SoundSplinter

I made a 2.1 cu.ft. after displacement sealed enclosure for my rl-p 15 that I heard someone recommend. It does sound really good but I am unsure if i should have used polyfil as well and how much? thanks

Im probaly going to be getting 4 RL-p's. Putting them in the back of a 96 explorer, any suggestions on AMPS (number of amps and what kind and how much power) , and enclosure type for the box... let me know, ihave enuf creativity to make it a kick ass setup, just need to get the physics down... lemme know your thoughts. Right now i have a 1 farad cap and 1 battery (under the hood), Any suggestions as to how to power these subs, what other kinds of things ill need,s ay second battery and or what? i have no idea what else ill need.

I am getting a Rl-P 15" for my car and the only problem I am running into is making a box shape that will be able to slide into my trunk. A box shape I found that will work is a right triangle with internal dimensions of 16x31 with a hypotenuse of 34.9". The question I have is will the driver be too deep and make contact with the hypotenuse at any points? Also I would like to know if a right triangle shaped enclosure will get worse sound than a sealed cube enclosure?

Anyone with experience with the rl-p 15 have a suggestion on what enclosure would be ideal? I plan to run the sub in series at 4 ohm (or as close as it wires to) at a clean 1k rms. I was thinking of going with the 3.5 cubes the site recommends tuned at 30 Hz.

edit: I have received a $70 credit as compensation. Very cool. The 2 15" rlp subs i ordered arrived today. The first thing i noticed was an outward dent in one of the subwoofers cones. Both have imperfections but this is the most noticeable. The other sub has minor blemish dents just around the logo. Hard to capture with camera and hard to notice. Not that big of a deal. This dent has somewhat bothered me about the order. It sucks having buyers remorse, it sucks having to ship products back for replacement also. Its hard to see how this would have been caused during shipping, without puncturing the cardboard container. An email has been sent to mike, i was ju…

I'm writing this mini review to try and convince anyone who who might have the same reservations that i did, not to worry. I'm not real technical so this wont be very technical either. I was concerned about the output from a single 15". I mostly go for SQ, but on the rare occasion i put in a rap cd, i want that chit to get loud..while maintaining SQ. Ive also never owned a vented box, only sealed. So buying something based only on what people say on the net made me a little nervous. I decided to go for it and try a d4 15" in 3.5cf net @ 28hz in my gangster ass escort hatchback I am powering it with a PG xenon x200.4. Bridged down to 2 channels each VC gets a little o…

I currently have a A2400DB power acoustic pushing my 2 15"s. With that amp they are getting about 900w rms each @ 1ohm. I was thinking about getting the A3000DB that would give them about 1200w rms each @ 1 ohm. Would they be ok with this much power??

I am aiming for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.8 and an F3 around 40 Hz. For the Rl-p 15" I got the following results, using a web based box calculating program: 1. Qtc = 0.7071 Vb = 3.5 F3 = 43.48 2. Qtc = 0.8008 Vb = 2,38 F3 = 44.14 I was just wandering if you seasoned guys know of a way to reduce the F3 a bit further without changing the Qtc too much? For a SQ application, do you reckon that Qtc 0.8 will sound better than the standard flat Qtc 0.707? Or maybe, the F3s above will be low enough in a VW Passat Variant? How low do you want it to go, at the lowest in a car, sealed F3 wise?

Hello all, I bought a soundsplinter RL-p 15" probably 4 years ago? Anyway it was meant to go into a home audio project that never quite materialized and it sat on my work bench instead. During this time it seen cold temps as I live in canada and maybe have seen some things hit it I guess I dunno anyway the surround now has one small crack in it and another spot where there is a crack that is not all the way through the rubber yet. I am going to temp repair it with a silicone type glue from the back side of the surround but am interested in finding a new surround for this subwoofer. If any one can point me in the direction of one that would be much appreciated. I am slight…

Sunday I am building a Quasi-Eighth Order Series Tuned Bandpass :-D. This should be quite interesting. Its designs up to a nasty looking box!! I am slamming 148.3s right now with the standard ported box. My hopes are to get a solid 150 out of the pair AND gain SQ, which supposedly this baby should do! *still wonders where his RL-s is :-D*

(2) RL-p 15s sharing 400 RMS (5.5 NET @ 33hz) vs (2) RE RE 12s sharing 400 RMS (3.8 NET @ 35hz) Any guesses, bets, or wagers as to who will come out on top? This test will be performed by ear -- no meter used. So it may be an unnoticable change. New amp won't be here until next week, so I figured I would have some fun and put together a handicap match. Ding Ding Ding!!!! ROUND ONE

