SoundSplinter

I have been thinking about getting the RL-p15, but I do not know what amp to get. The amp that I am looking at is the Hifonics BX1500D. Would the 1500 rms @ 1ohm be too much for the sub even with the gains turned way down? Or I can get 1000 rms @ 2 ohm. What would you recommend? Scott

So I made the switch from one SX12, sealed (scary i know) to two RL-i8s currently sealed in my regular cab truck and need some help getting some more output from the little boogers... my amp is a 81000d and the 8s are D4 wired to 4 ohms to the amp since its unmodded, so I figure about 300 watts a piece on em. The box is sealed right at 1ft^3 net between the 2 seats. I am not competing or anything just looking for some nice LSQ (which these 8s sound great) but I am hoping that you guys can help me with a box design that will get a lot louder. Would it be possible to use a ported box (maybe using round ports) that has sort of a " T " shape to it, going between the fron…

Well I decided to enter a double point USACi...So I entered in the Stock 0-300. So I go through on my first pass and pull a 139.6 on a sweep, I peaked at 40hz. On my second pass I pulled off a 141.0 off of! Not bad for 2 sealed Rl-ps 1200 watts. ended up taking 3rd place. But the guys that beat me were using cadence cheater amps and 2 15s in large ported enclosures... But anyways here were the results from my class 1st-141.7 2nd-141.5 3rd-141.0 (me) 4th and down were like 138 and lower but a local competitor (matt sibley) gave me some tips and hopefully Ill get some decent sized gains out of them...next comp im shooting for 142. Anyways thanks Mike For making a Great …

im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more power

http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/SoundSplinter/rli8.1.wmv

where u at mike???? you on vacation or something? we needa talk about stuff!

so im done with my daily driver and lovin it, but i have this rl-p 12 on a shelf now, so im thinking about a fun box just for going cruiseing occasionally away from my home area and haveing some fun.my car is a toyota previa (soccer mom type ride) with all the space you could ever want, unlimited, up to 32 cubic feet easy. and an orion 2500d @2 ohms (dual 4 ohm rl-p) gives 1400 wrms. what box would you build, not a daily driver just a fun box to get stupid with bass occasionally

ok so i have my car finished and very happy with it, but now i have an rl-p 12 sitting on a shelf doing nothing. my car is a toyota previa (big socca mom type ride) and my sub amp is an orion2500d) just for fun i want to build another box for when i just want to get stupid (my daily driver box is 2 x prototype soundsplinter 8s sealed) space is almost not an issue, i could probably get 4 x 4 x 4 feet (32 cubic feet?)in there easy. so whats a good box to build just for pure stupid bass factor when i want to go for a cruise with my bros? what dimensions and port area would be good. any ideas....stupid ideas

Is it clipping? Took the sub out, and it still made that sound on lower volumes. It's not bottoming out for sure, but what the hell can cause it? I'm using the same box and amp that I had in my old car, and it worked like a charm then.

Yesterday I drove my car through one of those touch free car washes cuz I was lazy. Well today I opened up my trunk and saw grey spots splattered all over my box. Somehow the water from the car wash got in my trunk. I look at my sub and the cone is discolored from whatever was used to wash my car. The middle of the cone where the water was sitting is very faded and when the sub hit, the water splattered all over the cone. Does anyone know a way that I could take all the color out of the cone so the whole cone will be the same color? The cone looks horrible right now. Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Matt

I bought a crappy little spl meter at wal mart and gave it a run. I have a single rlp dual 4 runnin at 2 ohms and 800 watts. I played a 50 hz test tone and it hit 129.2 db at the dash. I have no sound deadener or anything yet. Is that a good reading? And how long do you play a test tone in a comp for spl? Im just wonering how loud it can get. I would imagine i could get at least 130 out of it.....I just dont know.

