SoundSplinter

Finally found a RL-i8 for sale but it is a D4. I have been gifted a Audison VRX 1.500 from my cousin. The amp puts out 500 watts into 4 ohms and 1000 watts into 2 ohms. The sub will be used in a sealed enlosure built with SQ as the most important quality. SPL is NOT a concern of mine. Ideally a single 4 ohm driver with 500 watts would be ideal but I haven't been able to find one. So is 1000 watts too much for a RL-i8 D4?

I was wondering if I ran one RL-p D4 15 on my new Hifonics 1605D amp.Would I be over powering this sub?Plus is this a good setup? The amp runs 1100 watts at 2 ohms,1600 watts at 1 ohm.The system im putting it in is a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am GT Coupe.Any thoughts will be appreciated.Thanks

CAn any one help me I have a RL-I8 and i want it for straight SPL. What would be the best box size and port for this sub to reach its max output with about 300-600 watts rms. all comments needed

I'm itching for more SPL, I already have 1 12" rlp in a ported box. I want MORE! I was thinking of either getting another RLP or 2 Alpine Type Rs (I've heard they're good for their money). The hard thing is my 1 12" is D2 and my amp is only a JBL600.1 arrrrggggggggg!!!!!Sorry I just wanted to vent!

Hey guy's. Im a newbie here. I am looking at the soundsplinter sub's. My question is which should I get? One rl-s12 or two rl-p12's. I have a 96 chevy tahoe 2 door. I dont use the back for anything, so space is not a problem. Or should I get another kind of sub? I like the soundsplinter's because I have never heard anything negative about them, plus they are cheaper than the other sub's I was looking at. (Re audio 12mt's) I have a kicker sx1250.1 amp. The birth sheet say's 1450x1@1ohm rms. Also ported or sealed? Any help would be great. Thank's alot.

If any has a set of used 10s for sale, let me know. My nephew would love to put a pair in his truck, but is a little low on funds to pay for brand new ones.

Hey, Ok RL-i8 Sealed In My 97 Reg Cab Dakota I was going to go ported but Im going to be adding more amps & doing an active setup I was going to put 360x1 to the RL-i8 ported 1.2^ @35Hz Here's the deal.. Im going to move from one shop to a new shop the new one dose not sell Arc So I will be running Zapco I like'em better anyway.. Zapco Refrence 350.2 on the Sub(350x1@4Ohms) Zapco Refrence 350.2 On The Mids (100x2@4Ohms) Zapco 200.2 On the tweeters (50x2) But now Im looking at 350w sealed.. what do you think will it be good, great or outstanding? Or is it a Bad idea.. Lookin at just under 1^ The pic is from the drivers seat.. Here's the deal.. Im going to move …

every company gives a recommended port area, or people like to use about around 12-15 square inches of port per cubic foot. ive got a rl-p 15 and am drafting a new box to fit under my hatch cover for better security reasons. my current box is 4 cubes after disp. at 30hz w/ 55.5 square inches of port.(in love) the one im drafting is will be 3.5 after disp. at 32.5 w/ 67.5 square inches of port. i dont know when i plan on building the new one, maybe when i have the cash flow and a job lol so how do you know you

so im done with my daily driver and lovin it, but i have this rl-p 12 on a shelf now, so im thinking about a fun box just for going cruiseing occasionally away from my home area and haveing some fun.my car is a toyota previa (soccer mom type ride) with all the space you could ever want, unlimited, up to 32 cubic feet easy. and an orion 2500d @2 ohms (dual 4 ohm rl-p) gives 1400 wrms. what box would you build, not a daily driver just a fun box to get stupid with bass occasionally

Very much a rookie question, but I was wondering what kind of wiring accessories and such I will be needing in order to wire a RL-P15 and Cadence txa1000d to my Pioneer p5800mp? I think I already have a grasp on the tools and materials neded to build the box, but I am wondering more about wiring,harnesses, connections, terminal cups and the like. All I really know is I'll be needing a couple terminal cups, and some wire. But I really have no clue as to what. Please help me! Thanks.

The thread title asks the question. How accurate are they? Are there manufacturing allowances/tolerances? I have heard that most published T/S specs can be off by as much as +/- 20%, is this so for Soundsplinter? I want to know mainly because I want to make a maximally flat (.707 Q) sealed enclosure for my RL-p15 d2 and no matter how I run the numbers, I end up with ~1.75 cubes (I am excited about being able to use such a small box). I know the website says 3 cubes, but is this a low Q design by intention?

I got a new amp, and I think it's about to put a hurtin on my Rl-P12 D4.....It's a Clarion DPX11551 so at 2-ohm, it will be putting 1550RMS to the sub. It will be sealed in 1.25^ft. If the gain is all the way down, will I be OK? Previously ran with 500wrms, and it was a monster. Also, whats the highest I should cross the sub? Im running Dayton RS180-4 7" in the doors. Can I cross the sub at 100hz or am I asking for trouble? Thanks.

