SoundSplinter

i was wonderin if this will work.. now i dont know the demenstions or tuning.. or how i would tune it.. can anyone help me out.. the size i would like it to be is the size of the floor in a pt cruiser.. and the height of the subs.. will anyone be able to tell me how wide and long the port should be.. like how long should the cuts be.. and all that.. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/gallery...e.php?pos=-1994 and the measurements of the floor that i can use is 40" wide 22" deep..

Whats really hood? i got 1 12 in the trunk right now and wanted to know if this switch would a. Sound better b. get louder Right now I have this setup: Head Unit

Hey, few questions. First, I currently have my RL-P 15 in a 2cuft box sealed. Pushing it with a SoundStream Reference 500sx, which does 500wrms, though I doubt I am near that because my electrical system sucks lol. The sub is currently in my Mazda 626. I am shopping around for a hatch at the moment. My first question would be what would I hypothesize would happen as far as changes in performance if I brought the volume down to 1.75 or 1.5? It for some reason seams the sub's power handling isn't as high as I was expecting and I wonder if that has something to do with the box. This leads to my second quesiton. Second question is about knowing when the sub is exceeding its l…

Hey. i want to choose a sub that can work well in a small sealed box. in the price range i can afford, i found three contenders : rl-i 10 DLS UR-10 and Ground Zero Uranium 10 sorry for the language in the ground zero link... i asked for small sealed box application, because the designer said sealed box woofers work well in the DeathBox. there is one decware forum member which uses an rl-p 12 in the 12" version of the deathbox with great results. but i already have the box built and want to buy a ten. 500w rms @ 8 ohm available. sq oriented home theater setup. i live in romania, but the cost of shipping an rl-i is reasonable in my opinion.

i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?

I got a pair of these bad boys and since I'm limited on the small lip usage of the subs, I'm wondering what everyone else used to secure them to the enclosure. I thought about using cap screws and spiked bolts but may not work due to the shortness of the lip. I'm in the middle of revamping mine.

Hey guy's. Im a newbie here. I am looking at the soundsplinter sub's. My question is which should I get? One rl-s12 or two rl-p12's. I have a 96 chevy tahoe 2 door. I dont use the back for anything, so space is not a problem. Or should I get another kind of sub? I like the soundsplinter's because I have never heard anything negative about them, plus they are cheaper than the other sub's I was looking at. (Re audio 12mt's) I have a kicker sx1250.1 amp. The birth sheet say's 1450x1@1ohm rms. Also ported or sealed? Any help would be great. Thank's alot.

A nice feature of the Soundsplinter drivers is the aluminum cone for its heat dissipation capability. I've never quite understood why all the supposed power people feed their drivers in sealed, insulated boxes doesn't cause them to burst into flames. Well, paper cone drivers, anyway. Has anyone ever checked how warm the cones get? Thanks

i need help designing a TL box for my rl-i 8 to go under the seat of my silverado. i've finally decided upon this as what i want to do... i will give it 500wrms from a memphis mc500d..... mike or kyle...HELLLLLPPPP!! will a 3" round port be enough or will that even work? i want to keep it lookin like a typical ported box, but ala bose wavelength...i want a good number without sacrificing sq...i need to prove a point to a friend who says the only loud 8 is the L7... i look forward to replies.....i'll get some measurements after i get the rear seat back in (took the 18 solo x and ma audio hk4000d out). let me know what kinda room i need and stuff...please...and i'll foreve…

Well, after getting my new TC9+, I've been thinking it over, and I think I'm going to use it for my home system. As far as I can tell, this sub is pretty damn close to a RL-p in an electrical sense, but I'll be getting the T/S params from the seller soon to confirm that. What would be some recommendations for a sealed enclosure with a mid-Q alignment for something like this - power is probably going to be around 750-800W, maybe a kW if I can afford a rack amp to do that. Thanks.

I would like to get a sub to replace my Stereo Integrity 15". I love the sub, but it is a little too low for my taste, i am more into rock. so the questions is how would 2 rl-p 12" compare to my 15" D2? sq wise and loudness wise. I am really liking the price and really considering buying 2 if stack up to what i want. thanks, Travis

hey, i am looking to get a 15 RL-P, but i don't want a huge box. So did some designs, and i was going to go with 2.5 net ported around 30-33. This should be quite a bit louder and lower than my 12 ported rl-p, right? Is a 2" wide port enough with 25 in of port area? it is in a trunk car, so i can't hear port noise. If not, is 2.5" wide enough? I really don't want a monster box in the trunk. Also, would a 15 sealed with 1000w be louder than my ported 12 with 800w? thanks!

