SoundSplinter

Alright my RL-p 12 is on its way and now I'm trying to sort out the rest of the things I need. Because of money I am going to get either a Pheonix Gold Xenon 600.1 or a Kicker kx600.1 off ebay for an amp. Any suggestings? Also how and what do I need to wire my sub to my amp? I decided to build a box myself, so for 1 rlp with 600-700 watts at 2 ohms a sealed box should be around 1ft^3? What would be some common dimensions? Finally where is a site that could direct me in going about building a box. Thanks

Does anybody have any Rli-8 mounting gaskets? I mean anybody I need (2) of them> Please let me know [email protected]. Thanks

Should be on their way this week. A pair of them in 3cf tuned to 34Hz. Got the box being build right now too. Can't wait.... I will post pics when I get them installed and metered.

I can get 14.4cubes net after sub & port displacement. Ported to 34hz with 113" port area in a wall. Will this be enough air space & port area??? I'll be using the Orion 2500d to push them both (if I get the other one) @ 1ohm.

I bought a 12" Soundsplinter RLP 5 years ago and just recently sold the car that I had it in. I was looking to go back to the drawing board so to speak, and possibly upgrade to an RLP 15 and noticed that it seemed everything was out of stock, and now the website is down. I have looked around at other drivers, but I am having a hard time finding a woofer that is as good as the one I have, that doesn't require 1,000 watts or more to jam, doesn't take a ton of space up, and is reasonably priced. Does Mike from Soundsplinter still cruise this board? I remember he helped me out tremendously when I purchased the woofer.

I am having a hell of a time deciding on a box size and tuning freq for a pair of RL-P 12's pushed with 1500 watts of class a/b power. I want major major impact with rock music. Metallica, AC/DC, Def Leppard, etc. I love Dave Mathews, when his bass drum kicks I want to feel it. I guess the big question is where exactly does the bass drum fall in the freq range? Is it in the high 30 and into the 40's where the green plot would do best? Or is it in the mid 20's to low 30's where the blue plot would be best? Or lastly a compromise of both as the red plot shows. I am so confused on which route to take. I do not listen to rap, so I don't care about that. Mostly rock, jazz and…

today after carpeting my box, i hooked up my multimeter to wire coming from the box. the speakers are wired in what should be a 1 ohm load. exactly the same as the fosgate diagram, except that my + and - from the amp are not both to opposite coils of the same speaker, the + goes to one speaker, and the - goes to the other speaker. what gives? i never did check it before so i dont know if i've been running 1.5 ohms since i hooked it up or not.

wont the w7 only be like 1 db louder than the rlp based on xmax

Just out of sheer curiousity, has anyone ever polished their RL-p's cone to a mirror finish? It seems like a pain in the butt, but would look rather interesting when completed. But I don't know if I'll like the look of a bigass concave mirror sitting in my trunk... I've been toying with the idea for quite some time now, just never had the balls to do it. They don't make the plain logo-less RL-p anymore, and I don't want to fubar mine up.

HellO all . I need a little help just got my Rl-i 12's A few days ago. still dont know what zmp to get. I got the dual 4 ohm . Im kinda loking at the octane-R 8.0:1 but dont kno the full specs of this amp. dose it run 1 ohm stable and if it does what wattage .Is it 800 rms at 2 ohms or is that just peak power? nsorry new to the whole sounds thing . planing on making one box for each sub about one cbf 2 one & a 1/4 cbf. if I could get some help or sugestions on amps for these sub it wuld be great .

i've read incredible things about soundsplinter and considering them in my next setup. its going in a '05 toyota tacoma access cab. my install has space limitations. i have only .88 gross cu. ft, and 600/700 watts available. i am SQ focussed, but want to wang as well. two rl-i 8s seem perfect, but they don't come in the VC configuration i need. i need a final 2 ohm load. since the rl-p does not come in 10, the rl-p 12 is my only other option (that i am aware of). is .88 gross too little for a rl-p 12" even if i add poly ?

i've looked at the new poles that everyone's been submiting, and it seems to be getting more about "vs." and i know everyone hates those poles, but since i'm really looking into these subs, i just really want to know what to expect and no b.s.... I used to have a 12" punch hx2 (the old ones), i've had solo-baric 12's, and kicker comp 12's, and as far as i know, none of these subs compare to the sq from ss, but i'm wondering if theres a box tuned or built to make these subwoofers absolutely PUND! i know they have good sq, but i'm thinking w/ a 3" voice coil, these things should be louder than any of the speakers listed above my favorite subwoofer owned was that punch 12. i…

i'm so itchin to get an rli-8 but i hear they're down for retooling, any idea when the new and improved is gonna come in?

