SoundSplinter

I am contemplating on getting a RL-P 12" sub and was wondering if I should be going the Dual 4-ohm or Dual 2-ohm way? I understand the Dual 4-ohm runs at 2ohms and Dual 2-ohm runs at 1ohm? Amp is going to be a Audison LRX1.400 # RMS Output 1 x 350 Watts @ 4 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 650 Watts @ 2 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 900 Watts @ 1 Ohm So does that mean if I were to get the Dual 4-ohm version, I'd be pushing 650w to it? Or is it still going to be 350w? Which one would you guys recommended? This is going to be in a sealed box for SQ (tight/accurate). Not really into output. Thanks!

hey everyone. I just wanted to know what size hole was cut in your enclosure to house a 15" RL-p. If I'm not mistaken on Sound Splinters web page it states that the diameter is 13.85 to the outsid edge of the surround. So what I did was cut out a hole that measured 13.85 inches. I put my sub in the box and it wouldn't fit. the whole was about 1/2 inch too small or more. ten minutes later with my trusty jig saw the sub was in and clearing properly. what measurement did you guys use to install a 15" RL-p?? they should update their web page with the correct mesurements. (or did I miss something?)

Well my buddy has a Diamond CM3 in a Prefab (ewwww) ported box which from what I calculated is tuned to about 38 hz running off a Memphis St500d giving it 500 watts at 2 ohms... soooo I got him to drop my Rl-P in it and whaaaam it slaams. Its much louder than his CM3 and my old trio of 12w0s sealed but it just plays all the notes with such ease. I didnt expect too much from the sub with 500 watts and in this box but it sounds pretty darn good. I cant wait to get them in my lower tuned box with 2 x the cone area and 5 x the power (for burps mostly) But yeah everything on his Accord flexes, back window, side fenders of the body, front windshield flexes a lil bit. The…

i've read incredible things about soundsplinter and considering them in my next setup. its going in a '05 toyota tacoma access cab. my install has space limitations. i have only .88 gross cu. ft, and 600/700 watts available. i am SQ focussed, but want to wang as well. two rl-i 8s seem perfect, but they don't come in the VC configuration i need. i need a final 2 ohm load. since the rl-p does not come in 10, the rl-p 12 is my only other option (that i am aware of). is .88 gross too little for a rl-p 12" even if i add poly ?

Okay.. soo. I've been checkin out these soundsplinter subs for a while now, never really had the chance to get anything due to money issues. First post so here we go. Heard excellent things and then some about the Rl-p's, but can't afford them. So I'm lookin at some Rl-i 10's right now. Right now I have dual Diamond D6's 12". From what I heard they are a step below the rl-p in output, but they get loud enough for me. Just can't keep them anymore though. How do the Rl-i's sound and whats the best box for SQ and SPL combo? I don't really understand the graphs on the site. Any comparison to the D6 line would be awesome also. And I'm running a Diamond D6 1000.1 amplifier, how…

i recently put 2 x rl-p in a 'housewrecker' go too, www.decware.com , look for the speaker page, and then the housewrecker.its a ported design intended for large rooms, i built the 12" version and its in the back of my mini van. the sound is absolutely amazing. if you have a van / large vehicle, and you want incredible sq with lots and lots and lots of effortless output. build it.

Hey. i want to choose a sub that can work well in a small sealed box. in the price range i can afford, i found three contenders : rl-i 10 DLS UR-10 and Ground Zero Uranium 10 sorry for the language in the ground zero link... i asked for small sealed box application, because the designer said sealed box woofers work well in the DeathBox. there is one decware forum member which uses an rl-p 12 in the 12" version of the deathbox with great results. but i already have the box built and want to buy a ten. 500w rms @ 8 ohm available. sq oriented home theater setup. i live in romania, but the cost of shipping an rl-i is reasonable in my opinion.

i was thinking of having the subs and port facing up in a net 7 cu. box, subs on the outside and the port in the middle , but i wanted to see what you guys thought, i am powering them with 2 hifonics bx2005d amps, a zx6400 for the mids/highs (4 sets of mb quartz 6.5" reference series comps), ixos signal wires, and with plenty of clean signal from (2x) 1/3 oct. 30 band audiocontrol eqt seriesII's and i am not sure yet what ohm i will wire the subs at. as for the bx2005d amp: 2000@ 1ohm, 1300@ 2ohm. and does any one know if the bx2005d puts out true power, i have heard they are a little over-rated. any ideas welcome! my truck is a 2001 ford f-150

Hey, i am looking to get a 12" RL-P, and the site has been down for awhile. Does anyone have the T/s for the one with the black cone? I think it is a 2005 model. Thanks! Should 1.65 net ported at around 33 be good?

I've reserved free use of a table saw down at a local shop tomorrow. It'll be a simple common chamber, sealed enclosure for 2 15" rlp. Internal dimensions of 19"H 15"W1 17"W2 30"L. Woofer displacement is .42 and that leaves me .2 for box bracing. Internal space for the woofers is the reccomended 2.1. I'd call it a simple, fail-safe enclosure, right? Any ideas? Subs will be facing forward, although i'd like them to downfire. I suppose it'll be built tomorrow...

hey Just curious how business has been recently. I'm still rockin my double 15" rl-p subs though i think its time to put them in a ported enclosure. They've been running hard in a sealed box for over a year. Wasn't too sure if they'd last this long but i'm still happy with them after all this time. Before SS, i used an adire audio brahma that i loved, but some of you may know, adire went tits up a ways back. Just curious how things at SS have been going, and if my subs ever need to be reconed or something, i can have it done. There are so many people makin subs now days its hard to pick one and beleive your choice was a sound one. I picked adire audio from recomm…

