SoundSplinter

Ok, I just purchased the new 18" RL-p (D4). The problem I have is the only amp I have is an Orion 2500d. It'll do 1800w rms @ 2ohm. The 18" is rated at 1000-1200w rms (I think). Would I be ok with turning down the gains? I dont have another amp at this time. I do plan on sending in an RE 12.1 amp I have in great condition to get fixed. It "rattles" when you move it. When I bought it, I was told that it was BNIB. When I opened it, it was making the rattling noise. The guy I bought it from wont return my PM's, emails, calls, etc. Any info on how I can make it work would be great. Thx guys, Vic.

Well the topic pretty much sums it up. After having (2) RL-P 12" in a car for several years I have decided to put the subs inside the house. This frees up the space restrictions, and I have been enticed to build a ported box. So with all the experience most of you guys have on this board, I would appreciate some feedback or advice on building a ported box. Here is some info about what i got/need -I listen to mainly rap/R&B -Would like a strong balance between Home Theatre Use and Music listening -I will be using a EP2500 Amplifier (This gives me 500 watts if I run it at 8 ohms or 1200 watts if i choose to run it at 2 ohm) I would prefer to run it off 8 ohms and r…

sup guys i'm new to the forum, i've been reading alot about SS and their P series line, i saw that their was a group buy for it, i was wondering how would these subs do in a ported box 6cf tuned to 28hz, i'm lookin to buy 3 of the 12" rl-p in dual 2 ohm, i will be pushing them with a orion 2500d so they will get about 700-800..... is this recommended.......

I was wondering if anyone has used a rl-p 15 in a horn enclosure? this is for home audio... i wanted to try and build a horn enclosure for one, but so far what ive read it doesnt seem to be a suitable enclosure for this sub

I made a 2.1 cu.ft. after displacement sealed enclosure for my rl-p 15 that I heard someone recommend. It does sound really good but I am unsure if i should have used polyfil as well and how much? thanks

I have been thinking about getting the RL-p15, but I do not know what amp to get. The amp that I am looking at is the Hifonics BX1500D. Would the 1500 rms @ 1ohm be too much for the sub even with the gains turned way down? Or I can get 1000 rms @ 2 ohm. What would you recommend? Scott

I was originally going to go sealed 2.1 cuft enclosure for a pair of Soundsplinter RL-p 15"s from my box builder. However, he worked out the specs and told me a 4th order bandpass would work better and worked out a response curve. What do you think? Will this work better for Sound quality purposes? The yellow line is the response for sealed 2.1 cuft and the teal is bandpass response. He didn't give me any enclosure size details except the exterior dimensions... " The dimensions you will want to know about are 31"d, 41"w, 18"h at the front, 4" high at the back, and the horizontal part of the box extends 10.75" from the front, which is the depth needed for the sealed cham…

I bought a crappy little spl meter at wal mart and gave it a run. I have a single rlp dual 4 runnin at 2 ohms and 800 watts. I played a 50 hz test tone and it hit 129.2 db at the dash. I have no sound deadener or anything yet. Is that a good reading? And how long do you play a test tone in a comp for spl? Im just wonering how loud it can get. I would imagine i could get at least 130 out of it.....I just dont know.

ugly ? yes, ghetto, yes sound good yes, all came out today to go in the new ride?....................yes. :dancingsmilie: :musik05:

I continue to go back and forth with which box size and tuning frequency to go with for my new box I am building. I was hoping to get some opinions from any and all of you that have had experiences with the Rl-p 12 D4. Right now I am torn between going with a bigger box size of around 2.5 cubes and tuning it @ 28 or 29........ or going with a box a bit smaller, in the 2.0 - 2.25 ramge tuned @ 30 or 32 Hz. Anybody have any suggestions or opinions for me......PLEASE!!!! This will be going in a Tahoe and my listening habits are mainly rap with a little bitt of rock and alternative mixed it...... but I would say at least 90% rap. Not sure if that matters, but I figured I…

well I was gonna wait till I got my second power acousik A3000DB so I can tell you how it sounds w/ some real power but I'm getting antsy an wanna show off. So w/o further adou... box in the making another bracing heres the speaker hole and hole for interchangable port and final assembly And for the grand finally! here is a 4"x8" port tuned to 45hz to see what this can do off of the little bit of power however now one of the hurrican nuts came loose from the back and got stuck but I just fixed that today and now w/ some liquid nails holding them in place I'm hoping it will work. but now I have to make a new port since I kinda broke this one trying to get it off BTW…

Factory recommendations: Acceptable: 0.4 - 0.95 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 - 1.2 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 22 - 36 Hz Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.45 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 27 Hz I notice that the optimal vented box is smaller than the optimal sealed. I was thinking going sealed b/c of space issues but if going ported will really be smaller should I do this. Im also thinking aero ports and need some information on how to calculate what size I would need to tune to 27 hz. Does anyone own an rl-i if so what kind of box is it in?