I have a viper 1200.1 itll do 1200wrms at 1ohm is 600 watts too much for the 8? What amp would you reccomend for 2 of these? I know everyone hates the vs. ?'s but What would be louder 4 RE8's or 2 Rl-8's given there right box and watts.

have any of you Ibed it at all?

The vas for a 15" rl-p D4 is 5.225ft^3 yet the reccomended box volume is 2.1 sealed. Should i try to make the sealed volume closer to the actual vas or should this spec be completely ignored? I was thinking more like 2/3 of vas which would be 3.1ft^3. Has anyone questioned this before?

Mike, I want to thank you for the two new replacement drivers you sent me. Here is the update on the rebuilds.... BTW for those who don't know what happened. My wife blew out my last two drivers due to switiching to a Jurassic Park movie with the gains still set at full. She doesn't mess with the settings on the equipment. I am running a QSC 1450 amp to each driver. A 1450 watt amp is too much power for these drivers if not monitored by you! I over amp for low bass at low volumes for my music. I divided the cabinet with heavy partitioning and made two cabinets in one reducing the cubes down to about 2.2 per cabinet, each having their own driver and two passives. Eac…

Anyone have any resources for getting a 34hz ported box? (this was the recommended ported box enclosure as per soundsplinter's website). I was actually going to build my own, I have before. Just have to buy wood, screws, and wood glue. However, I do not know the dimensions/layout in order to make it 34hz. There aren't really on ebay that are this spec either. Most are either 30hz or 38hz. Will this suffice? or will it sound weird? Anyone willing to help me out? thanks

Sunday I am building a Quasi-Eighth Order Series Tuned Bandpass :-D. This should be quite interesting. Its designs up to a nasty looking box!! I am slamming 148.3s right now with the standard ported box. My hopes are to get a solid 150 out of the pair AND gain SQ, which supposedly this baby should do! *still wonders where his RL-s is :-D*

Ok, After doing a few more hours of research tonight, I learned a few things: Couches can act like bass traps & its ok to fire the driver up. In light of the furniture issue, I do like the two front firing drivers with the one being higher than my couch. I like the idea of having a driver that is unobstructed from my listening position. What do you think of going for the same dimensions as the thiel ss4? 19"W x 28"D x 51" H With 2 RL-p15's, and the Adire 1200@4ohm with LT plate amp? http://www.adireaudio.com/Home/ADASubAmps.htm I am willing to adjust the cabinet size to match the drivers, but this is where I am stuck. The soundsplinter site says "2.5 cu ft, with the g…

I havent checked this forum for a while, but i noticed someone got stickers with their 18" rl-ps. When did mike start sending out stickers? I love the logo and would put them on my truck if i had them.

well i've gotten used to the sealed box, wanting a little more output so i think im going to tackle a ported box. i have some generic plans, another person from another forum is building this box for his solobarics. the outer dimensions would be basically the same, but i'm not sure about the port. i think i want it to fire upwards. heres the link to the plans. also, i've never built a ported box, could someone explain to me why its in square inches? thats the surface area of the inside of the port right? i would like to tune the box to around 30 hz, no higher than 32, any suggestions for the port? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=327887 scroll down …

I want to make a new enclosure for my rl-p 15. i want to make it 3.5 cubes net tuned to 33 hurts. is one 6" port tube enough port area? how long should it be? i got 15.5 inches but i dont think thats correct. thanks

what are the full RL-P t/s params? the site only lists like half of em... edit: my bad the font was just small

ok. im building a fiberglass enclosure for my soon to have rl-p 15, right now its setup to be a ported box it appears it will be 3-3.5^ft net internal dimentions, so once the sub and port are in...it shrinks down significantly, now i want one heck of a pounding sub, i'd be overjoyed with ~140 db, ill have a MA audio 1200wrmsx1@1ohm amp going to it, it will all be in the trunk,im hoping to get the 2ohm dvc one but i only see the 4ohm on the site...i sent and email about that, hopefully i can get the 2ohm, so my question is is that gonna be too small for ported or should i plug the hole and seal it up, which with it being fiberglass would be a whole lot easier to do, will i…