SoundSplinter

a buddy of mine just ordered 2 rl-s 12's a few days ago after i showed them to him.... he asked me what he should have the builder tune the box to....i really have no clue where these subs perform best at. he was thinking 6 cubes at 32 because the recommended airspace per sub was 3cu/ft on the website....however the tuning was significantly lower at 24.... what would you guys recommend him having the box tuned to? he just wants to sound as clean and clear on most rap music as well as music with lots of lows...not really looking for being loud as hell... so what do you guys think? any info appreciated thanks

just came across a mint old school "signiture" 12". I didn't need it, but I've always wanted and the price was good. Now I have no plans to use it anytime soon. So I wanted to see if I can find an SS box for the RL-p 12" from someone. I need/want all the packing in it as well please. Let me know or if mike you read this and you can let me know what it would cost to ship me one. Thx, Vic.

I got a pair of these bad boys and since I'm limited on the small lip usage of the subs, I'm wondering what everyone else used to secure them to the enclosure. I thought about using cap screws and spiked bolts but may not work due to the shortness of the lip. I'm in the middle of revamping mine.

Are there any plans for a new rl-i8, or even to start production of the old one? I know i'm not the only person interested in this information as i see lots of people inquire about them on the different forums. -v

Since the rl-p 18 d4's wont be in stock for a while, i think im just going to get the d2's and run them in a series off of an audioque 2200d giving them around 600 watts a piece. Would this be ok? The jl audio website says running multiple subs in series is not reccomended, is this true?

I set out to look for two and look like i may wind up with 3 after i am done. anyone looking for one let me know.

I have a pair of RL-i8's in very good condition. They are in a sealed enclosure I built (see the build logs) and have been wonderful subs. I'm not posting them for sale yet because I haven't made up my mind. I'm curious to see if there are fans of the RL-i8's out there that would give these a good home.

Thinking of going with 4 SS 10"s with my Sundown3000. I'm thinking of using 4 4" aero's with them. This is going to be my daily tuned to about 34Hz.

Everone (sundown, mach5, etc) now adays is making a super woofer, and I was just wondering if you had any plans in the works? I've always loved your subs, and I would defenatly be on that list, LOL. :bigclap:

I finally took the plunge and ordered a pair of RL-i10's to replace my single 12" Polk SR124. I'm designing the box for a false floor with the 2 10's inline next to each other. How much space should i leave under the woofer. The mounting depth says 5.55". Would 6" from the face of the box to the back(inside) be sufficient? What is the minium you would recommend? I will be throwing a max of 400 watts at each sub in a sealed enclosure of .65 cubic feet net. Is a 3/4 thick enclosure really necessary with this small of an enclosure? Or can I get away with 5/8 or 1/2"?

Hello, First off I really like this product line it basically is an improvement on my favorite subs off all time the Audiomobile EVO-R 15. Anyways I was just wondering if you are still sourcing product from tc sounds some how of if you have your own tooling etc. Just wondering hope this isn't against any rules or anything

I continue to go back and forth with which box size and tuning frequency to go with for my new box I am building. I was hoping to get some opinions from any and all of you that have had experiences with the Rl-p 12 D4. Right now I am torn between going with a bigger box size of around 2.5 cubes and tuning it @ 28 or 29........ or going with a box a bit smaller, in the 2.0 - 2.25 ramge tuned @ 30 or 32 Hz. Anybody have any suggestions or opinions for me......PLEASE!!!! This will be going in a Tahoe and my listening habits are mainly rap with a little bitt of rock and alternative mixed it...... but I would say at least 90% rap. Not sure if that matters, but I figured I…

just curious about this woofer, looks quite sexy. what are its various attributes? SQ or SPL? low distortion? thanks for your time! http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/zencart...f837bfe2233f7ee

Hey Mike and crew, I'm a long time owner of an RL-i8 S4 looking to upgrade and need to think through my options. Here's what I've been running the last 3 years: 2005 Tacoma double cab (very limited space behind back seats) one RL-i8 S4 in a sealed 0.3ft^3 3/4mdf box two soundstream reference 700s amps (one for mids/highs, one for the sub) amps and sub behind back seat, thus the reason for only one sub First let me say I've been very happy with the rl-i8 purchase, and Mike took the time to reply to my questions which is why I'm coming back. It's been an awesome little sub and has held up well over 3 years of real world conditions. But ultimately I've always desired a bit m…

