SoundSplinter

i recently put 2 x rl-p in a 'housewrecker' go too, www.decware.com , look for the speaker page, and then the housewrecker.its a ported design intended for large rooms, i built the 12" version and its in the back of my mini van. the sound is absolutely amazing. if you have a van / large vehicle, and you want incredible sq with lots and lots and lots of effortless output. build it.

alright so.. i've been saving up money for almost half a year now and i really wanna get a good set for my car but the thing is, i have no idea what parts i should buy that best suites my car i drive a 2004 acura tsx i've been hearing from my friends that i should go w/ sound spinters so, i am but the thing is.. what do i all need? i have no experience w/ subs or anything of that matter so far.. i'm considering getting two 10"s? good or bad choice? but i heard the 8"s were badass. and that's as far as i've thought of no idea of what amp, or if my car can even use the subs w/out changing my deck anybody know any info that can help me out?

Third time's a charm. 1.15^3 net downfired sealed box with 1 pound of polyfill in the center console of my Dodge Ram. First slot vented box was too big and looked awful in there. Second box was sealed (not downfired though) but it had too much air space for the amp I am using. This one is perfect!!!! Dave Matthews Band Live at Central Park plays so deep and so clean I could just sit in there and listen for hours. I've used quite a few other subs in my truck (Brahma, Alpine Type R, RE SX, 12W6, etc) but the RL-p will stay in there. B)

Just a quik question. Would you guys recommend a single rl-p ported or 2 rl-ps sealed. I have limited trunk space in the back of a eclipse. I I go with one sub I have to get a new amp. I currently have a Mark Antony running 2 E12ks 2nd generation at about 1400+ watts@1ohm sealed. The 2 rl-ps, if I can get another dual 2ohm would put the amp over 2000 watts. There reason I am asking is because i want to know is it sensible to run 2400 watts for a car that will probably only see a couple of local comps.

Hey, few questions. First, I currently have my RL-P 15 in a 2cuft box sealed. Pushing it with a SoundStream Reference 500sx, which does 500wrms, though I doubt I am near that because my electrical system sucks lol. The sub is currently in my Mazda 626. I am shopping around for a hatch at the moment. My first question would be what would I hypothesize would happen as far as changes in performance if I brought the volume down to 1.75 or 1.5? It for some reason seams the sub's power handling isn't as high as I was expecting and I wonder if that has something to do with the box. This leads to my second quesiton. Second question is about knowing when the sub is exceeding its l…

What are the voice coil diameters of the R-lp drivers? Are they based on the TC9? I thought I read somewhere that they were, but the T-s parameters are pretty different. Thanks

How does the SQ of the Rl-i 10 compare to the RL-p12. I know the 12 should go lower. But do the subs have the same sound. I like how my RL-p 12 sounds. I have been thinking about running 2 but with the space I have it would have to be sealed and was thinking about the 10s. the amp I have would be great for 2 10s but for 2 12 I would need more power in a sealed box. I dont think 800w to 2 12 would be enough ported yes but sealed I dont think so. If the 10s sound the same as the 12s I think its a good option. Then use the 12 for HT.I am not letting the 12 go I am keeping. Well thanks for your help Mike J

Ok I ordered two RL-P 12's from the group buy and they will hopefully be showing up pretty soon now so I wanna get ready for them. My box will be approx 2.7 cubic foot shared fiberglass box for both subs (so about 1.35 or so each sub), should I stuff will polyfill and how much? Also will a Lanzar Opti2000D run at .5 ohm work well in this application? It is bit of power, but I figure it will work well running sealed. Here is the amp: http://lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2000D I am getting excited now that my system is finally coming together, lol B)

Hi! I will be running either 3 12's or 2 15's supremes,what would be the best amps for those subs?

I am about to get ahold of a Rockford 1501bd which puts out 1500 watts @ 2 ohms...I was just wondering if this would be too much power for the 18" RL-P? I have heard the rating of 1,000 watts is very conservative..

I currently have a A2400DB power acoustic pushing my 2 15"s. With that amp they are getting about 900w rms each @ 1ohm. I was thinking about getting the A3000DB that would give them about 1200w rms each @ 1 ohm. Would they be ok with this much power??

Ok so heres the deal, its really complicated to build a box to it in your car and that will allow pvc pipe to be used instead of a slot port. I decided to use a pvc pipe because I read it has advantages over slot ports. Ok heres my question. I need to see what you all think of the box design I have came up with. I'm using .75 mdf. The box is going to be a CRX style box, and I'm trying to make it for decent sound quality. The dimensions are 11x31x24, which is equal to a GBV of 3.4 cubic ft, and a Net box volume of 3.1 Cubic ft. The pvc port is going to be 6 inches wide, and 17.7 inches long, which is supposed to tune it to 33hz, the 6 inches will give it 28.2 cubic inches …

I'm currently selling my system and am looking to get a new one. Ive heard great things about sound splinter subs but i've never heard any in person. I want to build the biggest box to go behind my seats in an '04 Silverado regular cab. Also I have an ED nine.1 to power the subs. What would you all suggest: 8's or 10's? and if not sound splinter what kind?

