SoundSplinter

I know that airspace is airspace for the most part, but how far can you go with box shape before it starts to affect sound? I have an area that's too short for 15's so will be using 2 diff heights on box plus shallow wedge in back. Are cubes cubes or will this affect any other factors such as tuning etc.? This is for dual 15's, open box with a single (maybe 2 but haven't decided) slot port of about 75 sq". My main concern is waves getting 'jammed' up in the 4"H, 9"D, 39"W rise in the front of the box. Or maybe that would be a good place for the slot lengthwise? BTW not written on it but width is 39" all the way.

Ok, here is my rl-p that I got a month+ ago from the group buy.. just kinda never took pics and was busy for the last month so thats why it is STILL sitting around a well I masturbate to it, better than porn. the sub and my djembe blurry my ride

now i know these subs are much more pleasing to listen to in terms of SQ compared to most of the other subs out there, but out of curiousity i would like to know if anybody got their dBs checked out. i know eric got some pretty good numbers *thumbs up*. anybody else?

Hi, guys! Since I bought my RL-p15 (dual 2 ohm) earlier this year, I just know there can't be another sub out there to match this truly super woofer when it comes to price/LSQ/fun/pleasure. I had a LSQ setup in my Civic, did 144.4dB legal on the new TL. With small ports and a cheap ass amp I figure that's pretty decent! Now I've sold my Civic HB, and bought a little funny jap - Honda Del Sol (the "little two-seat Vtec-beast"). Thing is, I still want to use my RL-p15! So I sacrificed a little seat travel, and bent my knees for some awesome beats from this little rascal. A fiberglass enclosure behind/between the seats should do it, right? Now we're getting to the main issu…

is it a missprint on the web site, or does the rl-p 12 have a significantly lower fs than the 15?....why?

How does the SQ of the Rl-i 10 compare to the RL-p12. I know the 12 should go lower. But do the subs have the same sound. I like how my RL-p 12 sounds. I have been thinking about running 2 but with the space I have it would have to be sealed and was thinking about the 10s. the amp I have would be great for 2 10s but for 2 12 I would need more power in a sealed box. I dont think 800w to 2 12 would be enough ported yes but sealed I dont think so. If the 10s sound the same as the 12s I think its a good option. Then use the 12 for HT.I am not letting the 12 go I am keeping. Well thanks for your help Mike J

I can get 14.4cubes net after sub & port displacement. Ported to 34hz with 113" port area in a wall. Will this be enough air space & port area??? I'll be using the Orion 2500d to push them both (if I get the other one) @ 1ohm.

i'm so itchin to get an rli-8 but i hear they're down for retooling, any idea when the new and improved is gonna come in?

Okay, so I want to mount my woofer inverted because I have two very small, but very ugly dents in the cone. This means that my box can be 7" high, 24" deep, and 30" wide. 7x24x30 MAX. So, for the most effective box SQ wise, what should I build? I'm running it @2ohms on a viper d1200.1(so about 800 watts). Thanks, guys.

In trying to tweak my new RL-i 10, I noticed that the sub is very peaky from about 40-50 Hz, much louder than at 60-80 Hz. What can I do to remedy this? I have a .6 foot box, with around 350-400 watts going to the sub. The box is packed with polyfill. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Is the Alpine Mrd-M605 to little for the Rl-p15 in a vented enclosure?

how much air does the rl-i 10 displace? i don't mean how much air it can move, but how much volume do the basket and magnet displace...

I'm thinking about replicating the sub enclosure created by Jmelan over at DIY mobile audio for my 2002 4Runner. Does anyone foresee any difficulties or performance issues for the RL-i8 with this type of enclosure in a side-firing alignment? I wonder if a larger driver (Fi Q 10/12, ICON 10/12, RL-i10) wouldn't be in my best interests.

I got my 12" RLP in a 2.0 cu ft ported box, tuned to 29hz and powered by a RF t5002. This setup replaced my 2 12" JLw4 in a 2.5 cu ft sealed box that was powered by an old kicker ZR240 amp. On certain songs, it has the same "tight" bass I got in my sealed box and on other songs it just seems like the bass grew some balls. This setup is louder and has more visceral impact than my old JL setup. I'm really enjoying it. Only thing better is perhaps a 15" RLP in my trunk, but if went that route, I wouldn't have any space left in my trunk. A great product with even better customer service. Edit: James, a local box builder made this enclosure for me.