Right now I have, one Rl-p running 1000 watts, and even though it hits really nice, I think I am missing something, the sq is nice, but I think is still a little weak as far as lows go. People from outside the car dont even know the sub is nice. Dont get me wrong, I dont want to show off, but I want to know if is normal of the Rl-p. I have a sealed box, 1.25cf. Also I would like to know if I would see a big difference by adding another 12, Would it be night and day difference? What do you guys suggest to run if I want lows, is better to run a ported box if I have 2 subs, and if yes what size should it be?

Recently purchased a used RLP 15, and have my eye on another one online. I have a friend whos going to build me a nice ported box for the subs, but until I can get the rest of the money for that, I wanted to try it sealed based on the reviews I have heard. I have a sealed box I had a pair of Kicker Comp VRs in but heres my question. The box is only 1.95 cubic feet per chamber, ( suppose to be 2.0 but is off just a lil bit) I know the displacement of the RLP 15 is 0.18 cubic feet, would I be choking the sub in that box? I thought about inverting it, to save on some space inside the box. This would only be a temp install until I can get my ported box completed. Also, im g…

Has anyone tried a RL-p 12 in a .75 ft^3 box which is the minimum recommended sealed enclosure? Right now I have one RL-p in a 1.15 ft^3 enclosure. I have a second RL-p gathering dust but the largest box I could build would be .77 ft^3 net per sub. Worth building or not

Okay, so my friend just got his ava 18 installed and its purdy loud, I've liked what I've listened to so far. Its on about 1000/1200 RMS. My question is, to get louder should I.... Get an MT 15 ported on 3krms or Get two Rl-p 15s ported on 2krms Also, its pretty much a given that either of those would be louder than his 18...wouldn't ya say? Propsed box for the Rl-P 15s is a true CRX style box, two chambers, subs up, ports back, 2 4" aeros per chamber, 3 cubes net each tuned to 34hz I dunno, when I think Dual 15s CRX style in a hatch...I think LOUD. Thoughts/opinion/ramblings. Just respond...I'm tired...intoxicated, and about to pass out. Yet I still post...YOUR TURN

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…

I am about to get ahold of a Rockford 1501bd which puts out 1500 watts @ 2 ohms...I was just wondering if this would be too much power for the 18" RL-P? I have heard the rating of 1,000 watts is very conservative..

i got a good one today i sealed the port from the inside...so i now have 5 cubes sealed http://www.realmofexcursion.com/vid...ter/rlp15.6.wmv

hey everyone. I just wanted to know what size hole was cut in your enclosure to house a 15" RL-p. If I'm not mistaken on Sound Splinters web page it states that the diameter is 13.85 to the outsid edge of the surround. So what I did was cut out a hole that measured 13.85 inches. I put my sub in the box and it wouldn't fit. the whole was about 1/2 inch too small or more. ten minutes later with my trusty jig saw the sub was in and clearing properly. what measurement did you guys use to install a 15" RL-p?? they should update their web page with the correct mesurements. (or did I miss something?)

hey I just bought 2 12" rlps and I cant wait to get them goin. The thing is I still need to get an amp and I am not sure which to get. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to keep it under 300. Also if someone could help me out with box dimensions as I am thinking of building it myself. I would like to do 2 cubes tuned to 28hz ported. Thanks and I can't wait!!! Denny

well now that i'm in the groupbuy, i need plans to make it work out the best. I currently have a JBL600.1 amp and was planing to use it with the sub. However i see many people going with a ported box and the amp don't have that subsonic filter thing. So what would you recomend me doing? Should i just stay with a prefab 1.25 sealed box that i have already? I want to build a custom ported box for it.... BTW it is going in a sports compact.

Ok so heres the deal, its really complicated to build a box to it in your car and that will allow pvc pipe to be used instead of a slot port. I decided to use a pvc pipe because I read it has advantages over slot ports. Ok heres my question. I need to see what you all think of the box design I have came up with. I'm using .75 mdf. The box is going to be a CRX style box, and I'm trying to make it for decent sound quality. The dimensions are 11x31x24, which is equal to a GBV of 3.4 cubic ft, and a Net box volume of 3.1 Cubic ft. The pvc port is going to be 6 inches wide, and 17.7 inches long, which is supposed to tune it to 33hz, the 6 inches will give it 28.2 cubic inches …

i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?

Here is my 2-12" RL-p install.....went from a single 15" XXX to 2 12" W6V2's and now these. Incredible sound....have yet to really test out the high power because i want to break em in a bit first. But here's the pics..enjoy!! Box is 3.5^3 net@32htz Amps are Autotek MM1400.1 for subs and 100.4 for CDT comps in the kick and Soundstream 3.5"s in the dash.