SoundSplinter

____________________________ RL-s 12" LMT Price: $499 + shipping Public Release: September 19th, 2005 Weight: Approximately 44 lbs. Thiele-Small Parameters Qts - 0.970 Qes - 1.114 Qms - 7.459 Fs - 30.972 Hz Re - 2.88 Ohm Sd - 0.0507 m^2 Le - 2.542 mH Vas - 27.65 L mms - 344.2 g cms - 76.69 m/N BL - 13.15 T*m Sensitivity - 80.5 dB Recommended Enclosures Please note that these are simulated enclosure models geared towards flat frequency response with excellent low-frequency extension and are subject to change as time permits for more real-world testing. Sealed: 2.0 - 6.0 cu ft net volume (3.0 cu ft net volume most practical) Ported: 3.1 cu ft net volume @ 21 Hz ________…

Alright I will be ordering my Rl-p 12 shortly and I want to start figuring out the rest of my setup and get it in the mail. I have been looking around at amps but I'm not good when it comes down to just deciding on one. I know to look for 500-800 watts at 2 ohms but im not sure really sure what to lay my money down for (which i dont have a lot of) so I'd like it to be the most bang for my buck. What amp should I pursue? I would like specific models too what do you use and does it work good for you? Thanks

After having the sub broken in for a little more than a week, I finally decided to do this thing. Packaging/build quality: Came in a white box labeled 29lbs. The sub seemed to be pretty secure in the box, and they gave me two soundsplinter stickers, one of which will be the only sticker I'll ever sport on my car. The sub looks awesome. I couldn't see any part of it that worried me. There's plenty of glueing on it, but that can't hurt. Equipment: 1 kenwood HU set of DEI Viper 650.2 components powered by 1 DEI Viper 400.2 amp (i'm actually using an eD nine.2 temporarily) 1 SoundSplinter RL-P12 d4 powered by 1 Lanzar Vibe 1200d @ 2ohm (748wrms) ~1.00 cu ft gross box (~0.75…

how many watts can thse subs handle? its only singe voiice coil 3.5 can the sub produce 1 ohms

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OK, I finally had the new 12" RL-p installed into the Audi A6 wagon last week...and I was very disappointed (and mad) when I listened to it. I took it to a decent shop and had a 4 gauge amp kit run to the back of the wagon. I built the box myself, and it turned out very nice. I posted pictures a week or two ago. It is a sealed 1.4 cu ft box. The amp is a cadence 600x1 at 2 ohm (model A5+HC). I bought a Navone Engineering NE-7V LOC, which is supposed to be the best available. When I entered the car for the first time, I was shocked at how bad and quiet the sub sounded. From reading posts here, my hopes were through the roof. However, I was really let down. I am p…

HOLLA! im considering buying 2 10" RLi-s for my RSX I have a dual box already .70cf x2 (gross) and several amps at my disposal: either 2 10d4s powered by a Diamond D5600.2 (600+watts) or 2 10D2s powered by a Memphis 500d (kinda small amp ?) or I also own an MTX 801D(675w) for 2 10d2s what do you fellas think,i am leaning towards using the 5600.2,due to its SQ charectaristics,but is 300-325w ea to small? is my box too big? thx in advance

After a year of negociations and a few months of pedal to the metal design and fabrication - the long awaited Linear Motor Technology from TC Sounds has be- come a production reality! I am very pleased to announce that SoundSplinter is the first public distributor to carry this exciting new technology, and that these drivers are impressive to say the least! Featuring a massive custom-tooled linear voicecoil, these drivers come at you with an RMS rating of 1000 watts, and should comfortably handle 2000 watts in skilled hands. This driver is designed for the most extreme and discerning of audio enthusiasts. If you don't have at least 800 watts to play with, consi…

I wonder if there has ever been an Rl-i series 10" in a DVC 2 ohm or single 4 ohm? I'd about give my left nut to get my hands on one of these drivers to fit my application, so that's why I ask...

Yo I just got my new amp in 1600w @ 1 ohm. Hooked up my subs and all, and one of my rl-ps kinda makes a rattle sound, not too much of a rattle but you hear "something". Anyone know what this could be? Maybe my enclosure? they are in i think 2.8^3ft sealed box. When i turn it up i cant really notice it but not sure what it is.

This was a recommendation for the RL-p 12 on another site. I was just curious what everyone thought. For SQ purposes, try this: 1.2CF net (.6CF per driver), tuned at 24Hz, 22.5 ~ 25 square inches of port area. The problem is going to be vent length (causing the enclosure to be quite large), but it should sound extremely good if implemented properly. These drivers are best suited for low-tuned vented apps. They will work sealed, but if you can make this enclosure work, I think you will be pleased with the boost in overall output while maintaining excellent SQ and extension. The driver has an extremely strong motor. It doesn't need a very large enclosure at all, especia…

i changed my sealed box from 1.6 approx after disp to 1.1 approx after disp, i prefer the sound? weird , i have lived under the impression that real low end was hard to achieve, but after shrinking the box i think i can say that there was too much, im thinking big box + low end monster sub + trunk + cabin gain = too much imfo below 40hz? ill play w it some more but definately enjoying the new lighter sound! ?

I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.

