SoundSplinter

hey, i am going to build one more box for my 12 rl-p. I currently have it in a box that i believe is around 1.6 in low 30's, but it seems like it has a little port noise. I tried around 2 cubes at 30hz, and it seemed to lose some output, but i only had 1 4" port. Anyway, i am trying to figure out what to do now, but my main question is: How wide does my port need to be? Is a 2" slot port that is 14" tall good enough? it is way more than the required 20 sq in of port area. Also, if i do tube port, is one 4" areo enough? It is only like 14 sq in so i figure it probably isn't. What would one recommend for a tube port? 3 3"? 1 6" would be awesome but insanely large…

Third time's a charm. 1.15^3 net downfired sealed box with 1 pound of polyfill in the center console of my Dodge Ram. First slot vented box was too big and looked awful in there. Second box was sealed (not downfired though) but it had too much air space for the amp I am using. This one is perfect!!!! Dave Matthews Band Live at Central Park plays so deep and so clean I could just sit in there and listen for hours. I've used quite a few other subs in my truck (Brahma, Alpine Type R, RE SX, 12W6, etc) but the RL-p will stay in there. B)

Mike this is for you mostly but if other SS owners want to chime in, here are the links that I think should be addressed: http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=11;t=080010 http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimateb...c;f=11;t=080012

Ok i ordered a 15" rlp that should be here friday. Im going to have a vented box built to 3.5cf @ 28hz. What i want to know is about is vent area. Ive heard people talk about it but im not sure how it effects output and SQ. I do not trust any of the shops around here so i want to know as much about what im getting built before i go in and talk to any of them. So should i worry about vent area, or just tell them i want a 3.5cf @ 28hz box built. Thanks.

i have heard many good things about the rl-i's and rl-p's. they both have awesome sq for eg. my question is out of the two series, which one has better sq? also is there any word on and rlp 10" coming any time soon? right now i have my eyes set on the rl-i 10" but i want to keep my options open.

Ok, After doing a few more hours of research tonight, I learned a few things: Couches can act like bass traps & its ok to fire the driver up. In light of the furniture issue, I do like the two front firing drivers with the one being higher than my couch. I like the idea of having a driver that is unobstructed from my listening position. What do you think of going for the same dimensions as the thiel ss4? 19"W x 28"D x 51" H With 2 RL-p15's, and the Adire 1200@4ohm with LT plate amp? http://www.adireaudio.com/Home/ADASubAmps.htm I am willing to adjust the cabinet size to match the drivers, but this is where I am stuck. The soundsplinter site says "2.5 cu ft, with the g…

I ported the box, and headed out to a local show today. First run was a 137.2. After that I tweaked the amp, and moved the box around for the second run. We came in second place with a 139.6. Keep in mind, this is with 2 Sound Splinters 8" & a Directed 1500D. Here's a pic (Amy Cano). I took this cause I couldn't stay for the cirts to be handed out.

I discovered by accident that Fast Reducer (painting supply) will remove the Logo from the subs very easy. I was using it to clean one since I got some overspray on it. The logo just wiped right off! Thats good for me, since one of mine has a logo and the other don't. Now they both don't LOL

I just met Mike yesterday and he is a real cool guy. He's got a great head on his shoulders and seems like a very well rounded individual. I would never had been able to guess his age based on how he carries himself. And although he is much younger than I expected in his case his youth is not a bad thing at all, just makes me jealous. I wish I had been as focused and with as much direction as he has when I was his age. Definately one of the sharper knives in the drawer. I wish you much continued success bro. It was an absolute pleasure to meet you. Your upstanding character is easily seen. We only talked for a short time, but I was very impressed. I come from a world fill…

Hi again guys. Well I got my HU and 4-channel amp all installed so that leaves me with the sub and sub amp now. Originally I was going to go for a 10" Rl-i, but I would REALLY like to fit a 12" Rl-p into my single cab (1999 F-150). I took a few measurements and it looks like it will work. Tight, but it should work. It can either be forward facing, or down firing Questions... 1) How much space is reccommended to be left around the edge of the sub when mounting it? 2) How much space does the magnet need from the back of the box? 3) Is there a big sound difference between a forward facing sub and a down-firing one? 4) How much space should I leave in front of the …

Just out of sheer curiousity, has anyone ever polished their RL-p's cone to a mirror finish? It seems like a pain in the butt, but would look rather interesting when completed. But I don't know if I'll like the look of a bigass concave mirror sitting in my trunk... I've been toying with the idea for quite some time now, just never had the balls to do it. They don't make the plain logo-less RL-p anymore, and I don't want to fubar mine up.