(2) RL-p 15s sharing 400 RMS (5.5 NET @ 33hz) vs (2) RE RE 12s sharing 400 RMS (3.8 NET @ 35hz) Any guesses, bets, or wagers as to who will come out on top? This test will be performed by ear -- no meter used. So it may be an unnoticable change. New amp won't be here until next week, so I figured I would have some fun and put together a handicap match. Ding Ding Ding!!!! ROUND ONE

Ok well ive pretty much decided on getting a single 12" RL-p i will most likely go for the dual 4ohm coil config, but what im having problems deciding on is what amp to buy and the best size box to build for it and weather to go sealed or to port it. im pretty much open to anything but have roughly a $200 to $250 budget on the amp. Thanks in advance, Matt

My Planet Audio T2250D came today, and its purdy. Got it installed and wangin :-D. These babies are pretty damn loud. I have to upgrade my wiring for sure. I've got near 200amps of current draw through 15foot of 4 guage wire, that is chit down to 8 guage wire for another foot to the amp. Ground is all 8 guage. Big 3 hasn't been done yet. 130 amp alt. I figure once I get all the electrical done, I can crank it a tad more, get even louder. As it is now, its NICE. The box is not near braced enough. I'm planning a new box. 5.5 Cubes NET @ 32hz w/ 100in^2 port area and threaded rod bracing. IMO, 30 - 35in^2 port area isn't enough when talking about the kind of power …

Car is a 1993 Nissan 240sx fastback, like the one pictured ...notice the angle of the hatch itself? I am looking to mount (1) RL-P15. Here is my question: Would it be worth it to try and make a box with an angle that matches that of the hatchback glass, so that it fires directly/evenly into the hatch? Or do you think it would be better to just go facing straight up? I COULD fit the sub facing back except I REALLY don't want it to stick out above my back seat, which it would.....though if facing backward is that much better I am willing to sacrifice. Also, is there much difference between 2 enclosures w/ the identical internal volume, but different dimensions? Thanks in a…

Well, I'm looking to do some audio work on a '99 Integra 4-door which I recently picked up. After hearing many good things about Sound Splinter, I figure I'd give their products a try. I have been a user of RE, eD, SI, IA, RF, JL, etc. Keep in mind that I love to listen to rap with loud and low bass for demo'ing (Lil Jon, Ying Yang Twins, Three 6 Mafia, etc.) as well as Bass Mekanik/Bass 305 and some trance. I actually play my music low most of the time...just crank it up for certain occasions. Power-wise, I'll probably be feeding the subs' around 1200-2000 watts. Oh yeah, anyone with an Integra 4-door, is it possible to stuff two the RL-p 15's ported? Thanks! P.S. - I…

I have had RLP 15 Sealed and Ported, SI Mag 12 ported and 15 sealed. Now I have the DD 9512G. I think I am getting too old to hit 145 with single 12 in the trunk. I am wanting to go to 2 sealed RLP 12's in about 2.5 or 3 Rli 10's in about 2.2. I have 2000 watts to spare and I want great SQ with mean kick drum on Metal, but also the ability to get loud. Is this gonna do it? Am I better off wit 2 12's ported at 1.6 cubes each for just a little bigger box? I just want it crisp and loud if possible.

total internal after displacement

Basically I have seen some people recently making ported boxes and putting the slot port in the middle to act as bracing. When they get to the back of the box they split the port's area in two but still use the same port length. You can see what I mean here: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169881 So for example if I needed 48 inches of port area, 30 inches long. I would go 3x16 in area for 15 inches and then make a left and right turn. The port area would shrink to 1.5x16 inches in both directions and go for another 15 inches in each direction. So technically I still maintained the same port area for the same length. But I don't know if such a design actual…

i was wondering what the limit is, power wise, of these subs. the website says anywhere from 300-1200. i picked up an orion 2500D and planned to power 2 12" rl-p's with it. my box is 3.6 cubes tuned to 32 hz. i'm starting to be concerned as to wether or not these subs will be able to handle this power. i'll make sure to set my gains properly and subsonic filter and all that good stuff.

since most people i've seen are running this woofer in a ported setup, i was wondering how an rl-i8 would performed in a sealed box with about 450wrms running to it. also how big of a box would this need, if it were to go into a hatchback? thanks axel