hard to notice. Not that big of a deal. This dent has somewhat bothered me about the order. It sucks having buyers remorse, it sucks having to ship products back for replacement also. Its hard to see how this would have been caused during shipping, without puncturing the cardboard container. An email has been sent to mike, i was ju…

Okay, I know many of you have heard both SE's and RL-p's, and although I know I am on a Soundsplinter forum, I feel like I could get an honest opinion from many of you, so here it goes. What would the differences be between the two in their optimum sealed enclosures? How would the output and SQ differ? It will be Dual 12's with a Diamond D6 1000.1. I am asking because the RE SE's brand new are about 330 shipped for me.. and the Rl-p's are quite a bit more. I wanna know if it is worth the jump.

What tunning would be the best for 80's Metal. I.E. Metalica, G&R, AC/DC and the list goes on. This is for a (1) RL-p 12 Dual 4. From all the info I have been reading lately, it looks like 1-2cuft tunned @ ~28-32hz. What do you guys think? I dont think I can fit 2cuft maybe 1.5. I was thinking 1.5 @ 28HZ Should i scrap the vented Idea and go sealed? I like my Metal, but some times I just like to wang out 2. so I want the best of both worlds. I will have 600WRMS on it. Is this to much, not enough? Please help me sort through this confusion. Thanks

i woulda thought with all the rl-p fans here that know what their doing (i dont) i coulda got some interest in a box design but no-one has offerd? i have paypal and want a seriously good sq.....L design for 2 x rl-p. or should i got to toxic bass?

have paypal, would prefer bandpass.

Hello All, Well here is my thing. I really don't have any experience making vented boxes. All I have ever made are sealed. But I think I can build one. I need help with the exact box plans for a RL-p 15" tuned to 18 or 19hz. I need box size, number of ports, length of ports, and size of ports. I am an ameture at building vented boxes so I need the plans. If anyone could help with this it would be much apprecieated. Thank you for looking. Saul_M

i have 2 x rl-p 12s but have the oppertunity to get an rl-s 12, which do you think will be more fun off an orion 2500d? id have to sell the rl-ps to buy the rl-s how dyu think the rl-s will perform off an orion 2500d? no competeing just daily driver.

The vas for a 15" rl-p D4 is 5.225ft^3 yet the reccomended box volume is 2.1 sealed. Should i try to make the sealed volume closer to the actual vas or should this spec be completely ignored? I was thinking more like 2/3 of vas which would be 3.1ft^3. Has anyone questioned this before?

wouldnt you just love to have this order right now? youd be a billionare! sorrry, im extremely bored right now, and i cant call anybusinessescuz its a sunday

I installed the subs tonight and wired them to my MMATS class D amp. I must say these play quite LOW for 8's! I did not have much of a chance to adjust parametric EQ settings or gain. I figure that I was able to only feed 1/3 to 1/2 of total power into the subs tonight. At this level they played quite loud and tight. I was also made aware that the electrical system in my Toyota Matrix is not up to the task as my lights dimmed during the hard hits. I could only imagine what will happen when I set the system up properly! As a recap, I am running a pair of RL-i8's in a sealed enclosure with a total volume of .828 cu^f after sub displacement. I added 1 pound of polyfill to b…

I'm building a SQ box, for my 15 inch RL-p, and the dimensions I'm using are 25x11.5x33. The wood I am using is 1 inch thick. I plan on using a slot port and tuning it to ~29 hz. The only problem is in order for the port to be on the same plain as the subwoofer and be tuned properly with the right area, it says the port will have to be 31 inches wide, by 1.25, with around 38 inches as the length. I've seen lots of other slot ports and most are opened wider than 1.25 inches. I was just wondering, with it being that skinny would it be tuned properly? It still meets the area requirements, ~38.75 square in. its just skinny, and I wanted to make sure turbulance wouldn't effect…

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…

Basically I have seen some people recently making ported boxes and putting the slot port in the middle to act as bracing. When they get to the back of the box they split the port's area in two but still use the same port length. You can see what I mean here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169881 So for example if I needed 48 inches of port area, 30 inches long. I would go 3x16 in area for 15 inches and then make a left and right turn. The port area would shrink to 1.5x16 inches in both directions and go for another 15 inches in each direction. So technically I still maintained the same port area for the same length. But I don't know if such a design actual…

I am having a hell of a time deciding on a box size and tuning freq for a pair of RL-P 12's pushed with 1500 watts of class a/b power. I want major major impact with rock music. Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, etc. I love Dave Mathews, when his bass drum kicks I want to feel it. I guess the big question is where exactly does the bass drum fall in the freq range? Is it in the high 30 and into the 40's where the green plot would do best? Or is it in the mid 20's to low 30's where the blue plot would be best? Or lastly a compromise of both as the red plot shows. I am so confused on which route to take. I do not listen to rap, so I don't care about that. Mostly rock, jazz and…