SoundSplinter

Well, right now they are housed in 5.5NET @ 37hz w/ 70in^2 port area. Not what I call an ideal box. They are loud, but not by my standards. New box will be had in less than a month 6 Cubes NET, 33hz, 91in^ port area and threaded rod bracing. The port velocity in the current box is ridiculous, blows harder than fudge, and has got to be hurting my output. Also I have serious flex issues, like the baffle actually has an xmax :-p. From what I've seen out of them thus far, I have a feeling that in about 1 month, I am going to be very, very loud.

today after carpeting my box, i hooked up my multimeter to wire coming from the box. the speakers are wired in what should be a 1 ohm load. exactly the same as the fosgate diagram, except that my + and - from the amp are not both to opposite coils of the same speaker, the + goes to one speaker, and the - goes to the other speaker. what gives? i never did check it before so i dont know if i've been running 1.5 ohms since i hooked it up or not.

Has anyone tried a RL-p 12 in a .75 ft^3 box which is the minimum recommended sealed enclosure? Right now I have one RL-p in a 1.15 ft^3 enclosure. I have a second RL-p gathering dust but the largest box I could build would be .77 ft^3 net per sub. Worth building or not

with the two ports venting straight into where the speakers on the rear deck have been removed? what calcs do i need to consider? im thinking about 6" pvc x 2 at anywhere between 2 and 15 inches depending on the way box is built? anyone ever heard a set up like this? SUBOX.bmp

08-21-2005 12:23 PM <b>The sound report</B> First, let me start off by saying that words can't even start to give these subwoofers justice. I'll do what I can. From the moment I started demo'ing tracks after installation, it was plainly apparent that these drivers reproduce sub bass frequencies with an almost effortless and airy authority. Their accuracy and strength is underscored when playing tracks with multiple layers of complex low-frequency sounds. A movie clip is an excellent example, with music playing, and lots of different sounds all happening at once. Another good test track is Cee-Lo, Sugar. Very few subwoofers that I've heard can execute some diff…

Hi again guys. Well I got my HU and 4-channel amp all installed so that leaves me with the sub and sub amp now. Originally I was going to go for a 10" Rl-i, but I would REALLY like to fit a 12" Rl-p into my single cab (1999 F-150). I took a few measurements and it looks like it will work. Tight, but it should work. It can either be forward facing, or down firing Questions... 1) How much space is reccommended to be left around the edge of the sub when mounting it? 2) How much space does the magnet need from the back of the box? 3) Is there a big sound difference between a forward facing sub and a down-firing one? 4) How much space should I leave in front of the …

not really a big deal but i was wondering if there are magnet boots left for the rl-i8s i got my three before mike had them...

when i switch my +ve and -ve wires on the sub amp there is a "non-quantifiable" difference in the way things sound, but its really hard to determine EXACTLY which sounds better or right? is there a way with a dmm or some other physical piece of equipment to determine when the sub is connected in phase or is it just a matter of listening to it? or traceing everything back to the hu?

Hey yall. Well ive came to the conclusion that i am goin to get the Rl-p15. I was just wondering what the specs are on this sub and how long should it last (not going to overpower it)? Just throwin this out there but ive heard these subs are great and i am wondering why when i went to some custom sub place they never heard of Soundsplinter?

i'm trying to get a QTC of .707 out of my Rl-is in my new box. So far these are my calculations. .267 = QTS 44.74L = 1.57cf = Vas Vb = 1.57/((.707/.267)^2-1) Vb = 1.57/(6.011) VB = .26 So is this the net volume i should be shooting for for 1 rl-i? I want to port it i haven't grasped the complete understanding of QTC but realize .707 is ideal and depending on which way i go i will gain some low end lose wattage handling, or gain handling of power and get some peakiness. But i don't understand if a port and the tuning will affect the QTC or if i could go for a higher QTC and a lower tuning to gain the same type of output. THanks for your time ~Mike

Im probaly going to be getting 4 RL-p's. Putting them in the back of a 96 explorer, any suggestions on AMPS (number of amps and what kind and how much power) , and enclosure type for the box... let me know, ihave enuf creativity to make it a kick ass setup, just need to get the physics down... lemme know your thoughts. Right now i have a 1 farad cap and 1 battery (under the hood), Any suggestions as to how to power these subs, what other kinds of things ill need,s ay second battery and or what? i have no idea what else ill need.

I first built this box about six months ago. But when I slid in the box, I noticed that the back seat wouldn

is it a missprint on the web site, or does the rl-p 12 have a significantly lower fs than the 15?....why?

