SoundSplinter

I know the rl-p's are solid LSQ drivers, but just how much is the split between sq and spl? I used to have a pair of L7 12's and was happy with the spl, but not as happy with the sq. I liked those subs and since both are around the same price range, i was wondering how the rlp's would compare to the L7's spl-wise thanks

Finally found a RL-i8 for sale but it is a D4. I have been gifted a Audison VRX 1.500 from my cousin. The amp puts out 500 watts into 4 ohms and 1000 watts into 2 ohms. The sub will be used in a sealed enlosure built with SQ as the most important quality. SPL is NOT a concern of mine. Ideally a single 4 ohm driver with 500 watts would be ideal but I haven't been able to find one. So is 1000 watts too much for a RL-i8 D4?

I continue to go back and forth with which box size and tuning frequency to go with for my new box I am building. I was hoping to get some opinions from any and all of you that have had experiences with the Rl-p 12 D4. Right now I am torn between going with a bigger box size of around 2.5 cubes and tuning it @ 28 or 29........ or going with a box a bit smaller, in the 2.0 - 2.25 ramge tuned @ 30 or 32 Hz. Anybody have any suggestions or opinions for me......PLEASE!!!! This will be going in a Tahoe and my listening habits are mainly rap with a little bitt of rock and alternative mixed it...... but I would say at least 90% rap. Not sure if that matters, but I figured I…

Who makes Soundsplinter?

my speakers are wired together at 1 ohm, and they've never been hooked up independently. just one of them will pop if i play really heavy bass and turn it up, when it reaches full excursion, but the other one never does. i've been using my deck boost at +5, turned up to 26/35, with the amp up all the way and amp bass boost off. if i was giving them too much power, shouldnt they both be popping? i dont know if it was doing it when i first hooked it up, i hadnt played it at full volume with the hatch open until today. it isnt noticeable if im inside the car, the bass overwhelms it. i've been keeping my deck turned down to 23-25 so that it doesnt do it, but id like to be abl…

ookay i was givin this some thought.... if mike is able to special order a blank cone to sign for me, should i have 1 rlp, 2 cubes ported to 32hz w/800w goin into it, or have a dual RLp 1-1.2kw/piece at 1cube sealed (prolly with some pollyfill) im gonna use the same box no matter what: IMO the dual RL-ps would look way hotter, but would there be THAT much acoustical difference? mike said they would be similar, what do you think? the dual setup also gives me an excuse to run an AX2000

i figured out why my porn looked kinda crappy...it was the way i streamed it onto my computer...i did it again tonite @ 40fps and it looks amazing:D to bad none of you can see it, it ended up being 1.3 Gb :eek: but i captured a couple pics from the video that look pretty cool.....

i have 2 x rl-p 12s but have the oppertunity to get an rl-s 12, which do you think will be more fun off an orion 2500d? id have to sell the rl-ps to buy the rl-s how dyu think the rl-s will perform off an orion 2500d? no competeing just daily driver.

Wassup guys, i finally joined this forum. Well, i sold my system about two weeks ago to get a new phone and now i'm starting to REALLY miss bass. I have two system plans so far for my scion xb and I need y'all to help me out. 3 Rl-i8's with a hifonics xx hercules (recieving about 400w each) Or 2 rl-p12's with ed nine.1 Which one should i get?

Cliffnots for those who dont like to hear me blab: 2 12" RLP dual 2 ohm. Pre-built 3.3cuft box. (single cab silverado) To port, or not to port? If ported, will be 2x 4" ports, how long? Polyfill? SQ is the main concern, but spl should follow. Infinite power available. (almost) I suck at math. WinIsd hates me. My cat's breath smells like cat food ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just put in my order for a pair of 12" rlp dual 2ohms. I have a couple questions regarding my enclosure... They will be installed in my silverado single cab. I already have an enclosure built, its size comes out to about 3.3 cu ft, which is pretty damn big…

I made a 2.1 cu.ft. after displacement sealed enclosure for my rl-p 15 that I heard someone recommend. It does sound really good but I am unsure if i should have used polyfil as well and how much? thanks

its weird. i play Young Bloodz - Presidential Tish and when it hits that low note, the sub moves like a mother, like ALOT but barely any bass comes out of it. is it because my box is sealed and the f3 is too high for that note? or is it something else? btw its an rlp 2.0 cubes sealed with 800w

Well I joined the forum here just to learn about SoundSplinter Subs. I have a few questions When did soundsplinter start? Any info on production processes. What

Just like the title says does anyone have any first hand experience with the prototype TC Sounds LMT drivers. What were they like first hand? What size was it and what would you compare it to from your own experience? I am trying to figure out if the SS LMT is gonna really be a viable single woofer solution for me or if I should go with a dual setup of lesser woofers. Thanks Jerry