Yesterday morning i received my new RL-p , finally after waiting for 6 weeks. It's a very meaty subwoofer, i underestimate the size of the packaging and thought it would be light, big mistake. Anyhow, the unit is in perfect condition, the box is damn strong. Here's the pic.... I also tried the new woofer last night for a very brief time (comparing with IDmax), i use the box that is designed for IDMAX, around 0.8-1.0 cuft, i know RL-p won't like that box given 1000rms (using RF 1001BD). Preliminary listening session was sattisfying, i really like the characteristic of the woofer (not as 'dry' as IDMAX), almost the same as my old Orion 2NT, bass is clean and puncy. In…

Hey guys. The unusual T/S parameters and technology in the RL-S woofers have really peaked my interest in them. I've done a bit of research and I'm really considering them for use in car. The high QTS and high FS (especially of the 12 inch version) makes it look like these woofers would start to roll off right around where a cars transfer function would start to kick in. The tiny vas also makes achieving "true" IB easier than some woofers with vas ratings in the hundreds. Along with IB, I'm considering a sealed alignment because woofer performance wouldn't be affected by whats in my trunk. The problem with this is the box requirements are so huge (as per them T/S pa…

Hey e'ryone, Just wanted to drop in and wish you all well, whether you're spendin' time with your family, bro's, or just a few bottles of beer and the World Cup (now EuroCup ) to keep ya company! I also want to make note that I am on vacation - and all communications with and regarding SoundSplinter products or orders will be delayed until July 10th! I'd brought my laptop up here along with my 400gb external drive containing all the necessary data to continue conductin' business on the road, but the network here at my bro-in-law's has a severe distaste for my personal computer and I haven't been able to remedy the problem. Therefore, I may or may not be able to process…

okay i was messing around with the info yall gave me for tube ports and i came up with this: now is it okay to have the 2 ports on the opposite ends of the enclosure?

Hey, i currently have my box in about 1.6 cubes to low 30's, and Mike told me that 2cubes net at 34 would give me more output. I want to make sure i won't lose SQ, but i might give this a try. Will i gain much output with this change? Will i still have excellent SQ? I searched a ton on here and caraudio.com and read up on ports, square inches of port area, etc, and i used various calculators. I used the calc on maximacar.com, which is the best i have seen. The box dimensions are: 24x14.5x15 with a 4 inch by 11" port. The calculator takes into account woofer displacement and displacement of the port, and it comes out to 2.29gross, and 2.06 net. With the box being 1…

My sister wants something louder in her car. Right now she has two JL 10w1v2's in the JL ported box with about 500 watts going to the pair. I don't really know much about SoundSplinter products but I was wondering if a 15" RL-p in a 3 ft^3 box @ ~ 30hz (already have) would be noticeably louder than what she has now. The RL-p would probably be run off a Nine.1 @ 1 ohm. She listens to mostly rap and R&B. The only other sub that has been in that car was a 15" RF P3 in the same ported box so if a RL-p would be louder than both of these setups it looks like that is what I will buy (I know they are backordered but it will probably be about a month before I buy them). A…

I was wondering between the 2 subs was there any difference in specs? I have 2 sitting here, and of course the only visible difference is the cone. One with the logo, and the other with Mike's sig.

Okay so what box size would be heaven for a 12" RL-p D2 getting 700-800 watts max. I want a ported box tuned to 24Hz. I have about 3 cubic feet available. What would be heaven for the woofer?

I'm currently selling my system and am looking to get a new one. Ive heard great things about sound splinter subs but i've never heard any in person. I want to build the biggest box to go behind my seats in an '04 Silverado regular cab. Also I have an ED nine.1 to power the subs. What would you all suggest: 8's or 10's? and if not sound splinter what kind?

Just out of curiosity, which company that you guys know of that use TC sounds as their 'hidden' partner?? Lots of people mention Eclipse, anyone else??

I want to make a new enclosure for my rl-p 15. i want to make it 3.5 cubes net tuned to 33 hurts. is one 6" port tube enough port area? how long should it be? i got 15.5 inches but i dont think thats correct. thanks

i have this amp to power my rl-i10 : http://highlite.omc.net/index.php/highlite...s/p_500_vintage. do you think it would be a good match with the sub ? my system plays 90% of the time only music. i watch movies very rarely...

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…