SoundSplinter

I am planning on getting a soundsplinter rl-p 12in dvc 2ohm sub. I want to get a ported box but don't really want to make it myself. Does nayone know where i can buy one for a good price? Thanks dudes.. BTW, What kinda of box do you use with your sub? How does it sound?

Hey guys. The unusual T/S parameters and technology in the RL-S woofers have really peaked my interest in them. I've done a bit of research and I'm really considering them for use in car. The high QTS and high FS (especially of the 12 inch version) makes it look like these woofers would start to roll off right around where a cars transfer function would start to kick in. The tiny vas also makes achieving "true" IB easier than some woofers with vas ratings in the hundreds. Along with IB, I'm considering a sealed alignment because woofer performance wouldn't be affected by whats in my trunk. The problem with this is the box requirements are so huge (as per them T/S pa…

hey, i am looking to get a 15 RL-P, but i don't want a huge box. So did some designs, and i was going to go with 2.5 net ported around 30-33. This should be quite a bit louder and lower than my 12 ported rl-p, right? Is a 2" wide port enough with 25 in of port area? it is in a trunk car, so i can't hear port noise. If not, is 2.5" wide enough? I really don't want a monster box in the trunk. Also, would a 15 sealed with 1000w be louder than my ported 12 with 800w? thanks!

as the title says just curious how long the sub takes to ship orded it last night

i swore to myself yesterday that i would 'leave the system alone' for a month,to fully appreciate and give it a chance. but less than 12 hours go by and im wonderin,if i threw a box on that baffle ???? new speakers in the doors? deadening material/hood/firewall liner?........i will not touch it for a month...i will not,no no no!!!!.........must sleep..... stop thinking bout the sounds......notice wife........perhaps just the door speakers?....

After having the sub broken in for a little more than a week, I finally decided to do this thing. Packaging/build quality: Came in a white box labeled 29lbs. The sub seemed to be pretty secure in the box, and they gave me two soundsplinter stickers, one of which will be the only sticker I'll ever sport on my car. The sub looks awesome. I couldn't see any part of it that worried me. There's plenty of glueing on it, but that can't hurt. Equipment: 1 kenwood HU set of DEI Viper 650.2 components powered by 1 DEI Viper 400.2 amp (i'm actually using an eD nine.2 temporarily) 1 SoundSplinter RL-P12 d4 powered by 1 Lanzar Vibe 1200d @ 2ohm (748wrms) ~1.00 cu ft gross box (~0.75…

due to a recent trade i now have 2 x rl-ps im way more into sq ....L then spl. my favorite box desighn for 2 drivers would be the 'wicked one' www.decware.com, but its desighned for 10s? and im not getting much help with the question, if i scale up a dual folded horn desighn by approximately 1.2 will it effect performace (sq) badly? anyone know a great sq desighn that will get loud and remain true to sq performance? straight sealed in my experience is not as good as a desighn that controls the air movement in fron t of the driver (bandpass, horn etc) help! off 2500 wrms

does any one got a 15 sitting around (or any TC9 for that matter)they could measure for me. i'm trying to draw up a new box and its gonna be a tight fit :up2somet: so what i need is how far down does the basket come? you know the spoke that comes strait down. how wide is the motor? and mounting depth? i think i can get this one, but just in case.

I was looking for advise. I think I may be interested in a RL-s 12" for my trunk, but reading the specs and recommendations it seems that it will not fit my needs. Would I be able to fit a RL-s in my 2005 TL without gobbeling up all my trunk space. Should I be leaning more towards a RL-p 12"? Would a RL-p get me good low bass that I'm looking for? Any recommendations on an AMP to push the RL-p? How about an AMP to push a RL-s? Thanks

I'm currently selling my system and am looking to get a new one. Ive heard great things about sound splinter subs but i've never heard any in person. I want to build the biggest box to go behind my seats in an '04 Silverado regular cab. Also I have an ED nine.1 to power the subs. What would you all suggest: 8's or 10's? and if not sound splinter what kind?

Hey there guys... Im sorta new to wiring. so bare with this simple question, i have a IA 20.1 and i want to run sound splinter subs. Now the question is, rl-i 8 / rl-p12 / rl-p 15. Room right now is not the issue. the 20.1 puts out this power: IA20.1: Class D monoblock amplifier has one channel and is rated at 450 watts @ 4 ohms, 900@ 2 ohms, and 1800 @ 1 ohm. With that said im sure i could do rl-p's (4 12's or 4 15's) wired at .5 ohm or something or do like rl-i's (8 8's) Any suggestions as to a setup with this kinda power? looking for sq---------------LSQ-----(+)--------spl Theres my graph on waht kinda sound im looking for. I hope that informative ASCII graph helps. …

I am contemplating on getting a RL-P 12" sub and was wondering if I should be going the Dual 4-ohm or Dual 2-ohm way? I understand the Dual 4-ohm runs at 2ohms and Dual 2-ohm runs at 1ohm? Amp is going to be a Audison LRX1.400 # RMS Output 1 x 350 Watts @ 4 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 650 Watts @ 2 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 900 Watts @ 1 Ohm So does that mean if I were to get the Dual 4-ohm version, I'd be pushing 650w to it? Or is it still going to be 350w? Which one would you guys recommended? This is going to be in a sealed box for SQ (tight/accurate). Not really into output. Thanks!

