SoundSplinter

Yo I just got my new amp in 1600w @ 1 ohm. Hooked up my subs and all, and one of my rl-ps kinda makes a rattle sound, not too much of a rattle but you hear "something". Anyone know what this could be? Maybe my enclosure? they are in i think 2.8^3ft sealed box. When i turn it up i cant really notice it but not sure what it is.

I just finish installing my RL-p today and i found the subs doesn't hit that hard and solid, it goes low but, i feed it with 1000rms. Does the inverted installation has anything to do with this?? I used to put the sub in a normal way but in a larger box, it hit harder and more solid but a lot peaky. The current box has around 1.3cuft net (with the magnet outside)

Okay, I know many of you have heard both SE's and RL-p's, and although I know I am on a Soundsplinter forum, I feel like I could get an honest opinion from many of you, so here it goes. What would the differences be between the two in their optimum sealed enclosures? How would the output and SQ differ? It will be Dual 12's with a Diamond D6 1000.1. I am asking because the RE SE's brand new are about 330 shipped for me.. and the Rl-p's are quite a bit more. I wanna know if it is worth the jump.

lookeyrl-p

i figured out why my porn looked kinda crappy...it was the way i streamed it onto my computer...i did it again tonite @ 40fps and it looks amazing:D to bad none of you can see it, it ended up being 1.3 Gb :eek: but i captured a couple pics from the video that look pretty cool.....

I have heard many mixed reviews as to how much these subs will actually handle. I have heard about the very strong motor, 2.3'' long 3'' diameter 4 layer VC, and dual spiders. I hear that they have the same thermal power handling as the RE XXX due to the VC. However, are they limited by their mechanical power handling or something else? They sound like they are suited for a lot of abuse but then I recently heard that they do not like abuse (from owners) and that they have a lower power handling than the ID Maxes. The ID Maxes are known to not like 1000 watts or so and are said to be about their limit for daily driving.I am asking because I have 2 RL-P 15s and a Orion 25…

im getting a t3000bd would this be to much for 4 rl-p's

does anyone know the efective cone area of this woofer

does any one got a 15 sitting around (or any TC9 for that matter)they could measure for me. i'm trying to draw up a new box and its gonna be a tight fit :up2somet: so what i need is how far down does the basket come? you know the spoke that comes strait down. how wide is the motor? and mounting depth? i think i can get this one, but just in case.

Im considering getting an rl-P 15". My last setup was 2 12" L7's and I wasnt satisfied with their sq. I will be putting it in a ported box in my ext. cab Toyota Tacoma. What size box would you recommend? I have up to 4cu.ft. of room but heard that the rl-p would be well satisfied with 3.5 or less.Also will I be happy with how loud it will get after being used to hearing my last install? From what I've read I will be with the subs sq.Thanx 4 any help.Sry 4 all the q's.

Hey, What are some numbers you guys have been hitting with you Rl-p's.... whether it may be for straight SPL use or just a daily driver and got it metered. I didn't really find any numbers of the Rl-p's and searching didnt help really. If you could, name Car it was in, power, box, and size of Rl-p's.

anyone done a test on this yet ,im just curious might pick up a rl-p one day to play with how would they compare sealed with like 1000w,and ported with 1000 also how would they compare ported with the same power (or less) thanks...

Would it be possible to change a dual 4ohm RL-P12 to dual 2 ohm? If so, how much would it cost?

I am currently running a eD 15a powered by a PG 1200.1 in a 1.5 ft^3 sealed box. I was wondering how the SQ of the RL-P compared to that of the 15a (both in the 15" version and in the recommend sealed box). I know that SQ varies from my ears to your ears, but I just wondering what people think that have listened to both. I enjoy the 15a but I think that I can get something better. I know that both subs share a similar motors, but the coils and suspension on the RL-P are an suposedly an improvement over the 15a. I do not want to spend my hard earned money on a sub that will not be that much of an improvement. Thanks in advance, Matt

Okay, so my friend just got his ava 18 installed and its purdy loud, I've liked what I've listened to so far. Its on about 1000/1200 RMS. My question is, to get louder should I.... Get an MT 15 ported on 3krms or Get two Rl-p 15s ported on 2krms Also, its pretty much a given that either of those would be louder than his 18...wouldn't ya say? Propsed box for the Rl-P 15s is a true CRX style box, two chambers, subs up, ports back, 2 4" aeros per chamber, 3 cubes net each tuned to 34hz I dunno, when I think Dual 15s CRX style in a hatch...I think LOUD. Thoughts/opinion/ramblings. Just respond...I'm tired...intoxicated, and about to pass out. Yet I still post...YOUR TURN

i traded my $500 gift certificate for these 2 db extreme soundstreams. they seem to be a little bit beefier than the RL-p's they are ran to a .5 ohm final load. my amp seems to be doing ok, w/ impedance rise i expect it to be around 1ohm. i'll graph it later to make sure. the basket is about 1/8-1/4" bigger on the dbx's. well here's the pics.....

