SoundSplinter

well I was gonna wait till I got my second power acousik A3000DB so I can tell you how it sounds w/ some real power but I'm getting antsy an wanna show off. So w/o further adou... box in the making another bracing heres the speaker hole and hole for interchangable port and final assembly And for the grand finally! here is a 4"x8" port tuned to 45hz to see what this can do off of the little bit of power however now one of the hurrican nuts came loose from the back and got stuck but I just fixed that today and now w/ some liquid nails holding them in place I'm hoping it will work. but now I have to make a new port since I kinda broke this one trying to get it off BTW…

I was wanting to know how much air space would be ideal for me, as I will be putting my newly aquired SS Rl-p in a ported, down-firing box behind the third row seating in a 2007 Chevy Tahoe. I will be powering it with an Alpine PDX 1000.1 mono amp. I listen to 95% Hip-Hop/Rap music and I am real picky with my bass...... I know this will sound so broad and vague that it is not even worth saying...... but I like HARD HITTING bass, but there is a DEFINITE fine line between hard hitting "Quality" bass that is smooth and blends into the music nicely and at the same time can also come out and shake your head when it is called upon...... And then there is the Hard Hard Hard …

hey I just bought 2 12" rlps and I cant wait to get them goin. The thing is I still need to get an amp and I am not sure which to get. If someone could help me out I would greatly appreciate it. I would like to keep it under 300. Also if someone could help me out with box dimensions as I am thinking of building it myself. I would like to do 2 cubes tuned to 28hz ported. Thanks and I can't wait!!! Denny

I am going to be getting an rl-s 12 ... and i need to get an enclosure for it ... i was previously running a rd alpha 15 and im switching over to the rl-s ... i have an 01 focus hatchback and i was thinking a 4 cubed box upfiring now ... amplifier is the issue ... the single 3 ohm limits the amplifier selection so what are most of the people running to it? thanks guys Mike

Any idea when the dual 4 ohm 8's will be available for sale again??

ugly ? yes, ghetto, yes sound good yes, all came out today to go in the new ride?....................yes. :dancingsmilie: :musik05:

im getting a t3000bd would this be to much for 4 rl-p's

hey i was just wondering how many watts rms the "Ultimate Competition series" is gonna be? and around how much is the sub gonna be??? have u guys decided any of this yet?

I've been considering putting a sub into an '00 Integra. Basically I am looking that I suppose what would be called an SQ sub, in that I am not greatly concerned with SPL as I don't listen to music very loudly and I also would prefer to have a near flat frequency response between across the sub and the main speakers. Ok, so I'm doing a little modeling and one thing has me troubled. I see on the SoundSplinter RL-i8 page that the recommended sealed enclosure volume is 0.2 to 0.65 cu ft with optimal car being 0.5 cu ft. From my modeling I'm coming up with about 0.09 cu ft for a Q=0.7 alignment. Is there some reason that I wouldn't want this sort of alignment in a car? I…

well my rl-15 is on the way and im onlky pushin 600 watts to it, and im thinking of porting it. i believe the recommended tuning is 28hz? there are prefab boxes on ebay pretty cheap but tuned to 38hz X_X right now im throwin togethor a ghetto sealed from a dual sealed box i had from my last pair of subs, but i dont plan on keepin that as the permanent home of my oh so sexy rl-p =)

Would the 12" Rl-p perform well infinite baffle? It has a nice low Fs, but the Qts looks a bit low. But, hey, since these model up horribly in box programs, I figure it'd be better to ask than assume/try to model :4123357f3da0f6e125a54:

i have a rl-p 15 and built the recommended 3 cubes sealed box for it. sounds great, just not that great of output. ive always had sealed boxes and my last setup 3 10's jl w3's was louder than this lol. had a bit more cone area but anyway you get my point. since everyone says this sub does better in ported enclosures, i was thinking of just adding 2 4' psp ports tuned to 30hz to the current 3 cube box instead of building a second box like i planned. im not an spl nut at all, i just need something with like (trying not to use the term LSQ here) some sqballs! lol would 3 cubes ported be to small for a 15?

