SoundSplinter

lookeyrl-p

curious, cause I might be making the trip

I have posted before but I think I should introduce myself since I think I'll be sticking around. You guys seems to know what's up and it's always good to hear as many peoples opinions as possible. My name is Zach Halverson. I just bought myself a couple rl-p 15's after searching around, passing on RE, done waiting on Adire, and not finding one bad review on these subs. I've got a big project going with my 2001 Jeep Cherokee, upgrading my system big time. The question I currently have is how to best mount these things. Currently I have designed a box with 3 ft^3 each tuned to 28 hz. The slot port is 2.5x14 to give 35 in^2 of port area and have about 35 inches of p…

I decided to build a new box for the 18". Started with this........ Then this...... Then this........ I actually have the front, back, and top on. I just haven't taken any pix of it yet. It's bigger then the last box I had in there for the 15". I got about 7.2 cubes with this one. I'll get more pix up later. It's going to have 2 6" aero ports tuned to 34hz, and a Orion 2500d.

i'm getting my car in a coulpe a months and i'm getting 2 rlp12" and will a Lanzar Max Pro 2400 watts amp be good or should i get a better amp and will the speakers handle a lanzar max pro 4000 watt amp need help

Hi everyone finally ordered my sub... see this thread http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=2502 my amp is a 350Watt Rythmik audio plate amp the sub will be used for both HT and music 50/50. I wld like a ported box tuned low. BTW, 4" ports are quite hard to come by in my country....is there likely to be chuffing if i use an ordinary piece of PVC piping regards

I'm buying some used RL-ps(dual 4 ohm), but in order to do so I must get rid on an amp(s). I will more than likely put them in a box between 1-1.25 cubes net sealed, should be about 1.2. I have 2 SS rubicon 1000-2s(1000 watts rms at 2 ohms each) or a kx1200 (rated at 1400@1 ohm). I have heard many say that 600 watts is more than enough and some that swear by giving it 1kw each. I would like to go with the single amp, but dont know if I would acheive full output with it. Any help from past/present rl-p owners would be greatly appreciated. If you haven't owned/heard an rl-p, please state that if posting. Thx.

when i switch my +ve and -ve wires on the sub amp there is a "non-quantifiable" difference in the way things sound, but its really hard to determine EXACTLY which sounds better or right? is there a way with a dmm or some other physical piece of equipment to determine when the sub is connected in phase or is it just a matter of listening to it? or traceing everything back to the hu?

What tunning would be the best for 80's Metal. I.E. Metalica, G&R, AC/DC and the list goes on. This is for a (1) RL-p 12 Dual 4. From all the info I have been reading lately, it looks like 1-2cuft tunned @ ~28-32hz. What do you guys think? I dont think I can fit 2cuft maybe 1.5. I was thinking 1.5 @ 28HZ Should i scrap the vented Idea and go sealed? I like my Metal, but some times I just like to wang out 2. so I want the best of both worlds. I will have 600WRMS on it. Is this to much, not enough? Please help me sort through this confusion. Thanks

What are the voice coil diameters of the R-lp drivers? Are they based on the TC9? I thought I read somewhere that they were, but the T-s parameters are pretty different. Thanks

Hey, Ok RL-i8 Sealed In My 97 Reg Cab Dakota I was going to go ported but Im going to be adding more amps & doing an active setup I was going to put 360x1 to the RL-i8 ported 1.2^ @35Hz Here's the deal.. Im going to move from one shop to a new shop the new one dose not sell Arc So I will be running Zapco I like'em better anyway.. Zapco Refrence 350.2 on the Sub(350x1@4Ohms) Zapco Refrence 350.2 On The Mids (100x2@4Ohms) Zapco 200.2 On the tweeters (50x2) But now Im looking at 350w sealed.. what do you think will it be good, great or outstanding? Or is it a Bad idea.. Lookin at just under 1^ The pic is from the drivers seat.. Here's the deal.. Im going to move …

I have a 15" RL-p d4 paralell @ 2ohms on a Viper d1200.1. I have a horrible box(24x18.75x13) ported with a 2"diameter 7" deep aeroport) and I have no idea what it's tuned to. Basically, I'm wondering if I should just completely ditch this box, try to port it, seal it up and use it as sealed, or build an entire new box(I don't REALLY want to, but I probably will.) How would this box sound if I ported it? I saw that I can get some 4" flared aeroports for pretty cheap. Your thoughts?

