SoundSplinter

what amp can fully power two rlp 12's ?

This was a recommendation for the RL-p 12 on another site. I was just curious what everyone thought. For SQ purposes, try this: 1.2CF net (.6CF per driver), tuned at 24Hz, 22.5 ~ 25 square inches of port area. The problem is going to be vent length (causing the enclosure to be quite large), but it should sound extremely good if implemented properly. These drivers are best suited for low-tuned vented apps. They will work sealed, but if you can make this enclosure work, I think you will be pleased with the boost in overall output while maintaining excellent SQ and extension. The driver has an extremely strong motor. It doesn't need a very large enclosure at all, especia…

Well I didn't want to jack CT_SRT's thread, but people were suggesting using a slot port in the middle to act as bracing. I was originally considering this, but I need to use an L shaped port to get enough port length, and I couldn't figure out how to make an L shaped port act equally on the 2 subs. I'm currently building my box, but have yet to cut into my front baffle, so sub mounting/port placement is still decidable. My external dimensions are: 15H" x 36W" x 25D" So that should give me about 7.1cf right? Can anyone help me port this? I'd like to tune to 30 hz (lower if possible) with as much port area as I can fit. Any large port tuned that low will be longer than 20"…

I want to use 2 RLi 10s in a 1.5 cubic foot net sealed box with 1800 watts RMS power on them @ 1 ohm. Will the subs handle that kind of power being that are only rated at 500 watts RMS? Also, what size voice coil do these subs have? Thanks, Bill

I can't seem to track down the "PE grille" that I've seen in a few posts. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Thanks, -J.

I'm thinking of doing two boxes; each box containing dual Rl-i 8"s in between 1 and 1.3ft^3 with a 15" passive radiator tuned to about 30hz. So 4 total with two boxes I'll be glassing it all, and I'll have either my colossus GenXX or maybe even something nicer cough Goliath cough. According to the new testing its doing less power than the colossus but gets more spl due to the name I suppose . http://audioforum.termpro.com/ubb/ultimate...011444/p/3.html very intresting it's doing less power but but spl... So I'm thinking of trying something of that nature. I'm getting a pair of BD1500's soon I hope, so I'll test with those when I get the new truck. And *hopfully* 4 Rl-i…

I got these two box designs off Ca.com, im just wondering if they will be fine. Will be powered off a nine.1 1200w@1ohm with the gains turned down a little bit. Running a 15 rlp http://img30.imageshack.us/my.php?image=35...z465sqin0cb.png This one is 3.5 cubes tuned to 30hz http://img30.imageshack.us/my.php?image=32...z435sqin9pz.png This one is 3.2 cubes tuned to 28hz. Im leaning more towards the 3.2 cubes as I want to have SOME space left in my trunk. Would these two box designs be sufficient or should I go with tomsething else.

I'm currently coming from a setup consisting of 2 JL 12w3s in a ~7 ft^3 ported box getting about 400W each. I am going to use the same amp (providing about 900w RMS @ 2ohms). I am also going more for an SQ setup this time -- I want osmething that hits nice and hard, and I'm not too concerned about someting that'll make my ears hurt (okay, I don't want that anymore). So, here's the question: which would YOU prefer -- 2 10" i's or 1 12" P? I still haven't decided on ported vs. sealed yet, as I don't know how much less-loud a ported enclosure is, since I only have experience with my old, big ported box. If I do the 12" Rl-p, I'll probably go sealed, but may do either se…

Could someone help me with the dimensions for a box. I'm wanting to go 1.8^3 @ 30hz. This will be for a single 12" rl-p, and will be going in the back of a tahoe, so room isnt really a problem.

After having the sub broken in for a little more than a week, I finally decided to do this thing. Packaging/build quality: Came in a white box labeled 29lbs. The sub seemed to be pretty secure in the box, and they gave me two soundsplinter stickers, one of which will be the only sticker I'll ever sport on my car. The sub looks awesome. I couldn't see any part of it that worried me. There's plenty of glueing on it, but that can't hurt. Equipment: 1 kenwood HU set of DEI Viper 650.2 components powered by 1 DEI Viper 400.2 amp (i'm actually using an eD nine.2 temporarily) 1 SoundSplinter RL-P12 d4 powered by 1 Lanzar Vibe 1200d @ 2ohm (748wrms) ~1.00 cu ft gross box (~0.75…

Im probaly going to be getting 4 RL-p's. Putting them in the back of a 96 explorer, any suggestions on AMPS (number of amps and what kind and how much power) , and enclosure type for the box... let me know, ihave enuf creativity to make it a kick ass setup, just need to get the physics down... lemme know your thoughts. Right now i have a 1 farad cap and 1 battery (under the hood), Any suggestions as to how to power these subs, what other kinds of things ill need,s ay second battery and or what? i have no idea what else ill need.

I do not see a phone number to call Mike. Does he take calls. I would like to talk to him about the 8s. Thanks Mike J.

i went to go purchase a set of Rl-i 10s and i didn't see an option anywhere to buy with a credit card. CAN ANYONE HELP ME?