Just wondering I think that I would probably buy a set just to play with and they would be for lack of a better term retarded loud and clean

I started out with 5^3 @30Hz for 2 15's per Mike from SS. SQ was excellent and lows were amazing. I consider this my reference box. Then I went to 5.8^3 @35Hz. Was shooting for 6^3 @ 34Hz, but did some goofy math at 2am. Subs had more punch in the mid/upper bass, but lacked low end compared to the "ref" box. It was definitely louder, but lacked impact. I tried it for 2 days and didn't care for it. I extended the ports and ended up with 5.4^3 @ 32Hz. I consider this the ultimate tune for LSQ. Plenty of deep lows, loud as he!!, and still very articulate and musical. Kick drums literally beat the car to death. Thank god for the 150#'s of sound deadener I have in there, but…

I got a SS 12" RL-p and found a ported box design (from aneonrider) and want to try building it, but i'm having some trouble understanding it. Here is the cut sheet Cut Sheet 32.000 x 13.750 Top 32.000 x 13.750 Bottom 15.000 x 13.750 Sides 28.500 x 15.000 Front 30.500 x 15.000 Back 11.000 x 15.000 Port 1 25.000 x 15.000 Port 2 3.500 x 15.000 Port 3 I tried drawing it out but i don't understand the ports and spacing, can someone explain it to me? also what is port displacement? The box is suppose to be 2'^3 tuned to 28hz Port Displacement 0.226 Length 1 0.460 Length 2 0.095 Length 3 0.257 Wood 1.038 Total Thanks for viewing and much more thanks for helping

I first built a 1.7 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 32hz for my RL-p 12 and it handled my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 with no problems at all. This weekend I built a 1.4 ft^3 sealed box which would give me 1.28 ft^3 net after sub displacement. The problem is that my amp easily overpowers the RL-p causing it to emit some less than favorable sounds when I turn it up. I then put it in a 1.13 ft^3 box (net), which helped some but I still cannot crank it. The enclosure specs say I should be using 1.0 ft^3 or less but then I read on here that 1.25 was the ideal amount of air space for this sub. What would be the ideal size box for the RL-p with 1200 watts RMS? Any help w…

http://www.soundsplinter.com/images/videos...-RLi10-porn.WMV The above video was taken in low light with a camera I'm unfamiliar with. Hopefully in the future I will master that damn camera and get some clearer pictures up here. The woofer in the picture is running in a sealed enclosure with another RL-i10, off of a bridged Pioneer amplifier feeding each woofer approximately 190 wrms. The volume on the Pioneer head unit during the video is at approximately 50% - I'll get something more impressive up here sometime soon Well now that we've been up and running solid for a few months, I know there's others out there with these bad boys. So.. Where the hell are the pic's?…

a happy face!!! is that possible mike?

Factory recommendations: Acceptable: 0.4 - 0.95 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 - 1.2 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 22 - 36 Hz Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.45 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 27 Hz I notice that the optimal vented box is smaller than the optimal sealed. I was thinking going sealed b/c of space issues but if going ported will really be smaller should I do this. Im also thinking aero ports and need some information on how to calculate what size I would need to tune to 27 hz. Does anyone own an rl-i if so what kind of box is it in?

Ok, I've decided that I want to go with a set of Rl-p's. Either way I go, I have enough room for the recommended enclosure sizes. They will be powered by an eD Nine.1. The problem is, do I go with 15's or 12's? I listen to mainly rap, and I want it to wang hard. However, I do listen to classic rock from time to time. Maybe you guys can help me decide on 12's or 15's? Thanks, Ry

Hey, Im new in this forum I am trying to find out if there is a dealer that carries SS RL-p15 in Canada, or is there only one place to get this beast - The One and Only SS Website. I WANT IT !!!!!!! Im in Ontario, Canada so if there is anyone that can help me out, or has a brand new RL-p15 for sale close to me, i will be more than glad to pick it up. Thank you

Ok, I just purchased the new 18" RL-p (D4). The problem I have is the only amp I have is an Orion 2500d. It'll do 1800w rms @ 2ohm. The 18" is rated at 1000-1200w rms (I think). Would I be ok with turning down the gains? I dont have another amp at this time. I do plan on sending in an RE 12.1 amp I have in great condition to get fixed. It "rattles" when you move it. When I bought it, I was told that it was BNIB. When I opened it, it was making the rattling noise. The guy I bought it from wont return my PM's, emails, calls, etc. Any info on how I can make it work would be great. Thx guys, Vic.

Hmmm tryin to make a decision on which ones would be louder/have deeper bass..im lookin for LSQ...and im looking for the bass that wows the friends but also hits low to vibrate your seats...just tryin to get some opinions...i would most likely get the DD used for cheaper than the 2 RL-p's...TIA