SoundSplinter

Here is the link to the finished project and associated construction photos and descriptions of the materials used. Follow the rest of the posts in this thread to see how I blew out the existing passive radiators, then I had to rebuild them again. I am driving this beast with two amplifiers now and have made posts regarding the final outstanding results in this thread. http://photobucket.com/albums/b148/mfishmike/ I'm rebuilding my home theater subwoofer for the 3rd time and am anxious for the delivery of the 2-Premium 15" drivers. I'll be installing them in a 1 1/4" walled cabinet with 4-1500 gram 15" passive radiators. I've been using two 12" Titanic MKIII's, but …

I'm building a SQ box, for my 15 inch RL-p, and the dimensions I'm using are 25x11.5x33. The wood I am using is 1 inch thick. I plan on using a slot port and tuning it to ~29 hz. The only problem is in order for the port to be on the same plain as the subwoofer and be tuned properly with the right area, it says the port will have to be 31 inches wide, by 1.25, with around 38 inches as the length. I've seen lots of other slot ports and most are opened wider than 1.25 inches. I was just wondering, with it being that skinny would it be tuned properly? It still meets the area requirements, ~38.75 square in. its just skinny, and I wanted to make sure turbulance wouldn't effect…

I am new to ported boxes, but have to decided to get 2 RLP 12's and port them. This is for car audio and not home if it matters. I have always read that slot ports are better than circular ports for some reason. Yet it seems that most people are using circular ports with the RLP's. Should I stay away from slot? I would prefer it since it saves the cost, but not if they are inferior. WHat are your thoughts? Would it help if I rounded the edges if I went slot? Also this is going in a trunk so maybe the possible sound being generated is negligible. I was planning on about 48 sqaure inches of port area if I went slotted for 2 12's which is slightly more than 20 per driver set…

Mike do you have the Leap graphs for the RL-p like you have on the website for the RL-i? I looked for them in the forum but I might have missed them.. just wanted to see what it looked like with the QTS of this driver, since the specs lends it much more to ported I am curious of the different response levels of the 3 different ported and 3 different sealed, if you dont have it on hand no biggie, just was curious, and wanted to maybe try different enclosures, and if so maybe push it to a large sealed enclosure to test it out, (just so you know I am hating myself for not being able to test out the RL-s)

I've decided if I can keep from having to make a wall to fit them both I would rather go that route. I should be getting my truck back here shortly. Then I can start on the box for the 2 18"s. They'll be pushed by an Orion 2500D. I had a plan made up to do a 4th order box in a wall, but I would rather not do a wall if I can get away with it. What would be the smallest sealed box I could do per sub?

Been itchin to go ported for a long time now, since I've never heard my RLp 15 ported before. Whats the smallest volume (before port area) would you guys go for a ported setup?

This is my first "high end" sub and I love it. Then I broke it, haha. It's been getting about 400 watts from an Alpine mono for about 3 months and gets played pretty hard. It's in the trunk of my s2000 and I really have it cranked with the top down on the interstate. I guess I'm still a newb but I like to think I know a little more than the average DA that walks in Best Buy or whatever. I've never blown up a sub and I never thought I'd have a problem with a driver of this quality. So, I know it's something I did or didn't do, just want to know what caused this and how to fix it. This is the enclosure I built for it. Just ignore the wire through the hole ghettoness. I ha…

with 300 watts went to a small audio meet in here in town, and many people had their stuff metered. i figured what the hell, so i borrowed a friend's amp (i STILL don't have my main amp yet...but that's for another thread). his amp puts out 300 @ 2 ohms. the termlab was used, and was placed in the passenger side kick panel. i hit 137 dB... guess that doesn't seem TOO bad considering the sub is in a 2.0 sealed, and in the trunk....with only 300 going to it....

Cliffnots for those who dont like to hear me blab: 2 12" RLP dual 2 ohm. Pre-built 3.3cuft box. (single cab silverado) To port, or not to port? If ported, will be 2x 4" ports, how long? Polyfill? SQ is the main concern, but spl should follow. Infinite power available. (almost) I suck at math. WinIsd hates me. My cat's breath smells like cat food ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I just put in my order for a pair of 12" rlp dual 2ohms. I have a couple questions regarding my enclosure... They will be installed in my silverado single cab. I already have an enclosure built, its size comes out to about 3.3 cu ft, which is pretty damn big…

Just out of curiosity, which company that you guys know of that use TC sounds as their 'hidden' partner?? Lots of people mention Eclipse, anyone else??

