SoundSplinter

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…

Hey everyone. I have a sealed enclosure with 1 SS RL-p 15 d2. The internal air space is 2.25 cu. ft. I have a Directed 1500D hooked up to it putting 1100wrms @ 1ohm It sounds amazing now that I set the amp up properly. I'm very happy. Now to the question: I have two 1 lb bags of poly fill. By tossing both bags in the enclosure it would trick the sub into thinking its in a 2.7 cu. ft. box (round about). I was wondering what effect you think this would have on the sound? I don't want to pull my sub out and try it if its not going to do anything for my setup. What do you guys think would happen sq wise and output wise?

http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rlp15.1.wmv sorry for the quality. thats my digicam..i get my camcorder next week:)

i recently put 2 x rl-p in a 'housewrecker' go too, www.decware.com , look for the speaker page, and then the housewrecker.its a ported design intended for large rooms, i built the 12" version and its in the back of my mini van. the sound is absolutely amazing. if you have a van / large vehicle, and you want incredible sq with lots and lots and lots of effortless output. build it.

Okay.. soo. I've been checkin out these soundsplinter subs for a while now, never really had the chance to get anything due to money issues. First post so here we go. Heard excellent things and then some about the Rl-p's, but can't afford them. So I'm lookin at some Rl-i 10's right now. Right now I have dual Diamond D6's 12". From what I heard they are a step below the rl-p in output, but they get loud enough for me. Just can't keep them anymore though. How do the Rl-i's sound and whats the best box for SQ and SPL combo? I don't really understand the graphs on the site. Any comparison to the D6 line would be awesome also. And I'm running a Diamond D6 1000.1 amplifier, how…

i was thinking of having the subs and port facing up in a net 7 cu. box, subs on the outside and the port in the middle , but i wanted to see what you guys thought, i am powering them with 2 hifonics bx2005d amps, a zx6400 for the mids/highs (4 sets of mb quartz 6.5" reference series comps), ixos signal wires, and with plenty of clean signal from (2x) 1/3 oct. 30 band audiocontrol eqt seriesII's and i am not sure yet what ohm i will wire the subs at. as for the bx2005d amp: 2000@ 1ohm, 1300@ 2ohm. and does any one know if the bx2005d puts out true power, i have heard they are a little over-rated. any ideas welcome! my truck is a 2001 ford f-150

I am contemplating on getting a RL-P 12" sub and was wondering if I should be going the Dual 4-ohm or Dual 2-ohm way? I understand the Dual 4-ohm runs at 2ohms and Dual 2-ohm runs at 1ohm? Amp is going to be a Audison LRX1.400 # RMS Output 1 x 350 Watts @ 4 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 650 Watts @ 2 Ohms # RMS Output 1 x 900 Watts @ 1 Ohm So does that mean if I were to get the Dual 4-ohm version, I'd be pushing 650w to it? Or is it still going to be 350w? Which one would you guys recommended? This is going to be in a sealed box for SQ (tight/accurate). Not really into output. Thanks!

My sister wants something louder in her car. Right now she has two JL 10w1v2's in the JL ported box with about 500 watts going to the pair. I don't really know much about SoundSplinter products but I was wondering if a 15" RL-p in a 3 ft^3 box @ ~ 30hz (already have) would be noticeably louder than what she has now. The RL-p would probably be run off a Nine.1 @ 1 ohm. She listens to mostly rap and R&B. The only other sub that has been in that car was a 15" RF P3 in the same ported box so if a RL-p would be louder than both of these setups it looks like that is what I will buy (I know they are backordered but it will probably be about a month before I buy them). A…

I have an 18" RL-P I just bought....im about to be installing it in ~5 cubes sealed on my 20.1 @ 1 ohm.....i think the sub is rated for 500-1000 RMS on sound splinter's website...do u think it can handle the 20.1 or is that too much power?

I was looking for advise. I think I may be interested in a RL-s 12" for my trunk, but reading the specs and recommendations it seems that it will not fit my needs. Would I be able to fit a RL-s in my 2005 TL without gobbeling up all my trunk space. Should I be leaning more towards a RL-p 12"? Would a RL-p get me good low bass that I'm looking for? Any recommendations on an AMP to push the RL-p? How about an AMP to push a RL-s? Thanks

I have one of each (amp & sub stated in the title), and I'm trying to figure out which amp/sub combo would be best. The 18" will be in a ported box. 5.2 net tuned to 34hz, and the 15" will be 3.4 net tuned to 34hz as well. What's your take on this? Thx, Vic.

