SoundSplinter

Ok after much time being spent on a stealthy instal I have narrowed it down to the RL-i 10" and the Diamond Audio M6 10" this is the M6 not the M6 markII or the D6. With the install depth, the air space limitations and the so forth these are the only two speakers I am considering. Application, 3 - 10" subs will be running off a Zapco 9.0X the impedence of the subs is not an issue due to the amazing flexibility of this amplifier. Airspace will be roughly .5 cubic feet per sub net sealed. Fiberglass tub and console have already been made so the airspace is what I have and all I have. Currently I already have one M6 which I bought to tied me over so I wouldnt be without b…

hey all, i was just wondering, how much of an improvement in spl and sq (in your opinion) if any will i get switching my LI in for an RL-P i just ordered?? All with the same amt of power about 550-600w, and same box (but shrinking the internal volume by .75 cubic feet.) and tuning it around 30-32 hz.

First of all let it be known that I'm super happy with my RL-P and I've had it for 3 months now, so I'm not trying to bash SS. But I was watching a few vids on Realmofexcursion and it just doesn't look like SS's move all that much for a sub with a rated xmax of 24mm. In comparison to other subs out there that have less rated excursion it looks like the SS's move even less than these. -is it because the SS vids just are not showing full excursion? -I don't have a video camera -yes the RL-I 10 vid shows the most movement but why not someone with a RL-P 12 thanks, and remember I mean no offense b

just wonderin if a 15 rl-p would be better (than the 12) or too much in a 4 door car with a trunk? (mazda 626) definately gonna git an rl-p asap but a 12 or a 15? LSQ definately my goal with the empasis on sq.same 600 wrms.

I'm going to build a ported box for my RL-p (couldn't resist, since a lot of people say it's better there). Now, what volume should it be (2cuft @ 34hz??)? and how do u calculate port area? I'm a noob in regard to building a ported box . If some of you can provide a plan that will be awesome. Thanks in advance.

I'll have the RL-s in hand towards the end of the first week in December, or sometime into the second week. I am actively searching out someone in the Miami area that has around 2k RMS on tap at 4 ohm -- should be able to find someone Now, down to business. Does anyone have some requests as to what boxes I should use? Right now I am planning the following... 4 Cubes Sealed 3 Cubes Sealed 2 Cubes Sealed 3.5 Cubes Ported, 20hz, 50in^2 Port Area 3.5 Cubes Ported, 25hz, 50in^2 Port Area 3.5 Cubes Ported, 30hz, 50in^2 Port Area I was sticking with 3.5 Cubes Ported b/c I just can't imagine anything larger for just a 12" driver. Thoughts, requests, etc? If I can get my hands o…

I'm itching for more SPL, I already have 1 12" rlp in a ported box. I want MORE! I was thinking of either getting another RLP or 2 Alpine Type Rs (I've heard they're good for their money). The hard thing is my 1 12" is D2 and my amp is only a JBL600.1 arrrrggggggggg!!!!!Sorry I just wanted to vent!

I'm thinking of doing two 15" RL-p because of the low box requirement. My question is, how much does the basket/magnet assembly displace, per woofer?? Also, is 1800 RMS enough for a pair of these? Or should I step it up to 2500 or so? Also #2, is 3 4" Aeroports enough port area for this install? I'm thinking I will have major port noise unless I step up to 4 4" Aeroports. Is 3 okay?? Thankyou!! Alex

I just finish installing my RL-p today and i found the subs doesn't hit that hard and solid, it goes low but, i feed it with 1000rms. Does the inverted installation has anything to do with this?? I used to put the sub in a normal way but in a larger box, it hit harder and more solid but a lot peaky. The current box has around 1.3cuft net (with the magnet outside)

hey, i am going to build one more box for my 12 rl-p. I currently have it in a box that i believe is around 1.6 in low 30's, but it seems like it has a little port noise. I tried around 2 cubes at 30hz, and it seemed to lose some output, but i only had 1 4" port. Anyway, i am trying to figure out what to do now, but my main question is: How wide does my port need to be? Is a 2" slot port that is 14" tall good enough? it is way more than the required 20 sq in of port area. Also, if i do tube port, is one 4" areo enough? It is only like 14 sq in so i figure it probably isn't. What would one recommend for a tube port? 3 3"? 1 6" would be awesome but insanely large…