box will be rougly 7 cubes @ 28hz, and will house 2 - 15'' RL-p's. should i run 2 - 6''s aero's, or 1 - 8'' aero?

i have one Rl-i12 sub and i'm designing a vented box for it in program called 'Bassbox'. i know vented enclosure is not recommended for this sub but it won't be run with more than 300-400watts anyway. oh and this box won't be used in a car but at home. so now i'm not sure about the size, volume of the box. the same is with diameter and length of the vent. well i want to know what would u recommend for each one of this exemples individually: 1. what would u recommend for BEST PERFORMANCE of the driver? 2. ....for low tuning. ap. 22hz oh please tell me also what do u recommend for car box (i will probably build one later on...). that's it... size, volume etc... thanks, Pek…

I know that this new RL-p setup has got to be loud. I know it will be. In the back of my mind I can't quit thinking, oh my gosh what if it isn't?? I keep thinking that a small box woofer doesn't lend itself to getting too loud. I'm coming from a 15" Ascendant Audio Atlas in 4.8NET @ 31hz. What I am wanting out of this setup is the following.... Twice as loud as the Atlas. More authority in the 60-80hz region, where the atlas lacked. By the numbers, it should be at least twice as loud, but I keep thining...its audio, chit doesn't always happen how formulas say, I may be dissapointed. I've got twice the cone area, 6mm more linear excursion, and the output advantage of not…

Hey is there anyone in Michigan (west Michigan) or anywhere in the Midwest, looking for sound splinter subs. I am only looking for one so I wouldn't mind adding another for someone to get the discount and shipping. I am looking for two doesn't matter to me which one I get first, either an rl-i8 or rl-p12. Thank Andy

today after carpeting my box, i hooked up my multimeter to wire coming from the box. the speakers are wired in what should be a 1 ohm load. exactly the same as the fosgate diagram, except that my + and - from the amp are not both to opposite coils of the same speaker, the + goes to one speaker, and the - goes to the other speaker. what gives? i never did check it before so i dont know if i've been running 1.5 ohms since i hooked it up or not.

going to get a new car soon, and i was thinking of going IB with the RL-p. having the extra trunk space would be nice but i'm not sure if the RLp will perform nicely in an IB configuration. right now i have the bad boy in a 2.0 net sealed box, pushed with 1k watts from an arc amp. so how well will the RLp work IB? thanks in advance for any feedback!

i'm thinking of building a ported box for my rl-i 10. 0.32cf tuned @ 27hz. it's one of the boxes mentioned on the site. i plan on using a 4" port. flared at both ends. any possibility of port noise ?

How do these two subs rated against each other SQ wise?? Similar sounding? Does size matter for achieving better SQ?? or it's just a gimmick?? Sorry for asking heaps of question

i got 2 15's on the way but i cant find the cutout dimentions anywhere. does anyone have it? and the outside measurement?thanks

picshere is a vid of my rlp on putfile!!

Hey guys, newbee here, Ill be receiving my Rl-p in a day or two(I hope), I hear and read alot of mixed opinions on breaking in your subs. Is this necessary? If so what does anyone recommend?

well i've gotten used to the sealed box, wanting a little more output so i think im going to tackle a ported box. i have some generic plans, another person from another forum is building this box for his solobarics. the outer dimensions would be basically the same, but i'm not sure about the port. i think i want it to fire upwards. heres the link to the plans. also, i've never built a ported box, could someone explain to me why its in square inches? thats the surface area of the inside of the port right? i would like to tune the box to around 30 hz, no higher than 32, any suggestions for the port? http://thirdgen.org/techbb2/showthread.php...threadid=327887 scroll down …

"2ohm single linear voice coil (TC Sounds patented proprietary technology, first time it will hit the open market)" Does this mean the rl-s will only be able to run at 2ohm or how about will we go about wiring it up? reason im asking this is i might start looking for an amp and wanna know what it should be stable at...also for 2 subs to be wired up...thanks

Just got my 15's & building the enclosure. It's going to be a single ported box with both 15's mounted in it. Question I have is should the drivers be completely cutoff from one another via internal divider, partially divided or wide open inside? The enclosure will be either 3/4 or 1" mdf, close to 7 cubic ft if divided, and 1 slot port on each side if divided. If open would I need to cut down on size & could I use 1 slot port? I've never run duals so kind of lost on this. Appreciate any info.