SoundSplinter

i see that it says the RLs is for home use, will it work fine for car audio

Alright my RL-p 12 is on its way and now I'm trying to sort out the rest of the things I need. Because of money I am going to get either a Pheonix Gold Xenon 600.1 or a Kicker kx600.1 off ebay for an amp. Any suggestings? Also how and what do I need to wire my sub to my amp? I decided to build a box myself, so for 1 rlp with 600-700 watts at 2 ohms a sealed box should be around 1ft^3? What would be some common dimensions? Finally where is a site that could direct me in going about building a box. Thanks

Hey guys, new here. I've been looking to buy a subwoofer for my vehicle (a subaru Forester), and I thought I had decided on a JL 10w6v2, but I don't really want to spend that much on a driver, and I wasn't sure it was the best bang for the buck. I stumbled accross soundsplinter while browsing a few audio forums, and I noticed their generally favorable reviews. I did some research on the site, and saw that these drivers were supplied (or at least the motors) by TC-Sounds. Owning and SVS 25-31 PCi myself, and having a friend who owns a PC PLUS with a TC-Sounds driver, I am well aware of the quality of these drivers. Here's my question. I was wondering if the RL-i 10 wou…

At first i only want to clean it, but i got overboard and here's what it come out to be, one shiny backplate (for some reason the flat bottom won't go shine), only use my hand and some polishing product . The beast just get sexier. As i'm mounting the sub inverted, i think this is a good outcome PS: Mike can u make the Terminal hole bigger??!!!, it's a PITA when u trying to insert two 12ga wire (paralel wiring), i like to hide my wire as much as possible .

i'm gonna be feeding each of my 12" rl-p's about 1200 watts rms a pice and want to build a sealed box. i'm thinking 1 cube each will work well. what do you guys think?

I'm looking for a grill to protect my awesome sub. Anybody have any suggestions?

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HOLLA! im considering buying 2 10" RLi-s for my RSX I have a dual box already .70cf x2 (gross) and several amps at my disposal: either 2 10d4s powered by a Diamond D5600.2 (600+watts) or 2 10D2s powered by a Memphis 500d (kinda small amp ?) or I also own an MTX 801D(675w) for 2 10d2s what do you fellas think,i am leaning towards using the 5600.2,due to its SQ charectaristics,but is 300-325w ea to small? is my box too big? thx in advance

Alright I will be ordering my Rl-p 12 shortly and I want to start figuring out the rest of my setup and get it in the mail. I have been looking around at amps but I'm not good when it comes down to just deciding on one. I know to look for 500-800 watts at 2 ohms but im not sure really sure what to lay my money down for (which i dont have a lot of) so I'd like it to be the most bang for my buck. What amp should I pursue? I would like specific models too what do you use and does it work good for you? Thanks

Yo I just got my new amp in 1600w @ 1 ohm. Hooked up my subs and all, and one of my rl-ps kinda makes a rattle sound, not too much of a rattle but you hear "something". Anyone know what this could be? Maybe my enclosure? they are in i think 2.8^3ft sealed box. When i turn it up i cant really notice it but not sure what it is.

After having the sub broken in for a little more than a week, I finally decided to do this thing. Packaging/build quality: Came in a white box labeled 29lbs. The sub seemed to be pretty secure in the box, and they gave me two soundsplinter stickers, one of which will be the only sticker I'll ever sport on my car. The sub looks awesome. I couldn't see any part of it that worried me. There's plenty of glueing on it, but that can't hurt. Equipment: 1 kenwood HU set of DEI Viper 650.2 components powered by 1 DEI Viper 400.2 amp (i'm actually using an eD nine.2 temporarily) 1 SoundSplinter RL-P12 d4 powered by 1 Lanzar Vibe 1200d @ 2ohm (748wrms) ~1.00 cu ft gross box (~0.75…

In trying to tweak my new RL-i 10, I noticed that the sub is very peaky from about 40-50 Hz, much louder than at 60-80 Hz. What can I do to remedy this? I have a .6 foot box, with around 350-400 watts going to the sub. The box is packed with polyfill. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

how many watts can thse subs handle? its only singe voiice coil 3.5 can the sub produce 1 ohms

I'm about to make a new box for my RL-p, due to space restriction and the sexiness of the magnet , i have to mount my sub inverted. Now what would be the ideal cuthole size?? I notice that the rubber surround is fat and leave only slight gap in regard to the screw hole. Also about the polarity, i heard that u need to reverse the wiring, how u do that?? I'm wiring the sub in parralel. Now, would 1.27cuft and 1.38cuft yield different output?? The sub will receive 1000rms clean power and gear for SQ applcation, i like it to get low too. Thanks in advace

