SoundSplinter

i just got my hands on a RL-i10 subwoofer. the RMS on the sub is 200 watts - 500 watts per coil @ 4 ohm (DVC). the amp im using is a kicker 1000.1 with a RMS rating of 1000 watts @ 2ohm. kicker amps normally peak about 2.5 times the RMS rating. so i figured this would be a good matching sub amp combo. the box im running it a sealed box @.65 CF. the bass knobs is set @50% and the gain is set @ 25% and the crossover is set @ 200hz on the amp and H.U. but if i turn it up too 25 or over it destorts really box unless i turn the gain down to 25%. i thought with the amp i have i would be able to run it a 50% gain which i figured would be about 1200-1400 watts or 600-700 per coil…

I have a pair of RL-i8's in very good condition. They are in a sealed enclosure I built (see the build logs) and have been wonderful subs. I'm not posting them for sale yet because I haven't made up my mind. I'm curious to see if there are fans of the RL-i8's out there that would give these a good home.

I want to make a new enclosure for my rl-p 15. i want to make it 3.5 cubes net tuned to 33 hurts. is one 6" port tube enough port area? how long should it be? i got 15.5 inches but i dont think thats correct. thanks

I was over on another forum and someone suggested the rl-i10. Gotta say thats a beefy looking 10". If I were to order 1 what size sealed box would be ideal for the best possible LOUD SOUND QUALITY? I would be giving it a good 500RMS of a Memphis 500D. On a side note how would this sub compare to a basic mainstream 12" sub? Matt

I got a pair of these bad boys and since I'm limited on the small lip usage of the subs, I'm wondering what everyone else used to secure them to the enclosure. I thought about using cap screws and spiked bolts but may not work due to the shortness of the lip. I'm in the middle of revamping mine.

Are there any plans for a new rl-i8, or even to start production of the old one? I know i'm not the only person interested in this information as i see lots of people inquire about them on the different forums. -v

just came across a mint old school "signiture" 12". I didn't need it, but I've always wanted and the price was good. Now I have no plans to use it anytime soon. So I wanted to see if I can find an SS box for the RL-p 12" from someone. I need/want all the packing in it as well please. Let me know or if mike you read this and you can let me know what it would cost to ship me one. Thx, Vic.

I set out to look for two and look like i may wind up with 3 after i am done. anyone looking for one let me know.

Since the rl-p 18 d4's wont be in stock for a while, i think im just going to get the d2's and run them in a series off of an audioque 2200d giving them around 600 watts a piece. Would this be ok? The jl audio website says running multiple subs in series is not reccomended, is this true?

140.9 On the termlab. Here's a little bit of background. I got the 8s in and they look awesome. I threw them in a box that is 1.4 cf net, .95 cf after port, 35 hz, and 15 square inches of port. I decided that they won't fit in my car so a friend of mine took them off of my hands. I built the box for his mustang, but it fit in my hatch and he let me borrow them for a week. I got it metered tonight and it did that in the kick with the door cracked. It did a 138.5 sealed up on the dash. We only played with it for like 10 minutes and didnt even move the box around. This box isn't a burp box either. It sounds awesome and plays really low. These 8s have a usable low end exte…

I finally took the plunge and ordered a pair of RL-i10's to replace my single 12" Polk SR124. I'm designing the box for a false floor with the 2 10's inline next to each other. How much space should i leave under the woofer. The mounting depth says 5.55". Would 6" from the face of the box to the back(inside) be sufficient? What is the minium you would recommend? I will be throwing a max of 400 watts at each sub in a sealed enclosure of .65 cubic feet net. Is a 3/4 thick enclosure really necessary with this small of an enclosure? Or can I get away with 5/8 or 1/2"?

Everone (sundown, mach5, etc) now adays is making a super woofer, and I was just wondering if you had any plans in the works? I've always loved your subs, and I would defenatly be on that list, LOL. :bigclap:

I am getting a blown RL-P 12 from a friend and plan on reconing it. I could send it in, but reconing is something that i have really wanted to try myself and i think that this is a good opportunity. I know that i can't but the parts directly from soundsplinter, but i would imagine there are a few options for parts. My question is, if i plan on running the single driver to my MTX 81000d, should i go for a D2 or D4 setup? At 4 ohms my amp is rated at 500rms @ 12.5 volts. At 2 ohms, it's 1000rms @ 12.5, and from what i have heard they were fairly underrated. so for the hell of it assuming i can give the woofer either 600 watts or 1200 watts ballpark, which should i go for? i…

Thinking of going with 4 SS 10"s with my Sundown3000. I'm thinking of using 4 4" aero's with them. This is going to be my daily tuned to about 34Hz.