I currently have a A2400DB power acoustic pushing my 2 15"s. With that amp they are getting about 900w rms each @ 1ohm. I was thinking about getting the A3000DB that would give them about 1200w rms each @ 1 ohm. Would they be ok with this much power??

i have one question : how long is the voice coil on the rl-i 10 ? i managed to find on the internet a scaled 'technical' drawing and by my measurements, it's 45mm long. someone on a diffrent forum asked about the coil length and i want to give him a right answer

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…

I had only tried one RL-p 12 in my truck, due to enclosure size limitations, so the second one has been sitting on a shelf calling my name since the group buy last year. I finally decided to build a box for both of them which is 1.60 CF net with 1.5 pounds of polyfill and downfired. That is the largest enclosure that will fit. While 0.80 net per sub is well under the optimum size, the subs still sound surprisingly good. To test the box I used my usual selection of the IASCA test disk, test tones off EMNB, some Dave Matthews Band and a little Van Morrison. I am incredibly impressed with the RL-p and find it to be one of the best sounding subs before you even begin the…

here is a link to a better vid of my rl-p on realm of excursion. This sub is moving its ass off!! Please tell me if you think i am pushin her too hard!!! thanks. Mike you should enjoy this. http://realmofexcursion.com/videos/SoundSplinter/rlp12.4.wmv

Hey guys, I'm new to this site. I'm about to buy an RL-P 12, but I'm not sure whether to get the D4 or the D2. What's the difference? Does my car have anything to do with it? If it does, I drive a 2000 Toyota Camry. Also, the amplifier that was recommended to me is this one = Audiobahn A8000T, is that a good choice? Also, I need a box for it, what would be a good box to get? Is it hard to build one? Thanks a lot guys, Chris

i need help designing a TL box for my rl-i 8 to go under the seat of my silverado. i've finally decided upon this as what i want to do... i will give it 500wrms from a memphis mc500d..... mike or kyle...HELLLLLPPPP!! will a 3" round port be enough or will that even work? i want to keep it lookin like a typical ported box, but ala bose wavelength...i want a good number without sacrificing sq...i need to prove a point to a friend who says the only loud 8 is the L7... i look forward to replies.....i'll get some measurements after i get the rear seat back in (took the 18 solo x and ma audio hk4000d out). let me know what kinda room i need and stuff...please...and i'll foreve…

picshere is a vid of my rlp on putfile!!

140.9 On the termlab. Here's a little bit of background. I got the 8s in and they look awesome. I threw them in a box that is 1.4 cf net, .95 cf after port, 35 hz, and 15 square inches of port. I decided that they won't fit in my car so a friend of mine took them off of my hands. I built the box for his mustang, but it fit in my hatch and he let me borrow them for a week. I got it metered tonight and it did that in the kick with the door cracked. It did a 138.5 sealed up on the dash. We only played with it for like 10 minutes and didnt even move the box around. This box isn't a burp box either. It sounds awesome and plays really low. These 8s have a usable low end exte…

Someone on another forum is building me a box for 90 shipped and I was wondering if the specs he gave me will be alright? Thanks!! 38" width and 16" height so that your box fits flush with the sides and top of your trunk... The depth comes out to 17"... which makes your net volume 3 cubic feet after driver and port displacements. your port is 3" wide, 14.4" high (making port area 43.5") and 43" long (this is VERY long but makes your tuning 28, which will sound amazing)

will be a few days till i get powr to her

I am currently runnign 2 13kv2's sealed with about 450 per sub. I metered it at about 132 in the trunk of my Altima. i am wanting more output and am lookign at goign with 2 12RL-ps in a ported box with about 700 per sub. Will I see a noticable difference in output? Just wondering if spending the $450 bucks for new subs will be worth it.

i asked a friend of mine who is very knowledgable with car audio (but puts a lot of stock in modeling programs, which i dont) to help me with the port designs on my box. i was shooting for a 4 ft^3 @30 hz box, when i asked him about it, this is the reply i got. he recommends 33hz, but i was shooting for 30 because i want this to hit LOW. To be honest with you, I think 4 cubes for those 2 subs is too big. The Qts on these subs is so low, that they really want a smaller box. I found that 1.5 cubes (each) tuned to 33hz gives a nice flat response. With the 1.5 cubes per sub (3 cubes total), you'd need 2 4" ports at 17.4" long each, or 3 3" ports at 15" long each. If you jump…