How do these two subs rated against each other SQ wise?? Similar sounding? Does size matter for achieving better SQ?? or it's just a gimmick?? Sorry for asking heaps of question

after talking to a guy on an audio web site i am about ready to buy a rl-p 12,just wanted some basic comparisons between it and a w6? obviously the ss is half the price! anyone familiar with both drivers and able to say what the main differences are?

Not for sure if i will be getting the new amp yet, but its an Elevation audio DX2000.1. I was told it would do 1200-1300 at 2ohm. I am planning on getting a 15" RL-p. So, what do you guys think about 1300rms going to it?? I know it will be fine. So the next question, what type of box should i make sinch i am throwing so much power at them?? Should I go sealed just to be on the safe side??

I CUT PASTE THIS FROM ANOTHER FORUM, is1pimp is the reviewer? look like he got what he wanted? Amp is a Nine.1 and the box is a 1.0 cubic ft sealed enclosure. I had the RL-P in it for about a week, and the XXX just got put in today, and here are my findings. These two subwoofers are completely not in the same league as eachother, maybe in SQ they are, but thats about it. The guy that wrote the other writeup comparing the RL-P to the XXX and saying the RL-P almost got as loud, and was the better choice has to be completely insane (no offense to whoever wrote that review ). Or the only explanation is he used 750 watt, and i am using 1200 watts, so i guess before 750 watts,…

So I finally got the courage to buy some quality speakers (my first REAL setup to me). Mike was extremely quick and helpful, and today I got a nice surprise in the form of 2 12" RL-p's waiting for me. I was slacking, honestly didn't think the subs would come in already, so me and a friend put together a box for it today. Right now its sealed with individual chambers for each sub. 1.92 cubes before displacement and 1.74 cubes after. Would it be worth it to port this? If I port it then I MIGHT be able to get 1.5cubes for each sub, but maybe less. Right now I'll be running each sub at 400watts RMS each, how will it perform in the current sealed setup? I really wish I had bui…

First time poster here with a question about the RL-P. I have entered the market to find a new sub after a nuked my old school round solo(12 inch D series, had it less than a week bought it brand new never used). I was floating around the caraudio.com forums and saw many people talking up the sound splinter product(I created a similar post to this over there today and all repsonse have been very positive) so I checked out the web site and came away impressed, yet looking for more info. Basically I just wanted to get some opinions as to how this speaker compares to my solobaric. I went with the solo because I loved the small sealed box design. I want my system to sound go…

Ok I have to ask here I have a SE12 and Dont care if it is louder then a RL-p12. What I want to know is what one will smack you in the head the hardest with 600 watts. I am not going to worry about saving room in my car. I have an SE12 right now and if the RL-p has more kick to it I will change over. I just change my amp on my SE and it did give it some more life. I had a memphis 500d on it and just put a PG X600.1. I did not think there would be a big differance but but there is.They say the X600.1 put out 800 watts not 600 and and I think it is just a better amp. Well thanks for your help and sorry to bug everyone. Just have to say Mike is a good guy. we have email…

Hey guys, quick rundown of what I have had in the past (for comparison purposes) and what I have now. Old vehicle, '93 Explorer, Eclipse Head unit, 5433 I think, Diamond Audio 5X7's in all doors, Diamond Audio M6 tweeters in A-pillars, US Acoustics USB 4085 amp for all the above mentioned, Diamond CM3 10" D4 subs in a transmission line ported enclosure, powered by a Diamond D5 600.2 amp. New vehicle, '99Mitsubishi Montero Sport, Eclipse CD5000 headunit(sweet), Eclipse SC8264 Components in front doors (sweet), MB Quart DKK116 6.5 Coax's in rear doors, all ran off same US Acoustics amp, the RL-p12" sub ran off the Diamond Amp (600rms@4ohms), sub is in sealed enclosure, ~1.…

i have a single RL-p12 sub whats your opinion on a box ( ported or sealed ) also dimensions. to push sub i got a MTX Thunder 1000d, is this good enough to push this sub? i also dont know what type of connection, sub to amp. i tried get help locally but they dont know whats a SOUNDSPLINTER. so basically i need to be educated.