I got my 12" RLP in a 2.0 cu ft ported box, tuned to 29hz and powered by a RF t5002. This setup replaced my 2 12" JLw4 in a 2.5 cu ft sealed box that was powered by an old kicker ZR240 amp. On certain songs, it has the same "tight" bass I got in my sealed box and on other songs it just seems like the bass grew some balls. This setup is louder and has more visceral impact than my old JL setup. I'm really enjoying it. Only thing better is perhaps a 15" RLP in my trunk, but if went that route, I wouldn't have any space left in my trunk. A great product with even better customer service. Edit: James, a local box builder made this enclosure for me.

My RL-p 12" died so I'm looking for a replacement. My ride is tiny, Scion xA, so real estate is limited. That being said, I'm leaning towards a 10" rather than another 12". I already have a nice ported 10" enclosure that fits well and was wondering how the RL-i 10" would perform in 1ft^3 net tuned @ 36Hz. Thanks in advance! E

Is it clipping? Took the sub out, and it still made that sound on lower volumes. It's not bottoming out for sure, but what the hell can cause it? I'm using the same box and amp that I had in my old car, and it worked like a charm then.

Hi all, Newbie here. I have decided to purchase 2 RL-P 12's being pushed by a tantrum 1200.1. Each driver will be getting about 750 W each of clean a/b power. I am mostly looking for serious impact and the bass drum range. I want Def Leppard and AC/DC kick drums to kick the hell out of my chest. Dave Mathews' "Crash", etc. I have about a max of 4 cf I can work with. Based on this what would you recommend enclosure-wise? I know sealed always offers the smoothest curve, But I keep hearing that these drivers shine in a ported box more than many others. Can a ported box still produce tight, accurate bass that I need? Thanks all.

Here's what it says on the site....... Optimal Car: 0.5 cu ft net volume sealed 0.3 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 35 Hz Is this right, or should it be the other way around? I thought more space was needed per sub when doing a vented box? I may be wrong, but I thought I would ask. Since my wife sub box is 1.3 sealed currently, I could just use a 3" flared port with that same box, and be fine right?

I'll have the RL-s in hand towards the end of the first week in December, or sometime into the second week. I am actively searching out someone in the Miami area that has around 2k RMS on tap at 4 ohm -- should be able to find someone Now, down to business. Does anyone have some requests as to what boxes I should use? Right now I am planning the following... 4 Cubes Sealed 3 Cubes Sealed 2 Cubes Sealed 3.5 Cubes Ported, 20hz, 50in^2 Port Area 3.5 Cubes Ported, 25hz, 50in^2 Port Area 3.5 Cubes Ported, 30hz, 50in^2 Port Area I was sticking with 3.5 Cubes Ported b/c I just can't imagine anything larger for just a 12" driver. Thoughts, requests, etc? If I can get my hands o…

hoping to get a trade for an RL-p 15 for a pair of rli 8"s as I can get them under the seat in the truck? my buddy has the P and I may have a guy intrested in the P. I'm sure ultimatly the 15" can get louder, BUT I can run ported with the 8"s vs the 15" sealed, I'm more of a ported guy also. and the 2+ 8"s I have rocked before I killed them what do yall think? get the 15" and trade it? or keep it? i kinda have enough 15"s the storm X2 neo 15" quads under the house are sitting allready lol. they romp hard too 29mm xmax clean up until their limit, too bad I ran them off a 4000d each lol cones are all cracked, it was clean watts so the coils are fine just need new cones

I have an amplifier that is rated 400 watts RMS @ 2ohms. I also have a 1.8 cu ft vented enclosure tuned to 30 hz. Is this a good match for a 12" RL-p or would I need more power? I saw that this sub is rated between 500-1000wrms. Thanks

Hello all, I bought a soundsplinter RL-p 15" probably 4 years ago? Anyway it was meant to go into a home audio project that never quite materialized and it sat on my work bench instead. During this time it seen cold temps as I live in canada and maybe have seen some things hit it I guess I dunno anyway the surround now has one small crack in it and another spot where there is a crack that is not all the way through the rubber yet. I am going to temp repair it with a silicone type glue from the back side of the surround but am interested in finding a new surround for this subwoofer. If any one can point me in the direction of one that would be much appreciated. I am slight…

Hey guys, newbee here, Ill be receiving my Rl-p in a day or two(I hope), I hear and read alot of mixed opinions on breaking in your subs. Is this necessary? If so what does anyone recommend?

Basically I have seen some people recently making ported boxes and putting the slot port in the middle to act as bracing. When they get to the back of the box they split the port's area in two but still use the same port length. You can see what I mean here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169881 So for example if I needed 48 inches of port area, 30 inches long. I would go 3x16 in area for 15 inches and then make a left and right turn. The port area would shrink to 1.5x16 inches in both directions and go for another 15 inches in each direction. So technically I still maintained the same port area for the same length. But I don't know if such a design actual…

I was wondering between the 2 subs was there any difference in specs? I have 2 sitting here, and of course the only visible difference is the cone. One with the logo, and the other with Mike's sig.