Ok, here is my rl-p that I got a month+ ago from the group buy.. just kinda never took pics and was busy for the last month so thats why it is STILL sitting around a well I masturbate to it, better than porn. the sub and my djembe blurry my ride

quick question, i am gonna prolly start buildin my 12" rl-ps box tomorrow, but how much distance should the pole vent and a surface be? it was 1.5" right? just confirming...

Hey there guys! Last you guys heard from me I was trying to get some help with my burnt voice coil rli-8. Since then I bought 2 of these rl-i8s from Patented17 in the classifieds section. I spoke to Mike (owner of SS) and and I've commissioned SPY (all credit with the box goes to him!) to custom build an enclosure for my subs. He did his best to get the specs in the confined area that is my vehicles trunk, to match the optimal specs for the rli-8 according to the website The box itself is .3cuft tuned to 33 hz and I know will play down low very well. Here is where you guys come in. I have a clarion DZX785USB (link) that has preout voltage of 6v, and I have a pair of Cla…

my friend bought a sound splinter rl-i 10 the other day from someone. and now he is going to order another one from sound splinter so he can have a pair of those subs. we are going to build a ported box. so how many cu ft is good for a pair of rl-i 10s in a ported box?

I want to use 2 RLi 10s in a 1.5 cubic foot net sealed box with 1800 watts RMS power on them @ 1 ohm. Will the subs handle that kind of power being that are only rated at 500 watts RMS? Also, what size voice coil do these subs have? Thanks, Bill

Who makes Soundsplinter?

effendi's post about soundsplinter's bandwagon (which i like to think i'm partially responsible for) got me to thinking... notice anything different about this one compared to others? like, noone claims the soundsplinter sub is the endall to woofers? the rl-p is a great driver, everybody mentions that, but in certain cases i've seen other subs recommended over it (myself included). be it power issues, money issues or whatever... is this a reflection of the owner? i mean, he'll go so far as to say his driver isn't the one a person wants based upon projected application. he'll also sign his subs, which is totally cool, IMO. i guess what i'm getting at is this, most bandw…

Hi again Mike..... The first thing I want to mention is I don't see any posts in regards to your drivers being used in the home theater market. Most or all of the posts are for autos and SUV's. Are you selling many for home use yet? If so, I guess they aren't posting in the forums. It's been a while since I've visited your forum. My subwoofer is still performing flawlessly! My system has become such a hit that folks with new music and movie DVD's are coming out of the woodwork to come over to view them for the first time on my system. It wouldn't be complete without your subs.... As you might remember, I'm running two of your RLP 15" in a single box which has the r…

curious, cause I might be making the trip

i read this over at car audio forum.com wait a couple months for the new soundsplinter LMT. It sounds like it will fit your criteria perfectly. 38 mm xmax with a ruler flat bl curver and a price tag right under what you're looking to spend. It will walk all over all 3 of your current choices. is this true, if so any other info, is there a proto out

Well I joined the forum here just to learn about SoundSplinter Subs. I have a few questions When did soundsplinter start? Any info on production processes. What

I'm in the process of attempting to prepare an RL-P18 for a recone but I am having some difficulty with the glue holding the surround and spider down. Really what I'm looking for are tips as to how to get it off, or the best solvents to use.

I'm currently selling my system and am looking to get a new one. Ive heard great things about sound splinter subs but i've never heard any in person. I want to build the biggest box to go behind my seats in an '04 Silverado regular cab. Also I have an ED nine.1 to power the subs. What would you all suggest: 8's or 10's? and if not sound splinter what kind?

http://www.soundsplinter.com/images/videos...-RLi10-porn.WMV The above video was taken in low light with a camera I'm unfamiliar with. Hopefully in the future I will master that damn camera and get some clearer pictures up here. The woofer in the picture is running in a sealed enclosure with another RL-i10, off of a bridged Pioneer amplifier feeding each woofer approximately 190 wrms. The volume on the Pioneer head unit during the video is at approximately 50% - I'll get something more impressive up here sometime soon Well now that we've been up and running solid for a few months, I know there's others out there with these bad boys. So.. Where the hell are the pic's?…