Recently purchased a used RLP 15, and have my eye on another one online. I have a friend whos going to build me a nice ported box for the subs, but until I can get the rest of the money for that, I wanted to try it sealed based on the reviews I have heard. I have a sealed box I had a pair of Kicker Comp VRs in but heres my question. The box is only 1.95 cubic feet per chamber, ( suppose to be 2.0 but is off just a lil bit) I know the displacement of the RLP 15 is 0.18 cubic feet, would I be choking the sub in that box? I thought about inverting it, to save on some space inside the box. This would only be a temp install until I can get my ported box completed. Also, im g…

if you can figure a way to get one of these monster 8s 'sealed' between the drivers seat and the pedals, let me know.....i cant do it! i tried hard but i was defeated by the dark side.

You guys ever gonna come out with a 10" RL-P? If you did, i would be interested.

hi everyone, just signed up here after finally desiding on a sub for my new setup after my last one was stolen. i think im going with the rl-p15 d2. anyhow how come with different coil config.(d2 vs.d4) there is slight differences in the bl and fs? i didt think the coil config. would really change any of that. the fs for the d2 is like 23.xx and fs for the d4 is like 27.xx! the difference in the bl bewteen the 2 is only 1 though. is it that the d2 is a slightly heavier coil? also the qts shows that the d2 would slightly favor a sealed box than the d4 would? im just trying to figure out t/s paremeters and how they interact together. thanks - chris

Ok I have to ask here I have a SE12 and Dont care if it is louder then a RL-p12. What I want to know is what one will smack you in the head the hardest with 600 watts. I am not going to worry about saving room in my car. I have an SE12 right now and if the RL-p has more kick to it I will change over. I just change my amp on my SE and it did give it some more life. I had a memphis 500d on it and just put a PG X600.1. I did not think there would be a big differance but but there is.They say the X600.1 put out 800 watts not 600 and and I think it is just a better amp. Well thanks for your help and sorry to bug everyone. Just have to say Mike is a good guy. we have email…

I was just wondering how low a pair of 12" rli's will go? In the right box how good is thier low extension? Are they able to play clean in the 20hz range? If do get a pair I'd be feeding each one around 400watts.

I am getting a blown RL-P 12 from a friend and plan on reconing it. I could send it in, but reconing is something that i have really wanted to try myself and i think that this is a good opportunity. I know that i can't but the parts directly from soundsplinter, but i would imagine there are a few options for parts. My question is, if i plan on running the single driver to my MTX 81000d, should i go for a D2 or D4 setup? At 4 ohms my amp is rated at 500rms @ 12.5 volts. At 2 ohms, it's 1000rms @ 12.5, and from what i have heard they were fairly underrated. so for the hell of it assuming i can give the woofer either 600 watts or 1200 watts ballpark, which should i go for? i…

DOES THIS LOOK RIGHT FOR AN RLP-12? I HAVE NOTICED SOME discrepancy between the cut list and the calculated dimendsions? and am wondering if rest of the calcs are correct. 60ndownRL_pPortCalculations_1_.bmp

picshere is a vid of my rlp on putfile!!

I'm thinking of doing two 15" RL-p because of the low box requirement. My question is, how much does the basket/magnet assembly displace, per woofer?? Also, is 1800 RMS enough for a pair of these? Or should I step it up to 2500 or so? Also #2, is 3 4" Aeroports enough port area for this install? I'm thinking I will have major port noise unless I step up to 4 4" Aeroports. Is 3 okay?? Thankyou!! Alex

box will be rougly 7 cubes @ 28hz, and will house 2 - 15'' RL-p's. should i run 2 - 6''s aero's, or 1 - 8'' aero?

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but have been looking into the RL-P's for a long time now. I'm about to buy two 15" RL-P's in a couple of weeks, and I have been looking into boxes lately. Like I said I'm going to be buying two 15's very shortly and I plan on dropping them in a ported box. If I give each sub 3.5cu ft after displacement what should the box be tuned too? Power will be an eD Nine.1 going to each sub. I'll use 3/4" or 1" MDF with bracing and the works... I figured I'd go with an open (non divided) box. The box will be going into the back of a '00 4dr GMC Jimmy... Might go in the '95 4dr Blazer.. not sure yet but I'll be able to fit 7cu ft total in the back n…

According to the website: Optimal Car: 0.65 cu ft net volume sealed 0.55 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 32 Hz Is this right? This is the first time I see a vented box with a smaller net volume then a sealed box. If I end up with a RLi-10 and go with a ported box tuned to 32 Hz, the net volume would be about 0.8 ft^3. How would having a larger net volume effect the sound of the sub? And one more question to the actual Sound Splinter guys. Can you tell me what the shipping cost of a RLi-10 to zip code 96819 (Honolulu, Hawaii). EDIT: I just notice this on the same page: Acceptable: 0.4 -…