I have a pair of rli-10's on the way to me. (Thanks Mike) They will be going into two separate boxes with these dimensions. Mounting Depth - 6" width - 20" height - 14" bottom depth - 8" top depth - 5" .66 cubic ft. interior air space per box They are going into a regular cap truck, one behind driver seat, and one behind passenger seat. My HU is a Pioneer deh-780. I also have a US amp xt2000d on the way. I listen to rock, country, and rap. I'm still learning about this car audio stuff. Should I put any poly-fill in the boxes before installing the drivers. Do they need anything special as far as break-in? What should I do with the amp as far as set-up? (gain, fre…

so im done with my daily driver and lovin it, but i have this rl-p 12 on a shelf now, so im thinking about a fun box just for going cruiseing occasionally away from my home area and haveing some fun.my car is a toyota previa (soccer mom type ride) with all the space you could ever want, unlimited, up to 32 cubic feet easy. and an orion 2500d @2 ohms (dual 4 ohm rl-p) gives 1400 wrms. what box would you build, not a daily driver just a fun box to get stupid with bass occasionally

I can't decide between 2 RL-P 12's and 2 eD 13Ov2's. i realize that this board will be biased towards the RL-P But I am hoping to get some insight on what you guys think. I am looking for Output with SQ. I plan on running a ported box at around 32-35hz in the trunk of an Altima. I also plan on firing the subs and port forward trhough the rear seat pass through and sealing of the box from the restof the trunk. I will be running about 600 watts to each sub. Thanks, AS

quick question, i am gonna prolly start buildin my 12" rl-ps box tomorrow, but how much distance should the pole vent and a surface be? it was 1.5" right? just confirming...

Hey I was just wondering the amount of power that can be put through a 12 RL-P as compare with a 15 RL-P? I want to distinguish if I should get 2 12s or 1 15. I am looking for a system that has great spl but at the same time has good sq! Thanks for the help. Mike

I got a job at an audio shop :-D. When I get the RL-s in my hands, OH BOY. I basically can do whatever I want with it here. Power is easy to get, and I can slap out boxes like no one's business. Sweet!! Oh the job, I'm starting at minimum wage and after I get the hang of it I'll be on commision. 6.15 an hour, 3% of my sales, 50% of my installation fees. Even cooler I make my own install fees. Say run some new RCAs for a guy. I charge 25 bucks, I make 12.50 :-D. Cool ass shist.

getting ready to build the temporary home for my rlps for my yukon and im right around 5.5 cubes after sub displacment and couple braces will they be ok all 4 in a shared chamber running all off the same amp zx2500.1

Ok I ordered two RL-P 12's from the group buy and they will hopefully be showing up pretty soon now so I wanna get ready for them. My box will be approx 2.7 cubic foot shared fiberglass box for both subs (so about 1.35 or so each sub), should I stuff will polyfill and how much? Also will a Lanzar Opti2000D run at .5 ohm work well in this application? It is bit of power, but I figure it will work well running sealed. Here is the amp: http://lanzar.com/citempage.asp?MODEL=RBOPTI2000D I am getting excited now that my system is finally coming together, lol B)

Mike, i was wondering what the plans are for SS. do you plan to keep it internet style, unless im missing something, or do you want to see SS subs instore

i went to go purchase a set of Rl-i 10s and i didn't see an option anywhere to buy with a credit card. CAN ANYONE HELP ME?

08-21-2005 12:23 PM <b>The sound report</B> First, let me start off by saying that words can't even start to give these subwoofers justice. I'll do what I can. From the moment I started demo'ing tracks after installation, it was plainly apparent that these drivers reproduce sub bass frequencies with an almost effortless and airy authority. Their accuracy and strength is underscored when playing tracks with multiple layers of complex low-frequency sounds. A movie clip is an excellent example, with music playing, and lots of different sounds all happening at once. Another good test track is Cee-Lo, Sugar. Very few subwoofers that I've heard can execute some diff…

which box (in your opinion) would be better suited for my 2 RL-p's? a 5ft sealed or 5ft net ported @ 36Hz? listening to my setup for a while (ported@36) i noticed that it peaks alot more than my boxes tuned @ 30 and i'm kinda missing my LOW notes. if i tune the ported box lower, it will drop the net lower than 5, with recommended at 2.5/per i dont want to go lower than that. so what do you think?

Hello everyone. New to the forum tonight. I spent most of today searching the net for a new 12" sub, since I have been out of the car stereo world for about 5 years. Wow, times have changed. Amps are huge and speakers are taking more watts than I can remember. I have an Audi A6 Avant (wagon), and I want to find the best 12" sub that I can run with my Cadence A5+HC 600x1 2 ohm amp. I listen to more rock than anything, but I also like trance and rap and country and etc... So, is it safe to assume the RL-p is one of the best choices available? How soon will the new sub be out? Any idea how much it will be? What is the best price for the RL-p? Finally, let me know i…

Is it clipping? Took the sub out, and it still made that sound on lower volumes. It's not bottoming out for sure, but what the hell can cause it? I'm using the same box and amp that I had in my old car, and it worked like a charm then.