SoundSplinter

Ive got about 900-1000w to work with, at either 2-3-4 ohms(amp switches from hi current to hi power). Im trying to decide between 2 10" RL-is, 2 12" rL-i's or 1 12" rL-p. No matter what, the setup will be sealed in a somewhat small enclosure(probably the max size would be around 2 cubes total. All opinions r welcome, Thx Shawn

hey guys iam looking for the gasket that goes around the sub by the mounting holes. If anybody has 1 let me know I will buy it off you. Thanks for looking

due to a recent trade i now have 2 x rl-ps im way more into sq ....L then spl. my favorite box desighn for 2 drivers would be the 'wicked one' www.decware.com, but its desighned for 10s? and im not getting much help with the question, if i scale up a dual folded horn desighn by approximately 1.2 will it effect performace (sq) badly? anyone know a great sq desighn that will get loud and remain true to sq performance? straight sealed in my experience is not as good as a desighn that controls the air movement in fron t of the driver (bandpass, horn etc) help! off 2500 wrms

I got a job at an audio shop :-D. When I get the RL-s in my hands, OH BOY. I basically can do whatever I want with it here. Power is easy to get, and I can slap out boxes like no one's business. Sweet!! Oh the job, I'm starting at minimum wage and after I get the hang of it I'll be on commision. 6.15 an hour, 3% of my sales, 50% of my installation fees. Even cooler I make my own install fees. Say run some new RCAs for a guy. I charge 25 bucks, I make 12.50 :-D. Cool ass shist.

i know rl-ps are not for getting loud, but i was curious as to what some of u guys are hitting on the meter with a rl-p 15?

i know were no supposed to, but 1.these proto 8s i have right now are simply amazing. 2. the rl-p 12 gets noticeably lower than the 8s. the orion 2500d that will arrive shortly is probably dangerous for either the 12 or the pair of 8s, but if i ran all 3 could it work, the 8s giveing me that awesome 'snappy' flavor, and the 12 that 'evil' low it does so well? all shareing 2500wrms? all sealed? i have read we cant mix sub sizes but what the hell, ive been told alot of things in my life and i never listened to it then? im gonna try it, how do i configure (wire) (2) 6 ohm subs and (1) dual 4 ohm sub to get the best from an orion 2500D? series parallel/paraleel...i cant even…

picked these up today for a decent price IMO and the bracing, box wil be for sale shortly(going ported ) if anyone has any ported box designs, please share them

i was wondering what the limit is, power wise, of these subs. the website says anywhere from 300-1200. i picked up an orion 2500D and planned to power 2 12" rl-p's with it. my box is 3.6 cubes tuned to 32 hz. i'm starting to be concerned as to wether or not these subs will be able to handle this power. i'll make sure to set my gains properly and subsonic filter and all that good stuff.

Is the Alpine Mrd-M605 to little for the Rl-p15 in a vented enclosure?

like it says just bought an rl-p 15. one question how does this sub compare to an rfr3115

hey i was just wondering how many watts rms the "Ultimate Competition series" is gonna be? and around how much is the sub gonna be??? have u guys decided any of this yet?

Basically, I just wanted to know if you would have to supply the same amount of power to a subwoofer to recieve the same performance from it whether it is in a Home Theatre (HT) setup or a car audio (CA) setup. Lets take the RL-S for example (seems to be the popular sub out right now which could be used in both applications), If we supplied the RL-S with 1500 watts of power with a caraudio amp such as one from MTX, and then we took the same RL-S and powered it with 1500 watts from a HT type amp such as one from the QSC PLX series, would the RL-S perform the same, assuming all other variables are the same. Or could you use a lesser powered HT amp and have an identical perf…

I decided to build a new box for the 18". Started with this........ Then this...... Then this........ I actually have the front, back, and top on. I just haven't taken any pix of it yet. It's bigger then the last box I had in there for the 15". I got about 7.2 cubes with this one. I'll get more pix up later. It's going to have 2 6" aero ports tuned to 34hz, and a Orion 2500d.

I use to have 6 Tang Band 8s in my vehicle and they got really loud and sounded nice. Im wondering if 3 of the RLi8s would get any louder then 2 of the RLi8s. I will be using a sealed box and am wondering if 3 would get any louder then 2 and if 4 would get any louder then 3. Thanks

they came today!WOW. they are so fu(king loud!!!! i don't think they hit the lows as good as my hybrid(and by lows i mean sub 30Hz)but i think the box plays the biggest part in that...1-hybrid=30Hzw/60in port, 2-RL-p's=34Hzw/70in port. but they make up for it in how much louder they are above 30!!!i gotta go have this metered now! i got the box in there and put the subs in...and when i test fit the box the other day i never thought to try to shut the hatch well i had to trim the box a little...well you'll see;).....

will SS ever dip into amplifers or other products?>

Hey yall. Well ive came to the conclusion that i am goin to get the Rl-p15. I was just wondering what the specs are on this sub and how long should it last (not going to overpower it)? Just throwin this out there but ive heard these subs are great and i am wondering why when i went to some custom sub place they never heard of Soundsplinter?

Who makes Soundsplinter?

I'm going to be purchasing Sound Splinter RLP's here soon, to upgrade from my current 2 12" Kicker CVR's (03 model) and this time around, I'm looking for 100% more SQ while still getting fairly loud. I heard great things about these subs and how great their SQ is, which got me wanting to check these out. My amp is a JBL GTO1201.1, 787rms @ 4ohms and 1114rms @ 2ohms. If I went with 2 12's, I wouldn't be able to power them properly, but if I got a single 15" I think 1114rms would be perfect. I'm going for a sealed enclosure for either sub (I don't mind ported, I'm just a bigger fan of sealed) Now, after switching from 2 SPL subs, I'm afraid I'd be disappointed in output wit…

hey guys! My job is being great and allowing me to use the shop to build a box this saturday! I plan to finally FINISH my trunk! As in finish, i mean, 2 amps, a battery, anbd my current sub box are free floating in my trunk X_X So with this opportunity i can build a box to specifications. Right now its(rl-p 15 btw) in a sealed box somewhere under 2 cu ft, not sure exactly. The site says optimal 3 cu ft. Now here is the question, should i stay sealed and build a box to specs, or should i go ported? I enjoy the balance my subwoofer gives me now, hits the lows, and also extends a bit into the top end to help out my AA mids (80-100). So i would like all the SS fans opinions o…

Saw a post somewhere saying that RL-i8's were available, or soon to be available. Whats the story?

with 3000 watts how maany rl-i 10 or 8 would u use ive got about 22 cubes to work with

Been itchin to go ported for a long time now, since I've never heard my RLp 15 ported before. Whats the smallest volume (before port area) would you guys go for a ported setup?

I have a guy on CA.com thats going to build me a box for my single RL-p 15. I told him from several recommendations, 3.5cubic feet at 32hz. He has a box thats 4 cubic feet tuned at 28hz thats already build and good to go, (ive seen it as well) Which box would you choose? Sub is a Dual 4 wired to 2 ohm, powered by a Kicker ZX750.1. I listen to alot of music, but love old school R&B and rap if im in the mood. As always any feedback is apperciated, thanks.

What would be the smallest vented/ported box for a Rl-i12 ?Have had it sitting around for a while collecting dust want to stick in my truck .Dont know if i have enough room to go vented .