I got a pair of these bad boys and since I'm limited on the small lip usage of the subs, I'm wondering what everyone else used to secure them to the enclosure. I thought about using cap screws and spiked bolts but may not work due to the shortness of the lip. I'm in the middle of revamping mine.

i see that it says the RLs is for home use, will it work fine for car audio

i am looking for an amp to power my rl-s 12. i had the kicker sx900.1 bridged but it ain't working out for me. so i moved that amp to my components and i borrowed my friend's jl 1000/1 for now. it hits nice and clean. but i want a little more power. here are some amps i was thinking of........ mmats 2100.2 1550wrms @ 2ohms kicker zx1500 1500wrms @ 2ohms jl 1000/1 1000wrms @ 1.5-4ohms kicker zx2500.1 2500wrms @ 2ohms (not sure if i want to run that much power) are their any other amps that will work perfectly with this sub?

Not sure if this has been released yet, but, how is the inductance. I loved my XXX, but I got rid of it, for the fact that, even in a sealed enclosure it had little output above 60 hz. Is this Proto or RL-S going to be able to have a little more extension in the upper bass range?

Hey guy's. Im a newbie here. I am looking at the soundsplinter sub's. My question is which should I get? One rl-s12 or two rl-p12's. I have a 96 chevy tahoe 2 door. I dont use the back for anything, so space is not a problem. Or should I get another kind of sub? I like the soundsplinter's because I have never heard anything negative about them, plus they are cheaper than the other sub's I was looking at. (Re audio 12mt's) I have a kicker sx1250.1 amp. The birth sheet say's 1450x1@1ohm rms. Also ported or sealed? Any help would be great. Thank's alot.

im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more power

i recently put 2 x rl-p in a 'housewrecker' go too, www.decware.com , look for the speaker page, and then the housewrecker.its a ported design intended for large rooms, i built the 12" version and its in the back of my mini van. the sound is absolutely amazing. if you have a van / large vehicle, and you want incredible sq with lots and lots and lots of effortless output. build it.

I am designing a new box for my pair of rl-p 15s, looking at this so far 6 Cubes NET 110in^2 Port Area 33hz tuning Currently my box is tuned around 36 I beleive, 5.5 cubes NET and 70in^2 port area. I am looking for overall more output 30 - 50hz. Is this too much port area? I don't think so... Should I go down to 5.5 again, but get tuning to 32hz and ~90in^2 port area?? 5.5 NET 70in^2 @ 36hz currently. Wanting more from 30 - 50hz WHAT TO DO...blah ??

Ok I'm ready to buy and have a few questions. I want either the RL-p 18 or the Rl-p 15 either one will be going in a sealed enclosure 4ft^3 for 18 or 2.5 for the 15. It's going in a 07 dodge ram quad cab. powered off a phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 So now for my questions. I have 2 10"kicker L7s in a 2.2 ft^3 box (loudest in my area) will either RL-p kill this set up? What is the shipping cost for each? Area code ( 18629 ) NE PA If I order on Monday june 11th when can I expect to recieve the sub? Thanks Chad I would love to hear your opinions.

Don't tell the Fi folks I am thinking of moving away from my 15" BL...lol I've been doing my research on 8" subs, and I think I kinda settled on the RL-i8s. I am thinking of a pair of 8s dual 4ohm, wired for a final load of 4ohm for daily driving so the amp will put out about 750watts at 4ohm. The amp is a RFT10001BD. Do you think both of those subs can handle a total of 1500watts@1ohm? I guess for burps and bass race? How would the subs like it in a ported box at lets say 1.6cuft tuned to 32-35hz? I want to choose this sub over the Kicker L7 8", just because I don't like mainstream subwoofers. And this way I can gain my trunk space back and spare tire!!! That …

I have my 2 rl-p 15s in 5 cubes tuned to 31 hz. I have my Orion 2500d at 4 ohms giving them around 600 watts apiece. If I turn the gain up a little more than it is, the cone makes kinda like a pinging noise when it hits real hard. I measured my voltage and it stays around 13.5 so I dont think its clipping. Am I simply pushing them too hard or is it possibly clipping or what? I backed off on the gain and the noise went away but the output went down. Are aluminum cones known to make a noise when they are playing this loud, or what? It only makes the noise when I stick my head pretty close. The noise isnt a big deal but I just figured I was pushing them too hard so I backed…

i took my box out of the car for a while... can i put just 100 watts to the rlp 15 and will that be ok? or will i under power it and distort it and blow it up? its tuned to 28htz by the way in a 3.5 cube box

i've read incredible things about soundsplinter and considering them in my next setup. its going in a '05 toyota tacoma access cab. my install has space limitations. i have only .88 gross cu. ft, and 600/700 watts available. i am SQ focussed, but want to wang as well. two rl-i 8s seem perfect, but they don't come in the VC configuration i need. i need a final 2 ohm load. since the rl-p does not come in 10, the rl-p 12 is my only other option (that i am aware of). is .88 gross too little for a rl-p 12" even if i add poly ?