I'm new to the SS product line and the SS forums so I'm sure this is a stupid question. I want to a single RL-p 12" for my wifes car and it would be great if I could use her old prefab box.So the big question is...... Will it work??? Here are the specs: 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 40 Hertz ports are 25.00 square inches. Thanks in advance!!!

I just finished ordering my Rl-p 12, and I cant wait to get it. I think i messed up a little, see what I did was buy an amp before sub thinking that I was going to get a different sub, but now I decided on this one. The first problem I have is way too much power I beleive. I have the Lanzar Opti 2000D, which will put out 1100 at 2 ohms. I will obviously keep the gains turned down. The main point of this post is the enclosure for me that will handle some of that power and sound good doing it. It seems that most ppl around here say to try this thing sealed, but I have a few questions about that first. The kind of music I listen to is country, rock, and some rap, so I n…

Hey, want your guys opinion on my setup and what to do. The review here and interactions with Mike have convinced me to go with a SoundSplinter. I will push it with either 310wrms (PG M44) or 500wrms (PG zx475ti). My choice due to volume is either a sealed Rlp 12" or ported 10" RLi. I haven't ordered the sub yet but have started on the mold for the box. Here are pics of the beginning.

Okay, so I want to mount my woofer inverted because I have two very small, but very ugly dents in the cone. This means that my box can be 7" high, 24" deep, and 30" wide. 7x24x30 MAX. So, for the most effective box SQ wise, what should I build? I'm running it @2ohms on a viper d1200.1(so about 800 watts). Thanks, guys.

Just got my 15's & building the enclosure. It's going to be a single ported box with both 15's mounted in it. Question I have is should the drivers be completely cutoff from one another via internal divider, partially divided or wide open inside? The enclosure will be either 3/4 or 1" mdf, close to 7 cubic ft if divided, and 1 slot port on each side if divided. If open would I need to cut down on size & could I use 1 slot port? I've never run duals so kind of lost on this. Appreciate any info.

Yesterday morning i received my new RL-p , finally after waiting for 6 weeks. It's a very meaty subwoofer, i underestimate the size of the packaging and thought it would be light, big mistake. Anyhow, the unit is in perfect condition, the box is damn strong. Here's the pic.... I also tried the new woofer last night for a very brief time (comparing with IDmax), i use the box that is designed for IDMAX, around 0.8-1.0 cuft, i know RL-p won't like that box given 1000rms (using RF 1001BD). Preliminary listening session was sattisfying, i really like the characteristic of the woofer (not as 'dry' as IDMAX), almost the same as my old Orion 2NT, bass is clean and puncy. In…

Alright so a while ago I was looking around for a subwoofer to fit my needs but I also wanted something that would be quality that I could put in my next car and be happy with for a long time. Then someone suggested soundsplinter, I took a look and decided that these are for me. So now im trying to find the right setup. I was thinking one 12 inch driver would be about right for me. So now comes the part deciding what to get with it. Im looking to spend no more than 400-500 tops. I was wondering what would be a good amp for this sub? I understand that it can handle a lot of power but I'm not sure I need A LOT. Also what kind of box would be right for this? I want …

Im not very impressed by my first box build go figure. Its more of a cube shape than a rectangle and it doesnt fit in my trunk flush like i wanted it to. So i need to build a new box now. Im running the rl-p off an ED 9.1 at 2ohms and i want a box that will hit the lows very well. i was thinking 16x12x25 made out of 3/4 mdf. would this enclosure be ideal for good low end extension?

I have a 15" RL-p d4 paralell @ 2ohms on a Viper d1200.1. I have a horrible box(24x18.75x13) ported with a 2"diameter 7" deep aeroport) and I have no idea what it's tuned to. Basically, I'm wondering if I should just completely ditch this box, try to port it, seal it up and use it as sealed, or build an entire new box(I don't REALLY want to, but I probably will.) How would this box sound if I ported it? I saw that I can get some 4" flared aeroports for pretty cheap. Your thoughts?

I love when people get in my car and ask me if I have two 12's back there and I just tell them nope, just one You should see the looks on their face when I tell them its made by SoundSplinter, they are like So to the main point of this thread: What are some good songs to show off with? I have plenty of bass songs, but I want some songs that will show just how musical my rl-p is. All my friends know that it can get really loud....but I want some good sound quality songs to show them as well.

Hi guys. I am going to build the box for an RL-p 12" today. I made some measurements in the wagon, and made this design. Take a look at the attached diagram. I first made external measurements, and then I adjusted for the 3/4" MDF. That adjustment took away a LOT of cubic feet, so I need you to verify that the calculations look correct. Sorry, but this forum won't allow me to upload the spreadsheet. Thanks, MX Sub_Enclosure.doc

Hello everyone. New to the forum tonight. I spent most of today searching the net for a new 12" sub, since I have been out of the car stereo world for about 5 years. Wow, times have changed. Amps are huge and speakers are taking more watts than I can remember. I have an Audi A6 Avant (wagon), and I want to find the best 12" sub that I can run with my Cadence A5+HC 600x1 2 ohm amp. I listen to more rock than anything, but I also like trance and rap and country and etc... So, is it safe to assume the RL-p is one of the best choices available? How soon will the new sub be out? Any idea how much it will be? What is the best price for the RL-p? Finally, let me know i…