SoundSplinter

Would it be possible to change a dual 4ohm RL-P12 to dual 2 ohm? If so, how much would it cost?

Hi everyone, quick question...i have a 12" rl-p D4 and want to make a ported enclosure while maintaining the BEST SQ I can (if it makes any difference, I listen mainly to rock). I was told 1.5 cubes tuned to 28 hz. Does this sound accurate?

I'm keeping my 18", and starting on another box for it this weekend. My max dementions are 17" tall-38"wide-25" deep. That gives me just over 7.5cubes to play with. I'm going ported, and I was just trying to figure out what would be best; flaired or slotted?

Well, I'm looking to do some audio work on a '99 Integra 4-door which I recently picked up. After hearing many good things about Sound Splinter, I figure I'd give their products a try. I have been a user of RE, eD, SI, IA, RF, JL, etc. Keep in mind that I love to listen to rap with loud and low bass for demo'ing (Lil Jon, Ying Yang Twins, Three 6 Mafia, etc.) as well as Bass Mekanik/Bass 305 and some trance. I actually play my music low most of the time...just crank it up for certain occasions. Power-wise, I'll probably be feeding the subs' around 1200-2000 watts. Oh yeah, anyone with an Integra 4-door, is it possible to stuff two the RL-p 15's ported? Thanks! P.S. - I…

Hi again guys. Well I got my HU and 4-channel amp all installed so that leaves me with the sub and sub amp now. Originally I was going to go for a 10" Rl-i, but I would REALLY like to fit a 12" Rl-p into my single cab (1999 F-150). I took a few measurements and it looks like it will work. Tight, but it should work. It can either be forward facing, or down firing Questions... 1) How much space is reccommended to be left around the edge of the sub when mounting it? 2) How much space does the magnet need from the back of the box? 3) Is there a big sound difference between a forward facing sub and a down-firing one? 4) How much space should I leave in front of the …

if the rl-s is a 4ohm svc woofer... how would you guys suggest powering this beast. bridging a 2 channel amp is the best i can come up with. Any name brands to look at...

im getting a t3000bd would this be to much for 4 rl-p's

some very nice HT set ups with SoundSplinter,

Ok, quick history...the blazer I am fixin to buy from my friend has a box the we (he & I) built about 9 years ago in it. It is an iso. enclosure with 2-jl 10's. I like the box because it takes up minimal space in the back of the s10 blazer. He has an old alpine v12 (like the first ones that came out) running the 2 jl's, and it hits crazy hard. SO, since I dont want no stinkn 9 year old jl's, I am gonna sell the rl-p12, and get 2 rl-i 10's. I would like to re-build that enclosure, but, would the rl-i's dig it? (using the rl-i specs of course) Powerd by the mcd1000d Opinions....

I was going to post this in the Show Off forum, but it won't let me. Rather than copying what I've already posted elsewhere, I'll just give you the link: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-visu...I AM A-sirius.html It's a pretty long write up, but lots of pictures.

alright well i have been contemplating getting an rl-p 12 and porting at something pretty low like 20 hz for home audio use. putting about 540 watts to it. im starting to wonder if this would be overkill, and if i should go with an rl-i with alil less power. i also wanted to know if there was someone who could draw me up some plans, or at least someone i could talk to about plans. thanks yall.

Well I took apart the stereo in my old car so I can transfer into my new car...and I was looking at the sub and noticed some slight oxidation on the pole piece. So I took out some leftover Eagle 1 Never-Dull and went to work. Came out pretty nice. Also re-ran the bridge wires on the 'inside' so it'll hug closer to the magnet and have a cleaner look.I gotta go back and redo some of the area near the magnet boot though.

I posted this over in the USAmps forum but got no response. For the sake of not crossposting I'll just link to it. Please respond there. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...c=16571&hl=

Just wondering where is SoundSplinter located and if it is possible to pick up a sub in person to save on shipping costs. Also, I have an '01 Accord sedan and I'm thinking of going with a single RL-p 18" driver. It will be pushed by a DLS A6 at 1 ohm (1200w). Is it better to go sealed or ported? I just took out my DD 9515 and the enclosure for that is 5.5 cubes net I believe. I really want to get loud when needed. I did a 140.4 recently with a Kicker ZX 2500.1 so I'm looking to get into the 140's with the RL-p on the A6. Is it possible? Comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. I'm either gonna use the RL-p 18 or a 12" Brahma MKI. Brahma will be gettin same power …

Well my buddy has a Diamond CM3 in a Prefab (ewwww) ported box which from what I calculated is tuned to about 38 hz running off a Memphis St500d giving it 500 watts at 2 ohms... soooo I got him to drop my Rl-P in it and whaaaam it slaams. Its much louder than his CM3 and my old trio of 12w0s sealed but it just plays all the notes with such ease. I didnt expect too much from the sub with 500 watts and in this box but it sounds pretty darn good. I cant wait to get them in my lower tuned box with 2 x the cone area and 5 x the power (for burps mostly) But yeah everything on his Accord flexes, back window, side fenders of the body, front windshield flexes a lil bit. The…

I am planning on getting a soundsplinter rl-p 12in dvc 2ohm sub. I want to get a ported box but don't really want to make it myself. Does nayone know where i can buy one for a good price? Thanks dudes.. BTW, What kinda of box do you use with your sub? How does it sound?

