SoundSplinter

Hello All, Well here is my thing. I really don't have any experience making vented boxes. All I have ever made are sealed. But I think I can build one. I need help with the exact box plans for a RL-p 15" tuned to 18 or 19hz. I need box size, number of ports, length of ports, and size of ports. I am an ameture at building vented boxes so I need the plans. If anyone could help with this it would be much apprecieated. Thank you for looking. Saul_M

I was originally going to go sealed 2.1 cuft enclosure for a pair of Soundsplinter RL-p 15"s from my box builder. However, he worked out the specs and told me a 4th order bandpass would work better and worked out a response curve. What do you think? Will this work better for Sound quality purposes? The yellow line is the response for sealed 2.1 cuft and the teal is bandpass response. He didn't give me any enclosure size details except the exterior dimensions... " The dimensions you will want to know about are 31"d, 41"w, 18"h at the front, 4" high at the back, and the horizontal part of the box extends 10.75" from the front, which is the depth needed for the sealed cham…

have paypal, would prefer bandpass.

just wondering, but i always used to fill the box with pillow stuffing because (from what i was told) helps out the sound. is this true? and if it is, i'm getting the rl-p's in a ported box. it's gunna be one chamber with two ports. would the pillow stuffing do any good in a ported box? thanks

Are there any plans for a new rl-i8, or even to start production of the old one? I know i'm not the only person interested in this information as i see lots of people inquire about them on the different forums. -v

Can anyone give me sond help ? Im planning on makeing a box for one Rl-i8 in a chevy colorado crew cab i want to make this box vented but want to get the air space and frequency perfect to get the most output so that i can compete. I am currently running one 12" RE XXX in a 2 cube box tuned at 28 hertz. all comment will help thanks

i woulda thought with all the rl-p fans here that know what their doing (i dont) i coulda got some interest in a box design but no-one has offerd? i have paypal and want a seriously good sq.....L design for 2 x rl-p. or should i got to toxic bass?

I know its not recommmended, but I would like to buy one and run single sub setup sealed. At 4 cubes sealed with gain set conservatively can it take 1500 daily? My amp is 2000 at 1 ohm or 1500 at 2 ohms. I can get a dual 4 and run it at 1500 daily, if it will take it

*sorry for another amp question in a row i just got my RL-p15 in yesterday, biult a 2cu. ft. sealed box and ran it temporarily off an Alpine MRP-M350 amp. i had to drive the amp close to clipping for the lows to come out, but i know i was badly underpowering it. im planning to go ported once mike gets back to me on my ideas. i had these amps in mind: Alpine MRD-M1005/M605 maybe Rockford T10001BD MTX 801D PG Octane R 8.0.1 I really want to spend less than $350 though i know some that i listed are over that. any help would be appreciated. thanks

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.p...highlight=rl-i8 Sorry for the post link. I can't find the pics of my enclosure at the moment.

Ok I'm ready to buy and have a few questions. I want either the RL-p 18 or the Rl-p 15 either one will be going in a sealed enclosure 4ft^3 for 18 or 2.5 for the 15. It's going in a 07 dodge ram quad cab. powered off a phoenix gold tantrum 1200.1 So now for my questions. I have 2 10"kicker L7s in a 2.2 ft^3 box (loudest in my area) will either RL-p kill this set up? What is the shipping cost for each? Area code ( 18629 ) NE PA If I order on Monday june 11th when can I expect to recieve the sub? Thanks Chad I would love to hear your opinions.

So I am looking for a new vehicle but I am still wanting to do the console for the 8s. Need a few opinions. I have about 1.3 cu.ft. with room for 1, 2, or 3 of them. I also have 2 amp that I can use. 275 HCCA 75x2@4 300@4 150x2@2 600@2 300x2@1 1200@1 [email protected] or the 600D 250@4 400@2 600@1 So power isnt a problem. But my question is 1.3 gross with 2 of the 8s one rear fire the other downfire. Ported or sealed? I have the room for both. If I go sealed I will probly make smaller chambers in the console, ported dont really know with a box that big. I guess that I could just make it smaller or make an internal chamber like the sealed would be. Man am I rambling. Giv…

Since the rl-p 18 d4's wont be in stock for a while, i think im just going to get the d2's and run them in a series off of an audioque 2200d giving them around 600 watts a piece. Would this be ok? The jl audio website says running multiple subs in series is not reccomended, is this true?