I just met Mike yesterday and he is a real cool guy. He's got a great head on his shoulders and seems like a very well rounded individual. I would never had been able to guess his age based on how he carries himself. And although he is much younger than I expected in his case his youth is not a bad thing at all, just makes me jealous. I wish I had been as focused and with as much direction as he has when I was his age. Definately one of the sharper knives in the drawer. I wish you much continued success bro. It was an absolute pleasure to meet you. Your upstanding character is easily seen. We only talked for a short time, but I was very impressed. I come from a world fill…

I'm buying some used RL-ps(dual 4 ohm), but in order to do so I must get rid on an amp(s). I will more than likely put them in a box between 1-1.25 cubes net sealed, should be about 1.2. I have 2 SS rubicon 1000-2s(1000 watts rms at 2 ohms each) or a kx1200 (rated at 1400@1 ohm). I have heard many say that 600 watts is more than enough and some that swear by giving it 1kw each. I would like to go with the single amp, but dont know if I would acheive full output with it. Any help from past/present rl-p owners would be greatly appreciated. If you haven't owned/heard an rl-p, please state that if posting. Thx.

I set out to look for two and look like i may wind up with 3 after i am done. anyone looking for one let me know.

I have 550-600 RMS to deliver to one of the two subs lsted in the title (RL-p or RL-i). Will the RL-i be over powered at this? I would prefer to get the RL-i. Let the opinions begin...

Hi again Mike..... The first thing I want to mention is I don't see any posts in regards to your drivers being used in the home theater market. Most or all of the posts are for autos and SUV's. Are you selling many for home use yet? If so, I guess they aren't posting in the forums. It's been a while since I've visited your forum. My subwoofer is still performing flawlessly! My system has become such a hit that folks with new music and movie DVD's are coming out of the woodwork to come over to view them for the first time on my system. It wouldn't be complete without your subs.... As you might remember, I'm running two of your RLP 15" in a single box which has the r…

I've been considering putting a sub into an '00 Integra. Basically I am looking that I suppose what would be called an SQ sub, in that I am not greatly concerned with SPL as I don't listen to music very loudly and I also would prefer to have a near flat frequency response between across the sub and the main speakers. Ok, so I'm doing a little modeling and one thing has me troubled. I see on the SoundSplinter RL-i8 page that the recommended sealed enclosure volume is 0.2 to 0.65 cu ft with optimal car being 0.5 cu ft. From my modeling I'm coming up with about 0.09 cu ft for a Q=0.7 alignment. Is there some reason that I wouldn't want this sort of alignment in a car? I…

i didn't want to go by myself so i took one of my friend with me...had a little comp he has 2 12" xplod and a LA 600w amp vs. 2 15" RL-p and EGA1400d any way. it went like this... him, on the dash ...135.2@55Hz me on dadh...148.7@50Hz him in the kick panel...138.4@54Hz me in the kick paner...151.1@48Hz him on the headrest...124.5@54Hz me on the headrest...144.3@48Hz http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rlp15.4.wmv http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/Sou...ter/rlp15.3.wmv

So I pulled my Rl-p15 out of it's home and lo-and-behold there is a bit of surface rust on the backplate. What I want to know is, would there be any harm in taking it off with some Scotchbrite and then maybe wiping it down with some WD40 on a soft cloth? Obviously I would take precautions so as not to introduce any FOD in to the vent/VC area. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys just looking for some opinions on this. Right now I have a JBL W15GTi in 6.5cuft @ 35Hz running off an Earthquake PHD5000 monoblock. I have a Sony MEX-BT5000 head unit and American Bass 0 gauge wire. So that's my system...anyways the point is I'm getting an 88 Chrysler LeBaron and somehow I just don't see my big box fitting in it. I don't really want to make a smaller box because I like the way it sounds now, plus I'd like to have some trunk space anyway. So this is where I thought of selling my JBL and buying 3 Soundsplinter RL-i 8's in 2 or 3 cubes tuned to 35 ish Hz? I think this would better suit the car and with the surface area of 3 8" cones I could have th…

Mike, whats the possibility of an RL-p 8? I imagine its been discussed before. Probably not enough demand for 8s to warrant having two lines competing with each other. On another OT note to save topic space...anyone actually running the RL-p 18s in car yet? I loved my 15s to death, 2.75 ported was incredible -- just amazing for a 15 to work so well in that size box.

Hi, guys! Since I bought my RL-p15 (dual 2 ohm) earlier this year, I just know there can't be another sub out there to match this truly super woofer when it comes to price/LSQ/fun/pleasure. I had a LSQ setup in my Civic, did 144.4dB legal on the new TL. With small ports and a cheap ass amp I figure that's pretty decent! Now I've sold my Civic HB, and bought a little funny jap - Honda Del Sol (the "little two-seat Vtec-beast"). Thing is, I still want to use my RL-p15! So I sacrificed a little seat travel, and bent my knees for some awesome beats from this little rascal. A fiberglass enclosure behind/between the seats should do it, right? Now we're getting to the main issu…

Right now I have, one Rl-p running 1000 watts, and even though it hits really nice, I think I am missing something, the sq is nice, but I think is still a little weak as far as lows go. People from outside the car dont even know the sub is nice. Dont get me wrong, I dont want to show off, but I want to know if is normal of the Rl-p. I have a sealed box, 1.25cf. Also I would like to know if I would see a big difference by adding another 12, Would it be night and day difference? What do you guys suggest to run if I want lows, is better to run a ported box if I have 2 subs, and if yes what size should it be?