Added this to my build log with a bunch of pics, but I thought the SoundSplinter fans need some fresh posts in here. eM28sy7Gj-8

Everything I have heard about these subs so far has been positive. I want to give them a go in my new setup, but I might have a problem. Tell me what you think. I have a regular cab 1999 F-150 so I am limited on space. With the area I have to work with I can build a box that has an internal volume of just under .83 ft^3. Im not sure how much of that is taken up by the sub itself. Do I need more airspace or is this enough? I prefer SQ to SPL so I was planning on building a sealed enclosure, but am open to a vented enclosure if the sound would be better overall. I will most likely be using a Mono Block Memphis amp pushing around 500W @ 2ohms if that helps any. Thanks i…

Two questions: I was wondering if it is ok to slightly overpower this pair of DVC subs in a small sealed box. I have an MB Quart RAA2400 amp that feeds 400w RMS x2 @ 2 ohms (maybe underrated also..) Also, since my amp feeds 400w x 2 @ 2 ohms, I can wire these DVC 4ohm subs so that my amp sees a load of 2 ohms in each channel... right? Thanks in advance!

Just put in my 12" Rl-p it pounds. But what settings should I set my amplifer to? Alpine MRD-M605 600WRMS x 1 @ 2ohms 1.21 cu. ft. internal volume Here are the settings that are available, as per the user manual: Crossover Frequency Adjustment Knob Permits adjustment of the crossover frequency, by rotating the knob to select any frequency between 30 to 200 Hz as the crossover point. 9 Lowpass Filter Slope Selector Switch The Lowpass Filter slope can be set for either 12dB/oct. or 24dB/oct.. it does sound very nice, but i was hoping the bass would be tighter. so im thinking about getting a ported box from circuit city or something just to see how it sounds. any recomendati…

I finally took the plunge and ordered a pair of RL-i10's to replace my single 12" Polk SR124. I'm designing the box for a false floor with the 2 10's inline next to each other. How much space should i leave under the woofer. The mounting depth says 5.55". Would 6" from the face of the box to the back(inside) be sufficient? What is the minium you would recommend? I will be throwing a max of 400 watts at each sub in a sealed enclosure of .65 cubic feet net. Is a 3/4 thick enclosure really necessary with this small of an enclosure? Or can I get away with 5/8 or 1/2"?

i was thinking of getting one 12w6v2 and putting it in a sealed enclosure of about 1.25 cu. ft. This would be powerd by a nine.1 at a 2 ohm load giving a max of 900w, I will probably give it much less by adjusting gains. however now i am thinking of getting one 12" rl-p. what type of enclosure would you recommend to get the best sq out of this beast. would this sq match that of the 12w6v2 or get even close? by the way the 12" rl-p will be wired in a 1 ohm load to a nine.1 which could give it a max of 1200w but I probably wont give it that much. also can I assume that the 1 12" rl-p will have greater SPL then 1 12W6v2 when placed in similiar situations?

Hi all, I am in the market for a system and have decided on Soundsplinter...Here's is my dilemma: Car will be 2002 Honda Accord Coupe, and here is what I have planned: HU: Pioneer DEHP9600 $400 Front: Rainbow SLC Kickbass 6.5" Comp 280 Rear Fill: some decent 6x9 100 4-ch amp: PG Xenon 100x4 (100wx4 @ 4 ohm) 300 Sub amp: Kicker zx750.1 300 Sub: Soundsplinter I was gonna go with 1 12" Rl-p w~ 750W after reading many positive reviews from caraudio forum. I want clean, tight, distortion free bass with decent output (used to have a…

Hi everyone finally ordered my sub... see this thread http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=2502 my amp is a 350Watt Rythmik audio plate amp the sub will be used for both HT and music 50/50. I wld like a ported box tuned low. BTW, 4" ports are quite hard to come by in my country....is there likely to be chuffing if i use an ordinary piece of PVC piping regards

OK, so after many months of procrastinating, I finally got around to building it. Now keep in mind when looking at these pix, it's far from done. This was a quick build to make it to a show. I still have a lot of the "beauty" trim to put up, wires to clean up, and tuning to do to the amps. So with that being said, it's on to the pix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This was my old setup The new build My door panels with 2 MAW 6.5"s & 2 Fusion Power Plant Tweeters to each door Be genital with the remarks & comments, lol. I know it's not a "true" wall, but I go through so many ideas that I wanted to be able to take it out later, lol.