Hey, i am looking to get a 12" RL-P, and the site has been down for awhile. Does anyone have the T/s for the one with the black cone? I think it is a 2005 model. Thanks! Should 1.65 net ported at around 33 be good?

i am looking for an amp to power my rl-s 12. i had the kicker sx900.1 bridged but it ain't working out for me. so i moved that amp to my components and i borrowed my friend's jl 1000/1 for now. it hits nice and clean. but i want a little more power. here are some amps i was thinking of........ mmats 2100.2 1550wrms @ 2ohms kicker zx1500 1500wrms @ 2ohms jl 1000/1 1000wrms @ 1.5-4ohms kicker zx2500.1 2500wrms @ 2ohms (not sure if i want to run that much power) are their any other amps that will work perfectly with this sub?

i was thinking of getting one 12w6v2 and putting it in a sealed enclosure of about 1.25 cu. ft. This would be powerd by a nine.1 at a 2 ohm load giving a max of 900w, I will probably give it much less by adjusting gains. however now i am thinking of getting one 12" rl-p. what type of enclosure would you recommend to get the best sq out of this beast. would this sq match that of the 12w6v2 or get even close? by the way the 12" rl-p will be wired in a 1 ohm load to a nine.1 which could give it a max of 1200w but I probably wont give it that much. also can I assume that the 1 12" rl-p will have greater SPL then 1 12W6v2 when placed in similiar situations?

I've reserved free use of a table saw down at a local shop tomorrow. It'll be a simple common chamber, sealed enclosure for 2 15" rlp. Internal dimensions of 19"H 15"W1 17"W2 30"L. Woofer displacement is .42 and that leaves me .2 for box bracing. Internal space for the woofers is the reccomended 2.1. I'd call it a simple, fail-safe enclosure, right? Any ideas? Subs will be facing forward, although i'd like them to downfire. I suppose it'll be built tomorrow...

Hello All, Well here is my thing. I really don't have any experience making vented boxes. All I have ever made are sealed. But I think I can build one. I need help with the exact box plans for a RL-p 15" tuned to 18 or 19hz. I need box size, number of ports, length of ports, and size of ports. I am an ameture at building vented boxes so I need the plans. If anyone could help with this it would be much apprecieated. Thank you for looking. Saul_M

i swore to myself yesterday that i would 'leave the system alone' for a month,to fully appreciate and give it a chance. but less than 12 hours go by and im wonderin,if i threw a box on that baffle ???? new speakers in the doors? deadening material/hood/firewall liner?........i will not touch it for a month...i will not,no no no!!!!.........must sleep..... stop thinking bout the sounds......notice wife........perhaps just the door speakers?....

okay i was messing around with the info yall gave me for tube ports and i came up with this: now is it okay to have the 2 ports on the opposite ends of the enclosure?

hi everyone i am a new to sound splinter i am buying 4 10 inch rli in the next week i am wondering if i should do down fired sealed in my prelude or port them and tune the to something low like 25-30hz trying for as much spl and loudness as possible i was going to get 2 rlp-12s but decided on 4 8 inch rli because i had done a install on the 8 rli and was very impressed so i decided to go bigger i am thinking 1200-1500 watt mono class d?

im kinda interested in the rl-s 15's and wondering what type of tc sounds motor they use . also im debating on going with 3 XXX 15's useing three Soundstream PCA2000D or 2 rl-s 15's useing two Soundstream PCA2000D. what your opinions on either setup . ohh would 220 alt be enough or would i need more power

I am designing a new box for my pair of rl-p 15s, looking at this so far 6 Cubes NET 110in^2 Port Area 33hz tuning Currently my box is tuned around 36 I beleive, 5.5 cubes NET and 70in^2 port area. I am looking for overall more output 30 - 50hz. Is this too much port area? I don't think so... Should I go down to 5.5 again, but get tuning to 32hz and ~90in^2 port area?? 5.5 NET 70in^2 @ 36hz currently. Wanting more from 30 - 50hz WHAT TO DO...blah ??

Not sure if this has been released yet, but, how is the inductance. I loved my XXX, but I got rid of it, for the fact that, even in a sealed enclosure it had little output above 60 hz. Is this Proto or RL-S going to be able to have a little more extension in the upper bass range?

I was going to post this in the Show Off forum, but it won't let me. Rather than copying what I've already posted elsewhere, I'll just give you the link: http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-visu...I AM A-sirius.html It's a pretty long write up, but lots of pictures.

Since the rl-p 18 d4's wont be in stock for a while, i think im just going to get the d2's and run them in a series off of an audioque 2200d giving them around 600 watts a piece. Would this be ok? The jl audio website says running multiple subs in series is not reccomended, is this true?

CAn any one help me I have a RL-I8 and i want it for straight SPL. What would be the best box size and port for this sub to reach its max output with about 300-600 watts rms. all comments needed