My sister wants something louder in her car. Right now she has two JL 10w1v2's in the JL ported box with about 500 watts going to the pair. I don't really know much about SoundSplinter products but I was wondering if a 15" RL-p in a 3 ft^3 box @ ~ 30hz (already have) would be noticeably louder than what she has now. The RL-p would probably be run off a Nine.1 @ 1 ohm. She listens to mostly rap and R&B. The only other sub that has been in that car was a 15" RF P3 in the same ported box so if a RL-p would be louder than both of these setups it looks like that is what I will buy (I know they are backordered but it will probably be about a month before I buy them). A…

CAn any one help me I have a RL-I8 and i want it for straight SPL. What would be the best box size and port for this sub to reach its max output with about 300-600 watts rms. all comments needed

hi everyone i am a new to sound splinter i am buying 4 10 inch rli in the next week i am wondering if i should do down fired sealed in my prelude or port them and tune the to something low like 25-30hz trying for as much spl and loudness as possible i was going to get 2 rlp-12s but decided on 4 8 inch rli because i had done a install on the 8 rli and was very impressed so i decided to go bigger i am thinking 1200-1500 watt mono class d?

Hey Mike, Just like the title says, the ring has left me unsatisfied....hows the foursome coming along? You know the two supremes setup with the strapped 4k watts that your bud was working on? Any chance of him posting a review?

i was thinking of getting one 12w6v2 and putting it in a sealed enclosure of about 1.25 cu. ft. This would be powerd by a nine.1 at a 2 ohm load giving a max of 900w, I will probably give it much less by adjusting gains. however now i am thinking of getting one 12" rl-p. what type of enclosure would you recommend to get the best sq out of this beast. would this sq match that of the 12w6v2 or get even close? by the way the 12" rl-p will be wired in a 1 ohm load to a nine.1 which could give it a max of 1200w but I probably wont give it that much. also can I assume that the 1 12" rl-p will have greater SPL then 1 12W6v2 when placed in similiar situations?

Hi guys, just looked over your site and saw you shipped internationally. Wondering if you guys are able to ship to Australia, and if so, what would a (rough) estimation be to ship a Rlp-18 to Melbourne per driver? Cheers.

i am looking for an amp to power my rl-s 12. i had the kicker sx900.1 bridged but it ain't working out for me. so i moved that amp to my components and i borrowed my friend's jl 1000/1 for now. it hits nice and clean. but i want a little more power. here are some amps i was thinking of........ mmats 2100.2 1550wrms @ 2ohms kicker zx1500 1500wrms @ 2ohms jl 1000/1 1000wrms @ 1.5-4ohms kicker zx2500.1 2500wrms @ 2ohms (not sure if i want to run that much power) are their any other amps that will work perfectly with this sub?

Hey everyone. I have a sealed enclosure with 1 SS RL-p 15 d2. The internal air space is 2.25 cu. ft. I have a Directed 1500D hooked up to it putting 1100wrms @ 1ohm It sounds amazing now that I set the amp up properly. I'm very happy. Now to the question: I have two 1 lb bags of poly fill. By tossing both bags in the enclosure it would trick the sub into thinking its in a 2.7 cu. ft. box (round about). I was wondering what effect you think this would have on the sound? I don't want to pull my sub out and try it if its not going to do anything for my setup. What do you guys think would happen sq wise and output wise?

Got it all wired up and in the box about a week ago, now just waiting on my amp which should be here tomorrow.

Since the rl-p 18 d4's wont be in stock for a while, i think im just going to get the d2's and run them in a series off of an audioque 2200d giving them around 600 watts a piece. Would this be ok? The jl audio website says running multiple subs in series is not reccomended, is this true?

I am designing a new box for my pair of rl-p 15s, looking at this so far 6 Cubes NET 110in^2 Port Area 33hz tuning Currently my box is tuned around 36 I beleive, 5.5 cubes NET and 70in^2 port area. I am looking for overall more output 30 - 50hz. Is this too much port area? I don't think so... Should I go down to 5.5 again, but get tuning to 32hz and ~90in^2 port area?? 5.5 NET 70in^2 @ 36hz currently. Wanting more from 30 - 50hz WHAT TO DO...blah ??

an 18" RL-P i was gonna go with a beefy 12" but i said to myself, what the heck....ill just go bigger! i need to save up the money first, then I will pull the trigger. Its going into a 4 cube sealed box, powered off an MD1D giving it oh, around 6-700w. (let me know if any of this sounds like it will not be good) couple of questions: 1. Can i have it with the laser etched logo + sig (cuz i heard that the laser thing is for a small run) 2. going from a 1.7 cube tuned to 34 hz 12" to a 4 cube sealed 18" will i be missing low end even if it is a 18" sub 3. will 6-700w be enough to get the sub moving good? thanks! woot! im glad its gonna fit.

just came across a mint old school "signiture" 12". I didn't need it, but I've always wanted and the price was good. Now I have no plans to use it anytime soon. So I wanted to see if I can find an SS box for the RL-p 12" from someone. I need/want all the packing in it as well please. Let me know or if mike you read this and you can let me know what it would cost to ship me one. Thx, Vic.

The thread title asks the question. How accurate are they? Are there manufacturing allowances/tolerances? I have heard that most published T/S specs can be off by as much as +/- 20%, is this so for Soundsplinter? I want to know mainly because I want to make a maximally flat (.707 Q) sealed enclosure for my RL-p15 d2 and no matter how I run the numbers, I end up with ~1.75 cubes (I am excited about being able to use such a small box). I know the website says 3 cubes, but is this a low Q design by intention?