SoundSplinter

NOT!

i'm coming up with a lot more airspace than i thought i would out of my ta. basically i can make the box anywhere from 2.5 to 3, possibly 3.2 cubic feet, net. (this is sealed) i like deep, low bass as opposed to tight punchy. amp is an elemental designs nine.1. mike told me the sweet spot would be 1.25 to 1.35 net feet, per sub, but i asked the question thinking that i would barely be able to manage 1.25 per sub. so now that i have more options, what do you all think?

About how much airspace will an RL-p take up if inverted? Is it basically ZERO (less than .05) or is something measurable? Thinking of inverting these babies, box design pends this question.

2.03 cubic feet BEFORE sub displacement, tuned to 34 hz, 30 inches of port area. Is that gonna be sufficient to get me the output i want, as well as still retain a good amount of SQ?

Well, the 15s will be here yesterday and I haven't built a box yet. I've got a 4.8 cube NET @ 31hz box that was for my atlas 15...I was thinking of using it w/ one of the rl-p and running it at 500 rms since that is all I have available at the time. How do the RL-ps react to a too big box? Will it be alright sounding or should I not even go through the trouble of rigging it up?? (Rigging it up consists of switching some amps around b/c I don't have an amp for the subs, I'd have to use my SoundStream which on the highs right now, then take my xtant 1.1i and bridge the fronts into 1 channel) Max fudge around time of 2 hours, but j/w if it'll wang at all.

i took my box out of the car for a while... can i put just 100 watts to the rlp 15 and will that be ok? or will i under power it and distort it and blow it up? its tuned to 28htz by the way in a 3.5 cube box

As most of us know the RL-i 8 is not avaliable anymore. It is being revamped by Mike to be made that much better. So far, all i know about the new RL-i 8 is the surround will be changed to something softer, yes, no more high rol. As well as a different spider. But what about that cone ????? I love the spun black aluminum on all the other woofers. The old RL-i 8 used the not so nice painted aluminum cone. Any chance in getting the new one to have that sweet spun blacK aluminum ?

okay i was messing around with the info yall gave me for tube ports and i came up with this: now is it okay to have the 2 ports on the opposite ends of the enclosure?

Before hand i had a 12 Infinity Perfect running off of a JL Audio 250/1, then upgraded to an RL-P Dual 2 ohm with a Nine.1 as the amp. Box is a subzone prefab 1.03 cu ft sealed box before driver displacement. The sound quality is phenomal, but the output so far is a complete joke. It has no more SPL than my Perfect did, and if i attempt to turn the HU volume or gain up, the sub begins to clip and bottom out. It also moves an incredible amount, and doesn't seem to be putting out output anywhere close to where it should be by the looks of how much it is moving. Are my problems all in my box, or does it sound like i have something else going on? We used a Volt-meter and…

well I had my heart set on the new LMT soundsplinter subs and I wanted to get them as soon as they came out SOO BAD!!! but another offer came up and I wanted to take advantage of it. as many of you have seen on the realm of excursion site the sub that I recieved. sorry mike . mabey in the future I'll get some SS subs because my love for audio wont die. anyways since i made this post i thought what the heck why not take some pics of my LMT sub and the vid heh http://www.realmofexcursion.com/videos/TC%...nds/lmt15.1.wmv but im not takin the soundsplinter.com off my sig i wanna represent a good company

hello all, i figured i'd join this forum since it's the official SS one . my previous setup consisted of a 12" brahma in a 2.5 cu ft box tuned to 28 hz, power by a bridged fosgate power 451s amp. next setup will be this 15, in a 3.2 cubes box tuned to 28, powered by a arc audio 1500-xxk on to the pics! thanks again mike! the sub drawfs the ruler

apparently there isnt enough room for a ported enclosure for my 2 rl-p 12's in my 87 trans am. i'm putting them in the well facing straight up, i THINK this will sound the best. thing is i havent built a box in years, and i only helped with a simple sealed box for a trunk, this one will be a lot more complex getting it to fit snug. i've got an elemental designs nine.1 amp, and i think the 12s should be right in their sweet spot with it turned up all the way at 1 ohm, right? they're d4s. i want as much space as possible right, and separate chambers for each 12? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=306257 here is a design for a generic sealed box that was …

Ok, here is my rl-p that I got a month+ ago from the group buy.. just kinda never took pics and was busy for the last month so thats why it is STILL sitting around a well I masturbate to it, better than porn. the sub and my djembe blurry my ride

