SoundSplinter

I am getting a Rl-P 15" for my car and the only problem I am running into is making a box shape that will be able to slide into my trunk. A box shape I found that will work is a right triangle with internal dimensions of 16x31 with a hypotenuse of 34.9". The question I have is will the driver be too deep and make contact with the hypotenuse at any points? Also I would like to know if a right triangle shaped enclosure will get worse sound than a sealed cube enclosure?

Hi! I will be running either 3 12's or 2 15's supremes,what would be the best amps for those subs?

I'm trying to understand ported boxes and trying to find somthing i'll like for my 12" RL-p D2 thats powered with 600watts. What would be the difference between a ported box that is 1.75@32hz VS one that is 2.0@27hz? or one that is even at 2.0@32hz? Which one would u go for? I'm confused with box size and tuning freq. Thanks for any help you may give

I was wondering how much would it cost for two 12 inch RL-Ps to ship 39773?

http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread....9400#post989400

I bought a crappy little spl meter at wal mart and gave it a run. I have a single rlp dual 4 runnin at 2 ohms and 800 watts. I played a 50 hz test tone and it hit 129.2 db at the dash. I have no sound deadener or anything yet. Is that a good reading? And how long do you play a test tone in a comp for spl? Im just wonering how loud it can get. I would imagine i could get at least 130 out of it.....I just dont know.

Well I decided to enter a double point USACi...So I entered in the Stock 0-300. So I go through on my first pass and pull a 139.6 on a sweep, I peaked at 40hz. On my second pass I pulled off a 141.0 off of! Not bad for 2 sealed Rl-ps 1200 watts. ended up taking 3rd place. But the guys that beat me were using cadence cheater amps and 2 15s in large ported enclosures... But anyways here were the results from my class 1st-141.7 2nd-141.5 3rd-141.0 (me) 4th and down were like 138 and lower but a local competitor (matt sibley) gave me some tips and hopefully Ill get some decent sized gains out of them...next comp im shooting for 142. Anyways thanks Mike For making a Great …

Hey guys, I'm new to this site. I'm about to buy an RL-P 12, but I'm not sure whether to get the D4 or the D2. What's the difference? Does my car have anything to do with it? If it does, I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry. Also, the amplifier that was recommended to me is this one = Audiobahn A8000T, is that a good choice? Also, I need a box for it, what would be a good box to get? Is it hard to build one? Thanks a lot guys, Chris

Hi I have 1 RE SE 12 in a ported box(30) with 500 watts .I want to take up a little less room and I found out about the RL-i 8s and 10s and was thinking about switching over. I will be running a PG X600.1 to the subs. How do you think 2 of these 8s or 10s would compare to the 12 I have now. Thanks for your help. MikeJ

Yesterday I drove my car through one of those touch free car washes cuz I was lazy. Well today I opened up my trunk and saw grey spots splattered all over my box. Somehow the water from the car wash got in my trunk. I look at my sub and the cone is discolored from whatever was used to wash my car. The middle of the cone where the water was sitting is very faded and when the sub hit, the water splattered all over the cone. Does anyone know a way that I could take all the color out of the cone so the whole cone will be the same color? The cone looks horrible right now. Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Matt

I have been thinking about getting the RL-p15, but I do not know what amp to get. The amp that I am looking at is the Hifonics BX1500D. Would the 1500 rms @ 1ohm be too much for the sub even with the gains turned way down? Or I can get 1000 rms @ 2 ohm. What would you recommend? Scott

im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more power

where u at mike???? you on vacation or something? we needa talk about stuff!

Is there any that SS makes???

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/SoundSplinter/rli8.1.wmv

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…

ok so i have my car finished and very happy with it, but now i have an rl-p 12 sitting on a shelf doing nothing. my car is a toyota previa (big socca mom type ride) and my sub amp is an orion2500d) just for fun i want to build another box for when i just want to get stupid (my daily driver box is 2 x prototype soundsplinter 8s sealed) space is almost not an issue, i could probably get 4 x 4 x 4 feet (32 cubic feet?)in there easy. so whats a good box to build just for pure stupid bass factor when i want to go for a cruise with my bros? what dimensions and port area would be good. any ideas....stupid ideas

so im done with my daily driver and lovin it, but i have this rl-p 12 on a shelf now, so im thinking about a fun box just for going cruiseing occasionally away from my home area and haveing some fun.my car is a toyota previa (soccer mom type ride) with all the space you could ever want, unlimited, up to 32 cubic feet easy. and an orion 2500d @2 ohms (dual 4 ohm rl-p) gives 1400 wrms. what box would you build, not a daily driver just a fun box to get stupid with bass occasionally

Is it clipping? Took the sub out, and it still made that sound on lower volumes. It's not bottoming out for sure, but what the hell can cause it? I'm using the same box and amp that I had in my old car, and it worked like a charm then.

Someone on another forum is building me a box for 90 shipped and I was wondering if the specs he gave me will be alright? Thanks!! 38" width and 16" height so that your box fits flush with the sides and top of your trunk... The depth comes out to 17"... which makes your net volume 3 cubic feet after driver and port displacements. your port is 3" wide, 14.4" high (making port area 43.5") and 43" long (this is VERY long but makes your tuning 28, which will sound amazing)

i have one question : how long is the voice coil on the rl-i 10 ? i managed to find on the internet a scaled 'technical' drawing and by my measurements, it's 45mm long. someone on a diffrent forum asked about the coil length and i want to give him a right answer

Just saying hi, and I hope everyone enjoys the subs. -Kyle

I currently have a A2400DB power acoustic pushing my 2 15"s. With that amp they are getting about 900w rms each @ 1ohm. I was thinking about getting the A3000DB that would give them about 1200w rms each @ 1 ohm. Would they be ok with this much power??

I had only tried one RL-p 12 in my truck, due to enclosure size limitations, so the second one has been sitting on a shelf calling my name since the group buy last year. I finally decided to build a box for both of them which is 1.60 CF net with 1.5 pounds of polyfill and downfired. That is the largest enclosure that will fit. While 0.80 net per sub is well under the optimum size, the subs still sound surprisingly good. To test the box I used my usual selection of the IASCA test disk, test tones off EMNB, some Dave Matthews Band and a little Van Morrison. I am incredibly impressed with the RL-p and find it to be one of the best sounding subs before you even begin the…