Hello, First off I really like this product line it basically is an improvement on my favorite subs off all time the Audiomobile EVO-R 15. Anyways I was just wondering if you are still sourcing product from tc sounds some how of if you have your own tooling etc. Just wondering hope this isn't against any rules or anything

I continue to go back and forth with which box size and tuning frequency to go with for my new box I am building. I was hoping to get some opinions from any and all of you that have had experiences with the Rl-p 12 D4. Right now I am torn between going with a bigger box size of around 2.5 cubes and tuning it @ 28 or 29........ or going with a box a bit smaller, in the 2.0 - 2.25 ramge tuned @ 30 or 32 Hz. Anybody have any suggestions or opinions for me......PLEASE!!!! This will be going in a Tahoe and my listening habits are mainly rap with a little bitt of rock and alternative mixed it...... but I would say at least 90% rap. Not sure if that matters, but I figured I…

I am aiming for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.8 and an F3 around 40 Hz. For the Rl-p 15" I got the following results, using a web based box calculating program: 1. Qtc = 0.7071 Vb = 3.5 F3 = 43.48 2. Qtc = 0.8008 Vb = 2,38 F3 = 44.14 I was just wandering if you seasoned guys know of a way to reduce the F3 a bit further without changing the Qtc too much? For a SQ application, do you reckon that Qtc 0.8 will sound better than the standard flat Qtc 0.707? Or maybe, the F3s above will be low enough in a VW Passat Variant? How low do you want it to go, at the lowest in a car, sealed F3 wise?

just curious about this woofer, looks quite sexy. what are its various attributes? SQ or SPL? low distortion? thanks for your time! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...f837bfe2233f7ee

Hey Mike and crew, I'm a long time owner of an RL-i8 S4 looking to upgrade and need to think through my options. Here's what I've been running the last 3 years: 2005 Tacoma double cab (very limited space behind back seats) one RL-i8 S4 in a sealed 0.3ft^3 3/4mdf box two soundstream reference 700s amps (one for mids/highs, one for the sub) amps and sub behind back seat, thus the reason for only one sub First let me say I've been very happy with the rl-i8 purchase, and Mike took the time to reply to my questions which is why I'm coming back. It's been an awesome little sub and has held up well over 3 years of real world conditions. But ultimately I've always desired a bit m…

Hey guys I've been snooping around this forum for the past week and found out that the RL-p 12" D4 is not in stock. Kinda upset but then again D2 is in stock which is shocking to me because I've read that 2ohm config. would be a cheaper one to run in overall result of watts per dollars spent. Please don't judge me by my lack of knowledge but that's just what came to my head. Please tell me different because I wanted to get D4 for a long time and they seem to be more popular over D2. Thanks in advance Dan K

sorry for double post could you please delete this one thank you

alright so.. i've been saving up money for almost half a year now and i really wanna get a good set for my car but the thing is, i have no idea what parts i should buy that best suites my car i drive a 2004 acura tsx i've been hearing from my friends that i should go w/ sound spinters so, i am but the thing is.. what do i all need? i have no experience w/ subs or anything of that matter so far.. i'm considering getting two 10"s? good or bad choice? but i heard the 8"s were badass. and that's as far as i've thought of no idea of what amp, or if my car can even use the subs w/out changing my deck anybody know any info that can help me out?

I'm in the process of attempting to prepare an RL-P18 for a recone but I am having some difficulty with the glue holding the surround and spider down. Really what I'm looking for are tips as to how to get it off, or the best solvents to use.

I would guess that if anyone from this forum actually bought an RLS we would see a post about it. And did anyone in the ring even try the normal recs for the enclosure. I remember people just throwing it in ported boxes they already had. If this is the case then most of us really don't know what it would sound like. 600 burning in my hand

I just bought a 12" RL-s and need to begin to think about the box. I'm stuck between going sealed or ported. I think I want to do ported but if sealed is best for this driver, then so be it. If I do go ported, I'm thinking right now trying 3cuft tuned to 28hz and if I go sealed, I'm thinking around 2.5 cuft or so (going by SS recommendations). Is 28hz too low or should I go higher? Another question I can throw in here is for power. Single 3 ohm kinda sucks but can be dealt with. Right now I'm thinking about buying a JBL BPX1100.1 (http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10482_JBL+BPX1100.1.html) or an older Orion 2500D which I think does somewhere around 1200rms at 3ohms. An…