I am getting a blown RL-P 12 from a friend and plan on reconing it. I could send it in, but reconing is something that i have really wanted to try myself and i think that this is a good opportunity. I know that i can't but the parts directly from soundsplinter, but i would imagine there are a few options for parts. My question is, if i plan on running the single driver to my MTX 81000d, should i go for a D2 or D4 setup? At 4 ohms my amp is rated at 500rms @ 12.5 volts. At 2 ohms, it's 1000rms @ 12.5, and from what i have heard they were fairly underrated. so for the hell of it assuming i can give the woofer either 600 watts or 1200 watts ballpark, which should i go for? i…

I am aiming for a Qtc between 0.707 and 0.8 and an F3 around 40 Hz. For the Rl-p 15" I got the following results, using a web based box calculating program: 1. Qtc = 0.7071 Vb = 3.5 F3 = 43.48 2. Qtc = 0.8008 Vb = 2,38 F3 = 44.14 I was just wandering if you seasoned guys know of a way to reduce the F3 a bit further without changing the Qtc too much? For a SQ application, do you reckon that Qtc 0.8 will sound better than the standard flat Qtc 0.707? Or maybe, the F3s above will be low enough in a VW Passat Variant? How low do you want it to go, at the lowest in a car, sealed F3 wise?

Hey guys I've been snooping around this forum for the past week and found out that the RL-p 12" D4 is not in stock. Kinda upset but then again D2 is in stock which is shocking to me because I've read that 2ohm config. would be a cheaper one to run in overall result of watts per dollars spent. Please don't judge me by my lack of knowledge but that's just what came to my head. Please tell me different because I wanted to get D4 for a long time and they seem to be more popular over D2. Thanks in advance Dan K

sorry for double post could you please delete this one thank you

I'm in the process of attempting to prepare an RL-P18 for a recone but I am having some difficulty with the glue holding the surround and spider down. Really what I'm looking for are tips as to how to get it off, or the best solvents to use.

Im building a box like this. http://img62.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2c...z325sqin7bo.png Except im just gonna put a one of those plastic ports cause it seems easier to build, anyone got the measurements for a box like that in 2cu @ 29 hz, and pictures maybe ? And should i use a double front frame ? What amplifier is good for the rlp 12" D2, dont want to pay to much for a amp. Thanks.

I got these two box designs off Ca.com, im just wondering if they will be fine. Will be powered off a nine.1 1200w@1ohm with the gains turned down a little bit. Running a 15 rlp http://img30.imageshack.us/my.php?image=35...z465sqin0cb.png This one is 3.5 cubes tuned to 30hz http://img30.imageshack.us/my.php?image=32...z435sqin9pz.png This one is 3.2 cubes tuned to 28hz. Im leaning more towards the 3.2 cubes as I want to have SOME space left in my trunk. Would these two box designs be sufficient or should I go with tomsething else.

alright so.. i've been saving up money for almost half a year now and i really wanna get a good set for my car but the thing is, i have no idea what parts i should buy that best suites my car i drive a 2004 acura tsx i've been hearing from my friends that i should go w/ sound spinters so, i am but the thing is.. what do i all need? i have no experience w/ subs or anything of that matter so far.. i'm considering getting two 10"s? good or bad choice? but i heard the 8"s were badass. and that's as far as i've thought of no idea of what amp, or if my car can even use the subs w/out changing my deck anybody know any info that can help me out?

When ordering this sub you can choose between D4 and D2 whats the difference ? And im looking at some enclosures, how do you know how much Fb there is in your box, what criterias sets the Fb ?

What are the opinions of forum members who have used them? Enclosure size? Ported or sealed enclosure? What is optimum amperage for each subwoofer? >>>> Anyone have one to sell to me? <<<<

hey Just curious how business has been recently. I'm still rockin my double 15" rl-p subs though i think its time to put them in a ported enclosure. They've been running hard in a sealed box for over a year. Wasn't too sure if they'd last this long but i'm still happy with them after all this time. Before SS, i used an adire audio brahma that i loved, but some of you may know, adire went tits up a ways back. Just curious how things at SS have been going, and if my subs ever need to be reconed or something, i can have it done. There are so many people makin subs now days its hard to pick one and beleive your choice was a sound one. I picked adire audio from recomm…