SoundSplinter

I have two Rl-i 10" drivers, and i was wondering if anyone here has ever put one in a ported enclosure.

just asking out of curiousity. im still debating what freq. i should port mine to, granted i listen to pretty much everything. 1) driver size 2) net ft^3 box @ __Hz 3) type of music you listen to 4) extra comments about the set up

what are the full RL-P t/s params? the site only lists like half of em... edit: my bad the font was just small

not really a big deal but i was wondering if there are magnet boots left for the rl-i8s i got my three before mike had them...

well i'm starting to get into home audio and i'm doing a very basic and small setup. looking at an rl-i to run in my HT setup. probably just gonna build a standard sealed or ported box. what size and what tuning prequency should i use for each box? i will most likely be giving the sub 110 watts. by the this is a 10" sub.

i've looked at the new poles that everyone's been submiting, and it seems to be getting more about "vs." and i know everyone hates those poles, but since i'm really looking into these subs, i just really want to know what to expect and no b.s.... I used to have a 12" punch hx2 (the old ones), i've had solo-baric 12's, and kicker comp 12's, and as far as i know, none of these subs compare to the sq from ss, but i'm wondering if theres a box tuned or built to make these subwoofers absolutely PUND! i know they have good sq, but i'm thinking w/ a 3" voice coil, these things should be louder than any of the speakers listed above my favorite subwoofer owned was that punch 12. i…

of couse i get a new car, and OF COURSE i have yet another car that troubles me with the sytem. 05 mustang.....i need 2.5-3.5 cubes according to the specs here that Mike has. if ANYONE has seen ANYONE with something NEAR 3 cubes in an 05 mustang please give me some info on them so i can track em down and shoot the chit and get me a box plan! ported of course

I was wondering how much would it cost for two 12 inch RL-Ps to ship 39773?

I'm about to make a new box for my RL-p, due to space restriction and the sexiness of the magnet , i have to mount my sub inverted. Now what would be the ideal cuthole size?? I notice that the rubber surround is fat and leave only slight gap in regard to the screw hole. Also about the polarity, i heard that u need to reverse the wiring, how u do that?? I'm wiring the sub in parralel. Now, would 1.27cuft and 1.38cuft yield different output?? The sub will receive 1000rms clean power and gear for SQ applcation, i like it to get low too. Thanks in advace

well my car is now satisfying all the time, from a standing start i can set volume to a nice sexy pleasing level-on anything! and start journey, sound is fantastic all the way up to about 60mph where road noise etc dictates a slight tweak of the volume, but other than that i can set volume and have no loss of sq between 0 and 60! my home audio is equally as pleasing? so what do i do now? ? ?

trade me an rlp 15 4 ohm for my 15 h2 i'll pay the shipping

i'm trying to get a QTC of .707 out of my Rl-is in my new box. So far these are my calculations. .267 = QTS 44.74L = 1.57cf = Vas Vb = 1.57/((.707/.267)^2-1) Vb = 1.57/(6.011) VB = .26 So is this the net volume i should be shooting for for 1 rl-i? I want to port it i haven't grasped the complete understanding of QTC but realize .707 is ideal and depending on which way i go i will gain some low end lose wattage handling, or gain handling of power and get some peakiness. But i don't understand if a port and the tuning will affect the QTC or if i could go for a higher QTC and a lower tuning to gain the same type of output. THanks for your time ~Mike

Hey Mike, you should look into submitting the driver info for people to look up if they want http://www.thielesmall.com/database.asp

I live in TRAVERSE CITY, MICHIGAN, up north near the bridge to the UP, any one in michigan REMOTLY close wana drive to see me, talk, show of the system, and let me here there rk-p's? I hear alot about em but i wana hear them for my self.

Im trying to make plans i can take to a shop and have built. Never done this before. Im trying to get 3.5CF net @ 28hz (rec from mike). The program im using is bassbox pro 6. How does this look? Does it have enough vent area? Do i need to add braces or anything?

DOES THIS LOOK RIGHT FOR AN RLP-12? I HAVE NOTICED SOME discrepancy between the cut list and the calculated dimendsions? and am wondering if rest of the calcs are correct. 60ndownRL_pPortCalculations_1_.bmp

As i stated i need help building a truck box for a regular cab pickem up truck, its a fullsize c1500 chevy, I bought the rli 10 inch driver only 1 of them , and i need help on how big my box should i was told , as long as i can get, and about 1 foot high , and 7 inchs mounting depth, i was wonder if that was right, let me know on what u think, im trying to get the best sound outa this driver , Thank you for your info

i want my ported box to be 2 cubic feet i want it tuned to 34hz so far i have 30Wx14Hx?D I cant figure out with a box calculator what my depth is, if i put it at 13.5 i get 21 square area for the port but if i put it at 14 i get 19 square area. so my question is what should my depth be for a box that is 30 w x 14 h so i have 21 square area port sounds confusing sorry.

Anyone have any resources for getting a 34hz ported box? (this was the recommended ported box enclosure as per soundsplinter's website). I was actually going to build my own, I have before. Just have to buy wood, screws, and wood glue. However, I do not know the dimensions/layout in order to make it 34hz. There aren't really on ebay that are this spec either. Most are either 30hz or 38hz. Will this suffice? or will it sound weird? Anyone willing to help me out? thanks

I am wanting to upgrade from my 2 13kv2's sealed and am torn between the 13Ov2 and the RL-p's. I have a 9.1 available to push 600 watts per sub and am trying to decide if the price difference between the 13Ov2 and the RL-p's are worth it. I an get a pair of 13Ov2's for $350 shipped and the RL-p's for about $500 shipped. Man I can't decide AS

I was wondering if I ran one RL-p D4 15 on my new Hifonics 1605D amp.Would I be over powering this sub?Plus is this a good setup? The amp runs 1100 watts at 2 ohms,1600 watts at 1 ohm.The system im putting it in is a 1998 Pontiac Grand Am GT Coupe.Any thoughts will be appreciated.Thanks

I'm currently coming from a setup consisting of 2 JL 12w3s in a ~7 ft^3 ported box getting about 400W each. I am going to use the same amp (providing about 900w RMS @ 2ohms). I am also going more for an SQ setup this time -- I want osmething that hits nice and hard, and I'm not too concerned about someting that'll make my ears hurt (okay, I don't want that anymore). So, here's the question: which would YOU prefer -- 2 10" i's or 1 12" P? I still haven't decided on ported vs. sealed yet, as I don't know how much less-loud a ported enclosure is, since I only have experience with my old, big ported box. If I do the 12" Rl-p, I'll probably go sealed, but may do either se…

hehe and i found that if you send 2kw witha 4 ohm series resistance into an rlp in a .6 cubic ft sealed box, it wont overexhurt (sp?) meaning its possible to send 2kw into this driver? or will it reach its thermal limits by then? i found this very interesting its the yellow line... the gray line is for my next box

wow i finally hooked up my rlps the other day and they sound awesome. i bought them a few months ago but it got cold and i got lazy.. the stratus's trunk is so dang small so until summer they are in about 4 cubes net sealed facing up but its still loud enough to shake the mess out of my car. i'll try to get pictures and maybe a video in a couple days. thanks for the niiiice product jeff

I am getting a Rl-P 15" for my car and the only problem I am running into is making a box shape that will be able to slide into my trunk. A box shape I found that will work is a right triangle with internal dimensions of 16x31 with a hypotenuse of 34.9". The question I have is will the driver be too deep and make contact with the hypotenuse at any points? Also I would like to know if a right triangle shaped enclosure will get worse sound than a sealed cube enclosure?