hi everyone, just signed up here after finally desiding on a sub for my new setup after my last one was stolen. i think im going with the rl-p15 d2. anyhow how come with different coil config.(d2 vs.d4) there is slight differences in the bl and fs? i didt think the coil config. would really change any of that. the fs for the d2 is like 23.xx and fs for the d4 is like 27.xx! the difference in the bl bewteen the 2 is only 1 though. is it that the d2 is a slightly heavier coil? also the qts shows that the d2 would slightly favor a sealed box than the d4 would? im just trying to figure out t/s paremeters and how they interact together. thanks - chris

Hi guys. I'm getting ready to install a 12" RL-P in my Denali. I have a directed 1100d, the sub is 2 ohms. I will be running it at 1 ohm, so I guess about 1100w rms give or take. Anyway, what's the ideal box size for a sealed enclosure for 1 12" . Space isn't a huge issue, however I would like to keep the cargo area of the suv useful. Thanks, Austin

so i installed my rl-p i.b. again over the weekend, but this time i sealed the rear of the car completely, expanding foam, mdf, rammat etc.(fold down seats) well the sound is amazing and doesnt deteriorate as volume goes up (like it used to before i sealed her up proper) ..my question is this, i experienced a little boominess with my rl-p in a bigger sealed box (1.8 maybe 1.9 before disp)but there is absolutely no boom with the i.b.arrangement? i wonder if the trunk was the reason for the resonance / boom rather than the sub itself? because a sub in a box in a trunk is actually a sub in a box..in another box? i.b. has to be the only way to go if a car has a trunk?.....tho…

This was a recommendation for the RL-p 12 on another site. I was just curious what everyone thought. For SQ purposes, try this: 1.2CF net (.6CF per driver), tuned at 24Hz, 22.5 ~ 25 square inches of port area. The problem is going to be vent length (causing the enclosure to be quite large), but it should sound extremely good if implemented properly. These drivers are best suited for low-tuned vented apps. They will work sealed, but if you can make this enclosure work, I think you will be pleased with the boost in overall output while maintaining excellent SQ and extension. The driver has an extremely strong motor. It doesn't need a very large enclosure at all, especia…

NOT!

Hi I have 1 RE SE 12 in a ported box(30) with 500 watts .I want to take up a little less room and I found out about the RL-i 8s and 10s and was thinking about switching over. I will be running a PG X600.1 to the subs. How do you think 2 of these 8s or 10s would compare to the 12 I have now. Thanks for your help. MikeJ

Would this be too much power for them if I watched the gains? I am also thinking about upgrading to 3 rl-ps and the 2500d at .67 ohms

Everything I have heard about these subs so far has been positive. I want to give them a go in my new setup, but I might have a problem. Tell me what you think. I have a regular cab 1999 F-150 so I am limited on space. With the area I have to work with I can build a box that has an internal volume of just under .83 ft^3. Im not sure how much of that is taken up by the sub itself. Do I need more airspace or is this enough? I prefer SQ to SPL so I was planning on building a sealed enclosure, but am open to a vented enclosure if the sound would be better overall. I will most likely be using a Mono Block Memphis amp pushing around 500W @ 2ohms if that helps any. Thanks i…

have paypal, would prefer bandpass.

apparently there isnt enough room for a ported enclosure for my 2 rl-p 12's in my 87 trans am. i'm putting them in the well facing straight up, i THINK this will sound the best. thing is i havent built a box in years, and i only helped with a simple sealed box for a trunk, this one will be a lot more complex getting it to fit snug. i've got an elemental designs nine.1 amp, and i think the 12s should be right in their sweet spot with it turned up all the way at 1 ohm, right? they're d4s. i want as much space as possible right, and separate chambers for each 12? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=306257 here is a design for a generic sealed box that was …

im ready to buy some SS drivers to go with my 9.1. right now im leaning towards two 10" RL-i's. what do you guys think about the 9.1 pushing them? or should i just go with 1 RL-p 12? im really into clean, punchy bass im going for SQ in a 4Runner. does anyone own or has anyone heard the RL-i's that can give me their opinion on them? thanx

Ive got about 900-1000w to work with, at either 2-3-4 ohms(amp switches from hi current to hi power). Im trying to decide between 2 10" RL-is, 2 12" rL-i's or 1 12" rL-p. No matter what, the setup will be sealed in a somewhat small enclosure(probably the max size would be around 2 cubes total. All opinions r welcome, Thx Shawn

Well, I've been thinking that my RL-p 15s are underpowered. I have them down at 1 ohm on a Planet Audio 2250d that has been tested to do ~1600 rms. I have heard of people throwing 1000 - 1200 per Rl-p. I most definatley have the room to go mechanically, I just wonder if I dump 2k+ at the pair....will I run into some seriously limiting thermal problems? Box is 5.5 NET....is it just a box issue as to why my excursion isn't a ton? It gets loud...but I think there is even more bottled inside these puckers.