Okay, so my friend just got his ava 18 installed and its purdy loud, I've liked what I've listened to so far. Its on about 1000/1200 RMS. My question is, to get louder should I.... Get an MT 15 ported on 3krms or Get two Rl-p 15s ported on 2krms Also, its pretty much a given that either of those would be louder than his 18...wouldn't ya say? Propsed box for the Rl-P 15s is a true CRX style box, two chambers, subs up, ports back, 2 4" aeros per chamber, 3 cubes net each tuned to 34hz I dunno, when I think Dual 15s CRX style in a hatch...I think LOUD. Thoughts/opinion/ramblings. Just respond...I'm tired...intoxicated, and about to pass out. Yet I still post...YOUR TURN

*sorry for another amp question in a row i just got my RL-p15 in yesterday, biult a 2cu. ft. sealed box and ran it temporarily off an Alpine MRP-M350 amp. i had to drive the amp close to clipping for the lows to come out, but i know i was badly underpowering it. im planning to go ported once mike gets back to me on my ideas. i had these amps in mind: Alpine MRD-M1005/M605 maybe Rockford T10001BD MTX 801D PG Octane R 8.0.1 I really want to spend less than $350 though i know some that i listed are over that. any help would be appreciated. thanks

Would a viper 1200.1 wired to 1 ohm be better than a pg tantrum 1200.1 wired to 4 ohms? Which one rates there power at a lower volt? I would probaly get the pg used and the viper new.

i swore to myself yesterday that i would 'leave the system alone' for a month,to fully appreciate and give it a chance. but less than 12 hours go by and im wonderin,if i threw a box on that baffle ???? new speakers in the doors? deadening material/hood/firewall liner?........i will not touch it for a month...i will not,no no no!!!!.........must sleep..... stop thinking bout the sounds......notice wife........perhaps just the door speakers?....

check out my plans: i decided to go round port cuz one, its soo much easier to calculate and make, and 2 its easier to fire it into my cabin (the port will be positioned right underneath my first aid kit space). the reason why the sub cutout is so high, is cuz i wanna make a false floor for the amps, and this way my sub box wont tip over ~2.0 tuned to 31 will be okay rite? i need opinions

just wondering, but i always used to fill the box with pillow stuffing because (from what i was told) helps out the sound. is this true? and if it is, i'm getting the rl-p's in a ported box. it's gunna be one chamber with two ports. would the pillow stuffing do any good in a ported box? thanks

first impressions of the sound are sumptuous! will post more as i get more listening time with it!

DOES THIS LOOK RIGHT FOR AN RLP-12? I HAVE NOTICED SOME discrepancy between the cut list and the calculated dimendsions? and am wondering if rest of the calcs are correct. 60ndownRL_pPortCalculations_1_.bmp

Hey all i was thinkin about doin a bandpass for my RL-p. would be an interesting project, having the bass ported directly into the cabin through my first aid kit hole. Mr. Coleman said it would be the best bet so i wont lose any of the bass in the trunk space (or something like that). What are yall opinions on that?

I first built a 1.7 ft^3 slot ported box tuned to 32hz for my RL-p 12 and it handled my Phoenix Gold Tantrum 1200.1 with no problems at all. This weekend I built a 1.4 ft^3 sealed box which would give me 1.28 ft^3 net after sub displacement. The problem is that my amp easily overpowers the RL-p causing it to emit some less than favorable sounds when I turn it up. I then put it in a 1.13 ft^3 box (net), which helped some but I still cannot crank it. The enclosure specs say I should be using 1.0 ft^3 or less but then I read on here that 1.25 was the ideal amount of air space for this sub. What would be the ideal size box for the RL-p with 1200 watts RMS? Any help w…

this is what i got in a g35, i believe stock alt is 90 amps: xenon 100x2 zed deuce 800x1 rl-p d2 in 1.35 sealed box. finally installed my rl-p d2. and i just love the way it sounds. problem is... when i turn the volume halfway to where i want, my lights starts dimming already. i'm like wtf! my '91 mazda minivan had a better charging system! i may have overshot a little by buying the zed deuce, but i didn't think it would be this bad. i'm so pissed i bought all this chit and can't even use it to its potential. i've read that replacing the big 3 will help...but how much really? i'm thinking of maybe porting...or worse, having to go with another brand that's mor…

Alright, I'm pretty blown away by this. A member on another forum (a very new member) said that he saw a SS sub on Pimp My Ride. Here's the link to the post: Help With A SoundSplinter Sub