SoundSplinter

Ok so heres the deal, its really complicated to build a box to it in your car and that will allow pvc pipe to be used instead of a slot port. I decided to use a pvc pipe because I read it has advantages over slot ports. Ok heres my question. I need to see what you all think of the box design I have came up with. I'm using .75 mdf. The box is going to be a CRX style box, and I'm trying to make it for decent sound quality. The dimensions are 11x31x24, which is equal to a GBV of 3.4 cubic ft, and a Net box volume of 3.1 Cubic ft. The pvc port is going to be 6 inches wide, and 17.7 inches long, which is supposed to tune it to 33hz, the 6 inches will give it 28.2 cubic inches …

OK so I have a few uberquality phone pics for now, will post some more real pics later. Built a .49 ft^3 (.4 + .09 for displacement) enclosure out of 3/4 MDF so it'll bolt up to the 'ski hole' on my bimmer. Getting the angle to fit snug against the slope of the back seat was a little tough, but it came out in the end (my first box assembling experience). I did black carpet for the face, as I have black interior. Back of the enlosure is gray to match the carpet in the trunk. Box was screwed shut and glued / sealed using Loctite Construction Adhesive (claims no fumes, but I still let it dry 24 hours). Specs: 5.25" Vifa components in the front doors (fatmat added, more on or…

I've reserved free use of a table saw down at a local shop tomorrow. It'll be a simple common chamber, sealed enclosure for 2 15" rlp. Internal dimensions of 19"H 15"W1 17"W2 30"L. Woofer displacement is .42 and that leaves me .2 for box bracing. Internal space for the woofers is the reccomended 2.1. I'd call it a simple, fail-safe enclosure, right? Any ideas? Subs will be facing forward, although i'd like them to downfire. I suppose it'll be built tomorrow...

hello, i am intrested in puttin in some RL-i 8's in my 06 dodge megacab. Currently the amp i own is an re12.1 and was wondering if that was too much amp for a pair of 8's. I listen to alot of everything but love music that has super low 25-35hz tones so im thinkin ported, what are you guys using for ported enclosures? size wize i mean. i used to run some crystal 8's in one of my previous setups but saw the vid for these 8's and am really intrested in trying them. thanks!

I have a pair of rli-10's on the way to me. (Thanks Mike) They will be going into two separate boxes with these dimensions. Mounting Depth - 6" width - 20" height - 14" bottom depth - 8" top depth - 5" .66 cubic ft. interior air space per box They are going into a regular cap truck, one behind driver seat, and one behind passenger seat. My HU is a Pioneer deh-780. I also have a US amp xt2000d on the way. I listen to rock, country, and rap. I'm still learning about this car audio stuff. Should I put any poly-fill in the boxes before installing the drivers. Do they need anything special as far as break-in? What should I do with the amp as far as set-up? (gain, fre…

edit: I have received a $70 credit as compensation. Very cool. The 2 15" rlp subs i ordered arrived today. The first thing i noticed was an outward dent in one of the subwoofers cones. Both have imperfections but this is the most noticeable. The other sub has minor blemish dents just around the logo. Hard to capture with camera and hard to notice. Not that big of a deal. This dent has somewhat bothered me about the order. It sucks having buyers remorse, it sucks having to ship products back for replacement also. Its hard to see how this would have been caused during shipping, without puncturing the cardboard container. An email has been sent to mike, i was ju…

i woulda thought with all the rl-p fans here that know what their doing (i dont) i coulda got some interest in a box design but no-one has offerd? i have paypal and want a seriously good sq.....L design for 2 x rl-p. or should i got to toxic bass?

The vas for a 15" rl-p D4 is 5.225ft^3 yet the reccomended box volume is 2.1 sealed. Should i try to make the sealed volume closer to the actual vas or should this spec be completely ignored? I was thinking more like 2/3 of vas which would be 3.1ft^3. Has anyone questioned this before?

What tunning would be the best for 80's Metal. I.E. Metalica, G&R, AC/DC and the list goes on. This is for a (1) RL-p 12 Dual 4. From all the info I have been reading lately, it looks like 1-2cuft tunned @ ~28-32hz. What do you guys think? I dont think I can fit 2cuft maybe 1.5. I was thinking 1.5 @ 28HZ Should i scrap the vented Idea and go sealed? I like my Metal, but some times I just like to wang out 2. so I want the best of both worlds. I will have 600WRMS on it. Is this to much, not enough? Please help me sort through this confusion. Thanks

wouldnt you just love to have this order right now? youd be a billionare! sorrry, im extremely bored right now, and i cant call anybusinessescuz its a sunday

have paypal, would prefer bandpass.

i have 2 x rl-p 12s but have the oppertunity to get an rl-s 12, which do you think will be more fun off an orion 2500d? id have to sell the rl-ps to buy the rl-s how dyu think the rl-s will perform off an orion 2500d? no competeing just daily driver.