The box is a 1.25 cu ft ported to 30Hz with some 2.5" PVC. Just playing around with box sizes and sealed vs. ported. These lil things really get to moving. Sorry the sound quality of the video isnt very good, I was using my lil sis' cheap digital camera. vid

Thanks Mike for all the help. I got one thing to say about Mike and Soundsplinter BAD ASS service and BAD ASS little (beefy) 8's. I got my subs delivered in one frickin day! Told Mike I wanted two on Monday night, sent him the money on Tuesday night, order confirmed and sent out Wednesday and Thursday I come home from work and they are on my porch. Now that is top notch.

Can anyone give me sond help ? Im planning on makeing a box for one Rl-i8 in a chevy colorado crew cab i want to make this box vented but want to get the air space and frequency perfect to get the most output so that i can compete. I am currently running one 12" RE XXX in a 2 cube box tuned at 28 hertz. all comment will help thanks

Here's what it says on the site....... Optimal Car: 0.5 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 35 Hz Is this right, or should it be the other way around? I thought more space was needed per sub when doing a vented box? I may be wrong, but I thought I would ask. Since my wife sub box is 1.3 sealed currently, I could just use a 3" flared port with that same box, and be fine right?

after talking to a guy on an audio web site i am about ready to buy a rl-p 12,just wanted some basic comparisons between it and a w6? obviously the ss is half the price! anyone familiar with both drivers and able to say what the main differences are?

Hi I am thinking of getting this sub for HT use. I intend to use it with a 350w plate amp, so I require the DVC 2 ohm version. Will the amp power the sub sufficientlly in a ported box? Also, will SS ship to overseas. thanks

Would a us amps usa-200 be a good amp to run a single 12" Rlp? I've heard the amp puts out 600+ at 2 ohms...... assuming the rating is correct (or underrated as most us amps tend to be) it sounds to be a great match. Anyone have any thoguhts?

Click the image below for the VIDEO!!! Enjoy.

Throwing around the idea of 'glassing an 8" midbass, and some 5.25CDT's in a door pod. Is the rli a good option?

how hot should the cone get? after wanging pretty hard tonite for some reason i decided to feel the cone. i couldn't even keep my hands on them. i unstand that the vc produces heat and aluminum will "wick" the heat away from the "vc" which don't get me wrong, is a good thing. but how how does everyone else get?

well at 1st i was going to go with one JL 12W6v2 in a ported ~1.5^3ft enclosure.(regular box,mdf, tuned 27-28 Hz) powered by an ed nine.1. then i came across the fiberglass post down at ca.com and thought about putting two 10's in a custom fiberglass enclosure in each of the wheel wells. this is where the rl-i 10s come in. would two 10" rl-i's in a sealed fiber glass enclosure with about ~1^3ft of space for each sub and both powered by one ed nine.1 amp be enough to compare it to or even outperform the (1) 12w6v2 i was speakin of earlier? im goin for an sq setup but i still want some spl. i know that the w6 do well in these categories but now i am interested in the rl-i s…

I'm on the list for a pr. of Rli-8's and was looking at a US amps XT4000D xTERMINATOR to power them. I'm gonna have to ditch my Memphis 500.1 but it was only temporary anyhow. Whaddaya think. It can be had for 250 on fleabay. My pockets aren't much deeper than that either. Thoughts...........?

decided to get the ball rolling on this ported box, so i ordered the ports, bought the mdf, finished the plans and got cracking. started building today, thought i'd share a few pics. im planning on having 2 4 inch flared ports firing at the driver and passengers heads. just test fitting here, actually wont block my rear glass at all with the hatch shut. basically all i got done today after i finished the plans. i did 2 of the smaller side pieces, but only attached one. this gives you an idea of the size of the ports i have to accommodate. 4 inch port my ass, its almost 7" at the widest point of the flare. this is without the box in. going to see where it sits with i…