So I got an RL-p 18 off a guy on ROE. Decided to try my hand at building a box myself this time. The box is Approximately 6.2 cubic feet net ported to about 27 hertz. I say approximate because it has curved boards and I didn't bother busting out those formulas... So here's some pics. The funny part is, what I thought is/was the toughest part, the curved flares, came out way better than I had hoped they would let alone thought they would. I did the math, drew out where they should end up, then had a friend help me bend them (2 hands simply wasn't enough) and they ended up spot on. All my other easy cuts? Typically a blade's width off.. made for some interesting clamping …

So will these be back in stock soon? just wondering I'm thinking about doing an install with 4 of them

Is 81 square inches of port area enough for an RL-p 18? The box I'm thinking of building is sub up ports back(2, with bent-mdf-flares) in the trunk of a 94 cadillac deville. Net volume is about 6.4ft^3 tuned to just under 27hz. The two ports are 3x13.5 and then flared exit. It will only be seeing about 600-700 watts (Crossfire 1502 bridged)

I'm looking to get a Rl-p 18 by the end of the summer and wanted to know what is the recommended/optimum port area suggested for it...figured I'd go ahead and play with some box designs

Mike, whats the possibility of an RL-p 8? I imagine its been discussed before. Probably not enough demand for 8s to warrant having two lines competing with each other. On another OT note to save topic space...anyone actually running the RL-p 18s in car yet? I loved my 15s to death, 2.75 ported was incredible -- just amazing for a 15 to work so well in that size box.

hey all, i was just wondering, how much of an improvement in spl and sq (in your opinion) if any will i get switching my LI in for an RL-P i just ordered?? All with the same amt of power about 550-600w, and same box (but shrinking the internal volume by .75 cubic feet.) and tuning it around 30-32 hz.

I should be receiving my 12" RL-P tomorrow sometime and would like to try and get the box built for it this weekend. I've read more times than I can count that the RL-P loves to be ported, so that is definately the type of box I am leaning towards. And I want to try donwfiring since it will be in an extended cab truck. I should start by saying I have very limited dimensions but can still get the required space. The dimensions I can use are, no more than 26" high, 21" across, and 14" deep up to about 14" high and 10" deep from there up. Kinda hard to visualize? shape would kinda resemble a chair. My questions are as follows: With downfiring would the port direction matter?…

I am planning on getting a soundsplinter rl-p 12in dvc 2ohm sub. I want to get a ported box but don't really want to make it myself. Does nayone know where i can buy one for a good price? Thanks dudes.. BTW, What kinda of box do you use with your sub? How does it sound?

I have my 2 rl-p 15s in 5 cubes tuned to 31 hz. I have my Orion 2500d at 4 ohms giving them around 600 watts apiece. If I turn the gain up a little more than it is, the cone makes kinda like a pinging noise when it hits real hard. I measured my voltage and it stays around 13.5 so I dont think its clipping. Am I simply pushing them too hard or is it possibly clipping or what? I backed off on the gain and the noise went away but the output went down. Are aluminum cones known to make a noise when they are playing this loud, or what? It only makes the noise when I stick my head pretty close. The noise isnt a big deal but I just figured I was pushing them too hard so I backed…

Whats up guys im new here...I post at carstereo.com alot. I recently bought an rl-p from mike at ss, and just want to say that if the sub sounds as good as his customer service is, I will be impressed!! I get the sub saturday or monday, and I cant wait. I had an aw1205n from audiocrap and I blew it within a day. I had it runnin at 1200 watts at 1 ohm, it couldn't handle it. I am going to run the rlp at 800 watts at 2 ohms. Mike said that would be enough to make the thing slam. Does anyone else run about 800 on their rl-p? Does it pound?

Well, I have removed all my car stereo stuff to make room for family in my ride...BUT, I cannot part with my RL-p 12..I just love it too much. I was wondering if box sizes/styles would be the same for use in the house? It is looking like I will be starting with around a 200w home audio amp. I know that is way under the RL-p, but I aint selling muh speaker... any ideas/opinions welcome

Hey there guys... Im sorta new to wiring. so bare with this simple question, i have a IA 20.1 and i want to run sound splinter subs. Now the question is, rl-i 8 / rl-p12 / rl-p 15. Room right now is not the issue. the 20.1 puts out this power: IA20.1: Class D monoblock amplifier has one channel and is rated at 450 watts @ 4 ohms, 900@ 2 ohms, and 1800 @ 1 ohm. With that said im sure i could do rl-p's (4 12's or 4 15's) wired at .5 ohm or something or do like rl-i's (8 8's) Any suggestions as to a setup with this kinda power? looking for sq---------------LSQ-----(+)--------spl Theres my graph on waht kinda sound im looking for. I hope that informative ASCII graph helps. …

first impressions of the sound are sumptuous! will post more as i get more listening time with it!

I finished my box today for the rl-p. It took awhile but came out pretty nice. All I have to say is that computer guided tools kick *ss! I know the pictures suck, but what do you expect at 12:30 at night.