Hello All, Well here is my thing. I really don't have any experience making vented boxes. All I have ever made are sealed. But I think I can build one. I need help with the exact box plans for a RL-p 15" tuned to 18 or 19hz. I need box size, number of ports, length of ports, and size of ports. I am an ameture at building vented boxes so I need the plans. If anyone could help with this it would be much apprecieated. Thank you for looking. Saul_M

I'm building a SQ box, for my 15 inch RL-p, and the dimensions I'm using are 25x11.5x33. The wood I am using is 1 inch thick. I plan on using a slot port and tuning it to ~29 hz. The only problem is in order for the port to be on the same plain as the subwoofer and be tuned properly with the right area, it says the port will have to be 31 inches wide, by 1.25, with around 38 inches as the length. I've seen lots of other slot ports and most are opened wider than 1.25 inches. I was just wondering, with it being that skinny would it be tuned properly? It still meets the area requirements, ~38.75 square in. its just skinny, and I wanted to make sure turbulance wouldn't effect…

Basically I have seen some people recently making ported boxes and putting the slot port in the middle to act as bracing. When they get to the back of the box they split the port's area in two but still use the same port length. You can see what I mean here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169881 So for example if I needed 48 inches of port area, 30 inches long. I would go 3x16 in area for 15 inches and then make a left and right turn. The port area would shrink to 1.5x16 inches in both directions and go for another 15 inches in each direction. So technically I still maintained the same port area for the same length. But I don't know if such a design actual…

I am having a hell of a time deciding on a box size and tuning freq for a pair of RL-P 12's pushed with 1500 watts of class a/b power. I want major major impact with rock music. Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, etc. I love Dave Mathews, when his bass drum kicks I want to feel it. I guess the big question is where exactly does the bass drum fall in the freq range? Is it in the high 30 and into the 40's where the green plot would do best? Or is it in the mid 20's to low 30's where the blue plot would be best? Or lastly a compromise of both as the red plot shows. I am so confused on which route to take. I do not listen to rap, so I don't care about that. Mostly rock, jazz and…

Hi, guys! Since I bought my RL-p15 (dual 2 ohm) earlier this year, I just know there can't be another sub out there to match this truly super woofer when it comes to price/LSQ/fun/pleasure. I had a LSQ setup in my Civic, did 144.4dB legal on the new TL. With small ports and a cheap ass amp I figure that's pretty decent! Now I've sold my Civic HB, and bought a little funny jap - Honda Del Sol (the "little two-seat Vtec-beast"). Thing is, I still want to use my RL-p15! So I sacrificed a little seat travel, and bent my knees for some awesome beats from this little rascal. A fiberglass enclosure behind/between the seats should do it, right? Now we're getting to the main issu…

alright well i have been contemplating getting an rl-p 12 and porting at something pretty low like 20 hz for home audio use. putting about 540 watts to it. im starting to wonder if this would be overkill, and if i should go with an rl-i with alil less power. i also wanted to know if there was someone who could draw me up some plans, or at least someone i could talk to about plans. thanks yall.

Should be on their way this week. A pair of them in 3cf tuned to 34Hz. Got the box being build right now too. Can't wait.... I will post pics when I get them installed and metered.

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…

Hey there... I ordered an RL-i8 from the SS website on the 26th, but haven't received a paypal request or any other emails besides the automated bill #. Who will get in touch with me about completing the order? Thanks!

Okay, I know many of you have heard both SE's and RL-p's, and although I know I am on a Soundsplinter forum, I feel like I could get an honest opinion from many of you, so here it goes. What would the differences be between the two in their optimum sealed enclosures? How would the output and SQ differ? It will be Dual 12's with a Diamond D6 1000.1. I am asking because the RE SE's brand new are about 330 shipped for me.. and the Rl-p's are quite a bit more. I wanna know if it is worth the jump.

some very nice HT set ups with SoundSplinter,

Hi all, Newbie here. I have decided to purchase 2 RL-P 12's being pushed by a tantrum 1200.1. Each driver will be getting about 750 W each of clean a/b power. I am mostly looking for serious impact and the bass drum range. I want Def Leppard and AC/DC kick drums to kick the hell out of my chest. Dave Mathews' "Crash", etc. I have about a max of 4 cf I can work with. Based on this what would you recommend enclosure-wise? I know sealed always offers the smoothest curve, But I keep hearing that these drivers shine in a ported box more than many others. Can a ported box still produce tight, accurate bass that I need? Thanks all.

i went to go purchase a set of Rl-i 10s and i didn't see an option anywhere to buy with a credit card. CAN ANYONE HELP ME?