I've reserved free use of a table saw down at a local shop tomorrow. It'll be a simple common chamber, sealed enclosure for 2 15" rlp. Internal dimensions of 19"H 15"W1 17"W2 30"L. Woofer displacement is .42 and that leaves me .2 for box bracing. Internal space for the woofers is the reccomended 2.1. I'd call it a simple, fail-safe enclosure, right? Any ideas? Subs will be facing forward, although i'd like them to downfire. I suppose it'll be built tomorrow...

i'm thinking of building a ported box for my rl-i 10. 0.32cf tuned @ 27hz. it's one of the boxes mentioned on the site. i plan on using a 4" port. flared at both ends. any possibility of port noise ?

Alright so a while ago I was looking around for a subwoofer to fit my needs but I also wanted something that would be quality that I could put in my next car and be happy with for a long time. Then someone suggested soundsplinter, I took a look and decided that these are for me. So now im trying to find the right setup. I was thinking one 12 inch driver would be about right for me. So now comes the part deciding what to get with it. Im looking to spend no more than 400-500 tops. I was wondering what would be a good amp for this sub? I understand that it can handle a lot of power but I'm not sure I need A LOT. Also what kind of box would be right for this? I want …

Hey guys. The unusual T/S parameters and technology in the RL-S woofers have really peaked my interest in them. I've done a bit of research and I'm really considering them for use in car. The high QTS and high FS (especially of the 12 inch version) makes it look like these woofers would start to roll off right around where a cars transfer function would start to kick in. The tiny vas also makes achieving "true" IB easier than some woofers with vas ratings in the hundreds. Along with IB, I'm considering a sealed alignment because woofer performance wouldn't be affected by whats in my trunk. The problem with this is the box requirements are so huge (as per them T/S pa…

Mike, i was wondering what the plans are for SS. do you plan to keep it internet style, unless im missing something, or do you want to see SS subs instore

What can I say? This sub is amazing. It drools with SQ. When I first installed this sub I had never heard a SQ designed sub/enclosure. I was a little let down by the lack of SPL. Then I realized what SQ subs/enclosures are all about and set my amp up properly and I really started digging the sound. It blends in perfectly and so damn accurately. Over the weekend I spent the day installing the raammat and good lord I'm so happy with the results. The bass hits harder and deeper and more solid. It just feels better. I can't imagine how hard this thing would hit in a ported enclose tuned to say 28Hz. it would be insane. As it is it makes my hair move. What I like is how deep …

does anyone know the efective cone area of this woofer

So I've read that rather lengthly post over at SIN regarding some of the misconceptions regarding moving mass in relation to sound quality. For the most part the article mentioned that inductance is a far better indicator of potential sound quality than moving mass. (My understanding of inductance being the amount of power that is stored in the vc before it actually uses it) therefor lower number of inductance should indicate superior performance. With this said, how does the RL-P stand up (keep in mind this isn't a bashing post, I've had an RL-P since march and I love it) and what is the difference between lossy inductance and (the other one). The RL-P's inductance numbe…

I was loading the parameters into WinISD and noticed that there is no SPL parameter. Is it safe to just use the default one provided by WinISD? (I got 87.59 for a 12" RL-p) Also the paramenters on the site do not distinguish between 2 and 4 ohm subs. I don't think that the RE for both is 3.8. I have heard that these subs are very compairable to the Brahma. Compairing the curve on WinISD, inputing the same box size and freq., there is a big difference in performance, possibly due to the parameters I put in. Anyone got a flash light? Hey Mike, since these are a DIY sub, it might be kinda neat to have the drivers for WinISD, LEAP, BBP and other popular programs downloadable …

I made a 2.1 cu.ft. after displacement sealed enclosure for my rl-p 15 that I heard someone recommend. It does sound really good but I am unsure if i should have used polyfil as well and how much? thanks

I live in TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN, up north near the bridge to the UP, any one in michigan REMOTLY close wana drive to see me, talk, show of the system, and let me here there rk-p's? I hear alot about em but i wana hear them for my self.

Would this be too much power for them if I watched the gains? I am also thinking about upgrading to 3 rl-ps and the 2500d at .67 ohms