OK, I finally had the new 12" RL-p installed into the Audi A6 wagon last week...and I was very disappointed (and mad) when I listened to it. I took it to a decent shop and had a 4 gauge amp kit run to the back of the wagon. I built the box myself, and it turned out very nice. I posted pictures a week or two ago. It is a sealed 1.4 cu ft box. The amp is a cadence 600x1 at 2 ohm (model A5+HC). I bought a Navone Engineering NE-7V LOC, which is supposed to be the best available. When I entered the car for the first time, I was shocked at how bad and quiet the sub sounded. From reading posts here, my hopes were through the roof. However, I was really let down. I am p…

i changed my sealed box from 1.6 approx after disp to 1.1 approx after disp, i prefer the sound? weird , i have lived under the impression that real low end was hard to achieve, but after shrinking the box i think i can say that there was too much, im thinking big box + low end monster sub + trunk + cabin gain = too much imfo below 40hz? ill play w it some more but definately enjoying the new lighter sound! ?

I'm new to the SS product line and the SS forums so I'm sure this is a stupid question. I want to a single RL-p 12" for my wifes car and it would be great if I could use her old prefab box.So the big question is...... Will it work??? Here are the specs: 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 40 Hertz ports are 25.00 square inches. Thanks in advance!!!

I wonder if there has ever been an Rl-i series 10" in a DVC 2 ohm or single 4 ohm? I'd about give my left nut to get my hands on one of these drivers to fit my application, so that's why I ask...

This was a recommendation for the RL-p 12 on another site. I was just curious what everyone thought. For SQ purposes, try this: 1.2CF net (.6CF per driver), tuned at 24Hz, 22.5 ~ 25 square inches of port area. The problem is going to be vent length (causing the enclosure to be quite large), but it should sound extremely good if implemented properly. These drivers are best suited for low-tuned vented apps. They will work sealed, but if you can make this enclosure work, I think you will be pleased with the boost in overall output while maintaining excellent SQ and extension. The driver has an extremely strong motor. It doesn't need a very large enclosure at all, especia…

I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.

Well, right now they are housed in 5.5NET @ 37hz w/ 70in^2 port area. Not what I call an ideal box. They are loud, but not by my standards. New box will be had in less than a month 6 Cubes NET, 33hz, 91in^ port area and threaded rod bracing. The port velocity in the current box is ridiculous, blows harder than fudge, and has got to be hurting my output. Also I have serious flex issues, like the baffle actually has an xmax :-p. From what I've seen out of them thus far, I have a feeling that in about 1 month, I am going to be very, very loud.

Im not very impressed by my first box build go figure. Its more of a cube shape than a rectangle and it doesnt fit in my trunk flush like i wanted it to. So i need to build a new box now. Im running the rl-p off an ED 9.1 at 2ohms and i want a box that will hit the lows very well. i was thinking 16x12x25 made out of 3/4 mdf. would this enclosure be ideal for good low end extension?

Yesterday morning i received my new RL-p , finally after waiting for 6 weeks. It's a very meaty subwoofer, i underestimate the size of the packaging and thought it would be light, big mistake. Anyhow, the unit is in perfect condition, the box is damn strong. Here's the pic.... I also tried the new woofer last night for a very brief time (comparing with IDmax), i use the box that is designed for IDMAX, around 0.8-1.0 cuft, i know RL-p won't like that box given 1000rms (using RF 1001BD). Preliminary listening session was sattisfying, i really like the characteristic of the woofer (not as 'dry' as IDMAX), almost the same as my old Orion 2NT, bass is clean and puncy. In…

Okay, so I want to mount my woofer inverted because I have two very small, but very ugly dents in the cone. This means that my box can be 7" high, 24" deep, and 30" wide. 7x24x30 MAX. So, for the most effective box SQ wise, what should I build? I'm running it @2ohms on a viper d1200.1(so about 800 watts). Thanks, guys.

Alright so a while ago I was looking around for a subwoofer to fit my needs but I also wanted something that would be quality that I could put in my next car and be happy with for a long time. Then someone suggested soundsplinter, I took a look and decided that these are for me. So now im trying to find the right setup. I was thinking one 12 inch driver would be about right for me. So now comes the part deciding what to get with it. Im looking to spend no more than 400-500 tops. I was wondering what would be a good amp for this sub? I understand that it can handle a lot of power but I'm not sure I need A LOT. Also what kind of box would be right for this? I want …