SoundSplinter
804 topics in this forum
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I can get 14.4cubes net after sub & port displacement. Ported to 34hz with 113" port area in a wall. Will this be enough air space & port area??? I'll be using the Orion 2500d to push them both (if I get the other one) @ 1ohm.
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alright well i have been contemplating getting an rl-p 12 and porting at something pretty low like 20 hz for home audio use. putting about 540 watts to it. im starting to wonder if this would be overkill, and if i should go with an rl-i with alil less power. i also wanted to know if there was someone who could draw me up some plans, or at least someone i could talk to about plans. thanks yall.
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I'm keeping my 18", and starting on another box for it this weekend. My max dementions are 17" tall-38"wide-25" deep. That gives me just over 7.5cubes to play with. I'm going ported, and I was just trying to figure out what would be best; flaired or slotted?
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I have been reading these forums for a while, so I thought I would post pics of my box I finished this weekend, I was hoping to have the whole install finished by now but work has been keeping me busy . Oh well, I should be done by this weekend. It's my first time working with vinyl, so I think it turned out alright. Pic 1 Pic 2 Pic 3 System will be as follows (if I ever get the time to finish ) Eclipse CD 5435 Focal 165V2 Eclipse 4212 2 12" Rl-p's (sealed 1.2cf each) RE 12.1 Damplifier and Over Kill throughout car
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Just put in my 12" Rl-p it pounds. But what settings should I set my amplifer to? Alpine MRD-M605 600WRMS x 1 @ 2ohms 1.21 cu. ft. internal volume Here are the settings that are available, as per the user manual: Crossover Frequency Adjustment Knob Permits adjustment of the crossover frequency, by rotating the knob to select any frequency between 30 to 200 Hz as the crossover point. 9 Lowpass Filter Slope Selector Switch The Lowpass Filter slope can be set for either 12dB/oct. or 24dB/oct.. it does sound very nice, but i was hoping the bass would be tighter. so im thinking about getting a ported box from circuit city or something just to see how it sounds. any recomendati…
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Does anyone know how to clean the cones on the new RLP-15's without tarnishing the logo? I've just received a couple of new drivers from Mike and after touching the cones, I'm leaving marks on them. I tried wiping with a dry cloth but it seems to make them worse. I'm leaving a dust trail where I wipe. Thanks in advance..... Mike I just heard from Mike @ SoundSplinter and thought some of you may benefit from his reply: On cleaning the cone, I would suggest dampening a cloth with a bit of water and wiping in a spiral motion around the entire cone to clean it. For stubborn stains, you could first dampen the cloth with armor-all and wipe in a circular motion, followed…
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Im considering getting an rl-P 15". My last setup was 2 12" L7's and I wasnt satisfied with their sq. I will be putting it in a ported box in my ext. cab Toyota Tacoma. What size box would you recommend? I have up to 4cu.ft. of room but heard that the rl-p would be well satisfied with 3.5 or less.Also will I be happy with how loud it will get after being used to hearing my last install? From what I've read I will be with the subs sq.Thanx 4 any help.Sry 4 all the q's.
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i was wondering what the limit is, power wise, of these subs. the website says anywhere from 300-1200. i picked up an orion 2500D and planned to power 2 12" rl-p's with it. my box is 3.6 cubes tuned to 32 hz. i'm starting to be concerned as to wether or not these subs will be able to handle this power. i'll make sure to set my gains properly and subsonic filter and all that good stuff.
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since most people i've seen are running this woofer in a ported setup, i was wondering how an rl-i8 would performed in a sealed box with about 450wrms running to it. also how big of a box would this need, if it were to go into a hatchback? thanks axel
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I'm trying to find out what the Mounting depth is to see if they will work downfiring under the rear seat of my silverado.
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now i know these subs are much more pleasing to listen to in terms of SQ compared to most of the other subs out there, but out of curiousity i would like to know if anybody got their dBs checked out. i know eric got some pretty good numbers *thumbs up*. anybody else?
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According to the website: Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.55 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 32 Hz Is this right? This is the first time I see a vented box with a smaller net volume then a sealed box. If I end up with a RLi-10 and go with a ported box tuned to 32 Hz, the net volume would be about 0.8 ft^3. How would having a larger net volume effect the sound of the sub? And one more question to the actual Sound Splinter guys. Can you tell me what the shipping cost of a RLi-10 to zip code 96819 (Honolulu, Hawaii). EDIT: I just notice this on the same page: Acceptable: 0.4 -…
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I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.
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Hi! I will be running either 3 12's or 2 15's supremes,what would be the best amps for those subs?
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i looked at the ss drivers listed in winisd, and found some older models : rl-p 10, and rl-m 12. did they exist ? any of you got your hands on these ?
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where u at mike???? you on vacation or something? we needa talk about stuff!
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Ok well ive pretty much decided on getting a single 12" RL-p i will most likely go for the dual 4ohm coil config, but what im having problems deciding on is what amp to buy and the best size box to build for it and weather to go sealed or to port it. im pretty much open to anything but have roughly a $200 to $250 budget on the amp. Thanks in advance, Matt
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My Planet Audio T2250D came today, and its purdy. Got it installed and wangin :-D. These babies are pretty damn loud. I have to upgrade my wiring for sure. I've got near 200amps of current draw through 15foot of 4 guage wire, that is chit down to 8 guage wire for another foot to the amp. Ground is all 8 guage. Big 3 hasn't been done yet. 130 amp alt. I figure once I get all the electrical done, I can crank it a tad more, get even louder. As it is now, its NICE. The box is not near braced enough. I'm planning a new box. 5.5 Cubes NET @ 32hz w/ 100in^2 port area and threaded rod bracing. IMO, 30 - 35in^2 port area isn't enough when talking about the kind of power …
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wouldnt you just love to have this order right now? youd be a billionare! sorrry, im extremely bored right now, and i cant call anybusinessescuz its a sunday
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Basically I have seen some people recently making ported boxes and putting the slot port in the middle to act as bracing. When they get to the back of the box they split the port's area in two but still use the same port length. You can see what I mean here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169881 So for example if I needed 48 inches of port area, 30 inches long. I would go 3x16 in area for 15 inches and then make a left and right turn. The port area would shrink to 1.5x16 inches in both directions and go for another 15 inches in each direction. So technically I still maintained the same port area for the same length. But I don't know if such a design actual…
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In trying to tweak my new RL-i 10, I noticed that the sub is very peaky from about 40-50 Hz, much louder than at 60-80 Hz. What can I do to remedy this? I have a .6 foot box, with around 350-400 watts going to the sub. The box is packed with polyfill. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
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(2) RL-p 15s sharing 400 RMS (5.5 NET @ 33hz) vs (2) RE RE 12s sharing 400 RMS (3.8 NET @ 35hz) Any guesses, bets, or wagers as to who will come out on top? This test will be performed by ear -- no meter used. So it may be an unnoticable change. New amp won't be here until next week, so I figured I would have some fun and put together a handicap match. Ding Ding Ding!!!! ROUND ONE
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