Hey guys, new here. I've been looking to buy a subwoofer for my vehicle (a subaru Forester), and I thought I had decided on a JL 10w6v2, but I don't really want to spend that much on a driver, and I wasn't sure it was the best bang for the buck. I stumbled accross soundsplinter while browsing a few audio forums, and I noticed their generally favorable reviews. I did some research on the site, and saw that these drivers were supplied (or at least the motors) by TC-Sounds. Owning and SVS 25-31 PCi myself, and having a friend who owns a PC PLUS with a TC-Sounds driver, I am well aware of the quality of these drivers. Here's my question. I was wondering if the RL-i 10 wou…

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Are these available in Dual 2-Ohm coils? If so, I'm going to be ordering one instantly. If not, I'm gonna need to find something else

I'm currently coming from a setup consisting of 2 JL 12w3s in a ~7 ft^3 ported box getting about 400W each. I am going to use the same amp (providing about 900w RMS @ 2ohms). I am also going more for an SQ setup this time -- I want osmething that hits nice and hard, and I'm not too concerned about someting that'll make my ears hurt (okay, I don't want that anymore). So, here's the question: which would YOU prefer -- 2 10" i's or 1 12" P? I still haven't decided on ported vs. sealed yet, as I don't know how much less-loud a ported enclosure is, since I only have experience with my old, big ported box. If I do the 12" Rl-p, I'll probably go sealed, but may do either se…

Hello all. I just ordered a 12" RLP and I am going to be running it off an MTX 2300. The sub will get approximately 700 watts rms. I am debating about what enclosure I would like to use in my car. I currently am running 2 JL Audio 12w6v2's in a sealed enclosure and it sounds good, but I am looking for a little bit different sound. I would like it to have the potential for getting loud, but with precise sounding bass. Would I be better off going with a sealed enclosure again, or should I try a ported enclosure? Also, as far as vented/ported, does slot ports or round ones matter?

i want my ported box to be 2 cubic feet i want it tuned to 34hz so far i have 30Wx14Hx?D I cant figure out with a box calculator what my depth is, if i put it at 13.5 i get 21 square area for the port but if i put it at 14 i get 19 square area. so my question is what should my depth be for a box that is 30 w x 14 h so i have 21 square area port sounds confusing sorry.

okay, my e1800d input sensitivity is set @ about 60% now (1o clock position) and when i turn my vol up (20 of 34) it doesnt seem to show a lot of excursion, maybe an inch total. this is also with the EQ on my HU on "xplod" (sony). (MY 40A FUSE HELD AT THIS VOLUME) now i wanted to ask before i fool around with my input sens. because i do not want to blow my sub. i know my RCAs are rated @ 2V, but im not too sure how much its too much on my amp.

Third time's a charm. 1.15^3 net downfired sealed box with 1 pound of polyfill in the center console of my Dodge Ram. First slot vented box was too big and looked awful in there. Second box was sealed (not downfired though) but it had too much air space for the amp I am using. This one is perfect!!!! Dave Matthews Band Live at Central Park plays so deep and so clean I could just sit in there and listen for hours. I've used quite a few other subs in my truck (Brahma, Alpine Type R, RE SX, 12W6, etc) but the RL-p will stay in there. B)

what frequency should i tune a 12" rlp in 1.5 cubes off 1200 watts i want the best mix of sq and spl

Well my RL-i 10's arrived yesterday, and I want to get them in a box asap. No literature was provided with them, but not a big deal. I just need to know the displacement of these subs so I can figure my overall box size. I spoke with Mike via email and he recommended a .6 cu ft per sub sealed box. I'll be running 425w RMS to each, and they'll be down-fired under my rear bench of my crew cab truck. One thing I noticed was that the mounting surface is a bit different from what I'm used to. The mounting holes are covered with a rubber "ring." The holes through this ring appear to be the same diameter as the holes through the mounting surface of the basket. So my que…

I have a dual 2 ohm 12'' RL-P. I use a directed 1100D directed amp. I'm going tgo wire it for a 1 ohm load. So that would be 1100 watts at 1ohm. I'll keep my gains set right so i dont over power it. I listen to mostly rock, and trance music. but on the occasion i listen to some rap and stuff. I want to do a sealed box. what should the volume be? Thanks guys!

Well after some delay in trying to figure out the proper enclosure size for my RL-p 15, it's finally in. Thanks again Mike for putting up with all my emails . It's in a 2.0 net sealed box, temporarily being powered by my Fosgate Power 451S amp. The sub is getting ~230 watts (not much eh?) It will soon be mated to an Arc Audio 1500-XXK. This setup replaced my previous 12" Brahma in a 2.5 cu ft box, tuned to 28 hz. Now onto the review! Only got to listen to the sub for 5 hours or so today. But from what I'm hearing already...I'm VERY content with my purchase! This thing can get pretty loud with only 230 watts. I can only imagine how it'll sound with almost 4 times as mu…